Hey, all. I'm trying to find a cable pattern for a bunny cable, similar to the owl cable, but you know...with a bunny instead. I want to put two on either end of a scarf for a friend of mine who loves...you guessed it...bunnies. But I can't find a pattern anywhere! I found the washcloth pattern here, but that doesn't have the cable pattern, and I lack the patience or expertise to figure out what part of that pattern is just the cable. I also found this old thread, on the owl cable, but it looks like the thread died before the bunny cable pattern was posted.
Can anyone who is wiser in these issues help me out? A bunny scarf is on the line!
Yep! I read a post on a LiveJournal post about the Spiderweb and totally realized that because I had learned how to YO from SnB, I had learned incorrectly, and was throwing an extra knit stitch in there every time I saw a YO. D'oh! Now I understand why my drop-stitch scarf came out all wonky.
Now I'm cooking along with it, except for my inability to make nice, loose stitches.
OK, I'm confused, and I'm on the SECOND ROW. Oy. The pattern line was cited by Jettgrrl. Here's what happens for me: I have 2 P, a YO (2 stitches), P, rep. So when I P the first three stitches, I P the first two stitches, P the first half of the YO, and let it drop. P the standing P. Let the first half of the YO drop. P the second half. Then I get to a standing P, and I'm supposed to let it drop? Is that right? It seems...wrong.
I hope that makes some kind of sense to someone! Please help, I've been trying to get this stupid thing to work for days!
A big "me too!" on how good this looks, but also a big "me too!" on not understanding step four. Also a big "me too!" on requesting a picture of the finished back of the blazer, because that's the part I'm having trouble picturing.
Find a machine with a super-stretch stich. Overlock machine would be ideal. Then just get used to the stich with a bunch of scrap material, preferrably the same fabric you're gonna be sewing with. It takes some getting used to, but your goal is to guide WITHOUT PULLING the fabric at all.
I, myself, have the opposite problem. My actual boobage is pretty big, but my under-bust and hips aren't. So to find a top that fits my boobs, I am generally stuck with a super-long underbust strap. Usually just resort to the halter-type that ties. And then the bottoms...if I can find a top that I can deal with, the bottoms are usually WAY too big for me.
If I were president, I would decree that bathing suit tops are sized like bras (Vickie's Secret does, I think) and that bottoms are sized according to panty sizes. .
I've made two pairs of these, one where I cut down the center of the shirt, like you did, thus ruining the design. Then I discovered that if I cut up the sides, and stiched what used-to-be-the arm holes together (NOT the sides yet), and then folded in so the arm holes were on top of each other, I could save the image on the front of the shirt. In other words, sew the arm holes shut, pinch the dead center point of the front and the center of the back, and pull them apart, so that the arm holes become the rise, and sew up the inside seam of the leg, and whatever was on the front will wrap around your leg. Does that make sense?
The only problem with this method is that it's harder to make the pants wider or narrower, as you don't have the outer seam to play with. Draw strings are my friend.