Modifications: Not being a fan of mohair, and because I'm working from my stash, I used Red Heart Symphony (only 1 skein!)
The stitch gauge was correct, but my row gauge was tighter, so I made several more dc rows in the yoke, then a few more of lace rows, also to make it longer than the pattern. Instead of attaching the ties directly to the collar, I just crocheted a long chain and weaved it through the dc stitches at the base. Though I added another row on the collar, it still seems skimpy, so I will add a few more.
Though I completed this in April, I'm still pondering over pom-poms or beads on the ties. That's why I didn't post it sooner, and why I'm covering those unfinished ends.
Since the yarn was so light, I worried about the drape, so with the help of Lily Chin's Knit and Crochet with Beads, I ventured into my first experience with bead crochet.
Ooh, I'm stoked about this dye-along! For those of you unfamiliar, or having problems with the dye, I've quoted here some of my past posts of my Wilton dyeing experience from the Kool-Aid thread ....
The Wilton dyes only contain a handful of different food colorants, most notably Red 3, Red 40, Blue 2, Yellow 5, and Yellow 6. The different ratios at which they're mixed produces the vast array of icing colors.
To dye wool, you need an acidic solution. If you don't use enough acid, it won't dye. If you use too much, the dye dissipates out of solution and just stains everything, only to wash out later.
That said, each colorant needs a different pH level to dye successfully. This poses a problem when you have a color like Black that's a mixture of more than one food colorant.
Ideally, Red 3 seems to work best in a pH of around 6, whereas the other colors need a lower pH (more acidic). You can try my method, without using pH testers, though I can't guarantee you'll get the same results:
Begin with a dye solution in plain water, and let your yarn cook just under boiling in that for 10-15 minutes, then every 15 minutes or so, add a tablespoon of vinegar. Stop adding vinegar when all the dye is absorbed and the water turns clear. With this method, you're slowly making the solution more acidic, and in doing so, you're covering the ideal acidity levels of all the different food colors.
You'll still, however, get that mottled hand-dyed look with some colors, but it's less pronounced when using this slow acid method.
HTH, Meilynne in AR
After many frustrations with hot pink pots, spoons, wash water, and eventually fading pink yarn, I finally figured out how to dye with that tricky red #3 - a beautiful bright watermelon pink that also makes the violet lovely as well.
It's all because red #3 dyes at a lower acidity than the rest of the colors, so here's how I did it....
I added a washed & soaked skein of Paton's Classic Merino to a 4 qt. pot filled with 3 qts. of cool water w/ 1 tsp of Wilton's violet (red #3 & blue #1) dissolved in it. Hint: Wilton dissolves faster in a little hot water, then add to the dyepot.
I started with 2 tbsp of vinegar, and heated to almost boiling, then turned it down to the lowest temp, just below simmer. I let that sit for about 30 minutes, then the water turned blue as the red absorbed, but the blue didn't. Then every 20 minutes or so, I added 2 more tbsp of vinegar, until I was up to 10 tbsp, when the water finally turned clear as the blue completely absorbed.
I let the whole thing cool overnight in the pot - I hear that makes the dye set better. I washed and rinsed the whole thing the next morning, and though the yarn was slightly varigated with different hues of purple, not a speck of pink residue was left behind.
Here, I overdyed Patons Classic Merino in Gray Heather. I love the muted, darker colors. I didn't use KA, instead I mixed McCormick food colors, in blue, green, and yellow, with random squirts all over a hank and microwaved it. I'm sure you could acheive similar results with Berry Blue, Lime, and Pineapple KA.