I love making these miniature dogs!!  I used Lion Brand Jiffy for this one.  




I don't use a pattern. I crochet some simple shapes, brush using a wire brush and sewn together.  I used two shades of gray.  He's about 6 inches from nose to tail.

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I have drafted instructions.  They are not complete instructions, but they give you an idea of how to construct the puppy: Fluffy Friend #2.   Thanks for your interest and your wonderful comments.

[Thanks wibit! I have much respect for your skills, your imagination and your willingness to share!]

Every since I saw this post by wibit (http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=194965.0) making a cute little fluffy dog has been on my mind.  I recently knit a sweater where I used Bernat Alpaca.  Since I had a little left over I decided now was the time to make my little dog!

He's not perfect, but I think he's really cute!	I think he looks like a Yorkie/Pomeranian mix
	He's standing on a 4 inch tile, and he about 5 inches tall.

This is just the first of what I hope are many more.  I'm off to experiment with other yarns now!

Thanks wibit!  I have much respect for your skills, your imagination and your willingness to share!

Thanks for sharing your grandmother's pattern with us.  Such a simple yet beautiful design.  I have a lot of rice paper and think that it is just too beautiful to hide its design.  When I saw this butterfly I knew immediately that I wanted to use the paper for this project.  I took your template and brought it into my graphics program and duplicated the design I liked best.  I then made it into different sizes for my different papers.

The one sitting on top of the quarter is 2 inches, then 3 inches then 5 1/2 inches.  I cut all of them from the same piece of paper (which they are sitting on top of).  I've attached the link to the patterns if anyone is interested (PDF file):  Folded Butterfly Template

I saw the TapestryCrochet.com site and decided I had to give it a try.  I also wanted to do something original, so I designed a star.  I am very happy with the results, (although I was working with whatever yarn I had on hand and the colors aren't the best combination).  I may do a little more to finish off the blanket- it's a gift for my pregnant neice (for her baby).  It measures about 27 inches square.


Shot of the blanket
  
star from pattern                                                     star (freeformed)

The whole thing is done in single crochet (size K hook) and I created this grid and arranged the little tile-like shapes to create the pattern.  I use a graphics program called Canvas, which allows me to create layers.  I put the grid in one layer and the little tiles in another.  When I'm done I print and stitch!

(If you save the image you will have the full size grid).

Thanks for looking...

Not sure what type of fish this is, I just thought it turned out quite cute.  My husband says it looks like a big mouth bass.




I was attempting scales on the body.  It looks a lot better in person.

Hope you like.

I picked up the Fall 2007 Vogue Knitting and saw a pair of convertible mittens on page 36 and immediately thought- "I have to make a pair of those in crochet!".  I like the speed of crochet and sure enough I was able to make a pair in a couple of days.  I don't have a pattern because I didn't write anything down.  They are done in single crochet using Red Heart Sport in two colors.

The "action shot", (I could only shoot one hand while holding the camera in the other).
I'm going to make another pair and correct some of the mistakes I made in this pair- this time I plan on writing the instructions down.
Hope you like....

I made another pair (using worsted weight this time).


The instructions follow: (DISCLAIMER- I don't normally write down the instructions for what I make, I just crochet as I go.  I hope you can follow this with a minimum of confusion).

CONVERTIBLE MITTENS
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Materials:
Size H crochet hook
Size F Crochet hook
Red Heart Super Saver 7 oz. Worsted weight acrylic
scrap yarn to use as stitch markers

Single Crochet = sc
Double Crochet = dc
Increase = inc
decrease = dec
yo = yarn over

The finished piece should be a closely stitched (a little stiff). Always use the back loop (loop closest to you).  The piece is worked from the "wrong side" primarily in single crochet.
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With H hook, chain 30 and join. (This chain should be the size that fits around your arm where you want the mitten to begin).

From this point forward use the F hook.

SC in each chain stitch around (30 sc), join, ch 2.
DC in each sc (30 dc), join. 

From this point the piece is done in a spiral, mark the beginning of each row.

Sc until the piece measures approximately 5 inches (or desired length to wrist).  (Approximately 14 rows).

THUMB SHAPING:

SC the first stitch of the next row (marked stitch), 2 sc in next sc (1 inc).  Sc in the next two stitches, 2 sc in next stitch (1 inc). Mark the next sc and sc the remaining stitches in the row. 

(I like to mark the stitch before and the stitch after my increases).

Work even for the next row (sc in each sc). 

Follow this pattern: Inc 1 sc after the first marker, sc in each stitch until one stitch before the next marker, inc 1 sc in that stitch, work a sc in each stitch for the remainder of the row. 
Work the next row even (sc in each sc).

Follow this pattern until there are 14 sc between your markers.  Work two even rows after that inc.

THUMB:

SC in each stitch after the first marker, sc the stitch before the second marker, chain 2.  Join the chain to the stitch after the first marker with a sc, (mark this stitch as the beginning of the row).  There should be 16 stitches in the join.  Work even in sc on these 16 stitches until you have a length long enough for your thumb (approximately 6 rows). 
Dec row: (bring up a loop in the next two stitches, yo and pull through three loops on hook- one dec made).  Dec around until there are 8 stitches remaining.  Cut a long tail and bring it through the last loop on the hook.  Weave the tail into the remaining stitches.  Pull tight to close the top of the thumb.  Remove markers.

HAND OPENING:

Attach yarn two stitches before the chain 2, sc in each stitch around, there should be 28 sc stitches in the row. Work even in a spiral until the piece measures the length needed for your hand (approximately six rows).  Join and chain 2.  DC in each sc around, join and end.

MITTEN CAP (again using back loop):
Using F hook, chain 10.  SC in second chain from hook, sc in next 7 chain stitches.  In last chain stitch, 3 sc (mark second sc)- 1 inc, sc in each stitch on opposite side of chain. 
3 sc in first sc stitch, (mark second sc)- 1 inc, sc in each stitch until marked stitch, 3 sc in this stitch (mark second sc).

When there are 3 inc's on each end, there should be 27 sc stitches in the row.  Work even on these stitches until the mitten cap is long enough to fit over the fingers and over lap the mitten hand opening. (Approximately 9 rows), join, chain 2.  DC in each sc around, join.  SC in each dc, end.
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Make the second mitten exactly the same as the first.  Attach the mitten cap to the back of the mitten.
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The first set of mittens was done in Sport weight, I used 40 stitches and an E hook for them.  The striping was done by carrying the yarn behind the stitches. 

this one is my favorite out of the ones youve done    i love it! thanks!  how do you do that cute flower?

I made these instructions up a while back, they are a very basic flower that I like to use.  You can make one of two flowers with it. (You may have to save the file to see it at full size).

Here is a finished version of a panta that I designed.  The "quick and dirty" instructions can be found here:  http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=202801.msg2169459#msg2169459.

Oh, and also... What size of hook should I use? I can't spend a lot of money on the yarn, so I think I will get red heart super saver, or something along those lines.

I made the following sample using Red Heart Super Saver.  I used a G hook.  I think it will make a very thick sweater if you use the worsted weight.  I'd use something like baby yarn (fingering weight) with a much smaller hook (which means more work unfortunately).


This is a top view (without flash) to show the ribbing.  I started from the inside and worked my way out.  This causing the ribbing to point to the left and to the right.  I started with a chain end hdc'ed down both sides of the chain.  When I got to the point where I turned to go up the other side of the chain, I did three hdc's in the last stitch.  I turned and then did a row of single crochets putting three stitched in the second of the three hdc's at the "point".  Basically I worked a row of hdc, then a row of sc to establish the ribbing.  When I decided that the bust was large enough, I then hdc'ed to the center and then created a chain that would be the length of the sweater, turned and put in a row of hdc all the way back to the beginning.  (When I got back to the "point" area I did pick up a loop along the side of the hdc there to minimize any hole that might be created).  I hdc'ed to the end and then returned with a row of sc, etc.  To finish the other side of the bust I attached yarn and continued in the pattern from the opposite side.

The effect of doing this created a nice space for the bust while leaving the waist area nice and snug.  Here is a side view to show the height difference:


My suggestion would be to work with the thought of creating two pieces worked from the center front around to the center back.  Create the two pieces and then put them together to form the tube for the body of the sweater.  Create the shrug-like tube for the arms and back.  Attach the arms to the tube from underarm to underarm across the back.  Use the picot stitches across the front to add decoration and tighten the top.

Hope all this made sense.  If I ever make one of these (and it's highly likely I will when I finish a few other projects) I'll try and remember to post a pic somewhere.

If I were going to try this, I would definitely try using half double crochet stitch to replicate the knitted ribbed look.  I'd make a long tube to go across the arms and back (rectangular shape with hdc ribbing).  I'd make another tube to go around the trunk (bust/waist) area (hdc lengthwise, not horizontal).  Although the ribbing is really what sets off this sweater, you can try using increases at the bust by single crocheting on the return row, and hdc.  Since these are preliminary thoughts I haven't worked out the actual sweater yet.  In fact the more I think about it I think you should start with the bust pieces and work around them.


quick drawing of what I am talking about (forget about the slipped stitches).

I may work up a small version of this just to test the theory.