It's been a while since I've been here. Life and other stuff got in the way. I know there are other fabric bucket tutorials out there but I make mine a little different and I'll also throw in a little extra - stamping on fabric!!! So, here goes.
You only need a few scraps of fabric to make these cuties. The one I show in the tutorial is a 4 inch bucket. That's the size I mostly make as it stands up well on its own. I've also made a 6 inch bucket for a gift that required more than a 4 inch size. I purchased 40cm (16 inches) of fabric to make this 4 inch bucket and I can get two buckets from the length of fabric. If you choose fabric wisely, you won't need interfacing. I use Duck cloth which requires no interfacing. Start by cutting out the following:
Two: 8.5 x 6.25 inch (on the fold - as shown in the photo) Two: 2 x approx. 5 inch
Keeping the fabric folded, cut out 2 x 1.75 inch corners (Pay attention to which is the 2 inch side and which is the 1.75 inch side - refer to the photo. The fold is the bottom edge in the photo) from both corners and from both fabric pieces.
Mark and cut the corners:
This is what it looks like when unfolded:
Take your 2 x approx. 5 inch pieces:
Fold them in half lengthwise and press. Fold the edges to the middle and press. Top stitch along both lengths of each piece. These will be the handles. Trim them both to 4.5 inches in length:
Now the fun part!!! Grab your favourite rubber stamp - whether that be a photopolymer (clear) one, a red rubber one or one you (or someone else) have carved from an eraser. It can be detailed or simple - it doesn't matter. Get some felt and put on a plate. Squeeze some acrylic paint onto the felt and using a paintbrush, 'paint' the acrylic paint into the felt so that there are no more 'puddles' of paint. It's now an inkpad:
Press your stamp into the inked felt and stamp away onto the fabric, making sure you have reasonably even spacing. Rotate the stamp to create a random pattern. Here's where I started:
Keep going until the fabric is covered:
To make it look like you've cut the fabric from a bolt, you need to stamp part of the image along the cut edge. Place some scrap paper under your fabric and stamp the image on the edge of the fabric, like this:
While you wait for your fabulous stamped creation to dry (it doesn't take very long), wash out your felt and you can re-use it. Clean your paintbrush and plate. By this time your stamped fabric should be dry. Press the stamped fabric using the cotton setting, no steam. As the bucket is unlikely to be laundered, the ink should remain permanent. I know, because I've spilt acrylic paint on my jeans and I still haven't got it out!!!!
Onto construction of the bucket. I use a 1/4 inch seam throughout. Start by pressing 1/4 inch hem on the 2 edges of both the 'I' shapes as shown in the picture:
Unfold the hem and sew the side seams of both the outer and lining bags. Finger press the seams open:
Sew the bottom corners of each bag (sorry - not an actual picture of the corner but hopefully you get the idea):
Turn the outer bag right side out:
Mark 1/2 inch either side of each side seam as shown in the photo:
Pin the handles using the marks as a guide. There should be a 1 inch gap between one end of the handle to the other:
With wrong sides together, place the lining inside the outer bag, lining up the side seams:
Top stitch around the top edge to close the bucket. This is where I have a confession. All my photos show pins however I took them all out as I find pins get in the way because when I use pins, I concentrate on not running over them rather than lining up seams etc., so personally, I don't like to use them. Here is the bucket all finished!:
Here it is next to another one I stamped using one of my own eraser stamps. As you can see, it looks very different - just by using different coloured fabrics and stamps!:
As I mentioned at the beginning, I made a 6 inch version. For this one, I used a clear photopolymer stamp on white duck cloth. Here is the comparison between the 6 inch and 4 inch:
Enjoy! As always, if you have any questions, please ask!
It was time I made my other son some luggage too. So, here it is!!:
Yes, it's for a boy - an 8 year old boy!! He chose the fabric including a hot pink plain fabric for the lining!! The outer fabric is called 'Bad to the Bone' by Robert Kaufman.
I used a super heavy duty interfacing. I literally wrestled with it on the sewing machine but I'm extremely pleased with the result. The bag is empty in the picture so it is standing up by itself. It's almost like cardboard. I would highly recommend it.
After reading Craftsters post on Facebook, I felt it was, again, time to give back!! This tutorial is assuming you have basic sewing knowledge.
Firstly, choose a pair of pajama pants (or any comfy pants at that matter) with elasticized or draw string waist. These are the ones I chose. They are capri length - but you could do any length - from shorts to longs.
Start by turning the pants inside out. Then place one leg inside the other, like this:
Fold the fabric parallel to the selvedge (this takes care of directional fabric). You can fold it the other way if you don't have directional fabric. Place the pants on the two layers of fabric:
Cut the fabric (through both layers of fabric) following the seam lines as a guide plus adding a little extra as you cut. This allows for the fact that the pants aren't laying completely flat and the fabric you are cutting is. Also, when you get to the seat of the pants on the outer leg, you basically cut a straight line from the hip area - DON'T follow the curve in. The reason is that the elastic is pulling in the sides. The same rule applies for the crotch seam. Start cutting at the curve of the crotch seam but basically go in a straight line after the curve (refer to the photo to visualize this). Also you need to allow for a hem at the bottom and an elastic casing at the top.
You will also see that the elastic casing at the top of my ready made pants varies by about an inch. That's because pants are usually 'higher' at the back than they are at the front. This takes the backside into consideration. I don't bother varying the waistline but you could angle the casing at the front if you desire - it gives a better fit. In the case of my pants, it varies by about and inch from the centre back seam to the centre front seam.
How I calculate the casing:
Measure the width of the elastic then double that measurement. Mine was approximately 1 inch wide. I allowed 2 inches for the casing. An explanation of how I use this calculation is further down when it comes time to sew the casing.
This is one leg cut out. Cut another leg using this as a pattern.
Now, there are many ways to construct pants but this is my favourite as you can't go too wrong with this method. Take one leg and sew the outer leg seam. BEFORE SEWING THE INNER LEG SEAM - press the leg hem allowance. It makes sewing the hem so much easier if it's pressed now. Then sew the inner leg seam. REPEAT for the other leg.
See where I pressed the hem first?:
Now, you've got two legs:
Turn one leg right side out:
Place this leg inside the other one:
Sew the crotch seam:
Press the leg hem again. Also make your casing using your favourite method. This is how I do my casings: Remember I added 2 inches from the top of the pants? I press the top down by 2 inches. I then press the raw edges under enough so that the casing is 1 1/4 inches (my elastic is 1 inch). This allows a little 'give' in the casing. Sew the casing down leaving a gap to insert the elastic. Thread elastic through and measure the elastic on your waist/hips (wherever you like to wear your pants). Sew elastic together then sew the casing closed. To avoid the elastic curling and twisting inside the casing, I sew a vertical line at each side seam to secure the elastic.
Tip: It's better to make a casing for your elastic rather than sewing the elastic onto the fabric. Once you start sewing through elastic (especially lengthwise) it starts to lose its elasticity and also stretches the elastic as you are also pulling on the elastic as you stitch it to the fabric.
Turn your pants right side out and press. Voila, pyjama pants made from your favourite pair!!
As always, please feel free to ask any questions or if you would like something explained further.
After breaking numerous wallets because of too many cards stuffed in it, a friend suggested that I have a separate card holder. I've seen tutorials online, but I ended up creating my own pattern. It's about 4 inches wide x 2.5 inches high. It fits up to about 1/2 inch stack of cards. I have totally enclosed the side seams, including the lining (not like most card holders that have the sides just folded up and sewn). Onto the pictures:
Close up of side view and inside lining. You can see that all the side seams are encased - including the lining, not just folded up and sewn:
It aaaages since I've posted anything. I've been working full time for the last 6 months and haven't had time to craft. Feels good to be back!
My old wallet fell apart (as usual, the lining gave way), so in an attempt to start stash busting, I made a new wallet. It's about 4 x 4.5 inch. Not all my cards fit because I have too many so I have most of my cards in a small coin pouch. It has a pocket on one side for the cards and a clear pocket for a photo/id etc. The other side is a zippered coin purse. I also made a section for notes. Next time (if there is a next time), I would change this slightly as the corners on the top on the outside are slightly different than the corners on the bottom:
I made another one with slight modifications. I made the tab closure a little tighter fitting which makes the wallet sit a little better. I also altered the outer and lining to make it sit nicer on the outside. You probably can't see the difference from the photos, but in 'real life' there is quite a difference:
This is a bag I've had in my head for ages and only recently got around to making one. I'm making these for my boys' school teachers this easter filled with easter eggs. I couldn't find any easter themed fabric, so I just chose some fabric in the colours the teachers would like.
Please do not sell this tutorial - even if altered in some way. Please respect this so that these tutorials can continue. In saying this, though, you are welcome to sell what you make using this tutorial.
OK. Onto the tutorial. Firstly, you will need a tin - any sized tin will do. In saying that, it will make your life easier if your tin fits over the end of your sewing machine (you will see why later in the tutorial). Wash and dry your tin thoroughly. If you choose a tin in which a smell lingers, wash it in a 20% bleach solution. It will get rid of any nasty odours left behind!!
Now you need to measure the diametre of the tin. You can see from the picture that mine is a little under 4 inches. You need to give yourself about 1/8th inch 'give', so I took the 4 inch measurement.
Now you need to make a circle. The radius of my circle is half the diametre of the tin - ie. 2 inches plus 1/4 inch seam allowance therefore measure 2 1/4 inches on your compass and draw a circle:
Cut 2 circles - one from the outer fabric and one from the lining fabric:
OK. Here's the maths. Next you will need to work out what size your sides will be. On your calculator, type in this:
4 (tin diametre with no seam allowances) x 3.142 (pi) =
The answer in this case is 12.56 which I rounded to 12.5 inches. Next add seam allowances which will be 1/2 inch (1/4 inch either end of the rectangle). So the width of the side will be cut to 13 inches.
OK. That's the hardest part!! Now you need to work out what height you will make your bag. This is really up to you but there needs to be a minimum - which is the tin height, plus half the diametre, plus two seam allowances. My measurements were:
4 1/4 (height of tin) + 2 (half diametre) + 1/2 (two seam allowances) + 1 (I wanted the bag a little higher) = 7 3/4. Then I just rounded it off to 8 for simplicity's sake.
Therefore I cut my sides 13 x 8. Cut one of the outer fabric and one of lining fabric
If you want, you can embellish the sides with ribbon, lace, decorative trim or whatever you like.
Fold down and press 1/4 inch along the 13 inch (circumference measurement) length of both the outer and lining fabrics:
On the wrong side of the outer fabric, make a mark 1/2 inch down from the fold:
Fold the rectangle in half so that the 8 inch sides line up (the height measurement) and start sewing from the top and stop at the fold. Restart sewing at the 1/2 inch mark you just made down to the bottom of the seam:
Repeat with the lining but simply sew the complete seam from top to bottom:
Press seam open and on the right side, sew a rectangle around the opening of the seam to strengthen it:
Clip into the seam allowance, about every 1/2 inch or so, along the bottom raw edge:
Pin the circle to the cylinder. With the circle on the bottom, sew the cylinder to the circle.
Repeat for the lining:
Place tin inside the outer bag:
Place the lining inside the tin, making sure to line up the seams:
Pin the layers together:
Now, this is where you need to make sure the bag can fit under the presser foot sufficiently. If not, you will need to hand sew the layers together then sew another line of stitching to form a casing.
Sew two lines of stitching as shown below to form a casing (whether the stitching is by machine or hand will depend on whether the bag fits under your machine's presser foot):
Thread ribbon or cord through the casing and knot the ends to secure. Fill with whatever and enjoy!! You can also use the tin to hold 'stuff' if you push the top of the drawstring bag down into the tin, like this:
I've had this project in my head for ages and I've finally done a prototype. I'm going to use these to give as teacher gifts for my boys' school teachers and fill them with chocolate eggs for easter - but with more, well, easter themed fabric!!:
And...this is what is between the outer and lining fabrics!! Well not really the dog food, but an empty one of these....:
A couple of other views:
And, it can double up as a 'bits and pieces' holder if you push the top down inside:
If there's enough interest, I can do a quick tutorial!!?!
Added a mobile phone pocket instead of a flat pocket
Added a zipper
Lengthened the strap to 24"
Interfaced the outer top
A couple of words of advice. If you choose to interface the lining, the outer top and the handle and you sandwich the strap between the lining and outer - make sure your machine can handle thick layers otherwise you'll be breaking lots of needles!!!
OK. Firstly, I'll show you how I added the zipper. You need to start by altering your pattern. Cut the lining an inch or so down from the top, then add 1/4" seam to either piece, like this:
Then cut your pieces for the bag. You need to cut extra pieces. 4 pieces, width of the zipper x probably 2 or more inches (for the ends of the zipper) and another 4 pieces, 2 inches x a bit longer than the length of the outer upper piece of the pattern (for the sides of the zipper). If this is a little confusing now, it may make more sense in the pictures further down. You need to add the little tab bits to the ends of the zipper like this:
Then you need to add the side bits to the zipper, like this:
Then you need to cut the whole piece to 1 3/4" wide x length of outer upper piece, centering the zipper, like this:
Now you need to sandwich the zipper between the lining bottom and top, like so:
Repeat for the other side. This is what it should look like:
Then sew the lining together. With the ends of the zipper, make sure they go 'upwards' when catching in the lining, like this:
Make sure you leave an opening in the lining to turn right sides out:
I did a test first as I had read others comments that the bag was small and if they made it again, it would be larger. So, I made one and, yes, it was way too small. It only fit my phone, wallet and glasses - even then it was at a pinch. So I enlarged it by 25%. Now it's the perfect size for me!!!
I altered the pattern significantly. When doing the pleats, they didn't match the contrasting band, so I winged the middle pleat and made a box pleat. I put a mobile phone pocket instead of a flat one, added a zipper instead of a magnetic clasp and I sewed the strap between the outer and lining. I also added interfacing to the contrasting band with great results!! The lining is interfaced but the outer bottom isn't - it's a great result. A bag with structure but not the 'stiffness' on the outside.
Then - the fabric!!! That fantabulous linen/cotton print is titled 'Winter Nest' and is hand printed by a Sydney designer, Kristen Doran. I bought a panel of this gorgeous fabric at the Stitches and Craft Show in Sydney, Australia last year. I finally got to use it.
Enough babbling - onto the pictures:
This is the original sized bag from the pattern on top of the 25% bigger one:
Thanks for looking!
Edit: I just realised that there is another post of these bags.....which sings the praises of this pattern. I too, really love the scale of this bag. Great pattern all round. The only drawback (not for me - but perhaps someone else) is that you cannot sell the bags you make from this pattern.
Here are some rings I've made over the holidays. I used a tutorial from www.jewelrymakingprofessor.com. The ring takes 30 swarovski crystals to make and use both 3mm and 4mm bicones.
Firstly, the black one. This is my favourite:
Next, the purple one. This has a contrasting border which for some reason I don't really like the contrast of these colours, but when I made this ring, I only had the clear 3mm beads and I wanted to see what a contrasting border would look like:
And, finally the clear one. This is great, because it goes with alot of outfits: