Heey, so this is total hearsay, but supposedly the previous owner of the Hancock's at Schoolcraft and Inkster Rd. is opening a new independent fabric store at the same location. I tried calling the old Hancock's phone number and nobody answered, but I can't seem to come up with a new name or number, and haven't had a chance to drive out there yet.
Has anyone else heard anything about it? It's supposedly open, and if you've been, what's it like?
Looks great!! I've wanted to make one, but (like everyone else!) I just haven't gotten around to it.
Couple of questions- -How many layers and what type of felt did you use, and does it really make it pinnable (compared to a professional dress form, if you've had experience with one) and - did you fill it with anything to make it more sturdy? I was thinking about using that expandable foam stuff, but wasn't sure how well it would work, or if it would expand too much!
Simplicity 4496 (simplicity won't let you link to specific patterns- just do a search on simplicity.com) - this one is a "Threads" magazine pattern, so it should have good instructions, even though it's a bit more complicated than the McCall's one
Once you find a pattern you like, keep it!! It's so simple to make multiple skirts from a great pattern- use different fabrics, add trim or ribbons or stencil something on it- and you'll have a whole bunch of different skirts that all fit well and look great. good luck!
There's a really great pattern from Green Pepper... (www.thegreenpepper.com) pattern #529 is what I made- the fingerless gloves. It would've been pretty tricky to figure out on my own, so the pattern really helped. They've got another pattern for one with fingers, too. They sell them in the JoAnn's by me... but you can call them and order the pattern too. HTH!
I believe all the major pattern companies (Vogue, Simplicity, McCalls) put the alteration lines on their patterns. When you look at the envelope back it'll usually say "For Misses/Miss Petite" or something... even though petite is the opposite direction from what you're looking for, it means it has the lines to shorten, which is usually the same spot that you'd lengthen.
They'll usually let you know if they don't put the lines on, in which case the pattern will say something like "No provisions made for above-the-waist adjustment" or something like that.
Another option, if you find patterns you like that don't have adjustment placements, would be to get a basic pattern drafting book- it should show you how to alter patterns and what you need to change to make things fit you better.
MMmmkay.. easiest way to go about it: After you've basically sewn together your pant pieces, make the waistband casing around the top edge. Do button holes or something in front so the drawstring can poke out. Cut your elastic the length of the back waist (side seam to side seam) minus a few inches. It'll vary depending on your pattern and how tight you'd like it to be. Cut two pieces of cording, and stitch one to either end of the elastic, overlapping by at least an inch. Now, thread this through your waistband, aligning one edge of your elastic (within the casing) at a side seam. Topstitch vertically right over the side seam through the casing, securing both elastic and cord in the casing so they won't move. Gather your back waistband over the elastic to match up the second side seam, and do the same. This way, the back waistband is gathered over the elastic a bit, but the elastic and drawcord are both secured in each side seam within the casing. I just woke up, so I hope this makes sense to you. Good luck!
Oooh ooh! Cut off the bottom couple inches, the piece in some other knit fabric, then sew the black bottom back on below- it'll give the impression of a wide, high-waisted belt, almost like an obi or sash i suppose?? Hehe, I might do that with some of my regular sized shirts anyway! Thanks for the idea :-)
Referring back to step 5: the "self facing" is the fabric on either side of the center front that probably gets interfaced, and folded back towards the inside. It just means it's a facing, but it's "self" because it's the same piece as the fronts, not a separate piece.
Ususally the way it's done, you sew the skinny edges of your back facing to the skinny edges of your front "self" facing. These seams will eventually match up with your shoulder seams. Attaching your back facing now forms a large loop, into which the collar will be sewn.
You then sew up the collar on it's own, and baste it closed if you like.
Line up your collar onto the coat neckline, again matching your markings so your collar is centered. This will be on the coat side of the "facing loop" you made earlier. Now, with wrong sides out, flatten your loop so the front self facing (now connected to the back facing, connected to the other front facing) matches up with the rest of the coat to make a collar sandwich. Here's where step 7 comes in, stitch straight across from front to front, sandwiching in the collar. Clip your seam allowance here, and turn RS out. Tack your facing at the shoulder seams to keep it from flipping out, and press well.
Again, I don't have the exact pattern, but this should correspond pretty well to your directions. Hope this was helpful!! Ask me for more if you need clarification.
I had an entire class devoted to swim and activewear at my school... so I've made a bunch! It's not hard, as long as you have a bit of patience with your serger. Important things to remember: On nylon lycra, the greatest stretch goes WITH the 'grain', so your pattern pieces get laid out 90 degrees from how they do on wovens and other knits. Check in your pattern drafting book to see if it has a section on swimwear (the book I used was great- "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" by Helen Joseph Armstrong), and draft up a basic tank suit sloper. From there you can cut, split, and redesign to your liking. Make sure you use sew through (knit, not woven) elastic, or clear or rubber elastic. Cut it to 20% less than the opening it's being sewn into. Divide your elastic and the opening into fourths, match up the marks, and stretch and serge the elastic in that way- sometimes it helps to hand baste it in. Hope this helps!