How big is the room? Are there two slanted walls or just one? I'm assuming there's only one slanted wall, and three straight walls, which are out of bounds due to doors, windows and heaters, right?
Could you maybe do something like this?
Your feet don't need that much room in bed, but your head end does, so could you put your bed in with your feet toards the small slanted end, and a big (but not too tall) bookcase or cupboard that is accessible for storage on one side, and acts as a headboard for the bed on the other side? That's the only thing I can think of... I've always wanted to do this as it looks really New York lofty to me, you could have a nice lamp on the bookcase, and a plant, that sort of thing, and you could use the lamp to read by in bed, or as an accent light in the room when you're not in bed.
It seems pretty straightforward, so i don't quite know what you're having trouble with, but just in simpler terms:
Make two pieces A and B. A has two straight ribbons coming out from one edge, which you attach with a satin stitch along the black zigzaggy line. B has two crossed ribbons coming out from one edge, which you also attach with a satin stitch along the black zigzaggy line. Then you put the pieces next to each other, with the ribbons from A laying on top of B, and the ribbons from B laying on top of A. You then attach the far end of the ribbons from A to the far edge of piece B with a satin stitch along the red zigzaggy line, and you attach the far end of the ribbons from piece B to the far edge of piece A with a satin stitch along the red zigzaggy line. And the you're done. Hope this helps.
I like the incense holder, that's nifty. And I love your wooden floorboards. I think you need to be careful with these kind of sea-themed bits and bobs, I like the idea of "rowers paradise", but you need to watch out that it doesn't turn into "seafood restaurant", if you get my drift. Lol "drift" gettit?? Sorry, I'm a bit caffeined up this morning.
I was looking at all the big shells and thinking if you turned them upside down (so that they're cup shaped) and maybe drill a hole near the bottom, you could bolt them onto a really long screw thread, with a little bolt on top and underneath, and make a little shell shelving system for your keys and change or for earrings and such. Kind of like this extremely crude tuesday morning drawing:
That's the first thing that came to mind which wasn't too lobster restauranty. Good luck with your room.
I'm not actually sure if you want the x-bag or not, you seem to have changed your mind, but as it's the title of the thread, I've mocked up a basic pattern, so anyone who wants to make one can understand how it actually goes together.
I don't quite know how you would sew this whole thing together, I have a feeling it might be sewed on the right side, as opposed to inside out, because I can't quite see how you would turn a three compartment bag inside out. Basically, if you mock up a piece of paper in the shape of the top pattern, except with a longer strap part in the middle, fold it in half lengthways and then fold the bag like shown, you'll suddenly have a paperpattern Eureka moment like I just did as to how this bag works, and where the three compartments come from.
Basically, you add the straps right at the beginning, just after you've made that M-shaped bag and lining combo in the first picture. You then baste the straps to the inside of the bag at the top, so that one end is even with the bag. Make it so that, when you fold the fabric on top of each other as in the finished bag, one of the straps is sticking out the left side and one of the straps is sticking out of the right side of the unfinished bag. Basically what the rest of the instructions are getting at, is that you end up sewing a channel into the top of the bag, and the sticking the strap that is attached to the top piece of fabric/lining into the channel you've made in the bottom piece, and the strap from the bottom piece into the channel on the top piece. So if the top strap comes out on the right side, you stick it into the channel of the bottom piece on the right side and feed it through until it comes out on the left. That way, when you pull on the straps the bag will pucker and close. I don't quite see how these instructions work, because it seems to me that the hole where the strap comes out is left unfinished, that bit doesn't seem quite clear to me. A quick and dirty illustration:
You're welcome. Even the ikea cover itself doesn't use the l-shape, it seems to have the seam marked A as well. I would use the fabric lengthways, instead of straight up, if you catch my drift. I can't imagine the bottom piece would be more than about 3 feet wide (from the B to the E seam) Then you'd probably need two lengths for the top piece, I'd cut it like this from three lengths of fabric:
Cutting it the other way up would leave a seam running down the centre, which wouldn't be ideal, and would be really hard to line up when you're sewing the B seam. Ergo, you'll be needing something with no pattern whatsoever, otherwise the pattern would run really weirdly, especially up the short sides of the square piece. Bonus of cutting it this way, if the sofa is standing against a wall, is that you could, if you're using expensive fabric, choose to use a scrap of something else for the yellow bit, which would be the bottom of the back panel, and therefore not visible.
Other than that, I have no real advice, the only thing I'd say is that if you are using something with a pattern, or even a texture, I'd cut the two short ends of the bottom piece seperately and join them on, creating a seam from the point where A joins B to the top of the D seam, just because I think that would look neater.
That's your basic pattern for this cover. Basically, you'll want to take the measurements of the existing cover, be sure to add a bit of length to measurement A (or D, both the same length) and C, because you want to make sure the old cover doesn't poke out of the bottom of the new cover. A (and D) is the measurement from the seat of the sofa to the bottom of the cover. B is the length of the sofa, C is the measurement from the back of the seat over the top of the sofa to the bottom of the cover at the back. There are two pieces, the bottom one is the seat part, which is just a square, if you want it fitting snugly you can taper it like the dotted line. Just sew the two D lines together, and make sure you have a seam allowance at the A/B end when you're done, because you'll need it later. The other bit is the rounded top end of the sofa, you'll have to draft a pattern for the two rounded parts from the existing cover, then start sewing at the * end, sewing the two C lines together (again you can taper it if you want it tighter at the bottom. The C seam will not reach the end of the rounded bit of fabric, it will stop halfway there, leaving you just enough to attach the A part of the other section. When you have these two pieces done, you sew them together along the lines A, B and A again, and you have a full cover. E are the seams that will end up at the bottom of the cover. I'd suggest hemming them last when the whole thing is done, or maybe hemming in a channel for a drawstring or some loose elastic. The Ikea cover itself isn't exactly the best fitting thing ever made, so be creative, or you'll end up with a very loose fitting sack.