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I would definately see if you can get it checked out by someone- if you have a local source for spinning supplies they may know a person, or can do it themselves.
In the mean time I would go over all moving joins and brush out any fluff that may be clogging and give it a good oiling. On your setup I would clean and oil the three joins where the treadle joins the rest of the wheel- if the join is leather get any fluff out, but be a little conservative in your oil doses.
Also, the join at the middle of the wheel - don't, however, shoot oil into any holes in the solid part of the wheel itself (this can cause the parts to expand as the wood soaks up the oil), just on the outside of the wheel. Also where the rod from the treadle comes up to move the wheel.
To set up a drive band use non-stretchy string- mine is set up with waxed cotton that was tied firmly and then sewn down, but your repairist might have another preference, so if you just want to see it moving don't worry about the sewing.
Once you have the drive band moving other moving parts will become apparent, and clean and oil them in the same way as you have the others. From what I see, the metal hole next to the large round verticle disk will need to be oiled as somethign rotates in it, and so will the other down the opposite end.
It is a really beautiful wheel, and apart from either having some bobbins made up, or tracking some down, I wouldn't imagine the cost of getting it up and running would be too great. If there are any leather parts they may need to be replaced.
Your stuff looks great and even. When it isn't twisted up it will be kinky- its a single so it can't be balanced like a plied yarn could. While you can spin a single with low twist that will hang straight, it isn't expected right off the bat(t)!
Anyway, what you have done so far is fantastic, and it does get easier and more even and the rest of it. I stuggle to get the fun slubs, thick singles and uneveness I had when I was a beginner now. I really didn't appreciate them.
Just as an added suggestion; if you are in a convenient place to do so what you might want to try is ripping out the ribbing at the end of the sleeves and body, sewing your stuff, and then re-doing the ribbing on your newly created edges. It'll hide any uneven edges and make it look a little neater.
I spun up some Romney fleece, and although I found it quite rough to both spin with and knit with the finished bag felted beautifully.
I wouldn't use what I had for a next to the skin object; even a felted hat- it was just too coarse. When I spun it I was fairly new to spinning and so there were probably flaws in my technique which made it so rough, and your tolerance may be higher than mine.
The yarn had a really nice sheen to it (lanolin perhaps ) and the FO felted well, but not terribly smoothly. It had little loops coming of the bag and looked textured. Again, this might have been my spinning, though mistake or not it looked good. When I bought it, it was recommended for felting.
FWIW it also took a food colouring dye job really well.
Continental and combined aren't exclusive, and refer to different things;
Combined/Western- how the stitches are oriented on the needles. Dictated by how you wrap the yarn around the needle. If you were a western knitter and knit as you typically do on a stitch which was oriented the way a combined knitter would have it, the stitch would be twisted. There's also Eastern knitting, which is another variation on how stitches are formed, knitted/purled into. All of these styles are as versatile as each other; all can from stickinette, garted, lace, cables etc.
Continental/ English- Which hand, whether you are a thrower of a picker etc.
My speed was ramped up when I went continental, and then again when I went combined. YMMV though- you knit fastest the way you are most comfortable with. Additionally, the k/p of western knitting use different amounts of yarn, and although the measurement is miniscule, once multiplied across many stitches it can cause the knitting to row out, and for the tensions of k/p in stockinette to be visibly different. After you've been knitting a while you tend to compensate for this by purling tighter than you knit, but if this is something you are having trouble with, combined might be worth a look.
If I'm thinking of the same thing, those tatsy's are pretty cool. I saw some baby dresses where the bodice had been tatted with yarn, and then the skirt crocheted or knitted. Did she find them at all awkward to use?
I tat a little- not as much as I wan't though. Unlike some of the other stuff I do, I have found applications of it into my life a little challenging. Contemporary Tatting: New Designs from an Old Art by Judith Connors has some pretty interesting techniques which I haven't seen before, and am hoping to try out eventually. I found the patterns a little ho-hum, but the construction is interesting.
Tatting is straightforward enough once you can flip the loop, but it is nasty to undo. Once you've closed a ring, or moved along in a pattern, the only solution I know is to do some cutting and joining which leaves some beastly ends. The end product is worth it though; so pretty.
Pixing- Pineapple motifs and hooks sounds like it may be crochet which you are talking about?
I have a compact case I am working on where the front is some hardanger (done) and the back tatted, but I'm having trouble finding a square motif I can adapt. I should probably search some more...
This is a point of curiosity and none of you need answer, but what type of shuttles do you like? Ones with hooks built in or seperate, pick or no, bobbin or rigid wind on type? I don't have any particular preference, though I feel a little less in control with the bobbin'd shuttles.
I started off English Western, but soon after I picked up knitting went to continental. My purls got lost in translation though, so I have always purled combined, just wasn't aware of it until I thought I would give combined a go and couldn't find the difference between what I was doing and what was being shown.
I found the change easy, probably becuase the stitch with the most dramatic change- purling- remained the same for me. I like knitting into the back loop as I think it makes what I'm doing a bit smoother, but when working in the round I still knit into the front as my stitches aren't twisted. Also, it can get a little tedious working in moss stitch or ribbing in the round, as there are instances where I need to purl though the back loop, which I hadn't needed to before.
I also have a greater appreciation of how stitches are formed, and I can look at my old work and see that it is twisted- I could read my knitting, I was just a little unaware of what stockinette was meant to look like I guess.
I think combined and continental are both nice to try, just to test if there is a way more comfortable than the current way you knit. You've already got the combined thing down, so it maybe that you just need to experiment with different ways to hold the needles and yarn with continental. What works for me may not work for you; you may need to hold the yarn lower to make it feel right, especially as its a new(er) way of purling.
Hope that was relatively clear . Have fun, good luck.
I knit combined continental, and making purls are a breeze for me this way- I just flick the yarn around the needle, my thumb isn't involved.
I loosen my grip for more yarn by moving my pinkie out, feeding more yarn toward my hand. This is exaggerated here- unless what I'm using is really, really sticky I don't make a movement worth mentioning; for every stitch I do, my pinkie might move 2mm max. This yarn though, just slips through.
Making a purl- I just realised it looks like my thumb is helping to form the stitch, but that is just were it sits when I'm knitting.
My index finger is quite a way away from the tip of the needle- this both helps me flick, and control the slightly slippery yarn I'm using (100% Alpaca). If I were using something sticky, it would be much closer to the needle. I knit at a slightly loose tension- probably a difference of 0.25-0.5mm needle sizes from what I use to what is recommended.
I would say purl them, unless they performed some kind of decorative purl ridge (from the right side of the fabric) like perhaps a stem, which would probably be indicated in the instructions. If you don't mind me asking, what's the pattern?