Very cute!  I doubt I could pull it off so well.

I made almost the same color Trellis for my son.  So of course, I love the sweater!  I think it's the perfect "boy" sweater.

Thanks for all the kind comments. 

I believe the color is Yakima Heather.  I don't think Cascade puts the name on the skein, so that's a guess from a website.  It's a shame they don't print it on the wrapper.  I love seeing what someone thought a skein of yarn's name should be.

I started this sweater at the end of last winter and then stopped working on it because it'd be a while before I could wear it.  Since Fall is a coming, I broke it out and worked on it hard to clear it off my list. 
Here's Demi from Vintage Knits.

Pictures aren't the best since the yarn is a dark chocolate color, but here's a shot of the center panel.

After finishing it, I've decided that I'll never use a cable needle again.  It was a lot faster to just throw the needle out the window.
There's a couple more photos, specifics and pattern issues on our blog.

I'm having a slight problem with Betty from Rowan #38.  To form the sweater you create a rib, like this:

Row 1 (RS): inc 1 st in ea st, to end of row.
Row 2: K2tog, P2tog to end of row.

I started increasing by ktbl of each stitch, but then thought maybe I should be ptbl of the previous row's P2tog. 

What do you think Rowan wants you to do with these instructions? 

Check out the blog for more info!

I'm having a slight problem with Betty from Rowan #38.  To form the sweater you create a rib, like this:

Row 1 (RS): inc 1 st in ea st, to end of row.
Row 2: K2tog, P2tog to end of row.

I started increasing by ktbl of each stitch, but then thought maybe I should be ptbl of the previous row's P2tog. 

What do you think Rowan to do with these instructions? 

Check out the blog for more info!

Ever since learning the short row heel/toes from Simple Socks by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts, I always substitute her short row method on all my sock patterns.  She recommends that you do the heel with 20% of the CO stitches not wrapped.  It's hard to describe, so I highly recommend picking up the book.  She also wraps the stitches differently than any other pattern I've seen.  I've tried Wendy's Toe-Up method, but I had to have the pattern with me.  PGR method is easy to remember with different gauges.  Just plug and play....  It has become the only way I make my socks!

My mother started knitting again after watching my sister & I pick up the habit.  She's been a seamstress for as long as I can remember.  When she finished knitting her first sweater, she said she was going to seam it with the sewing machine.  I remember thinking, "You can't do that!"  Obviously, it turned out fine and she didn't have the stress of mattress stitching the entire thing (something we both hate).  Now I'm wondering if that would be easier and less stressful.  I just finished a cabled cardigan for my son and I'm thinking about hitting the sewing machine for this one.

Anyone else do their finishing with a sewing machine or is it a big knitting No-No?

I tried to do a search to see if anyone had asked this before, but just couldn't find the answer.  If there's one, please point me in the right direction.

I want to make a sweater with a different type of yarn.  The pattern calls for a gauge of 17 sts to 4 inches with a US 8 needle using a light worsted weight yarn. 

Using Paton's Classic Merino, I get 16 sts with a US 7 and 18 sts with US 6.  I blocked both swatches, so now what should I do?   

Is it the yarn's fault?  Or should I go with US 7 and just decrease the sweater size?  Per inch, I'm missing a .25 of a stitch.  Will that .25 of an inch make a big difference in the long run?

When it says to drop it down a few rows, I think it's just to get it out of your way.  In the beginning, I'd drop the stitch all the way down to the bottom because I'd get real excited.  Towards the end of the project, I'd drop it a few, pick the bar up, and keep on knitting.  When I finished, I went through and continued to drop all the stitches all the way to the bind off edge. 

Picking the bar up with your left needle, is just like making a M1.  I think that stops your Clapotis from shrinking.  This way you won't be loosing any stitches.  So, just do a M1 with the stitch that you dropped.  And that's why you need to drop it for at the least a couple rows.

Hopefully that makes sense.  I'm waiting for my yarn to come in for my second Clapotis.  A nice tv watching project.