I'd like to introduce Mr. Owl. I drafted this from scratch. Oh yes, it took FORever. My sister-in-law wanted a bag out of Amy Butler home dec fabric BUT I wasn't going to do a test run with that spendy $15/yd business. So I needed to make a muslin out of cheaper fabric. I've never done satin stitch applique. I've never used Solvy Water Soluble Stabilizer. I've never b4 used the infamous woven fusible interfacing Pellon SF101. I've never used fusible fleece. I've never put in a zipper pocket. So I thought, why not make this muslin count. I dragged out some $2/yd bits and pieces and I tried everything! I learned so much! Too much!!!
The final bag has got some rough edges but it's pretty usable all things considered. I gained some serious knowledge about SewPixie's fabulous zipper tutorial. Please click on the link to see a step it helps to know when doing this pocket: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=11808.msg3164427#msg3164427
Snaps to SewPixie for turning out a super tutorial for something tricky for newbies. SewPixie: that is one classic tutorial. Thank you.
What I learned that I give to you to do what you will with:
1) Fusible Fleece is a fascinating product. It worked great for the strap and would be really fun for the body of a quilted bag. I used a dry iron at the hottest temp. If you push too hard to get it to fuse you will lose most if not all it's loft. Trim it out of your seam allowances... it doesn't work well in the seams. Little glue dots/chips are everwhere after cutting and use. You'll be dusting them off your cutting table and ironing board for many moons. (I should clarify that the fusible fleece I used was likely HTC. I've since been informed that the Pellon Fusible Fleece Joann's is currently hocking bears little resemblance to the lofty quiltable stuff they used to sell.)
2)SF101 is a beast that I own 25 yards of. It's really the cheap and dirty option in the woven fusible world. I really don't like it but it's what is there... and cheap. It bubbles like mad. It shrinks the pieces of fabric considerably more than it should. It is weak and I wish it were dead. I know you need to press down for 10 seconds and not glide. I know you need use a wet pressing cloth over the back of the fusible. It doesn't matter too much in the end. I did however cut one corner I shouldn't have. Cut the fusible and the fabric from the pattern. I believe that cutting fusible from the pattern and then ironing the fusible directly onto the yardage (and then cutting out the piece) may have messed me up. I didn't know any better! (I have a bit of this other fancy woven fusible interfacing that I acquired at Stone Mountain and Daughter in Berkeley for approx. $6 a yard. Flat weave. Evenly applied glue. You can cut out pieces of it and iron directly on your yardage. It's a pricey dream boat that I'm hoarding. Go get your own!
3)Wonder Under is the most fabulous heat bond in the universe! Well I think it is. I haven't tried the cheapies I've acquired at Joann's. Everything bonded directly and evenly. So fab!
4) I was told later that interfacing your fabric before you stitch on the applique is not smart. The stiffness did lend a helpful hand with process though. Forcing the needle to punch through three layers of fabric, two layers of glue, and one layer of water soluble stabilizer may not have been wise but it was unexpectedly utilitarian and stiff for a newbie.
5) Sulky Solvy Water Soluble Stabilizer is good stuff for satin stitched applique but it's not flat when you buy it in a roll. Actually it's quite puckery and tweaky. If you don't figure out a way to flatten it will curve the fabric you are using it under... and pucker your design! Ouch!
Cutting off the "selvage" or edges usually helps.
Onto "The Mr. Owl Experience":