I used a pattern adaptation by SpiderWomanKnits on Ravelry to make adjustments for my yarn (a whole bunch of scrap Wool Ease Thick & Quick yarn from making all my reading shawls over the years) but made the back end pointier and omitted the back tassel.
Here's Denise sporting her new hood
From the side, showing the color transition.
A k2tog 5-point decrease every other row gives the fun swirl-shape that gradually comes to a point.
Finally finished my sketchbook and got it mailed out just in time. Here it is!
The front half of my book is a collection of small mixed media pieces that relate to the little intro I wrote on the first page of the book. Some images remind me of moments that flew by, some to time that seemed to sit still.
My son Parker was born last Sunday, and while I've been hanging out holding a sleeping baby on my chest, I've taken the opportunity to have some yarn in my hands. This beanie is made with Knit Picks Shine in worsted weight, but can be made in any soft worsted weight yarn. Machine washable is always a big bonus for babies, who I'm coming to find out are very messy! I came up with this very basic baby beanie with stripes of a coordinating color worked through the bottom. This hat pattern is quick, easy, and doesn't use much yarn at all.
Note: Stripe colors can either be carried up the back of the project, or can be trimmed and worked into the rows.
Row 1: with Main Color (MC) chain 3, then sl st into first chain st to create ring. Row 2: ch 2, dc 9 into ring. sl st into 1st dc to close round. Row 3: (ch 2, dc 1) into 1st st. dc 2 into each st, 9 times. sl st into 1st st. Row 4: (ch 2, dc 1) into 1st st. dc 1, (dc 2 into 1 st, dc 1) 9 times. sl st into 1st st. Row 5: (ch 2, dc 1) into 1st st. dc 2, (dc 2 into 1 st, dc 2) 9 times. sl st into 1st st. Row 6: (ch 2, dc 1) into 1st st. dc 3, (dc 2 into 1 st, dc 3) 9 times. sl st into 1st st. Row 7: ch 2, dc all sts. sl st into 1st st. Row 8-10: ch 2, dc all sts. sl st into 1st st. Row 11: with Accent Color (AC) ch 1, sc all sts. sl st into 1st st. Row 12: with MC, ch 1, hdc all sts. sl st into 1st st. Row 13: with AC, ch 1, sc all sts. sl st into 1st st. Row 14: with MC, ch 1, hdc all sts. sl st into 1st st. Row 15: with AC, ch 1, sc all sts. sl st into 1st st. Trim ends and weave in.
I also have sizes 3-6 months and 6-12 months on my webpage.
I made this great recycled t shirt rainbow rug for Earth Day, and I wanted to share it with you as another great idea for recycling old or thrifted t shirts.
Each round is made from part of a cut t shirt. I used t shirts in 14 different colors, and saved the left overs for other t shirt yarn projects.
Here's the t shirts before being processed into strips. I used Tulip Spray Fabric Paint to splatter paint them all before cutting them into yarn. This time I cut strips across the width of the shirt at a slight angle, and broke the strips at the weak point while stretching the strips, overlapping to join the pieces as I crocheted them.
I love using old things to make new and beautiful items, especially when they have a lot of vibrancy and color like this item. What will you make with t shirt yarn?
Over Christmas break, my husband Mark and I were watching a TV show with my mom about knit and crochet cables. I enjoy elegant details in my work, and loved the thought of crochet cables. However, I wasn't a big fan of how they worked their cables, and ideas started running through my head on how to create my ideal crochet cable.
I pictured this design as a cowl, because by design cables act a bit like ribbing, and a tube of ribbed fabric makes an excellent neck covering, which is perfect for the rainy winter months in the San Francisco Bay Area. The tiny scalloped top edging can also be omitted for a more masculine look.
Hook size H Gauge: 7 sts by 10 rows = 2 inches Yarn: On Line Linie 208 Nature-Wool Weight: Bulky / 12 ply (7-8 wpi)
Row 1: Ch 78, sl st into first st to join in the round, being careful not to twist sts.
Row 2: Turning foundation chain over, ch 1, then sc 77 into back loop of chain. Sl st into first st to join in the round.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc 77, sl st to join.
Row 4: Ch 2, dc 1, *(dc 4 into front of post, dc 2)* 12 times, dc 4 into front of post, sl st to join.
Row 5: Ch 2, dc 1, **(sk 2, dc 2 into front of post, cross in front of work and dc 2 into front of post of skipped sts, dc 2 into 2 following cabled post sts)**, sk 2, dc 2 into front of post, cross in front of work and dc 2 into front of post of skipped sts
Rows 6 - 8: Repeat row 4
Row 9: Repeat row 5
Row 10 - 12: Repeat row 4
Row 13: Repeat row 5
Row 14 - 15: Repeat row 4
Row 16: Repeat row 5
Row 17 - 18: Repeat row 4
Row 19: ch 1, sc 77
Row 20: Repeat row 16
Row 21: (Sl st, ch 3, sk st, sl st), repeat to end of row, slipping last st into first st. Pull tail straight up through final st.
Weave in ends. Block to shape.
Enjoy! I'd love to see photos of your variations in this thread.
3 more reading shawls completed for holiday presents:
For my mother-in-law Laurie
For my husband's grandma Eleanor
For my sister-in-law Jennifer
All plus my step-niece's shawl
I've got plans for a couple more, too, and eventually at least one for me. Plus, this pattern was featured as pattern of the day on dailyknitter.com, and I got 1700 hits on that page yesterday! Hooray!
Last night I finished a new pattern I designed for a birthday present for one of my best girlfriends. It's a big shawl, perfect for the cool fall days in the bay area, and great for curling up on the couch to read with.
I have a feeling I'll be making a bunch of these this year, because they're fast, easy, and knit up with huge needles and only 3 balls of yarn. Can't go wrong there!
Gauge and dimension are not critical in this piece, and dimensions can be altered by adding or decreasing stitches and rows to create desired length and width.
Row 1: Starting with Color 1 (C1) and using the long-tail method, cast on 60 sts. Leave C1 to the side. Row 2: Pick up Color 2 (C2) and k 60 sts. Leave C2 to the side. Row 3: Pick up Color 3 (C3) and k 60 sts. Leave C3 to the side. Row 4: Carry up C1, *k1, yo*, repeat * 58 times, k. Row 5: Carry up C2, *k1, drop 1*, repeat * 58 times, k. Row 6: Carry up C3, k 60 sts. Row 7: Carry up C1, k 60 sts. Row 8: Carry up C2, *k1, yo*, repeat * 58 times, k. Row 9: Carry up C3, *k1, drop 1*, repeat * 58 times, k. Row 10: Carry up C1, k 60 sts. Row 11: Carry up C2, k 60 sts. Row 12: Carry up C3, *k1, yo*, repeat * 58 times, k.. Row 13: Carry up C1, *k1, drop 1*, repeat * 58 times, k. Row 14: Carry up C2, k 60 sts. Row 15: Carry up C3, k 60 sts. Rows 16 - 60: repeat rows 4-15. Rows 61 - 75: repeat rows 4-14. Row 76: Carry up C3, bind off. Weave in ends.
Hope you guys enjoy! If you make one of your own, please post pics, I'd love to see! I'll post more later when I make others.
A distaff is an incredibly handy spinning tool. Around here, I have 3 cats, and fiber on my lap or on the couch is just too tempting to steal and destroy! The kitties also leave hair all over the place, and setting my fiber down not only leaves its own hairs everywhere, but tends to collect the hair of the cats too.
There are a few different types of distaffs, but my preference for the majority of my spinning, which is done on a hand spindle, is a wrist distaff. Here, I'm going to show you how to felt your own wrist distaff with left over wool from any scrap spinning or felting project.
What you'll need:
Wool scraps for felting - no superwash here! A bowl of hot soapy water A bowl of ice water A large empty bowl for squeezing off excess water Towel A few beads
Lay out your scrap wool in a thin, fluffy line, about 1 1/2 feet long. Longer is ok, but I wouldn't recommend going any shorter. I've layered a few different colors here, but you can do as many or as few colors as you'd like.
Begin wetting your strip of wool with the hot soapy water. Press the fibers down until they begin to compact, focusing more on the middle than the ends at first. Occasionally give the strip of wool a slight twist before continuing to press down, in order to help the fibers hold together for our next step.
Carefully lift the strip of wool by the ends, and dunk into the bowl of hot water, keeping the ends out. Lightly swish to make sure each fiber is in contact with the water. Lift out and squeeze extra soap and water into the large bowl.
Begin rolling the wool between your hands with a good amount of pressure. When all the moisture has been squeezed out and the wool is beginning to felt, dunk the strip into the cold water bowl in the same way as the hot soapy water bowl. Ring out excess water into the large bowl, and continue rolling in your hands. Alternate hot and cold water process until fiber begins to felt into a solid rope in the center.
It's time now to shape the distaff. Place the roped center area around the back of your hand, and create a loop below your wrist. Leave yourself plenty of room to slip your hand in and out of the loop, but don't make it so big that it's hard to keep the distaff on your hand.
Twist the unfelted ends together and begin to process as before, alternating dipping into hot water, rolling, dipping into cold water, and rolling. The ends will begin to felt into a point.
When your distaff is almost finished, wrap a small piece of unfelted wool around the join of the loop. Felt this in with the rest of the distaff as before. This will help the felted joint stay strong and not come apart with use over time.
Rinse your distaff very thoroughly to ensure there is no soap left in the fibers. At this point you have the option to either air dry, which can take a few days, or throw in the dryer. I threw mine in with a load of jeans to help any last bit of felting along.
Once dry, attach a few beads to the bottom of the distaff for weight. This will help keep the distaff from floating around, and will also help keep the fiber on the distaff. I used a hemalyke hoop and a couple of metal beads on mine.
To use, pull off a handful of fiber. Draft out a little, then wrap the drafted fiber from the beads to the loop. Either wrap the fiber over the back of your hand, or grasp it under your hand as I'm doing here.
By the way, here I am spinning on my new handmade bottom whorl spindle at the Renaissance Faire at Casa de Fruta, just outside of Gilroy, CA. We had a great time, and my husband is a great sport for taking me!
Hope you enjoy your new wrist distaff, and happy spinning!
Fruit salad anyone? I've currently been making citrus canes to slice up and embed in clear resin pendants, but I can see the worth of these canes in many different applications.
I've got five different citrus types here: lemon, lime, pink grapefruit, orange, and blood orange. There's also other variations that you could make work very nicely!
Materials: Translucent polymer clay White polymer clay Polymer clay in rind color Polymer clay in fruit pulp color Cutting blade Pasta roller or acrylic rolling tool Parchment paper
Let's get to it, shall we?
Begin by conditioning enough clay for six wedge-shaped sections in your fruit pulp color. Here I'm using a bright lemon yellow, and I've got four completed. Keep your fruit segments equal in height and width. If it helps to create a large circle first, cut into six wedges, and then soften the edges, feel free to do so.
Now that you've got your evenly-sized six fruit segments, we're going to create the membrane on the outside of the pulp. In this photo, I'm using translucent clay with the tiniest dab of white mixed in. Run through pasta machine on smallest setting, or roll out evenly into a thin layer with acrylic roller. Note that I'm only wrapping the internal V shape of the wedge. The external edge of the sections will get wrapped together at the end. Trim away the excess translucent clay from the edges of each wedge.
Roll out a small snake of white clay, approximately 1/4" in width. Cut the rounded edge of one end to make it blunt, then cut the snake to the length of the wedge. Arrange the wedges in a circle around the center white cylinder.
Squeeze six wedges and center white cylinder together until there is no air trapped between the pieces, then wrap with translucent clay rolled out on the second setting on your pasta machine, or to an even thickness of between 1/8" and 1/4" with your acrylic roller. Wrap translucent clay around lemon segments, then press out air bubbles. Trim overlapping clay, and any clay hanging over edges.
The final layer is the rind of the citrus. Here I'm making a blood orange cane, so my rind will be a deep reddish orange tone. Your rind should be at least as thick as your membrane layer that was just added, if not thicker. I often go with twice as thick a rind layer for definition as the cane is reduced.
It's time to begin reducing the cane. Keeping solid pressure toward your work surface and working from just outside the edge of the cane toward the center, start squeezing the cane evenly on all sides. Occasionally press straight into the work surface, and don't forget to work evenly around the edges of the cane to prevent distortion.
Once you have reduced the cane down about halfway, I tend to cut half the cane for later. You can always reduce a cane further later on, but once it's reduced, it is as large as it will be without distortion.
In this picture, using the pink grapefruit coloring, I have one end of the cane reduced to the final size and one end reduced to the size for storage.
Using a polymer clay cutting blade, slice thin pieces off your finished canes. Lay out on parchment paper and bake according to your polymer clay brand's manufacturer instructions.
Citrus slices are so cute, they can be embedded into resin, glued to scrapbook pages, added to jewelry pieces, or used as miniatures.
I hope you enjoy making these fresh little wonders. They even look like they would smell good! Thanks for looking!