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31  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: Where do I go from here? on: December 29, 2007 09:22:22 PM
I say jump in! If you can knit and purl, you can knit anything you set your mind to knit.
32  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: yarn weight confusion - help? on: December 28, 2007 01:44:00 PM
I'd try baby yarn, like Dale Baby Ull or something of similar weight. As long as you get 7.5 sts per inch like the pattern requires, you're good to go.
33  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Re: Sashiko Jacket - Christmas present for myself on: December 23, 2007 01:27:03 PM
That is stunning! Definitely something to be proud of.
34  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Re: Applejack Hats - why aren't there any patterns? on: December 23, 2007 01:25:39 PM
I didn't know they were called "applejack" hats either. 

That's a new one on me, too. I know them as newboy caps.

You're right, though, that are surprisingly few patterns for knitted ones (not a single free one that I know of, and only a couple in books).
35  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: Knitting machines - anyone here use one? on: December 20, 2007 12:54:36 AM
1) Is it really as easy as the ads say? I'm a pretty competent crafter (crochet, sew, knit a little, and lots and lots of other crafts) but the terms I see about knitting on a machine don't make sense to me. Will they when I get a machine and watch the video that comes with it?

No, it isn't as easy as they say - it'll take time and patience to learn how to use it. Bond in particular is really bad about making it seem like you'll have a completed sweater 10 minutes after taking the machine out of the box the first time. Very unlikely! Even if you pick things up quickly, there are a lot of things to learn about using the machine properly.

However, if you follow the manual and get help from folks in your area and/or online, you'll be fine and it'll make sense. A decent manual will start from the bottom up and teach you all you need to know, and if it doesn't, there are plenty of folks around who can pitch in.  Wink

2) Which machine would you recommend to a newbie for making sweaters?

That depends on what you want the machine to be able to do. That can really be divided up into two considerations: 1) thicknesses of yarn you'll be using, and 2) machine capabilities. Take a look at this article on machines and it'll explain some of their capabilities.

Yarn thickness: If you want to use mostly worsted weight yarns, you're probably going to want a mid-gauge (6.5-7 mm) or bulky-gauge (8-9 mm) machine. If you want to be able to use thinner yarns, from laceweight to sport, then you'll want a standard-gauge machine (4.5 mm).

Machine capabilities: The Bond machines (Incredible Sweater machine, etc.) can only do stockinette quickly. Everything else, including ribbing, has to be hand-manipulated while on the machine. In that case, knowing how to knit by hand would be an immense help. Other machines, such as the Japanese brands Brother, Silver Reed (aka Studio and Singer), and Toyota can do a lot without hand manipulation of stitches - stuff like ribbing, lace, and Fair Isle. Then there are Passap machines, which are Swiss, and the closest to industrial machines.

I would not recommend a Passap machine to a beginner because it's pretty complex, and to be quite honest, I wouldn't wish a Bond machine on my worst enemy. Granted, I know that there are some people with the patience of angels who can do amazing things with Bond machines (and I'm constantly in awe of them!), but I know more people who had horrible experiences with Bond machines than any other kind of machine.

Unless you want to lay out a LOT of money for a new machine (we're talking $600+ here), I would suggest looking for a used high-quality machine.

3) Any other advice you can think of?

If possible, visit a local machine-knitting guild or dealer to see machines in action before you buy yours.
36  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: Keri Russell Sundance Hat on: December 10, 2007 05:28:12 PM
That looks exactly like full needle rib in machine knitting. It will essentially look like stockinette's knit side on both sides (like double knitting), but it doesn't curl.
37  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: won yarn at auction, now what do I do with it? on: December 07, 2007 05:17:59 PM
Make the sleeves in a complementary color, maybe?
38  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: Knitting Machines!! What now?!? on: November 30, 2007 03:39:33 PM
A true fine gauge machine (3.6mm) does make very, very thin fabric but I haven't seen one in person so I'm not sure whether its fabric would look like T-shirt knit fabric or not. A standard-gauge machine (4.5mm) also makes fairly thin fabric (I've made lace on my standard-gauge machine that's cobweb-like).

I'm not sure, but I think a fine-gauge machine can do Fair Isle, tuck, slip, lace, knit-weaving, and whatever else a standard-gauge machine can do. In general, it's the mid-gauge and bulky-gauge machines that have fewer attachments and capabilities, actually.
39  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: What is this stitch? on: November 27, 2007 04:19:58 PM
That looks a bit like a Brioche type rib to me.  Just another thought.

Me, too. Like the one used in Malagaiter.
40  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: Help Needed with Top-down Hat...too many stitches on: November 26, 2007 10:00:46 AM
When you M1, are you knitting a stitch right after that in addition to the K1 called for? M1 should *just* be getting a new stitch.

For example, if you're at the beginning of a row and the pattern says "k2, m1, k1," you should have 4 stitches on the right needle after doing that, not 5.
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