Arrange the ruffles in rows that slightly overlap. Or instead of ruffles, use circular flounces. Either way the keys to a cascade effect are attaching the ruffles or flounces in a straight line, and close enough together to overlap, the edge of the upper ruffle covers the top of the lower ruffle.
To make a circular flounce, cut a large donut shape. Slice the donut open. Attach the inside edge of the donut to the fabric, the outside edge will flare out nicely. To make a longer flounce, sew several donuts together in a long strip. Arrange them so that the inside edges line up to make one long edge of the strip, and the other long edge of the strip is made of the outside edges of the donuts. The donuts are sewn together along the edge you made when you sliced them open. Hope that makes sense.
The easiest way to a cascade effect is to arrange the ruffles or flounces in ordinary horizontal rows. But, you can get really creative and attach flounces in vertical lines, or arrange the rows on a diagonal
Very pretty! It looks like the layers are columns (or up and down rows) of chiffon ruffles sewn onto an ordinary full skirt.
This is an easy look to recreate. The chiffon ruffles are just deep rectangles of fabric. One long edge of the rectangle is sewn to the skirt in an up and down pattern.
I suggest buying a yard or so of chiffon and a yard or so of satin or something similar for the underskirt. Cut the chiffon into wide rectangles. Finish one long edge of the rectangle with a lettuce hem, and pin or baste the other long edge to the satin fabric. Hold the satin up like a skirt, and see what you've got. Experiment with different depths of rectangles and different patterns of attaching them.
Or, if you have a lot of time, sewingpatterns.com has literally thousands of dress and skirt patterns. Look for one that attaches flounces to the outside of the skirt.
I don't think you were swindled. In store prices are often higher at small shops, sometimes it's jokingly called the "brick and mortar tax". If I understand correctly you paid ~$450, the online price is about ~$300, so that's $50 higher. For that $50 you are supposed to get free classes AND your old machine will repaired and returned to you? To me that sounds fair and reasonable.
Now, OTOH, if you paid $50 more to buy in store AND traded in your old machine, that doesn't sound as fair or reasonable.
The metal teeth won't be affected by the dye itself, but the hot water and chemicals used with the dye might.
Not every dye will work on every kind of fabric. First, figure out which dyes or paints will work with the fiber content of your jacket. Then, choose one that will allow you to use a technique that eliminates or minimizes the zippers exposure to potentially corrosive baths, like salt water.
For example, look for a dye or paint that can be applied with a spray bottle to dry, clean cloth. Wrap the zipper teeth in plastic and spray away.
If you decide to go with a dye that requires submerging the jacket in a hot bath, don't leave it in any longer than necessary.
Dharma Trading Company has tons of instructions and tutorials on their site. They carry all kinds of dye with complete descriptions about what to use on what fiber.
The simplest cloak is just a donut shape with a slit, in other words, a big circle with a smaller circle cut out of the center. Nicer hoods are slightly shaped, but for a quick and dirty Halloween costume that won't be worn again, you can get away with a simple rectangle shape.
It's personal preference, mostly. I don't like tight things around my waist, so I cut the elastic so it fits around me comfortably yet snug, then add 1 - 2 inches for overlap.
If a heavy garment isn't staying up you can try snugging the elastic a bit. But, if it needs to be super tight, you're better off replacing it with a thicker, stronger elastic, or adding a second piece of elastic through the casing.
Yes, this dye technique is called Salt Dying. You can use any kind of salt from water softener salt to sidewalk salt to kosher table salt. Just be sure the product you are using is real salt - non-salt ice-melt products won't work.
Choose a dye or paint that is compatible with salt dying. Fiber reactive dyes don't work well for this technique. Paints and inks like Dynaflow and Setasilk work well. Dilute them very lightly, so they are nice and thin, but use caution because adding too much water will wash out the color.
Someone already posted the link to Dharma Trading Co, their products are great and their website is very informative with lots of tutorials. Prochemical.com is also a good source.
It depends on the project and how badly it's botched. Some go into a laundry basket hidden at the bottom of the closet in the sewing room. Some are transformed or torn apart. Others I just mess with until it's fixed and wearable, or so messed up it's no longer salvageable.
Sometimes botched projects have a happy ending. I recently botched a tunic. Tried to fix it, and messed that up, too. I ended up with the center front hem rising up nearly 4 " higher than the sides and back. A friend spotted it on my dining room table, picked it up, and commented on how clever the shaped hem was! I didn't tell her it was a total accident. I've gotten many compliments on this top, including the "shaped hem"!!