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1  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Pottery, Ceramics, etc: Discussion and Questions / Re: cutting and shaping ceramics -- old plates on: October 17, 2012 05:00:27 PM
make a fist, with your tumb on top.

if you were holding a dremmel, the cutting wheel would be paralell to the loop your thumb and forfinger make. 

If you used a power drill, the drill would look like a gun, where it comes up from your fist, then makes a hard 90 degree turn to come forward over your index finger.

either way, the tool simply spins the bit/mandrell.   
2  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Pottery, Ceramics, etc: Discussion and Questions / Re: cutting and shaping ceramics -- old plates on: October 17, 2012 04:53:10 PM
http://www.intertoolsonline.co.uk/prod.php?prod=2269
this is a photo of a "chuck"

Any photo of a dremmel bit should show you how the base of the mandrell is clasped in the chuck.  The round linear shaft of your cutting/sanding attachement (mandrell) is placed in the middle of these clasps- which are collectively called a "chuck".  If it were a power drill the chuck tightens and loosens much more than a dremmel.  On a dremmel tool, the chuck is much smaller, and only holds mandrells of this approximate width.   Whatever head is on the mandrell( be it a sanding wheel a grinding wheel or an etching head) spins around, same thing like a drill bit in a traditional chuck of a power drill.  The only real difference is that a dremmel/multitool had a grip that is paralell to the mandrell, whre a power drill has a handle that is perpendicular.   
3  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Pottery, Ceramics, etc: Discussion and Questions / Re: cutting and shaping ceramics -- old plates on: October 17, 2012 04:41:23 PM
I have photos but I cant attach becasue i dont have enough posts...
4  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Pottery, Ceramics, etc: Discussion and Questions / Re: cutting and shaping ceramics -- old plates on: October 17, 2012 04:39:03 PM
A dremmel and a multi-tool are basically the same thing.  And they are both very similar to a power drill in process, but different in handle.  there is a "chuck" at the front which is wraped around three clasping pieces that are brought together or apart depending on if you spin the chuck lefty loosy or righty tighty to hold the spindle of your your grinding,/sanding/cutting/drilling tool. They are round on the oustide, and as you tighten the chuck- which is like a collar around them, the three holders come clooser or farther apart to grasp a smaller or larger mandrell that your cutting/sanding/grinding wheel is attached to.  Once in position they spin around.  There are attachments that will flush cut grout or wood, but thats more extensive than you need to know.
Dremmel is a brand name  for milti-tool.  Like q-tip is a brand name for a cotton swab.  All it is is a spinning clasp that will hold various cutting/grinding/cleaning wheels. 

You can cut/grind  plates into chips etc, but expect a lot of chipping, and I am not sure how you will finish the ends so they are not rough cut.  I hope this helps.

5  CLOTHING / Costumes: Discussion and Questions / Re: Daft Punk/Vintage Swimmer on: October 17, 2012 02:02:08 PM
Are you trying to avoid the zippper? I dont think you can do a body suit that's close on hips, waist, bust and that close to neck without some type of acess.  with that high neckline i dont think you will find a faric that can stretch far enough to fit shoulders and hips through it.  at least not my hips, lol.  you have a pettern with zip, then do it.   
If you want to cheat, go to the party supply store and buy one of those full body suits- they are relatively inexpensive.  put it on inside out, chalk desired end lines for sleves, neck and legs.  Take it off, mark for 5/8 seam allowance and stitch with a stretch stitch?  I've never tried that, but Im brainstorming.
 
6  CLOTHING / Costumes: Discussion and Questions / Re: making a corset with light stretch fabric, how to stabilize? on: October 17, 2012 01:49:11 PM
Thank you both for the replies! I appreciate it.  It really is helpful to know someone tired it and it worked poorly,

I really didn't want to sew two, so With your valuable help, and that this will probably be a one time wear for Halloweenen- I decided to do interfacing, but to solve the issues you brought to my mind...

there are so many seam overlaps from each gusset and dart that I'm tucking the stabilizer under the allowances on the wrong side, pressing the seam allowances over it, then top stitching with a stretch stitch to keep everything together. 
I sewed all the fabric pieces together, but didn't finish the hems on top/ bottom.  I pressed all the allowances in the direction they needed to go, laid the cut interfacing (cut the actual pieces without seam allowances by tracing from the half-finished corset). I ironed it on, folded the seam allowances back over the interfacing and stretch stitched the allowances flat over the edges of the interfacing.  pattern calls for top stitch either way.   I took a photo, but I'm not allowed to post one until I'participated more on the forum, which I certainly intend to do!

wen I actually do a real corset for regular wear I'll just use the right fabric. I'm looking at this as practice try. 
7  CLOTHING / Costumes: Discussion and Questions / Re: A corset fit for a drag queen! on: October 16, 2012 07:54:03 AM
Maybe you should rethink the length of the corset, have it end higher.  then you could make a balloon style apron for the skirt?  sew in some tulle or crinoline to the waist band to give the apron fullness in the hip area?

If your heart is set on a longer length corset, you can't make the waist smaller so you will have to make the hips bigger.  Build in some hips. Make your hip gussets bigger and maybe add some shoulder pads to each side seam at the hip?
8  CLOTHING / Costumes: Discussion and Questions / making a corset with light stretch fabric, how to stabalize? on: October 16, 2012 07:47:48 AM
So I am making a corset, and the fabric that I needed to use was selected for color and pattern, but its too flimsy to work on its own.  I am not sure what to do about it.  Can I just use an iron on iterfacing to give it more stability? Do I then have to line it?

The pattern is a total PITA with four front gussets, two front darts, and four hip gussets, so I am trying to avoid having to sew it twice (to line with a sturdier fabric- ) or three times- for interfacing and lining. 

Can I use an iron on interfacing without lining it?

I was thinking of just cutting out iron on interfacing in the final shapes (in other words -without seam allowances except for an overlap at the sides to reinforce that seam).  iron onto the finished corset pieces then top stitch on both sides of the original seams to make sure it all holds together?     

How would you do it?
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