convertible/infinity dress FAQ's:

http://www.rostitchery.com/convertible-dress-faqs.html

the waistband creates a finished edge on the part of the skirt that is not covered by the straps and provides a channel into which you can insert elastic if needed.  i don't cut it until i get back to the beginning of the seam because it is simpler than calculating the amount needed based on the stretch of the fabric (because the stretch has to be calculated on percentages).

a pegged skirt has a hem circumference that is smaller than the hip circumference, in this case it is smaller than the waist circumference (we know this because the hem gets pulled up, under the dress, to create the balloon so it has to be able to fit the waist).

greetings all!  long time, no post.  i was invited to this thread to comment on the lemuria dress.

this is a long sleeved, yoked dress with a pegged hem (probably not elasticized but possibly--i think the fabric takes care of it without elastic).  there are two slits in the middle of the dress, you can clearly seem them at 1:30 in the video that eggdress linked.  at 1:35 the model holds the dress up full length so you can see approximately how long it should be in relation to the body--on this model it is dragging the ground with the neckline at her chin.  at 1:48 you can see how narrow the hem is.

this website shows clear images of the front and back, showing the yoke seams:
http://www.yoox.com/item/YOOX/LEMURIA/dept/women/tskay/3FD17CD7/rr/1/cod10/341199441S/sts/sr_women80

the description says cotton jersey, which is what most ordinary t-shirts are made of.

i don't have time to make a demo of this dress but i hope this information helps.

I FIGURED IT OUT!!!

last night when i was cleaning up from making a tray of soap, i was peeling the dried soap off the spatula and then it hit me:  what i had to do was pour the soap on something then pour it off, leaving a thin layer.

so i poured some on my flexible cutting mat, poured the excess back into the bowl, and then let the stuff on the mat cool and harden.

IT WORKED!!!  i got a very thin leaf of soap that just peeled off the mat.  i tore it into little pieces to use as confetti in the bath today but next time i'll use a pizza cutter to make more even sizes.

the only problem was that my mat is not smooth--it has grooves from cutting because it is old--so i'm going to the dollar store to get another one just for making soap leaves.

thank you so much for helping me work this out!  i'll post pictures when i get a fresh batch done.

thank you both for your replies!

i am going to experiment some more and i'll report back how it goes. 

the reason i want to make them is that i discovered my child would wash her hands much more thoroughly when using the soap leaves--they melt and cling to her hand and she has to really rub them well to get the soap off!  but it is kind of expensive to buy crabtree and evelyn for a four year old. 

greetings all, i have never posted in this forum, and i am a beginner at making soap.  the only soap i've made so far is melt and pour but i'm open to learning about other methods.

what i'd like to make is soap leaves--not leaves as in the things that grow on trees--but rather they are like pieces of paper that are made of soap.

like this:
http://store.crabtree-evelyn.com/ros483037.html

so my questions are:

is this possible with melt and pour?  if not, which process is probably best for this?

if it is possible with melt and pour, how would i go about it?

i did try once pouring a thin layer of soap on a flexible mat and then cutting that, but it wasn't thin enough.

thank you for any help!

well, my sincere apologies to all of you who have waited so patiently for the new tutorial, i am still behind.     hopefully the heat will let up this weekend and i can get back to it, but for now, i have two broken rafters and a non-functioning air conditioner to take care of.  please bear with me, i promise you won't be disappointed when it is finally done.

vinotinto, i thought of something else in the middle of the night (which is when i am most brilliant):  i think you might be forgetting to add functional ease--the usual amount for a top like this is 1" more around your bust then your true measurement--0.5"-1" more around the waist--and 2" around the hips.  this small adjustment will take care of 90% of the problem you were concerned about.  the rest, i believe, is just shaping the pieces.

aaaaah, i'm just now seeing this!!!  (been off the board for a few days).  it looks great! 

here is my opinion on the belt:  if you just edge it with a different color, the part that is still the fabric of the top will still blend in, and the edging will just look like horizontal stripes.

if you want it to stand out, my vote would be to make another top in a fabric that coordinates with this top, make a belt out of the same coordinating fabric, then swap out the belts.