I CANNOT for the life of me get this photo to display in the right orientation! It's hanging from the top of a mirror. I was trying to give an idea of it's drape
I'm nervous about sewing a garment with double-faced/double-sided wool. I bought this lovely piece in Edinburgh a year and a half ago and I don't want it to become perpetural stash. Besides - my husband kindly carried it home in his bag because it was heavy - He'd like to know it was worth it! And I'm working to keep less fabric in my inventory, especially the higher quality stuff I get nervous about sewing.
(Wool History/Travel Note at bottom of posting)
I plan to make the long jacket (not the coat),
like the one on this pattern - originally McCalls M5064 - which is both out of print AND very unavailable on the web
as far as I can tell
My wool is thick and heavy - because it is two sided. I thought I would try this pattern - which is very, very out of print. In fact I no longer have the pattern envelope
. I tried to find another copy of the pattern for sale
, but could only find photo of it on the web. I would be glad to buy another copy just for the envelope, and because when
I alter patterns, even though I trace them onto medical supply paper, it's still good to have a backup. But doesn't look like I can do that.
So I cannot look at the list of suggested fabrics
, and see if the pattern designers recommend double faced wool.
I can hang the material over things (like the mirror in my wardrobe) and look at the drape. I hung it over me, and can't get the photo to show right in this posting either.
I can use only the outer garment pieces, and not cut facings
I think this shawl collar pattern might work well. The brown inside facing will show when the collar rolls back (or I could cut it with a separate collar piece and join the two, but I don't think the contrast will look nice, and I can avoid sewing and cutting mistakes)
I will make a muslin
to get the fit right for me, but a muslin will not
really tell me much about how the wool will drape.
I always have to alter the placement of the shoulder seam. There is no shoulder seam here, but the sleeve is in two pieces. I will likely have to alter
that for a good fit.Closures
: Oh, also I plan to find some attractive closing hooks because though the model version does not close in front, I want to do that. I will try for two or three hooks.
I don't think buttons would work
for this style. If I were going to make them, I'd do them by hand with some kind of wool thread.
1) Do you think double faced wool would work well for this pattern?
Will the full swing of the jacket work?
2) What other things might you make sure to do when altering the pattern and making a muslin
for this project?
3) Given the no facings
, what would you do with raw edge
? I was going to experiment with the blanket stich on my machine
. I use that a lot as a decorative stitch for cottons. I'm sure I will need to fool with the presser foot, needle, and thread, etc. Maybe I'd have to do a hand blanket stitch, but sheesh, this is why we have machines!
... Also would you ALSO stay stich next to the raw edge?
4) Any general tips on sewing with heavy wools?
I'm sure I need to get some good heavy duty needles
and yes I will use a new needle
- and keep a spare on hand.
5) What have I not thought about?
History Note: The wool is English not Scottish - The Scottish would have been keen but it was a third more expensive. The English wool was not cheap, nor should it be.
BTW we stayed on a sheep farm for one night while on a multi-day walk/triek/hike in Beatrix Potter country on the same trip. The sheep farmer
explained to me they no longer sell the wool from their sheep because the costs are much greater than what they get for it. They
actually burn the wool after shearing. Isn't that sad? My understanding is that you shear sheep to keep them healthy/comfortable.
The wool I bought came from a project in the U.K., the goal of which, is to encourage sheep farmers to keep some farms still producing and selling wool. I do not know where I have a note on the name of that project, I'm sorry to say.
I wish I'd noted all the steps involved in getting the fleeces ready for the market once the sheep are sheared. There are many of them.