The thread is alive!
I've been working on this jacket on and off for the last half year, and all your discussions and ideas have been very helpful for me (i couldn't for the life of me figure out the right sleeve, and was rather puzzled by the basque dos).
What i have decided is that the Union-Jack version is sewn differently than the runway version, at least where the basque dos is concerned. I did the "gather to 6 cm" as noted on the pattern and the notches and all line up perfectly. It does give it a "duck-tail", but that fits perfectly with the dress i'm making to go along with it.
As for sizing, i took the brute force approach and printed it out 15% larger (though only after having done a mock-up in the original size). I then made a second mock-up with the larger pattern which fits well (if i had any experience at modifying patterns, and a month or two more time, i'd attempt some changes, but i'm on a deadline).
I'm working with a heavy black satin fabric (except for the right sleeve, where i'm using lighter/less stiff satin), and have replaced most of the grosgrain with a silver brocade ribbon. And i've decided to go for buttons instead of snaps, which is probably insane. And like Tamserine i'm lacing up the left sleeve instead of using a zipper. Like others i'm using straps and buckles instead of elastic for the bits between 2 and 6.
Thanks also to Pso for that picture of the runway version, that's the best picture of it i've seen yet. I'll watch Tamserine's video in a moment.
And yeah i'm on a deadline, i hope to be able to show finished pics here in a week.