I'm having complete brain block here. What can I knit with one skein of lovely mohair?
I don't want to buy additional yarn, so I started making a really airy shawl, on huge needles, but I didn't really like it much. I tired a pattern, but it got lost in all that fuzz...would a lace pattern work well?
It's so conservative a scarf it took me over a year to knit it and I am not an especially slow knitter. I just couldn't stand doing it. There were burrs or something in this yarn and it kept giving me slivers and the seed stitch for that much scarf was unbearable. I think I've sworn off seed stitch forever.
The scarf is a wool-silk blend tube scarf, about 10 inches wide and done in seed stitch. It's beige (that's right, BEIGE) and has two wide black (yep, BLACK) stripes on either end, within the beige body of the scarf. It's a nice scarf, just extremely boring. (I did not pick the colors.)
He wants to wear it with an overcoat, so I was thinking a short black fringe on the ends. Maybe just a couple of inches long. Otherwise, I could just leave it PLAIN and stitch up the ends.
Does anybody have any other creative but conservative options for me?
I'm trying to make a large felted square pad that's about 30" x 30" for a Christmas gift. I'll be using doubled lamb's pride bulky with really big needles (like a 19 or something like that) and edging it with i-cord around the edges. I'm trying to figure out how big the pre-felted measurment should be. I will knit a swatch and just figure out the multiples to get to the pre-felted measurements, but I don't know what the pre-felted measurements should be. I tried to do a swatch when I made this last year, but on the bigger piece, it came out differently.
I've heard that the pre-felted measurements should be about 1.5 times the finished, but whenever I've done this, I think that the rows shrink more (i.e., vertically) than the stitches across (i.e., horizontally), but I'm not sure I'm remembering correctly. Really, I should just write this stuff down...but I never do.
It's for a jumper saddle pad, so it really needs to fit sort of close to the 30" by 30" measurements. I made one last year and it was great, but I had to do a lot of creative blocking to get the thing to get closer to the measurements. (It's been used on dozens of horses and worn well, so at least I know it's sturdy. It took about 12 skeins of bulky, took three days to dry completely, and was about 3/4 of an inch thick.)
I know this is a completely idiotic question, but when knitting gloves and they say, "now just make one the opposite way for the other hand" what exactly do they mean?
Does that mean that on the needles for the front of the glove, the thumb gusset just starts off on the first few stitches of the needle instead of, say, the last few stitches? I think if I just get that thumb gusset started right, the other stuff will follow along nicely, but I'm having a block on that thumb gusset.
I've knit one of the Broad Street Mitten/Gloves from www.knitty.com and I'd love to have a pair.
...I guess I'm just having some difficulty visualizing this.
I need help finishing my first non-fuzzy feet sock...I understand the kitchener stitch, but I just need to clarify something. When I graft the toe, is the right side of my work supposed to be out? This is the way the toe looks best finished. It seems odd but the "seam" which is mostly invisible (but you can still see it) is on the inside. Also, if you can "see" the seam, does it mean I'm not doing this correctly? I mean really, it's only about 8 stitches long...can't I just knit the two edges together and then bind them all off?
Thanks for all your wonderful help, this is a truly awesome site.
As I sit here finishing (and cursing) the whole process of weaving in the ends of yarn after completing a sweater...
I wonder if there's some magical way to do this so that it doesn't seem like such a chore. The ends never seem to disappear into the work and I can always pick them out when I look really closely...maybe I'm just overcritical?
I've looked through the internet, but there aren't any great lessons to be learned there on end-weaving.
I am convinced that someone here will have amazing words of wisdom!
Okay, this might seem like a complete knitting idiot question, but I've been on a fuzzy feet kick (I'm on my third pair now ) and on one side of the sock the decrease is a k2tog and on the other side it is a ssk. (I think I don't know what a ssk is...maybe this is the problem.) Why couldn't you just k2tog (or ssk, if that's preferable) on both sides...isn't the result essentially the same? The fuzzy feet haven't fallen apart...yet...but I want to move onto regular unfelted socks with cute intarsia patterns, so I probably ought to get this straightened out.
Would this make more sense if I didn't knit continental method?
First, this is an amazing site! I'm so addicted to it now...I can feel myself going broke with all the projects I want to do.
I'm looking for a pattern or instructions on how to make the huge tassle/pompom on a scarf (instead of using fringe). I've seen the finished scarves around, but they seem to be commercially made. It's a single tassle/pompom that incorporates the whole width of the scarf and looks really neat.