Forgive me, I'm still new to quilting. I love the idea of quilting, and how beautiful some quilts are. I'm just not ready to go into fancy quilting yet, so here is my version.
All my adult life, I've wanted to have things match. I'm not very color coordinated when it comes to matching decor. I recently have gotten an Accuquilt Go! Baby and the 3" finished square die to attempt to make a quilt for my son based off a knitting pattern, but wanted something to try out the cutting and making a "quilt". We also had a need of a new door for the bathroom, since one of the dogs chewed up the original door.
When I sewed the blocks, I just used a regular foot, so I didn't have consistant seams. That's why they don't looked lined up like they should.
This curtain is on my kitchen window. By this time, I found a foot for my machine that is for piecing blocks together. Can't believe how much of a difference a new foot makes. I also used the new foot to quilt the curtain.
Be honest, how does my efforts look? I know I should get a walking foot to make quilting easier. And I am planning on using this style for all my curtains.
ok, I'm a curvaceous gal. I just recently bought this pattern ([url]http://www.sewinglingerie.com/patterns/front-closing-sport-bra.html/url] ) from Lingerie Secrets. Now it has raised a whole host of questions for me.
By my measurements, and what I found online, I'm suppose to be a 50F/50FF. I've always been able to wear a C cup, but the bras I usually buy off the rack, while they fit for the cup size, the band size is usually too small. I am about to use the above pattern to make my own bras. How can I be a 50F when C has always fit? By the way, my measurements were 50 band, 56 around bust.
Also, wondering if this would work. Instead of the hooks that are normally used to close a bra, can't I use snaps instead? Would be nicer when laundering as the hooks won't get caught in the washer or dryer and tear apart.
Forgive me for not posting in a while-- a lot has happened around here. So much so that I had to give up making my own soap for a while. But telling you my sob-stories isn't what I'm asking about.
I found this site for Bulk Apothecary http://www.bulkapothecary.com/categories/unscented-bases.html and have decided to order some of their unscented bases. In some of the comments, people were saying that they thinned it down too much and have added salt to thicken it again. If this is possible, what ratio of salt to liquid soap should I use, and can it help extend the use of the soap.
Think of it in this terms, using their site. I buy the gallon size of the shampoo base. Then I take that gallon, thin it down to 2 gallons and add my EOs. How much salt (or salt solution) should I add to thicken it?
I hope someone out there can help me. Just last week I lost my sister-in-law. Unfortunately she was the victim of a murder/suicide. Several years ago she made my kids some blankets. The kids were so attached to her that now they don't want to use the blankets. I don't blame them. Now I want to make them new ones that they can use, so we can preserve the ones their aunt made for them. The only problem I have is that I can't figure out the pattern, so I can't just sit down and copy it.
The following pictures show what one of the blankets look like, with a closeup on the stitches. Please help!!!
Forgive me, have been busy working on my shampoo tute that I want to post for everyone to try, and also getting ready to make some bars for shipping for Christmas presents. On some of them, when I first made them, I left out all EOs mainly because of the expense, and not sure what I would like to have them smell like. I also want to play with colors too. The ones I'm sending out to everyone is my shaving soap, shampoo bar, coffee scrub bar, and a new one I wanna try is a bug bar.
I know the coffee scrub will naturally be dark, and scented with coffee. I'm working on how much EO to put in my bug bar. Shampoo bar might have tea tree and/or lavender in it and colored blue. The shaving soap has me a little bugged. I hated the nasty grey color it came out with when I made the first batch (still works, just don't like the color), so going to try to tint it red. Was going to put EO in it as well, but looking over what I have, would Peppermint or Eucalyptis be to strong or harmful for shaving soap? I don't know if the strong odors would affect people, or would it sting in any razor cuts (though since making my own shaving soap, don't have the problems of nicks anymore). The people that are receiving these soaps are men and women of all ages and backgrounds, and in different parts of the US.
Can you give me any input into this, those that know more about EOs than I do?
I know I haven't posted anything finished, just haven't felt I had anything worth sharing. But I might have something this time.
Liquid shampoo recipes I'm still not sure of what or how I should be making them. But I did find a basic shampoo bar that I was willing to try. So, without further ado~~ here's what my shampoo bars look like:
Haven't used them yet, but planning on trying them tonight when I take my shower. Sorry it looks so washed out, but the flash on my camera had a bad reaction to the white countertop.
Now onto the shaving part. I remember as a child my father using shaving soap all the time to shave with. But as I was growing up, I personally used canned shaving cream. Now my two youngest children need to shave. My son for his face, and my daughter for her legs and pits. I can buy the cans at the dollar store and by the time I need to use them, my kids have them empty. And I'm not going to ask what they are shaving as long as the animals are left alone. I wanted a cheaper alternative to those cans so I found a recipe and made this:
I do have a question though; when using Bentontite clay (however it's spelled) is there a trick to keep the soap from turning this nasty grey color? The recipe I had recommened either putting it in with the oils as they were melting (which I did) or when mixing the lye/water solution. Is there another way?
I know it's a funny thing to ask, but I've been having problems lately. I've made some liquid soap that I wanted to use, but the first time I put it in my hair, I ended up with a greasy, waxy ball of gunk on the back of my head. I'm pretty sure this "ball" is just the crap from the commercial stuff that's trying to get out of my hair, but it looks horrible when I need to go out and about.
Sitting here, my kids and I decided to move to Oregon (my old stomping grounds) next summer. I love the area, love the temps, love the rain. Moving isn't such a joy, but circumstances are forcing us to move.
When I started my soap-making journey, this was never a consideration, but now I'm wondering, am I going to have problems with bars to set up right? Is my liquid soap not going to thicken right? The recipes I'm developing right now are more for this area ( SE Idaho). Or am I worrying about something that doesn't exist?
Also on that note, what would be the best way to transport the KOH and Na OH that I already have?
I know I just started my journey into making bars of soap, but most of the family doesn't like bars. Found a book at the library about making liquid soap. So I got excited and ordered some of the lye it asked for to make it.
Now in the book, there are several "recipes" for different soaps. One of them is the Castile soap. Now I'm jumping for joy!! I've seen recipes online for using this in anything from bathing, to cleaning dishes (including the dishwasher) to laundry, and even in a spray bottle for general cleaning. But most of the recipes say to dilute the liquid castile if it's concentrated How would I figure out the concentration if I'm making my own?
By the way, if anyone is interested in the book I'm using it's "Making Natural Liquid Soaps" by Catherine Failor. The recipes I'm planning on making almost back to back are: 100% Castile Soap Shampoo, Sudsy Fun Shampoo, Basic Shampoo, and Basic Shower Gel. The last two I'm still on the fence about, but figured if I do the basic ones, then we can add EO to them for a personalized flavor to the bath. The first two are the ones I want to make for general cleaning, laundry and dishes/dishwasher.
Been lurking for a while, and I must say, you all have such a wealth of information, I keep going to bed with a headache from trying to assimlate everything. I've just started my adventure into soap making, already done my first 2 batches of CP soap, and they have turned out great, except for the shapes. Did the first lip balm last night, homemade deoderant is being tested by my son right now, and this weekend will be trying my hand in making lotion. Now here comes the questions:
1) I'm working with a friend to make a soap mold or 2. Have 1x6 boards ready to cut, but was wondering how long to make them? If they are 15 inches long, how many pounds of soap will it hold? Or is there some calculator online that I haven't found yet that will translate length and depth into pounds for me?
2) Around here, money is tight, so I ended up weighing the cost of a stick blender ($30 here) to a paint mixer ($4). Since I already had the drill, went with the mixer option. If anyone is interested, I'm willing to share my experience on using that tool for everyone.
3) Getting FO and EO. Again, cost is killing me on these, though I'm trying to buy them one at a time (around $10 for a 1/2 oz)~~ going to try online. I did get some LorAnns for the lip balm, but couldn't get them to mix in with the lip balm, so wondering what I did wrong. The bottles I got do say "oil" on them.
I'm not really planning on selling anything I make just yet, not until I get some recipes that I really like and work well with all the testers that I have here (gotta love family members that also double as lab rats). I'll get the selling part taken care of when I get my other business started.
Sorry for the long post, but these questions keep popping up as I research for my needs and for the needs of my family. Google just can't answer these for me.