Turns out the reason why they don't sell special printable fabric for laser printers is because the printable fabric will ruin a laser printer. :/
I'm too scared to try the make it myself with wax paper version, because we only have one printer. If I broke it with wax, I'd have a very angry fiancee.
And since the more I thought about it, the more I wanted something iron-on, I went ahead and bought the special fabric from the store. It's kind of expensive, but the tags will be very small, so the price should balance out a little.
I think I know the pattern you're talking about (did I answer another question about that here, maybe from you? I can't find any of my posts ).
I asked the same question on Ravelry as well, since I wasn't getting any responses here. I was thinking of essentially doing a short row heel, crocheting the bottom of the foot, short row toe, and then each row of the top of the foot I would join to the bottom of the foot. However, I finally was able to figure out how to make her socks fit right making them toe up, so I didn't need it anyways.
Oh goodness, I'd never put the skeins in the machine. I decided to handwash the sweaters before unraveling, as machine washing them would be expensive ($1.25/load, and only three to go in that load). The smell of the wool sweater wet totally threw me off. I washed it twice thinking that it didn't get enough soap the first time. Then I looked it up and discovered it's probably just because it smells like wet sheep, and I couldn't recognize the smell. >.<
I may wash the skeins after unraveling, depending on the level of crimp. It seems like most people who advocate washing after unraveling are concerned with the crimp of the yarn. I'm not terribly picky, though, as I have a bunch of yarn that I practice with that is really crimpy but works up well enough for my taste.
I just finished skeining all the yarn from my first sweater unraveling and I have a few questions. Do I need to wash the yarn afterwards? Or does it depend on the fiber content? The one I just finished is 100% cotton and was washed before being unraveled, although I'm not sure how recently. However, I have a few other sweaters in the waiting that aren't machine washable (silk, merino wool, and a blend). Some of them were from a thrift store, so the yarn should probably be washed at some point, but I'm not sure when.
So, I made those awesome socks by modifying the Turkish Origami sock pattern. I tried making a pair of socks for OH using a toe-up method and so far they're completely too big. So I was wondering if there was a way to use the Turkish Origami pattern since it's easier to do with measurements, but instead of seaming it up afterwards, seam it as it's worked. Like, after making the bottom of the foot, when doing the top of the foot, use a slip stitch or something to attach it to the bottom as I work. That way there's no whip stitch and there are less ends to work in. Is that possible or am I absolutely crazy?
I don't know how to fix them formally, but my general fix for tops that are too big is to add a ribbon to it somewhere. I had one top where the collar was too loose, so I put a ribbon in the collar that I would pull tight and tie in a bow. This fixed the fit as well as adding some more charm to it. However, this only works where it's too big, not too small.
They are beautiful - both the stitch patterns and the colors. And that's cool that they stretch (or at least part of them does) - that's the only issue I've had with the ones I've made. In fact, I'm remaking a pair I did for my mother because I had trouble getting them on her feet - she's 93 and in a wheelchair and I was worried the tightness would be bad for her circulation (I've added more stitches to compensate this time around). I think I'll have to look into that crunch stitch... it does sound familiar, it may be in one of my pattern books.
I've only ever made one pair of socks flat and they were knitted. Were the seams hard to get to lie flat?
You did a great job with these. I'm looking forward to seeing pics of the purple alpaca ones
There are other versions of the crunch stitch, I have recently learned. The one used here is with single and double crochet stitches. I'm actually trying a pair in the round now, but the main foot portion will be with the crunch stitch worked back and forth, turning each round.
I was afraid the stitching wouldn't be all that comfortable, as some of the spots ended up kinda bulky after going back over the seam, but everything flattens out and fits wonderfully on my feet. The whip stitch (at least I think I did a whip stitch) allows the top and bottom to move just enough in the seam to lie flat, edge to edge.
I'm lucky enough that my fabric is in clear bins, but I also keep them all organized by fabric type. I still have a small stash (only 5 of the totes like LoriS uses), but since I do projects by fabric type first, it makes things easier. Think about what your first criteria is for a fabric choice. If you start most projects with, "this should be a specific color, but I'm not sure what kind of material I want to use," organizing everything by color might work better. I also have labels on all the bins (the sticky ones like from Avery label makers) so I never forget what's in them. I have a separate cardboard box full of scraps, and that's all that goes in it.
Within my totes, I also have some fabric in ziplocs. For example, I have one bin devoted to cottons, but I inherited a bunch of small cuts of Christmas themed quilting cotton. They all got folded up and stuck into a one gallon ziploc bag or two and labelled with permanent marker. I have a few other bags in the same bin with fabrics of various themes and for various projects. They're easy to grab out of the tote because I keep them right on top. (I tend to organize with biggest cuts on the bottom and smallest cuts on the top of the tote.)
And all of my fabric (other than scraps) goes in FOLDED. Now, I'm fond of the rolling it up idea, but folding was easier for me. And I tell myself that if I pull it out, I have to fold it back up and put it back neatly. So far, so good!
Personally, I'm hoping that I'll eventually be able to switch to more of a drawer system. I totally agree that hauling those totes out in a small space is a serious pain. I've got a bunch of other craft supplies in drawers that are much too small for the fabric stash, and I definitely appreciate the ease.