In stockinette stitch you have to remember that knitting and purling mean going in different directions. On the right front when you knit you are travelling from the center to the side, on the left front knitting means going from the side seam to the center. Purling goes the opposite direction. Since the shoulder shaping starts at the end of a row near the side seam it is worked on the knit rows for the right front side and the purl rows for the left front. That means you end up with something like this:
Left side Row 1: K row Row 2: P until last 4 stitches of row, BO remaining 4 stitches Row 3: K row Row 4: P until last 6 stitches of row, P2tog, BO remaining 4 stitches
If you look at the pattern for the back of the sweater it probably has you binding off on both knit rows and purl rows for the left and right shoulders, respectively. Notice it's the opposite because the right shoulder means the left side of the back piece. You might end up with one side of the sweater being one row longer than the other, but it usually isn't enough of a difference to be noticeable.
On the right side of the machine (under the manual wheel) is a little spindle that the empty bobbin goes on. Putting the bobbin on depresses a little switch and automatically shifts the machine into bobbin-winding mode. Thread the machine (except the needle), flip out the little thread guide in front of the bobbin winder and pass the thread through that, then wind it around the bobbin a few times. Turn the machine on and press down on the pedal, it should start winding like mad.
For buttonholes: Position the stitch selector over the 1 on the little buttonhole image. Also set the stitch length to the little picture of a buttonhole. Stitch forward to work the left side of the buttonhole. Stop, move the selector to number 2 and work the far end of the buttonhole. Move the selector to number 3 and it'll automatically work backwards to make the right side of the buttonhole. Move the selector to number 4 (the same as number 2) and work the near end of the buttonhole. At no point should you need to move the needle or turn the fabric.
I had a neat little cook book as a child about a brother and sister; it would have little stories about them that would accompany the recipes (i.e. "it snowed today, so Jane made hot chocolate" followed by a recipe for hot chocolate). What I liked best was a recipe for watermelon slush. Basically you cut up watermelon, blended it, possibly with some honey, then put it in a pan in the freezer and stirred it every fifteen minutes until you got something like an icy sorbet (granita?). At least that's what I remember from fifteen years ago.l
Does anyone else remember this book? Failing that, does anyone have a recipe that sounds similar? It's getting to be watermelon season around here and I'm feeling nostalgic.
Mine doesn't have a bobbin case, just a series of spaces in the base where bobbins are supposed to fit. It's pretty useless, however, as the bobbins always fall out all over. You'd be best off just buying a plastic case at a fabric store, they're just a couple bucks if I remember correctly.
I'll look around for my user's manual; I think I still have it somewhere. Ask away!
If you haven't worked from charts before here are a few ideas:
1. Xerox the dictionary of symbols from the front of the book so it's readily accessible. Better yet, copy the symbols just you'll need and their meaning onto the chart. 2. Cross of rows after you've completed them with arrows indicating the direction you knitted. 3. Make a sample out of cotton yarn. That way you can practice and you'll have made a nifty little dishcloth too. I hate letting knitting go to waste!
Hope this helps. If all else fails you can always translate the chart into text such as one finds in commercial patterns, but boy would that take forever.