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41  Utterly butterfly hat in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by elderflower on: December 08, 2012 09:41:17 AM
Our Needlecraft Guild Christmas lunch is on Thursday and we all have to wear a hat we have embellished. 



I didn't actually have any suitable hats. I have floppy hats and woolly hats, none of which look very nice, and no amount of embellishment is going to make them so.  I do have a broad-brimmed straw hat, but I'd be liable to put my neighbour's eye out with it if I wore it at a dinner table.  So I made this one using  an old hat pattern that belonged to my Mum (Butterick 3664) and some scraps of black satin and gabardine that I had left over from other projects..

When I started I wasn't sure how I was going to embellish it but then I remembered a flock of butterflies I had crocheted over a year ago and still hadn't found a use for. 

I starched them and fastened them to cable ties of differing lengths which I stitched firmly to the hat. It's not really a practical hat at all but will be a bit of fun to wear for this one occasion.

I haven't any dummy head to model it which is why it was photographed on an upturned bucket.
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42  Matchbox amigurumi lion in CHALLENGE 81 ENTRIES by elderflower on: December 04, 2012 09:47:49 AM
Some months ago I made a little lion out of DMC coton perle  no. 5.  I tried to articulate him but the method I used was unsatisfactory and he turned out extremely floppy.  So I decided to make another lion using the same pattern.



But this time I wanted a lion that would actually fit inside the Lion matchbox - that  I had used in the pictures just to give an idea of scale.

This little chap is made from single strands of Clarks/Coats  Anchor embroidery floss; shade  no. 0302 for the body and 0309 for the mane etc. 
The crochet hook  is the smallest I own.  I do not know what system it is but on the shaft  it says it is Made in England and the size is given as 6 ½  + 25 - whatever that means.
For his neck joint I used two buttons as before only I made these by using a paper punch to cut two small discs out of a plastic ice-cream tub lid.



To articulate his legs  I followed Nerdigurumi's excellent tutorial using electrical wire.    Many thanks to Gramma Joe for pointing me in that direction.

I'm quite happy with how he turned out and especially how posable he is, although he took a lot longer than my first one and the stitches were so small I could only work in broad daylight.  So once he was done I rather vowed "never again",  but I keep thinking of ways I could improve him so maybe I will make another one someday.



He is going in my daughter's Christmas stocking.
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43  Beaded Christmas Cards in Winter Holidays by elderflower on: October 08, 2012 12:42:09 PM


I've been making my Christmas cards again and can't remember if I have already explained how I do them.  The little bead decorations are made by bending wire around a frame of nails that my son made to my direction.
(The stars and trees are made using a frame but the rings were just bent around a suitable tube.)
The nails, outlining the shape to be made, are hammered into a block of wood and the heads cut off.
I use ordinary copper wire from electrical cables because that is readily available.  I strip off the insulation and cut it into 30 cm lengths for the tree.  



One end is clamped to stop the beads from sliding off and then I thread the beads on.  



I do one section at a time and then bend the wire for the next section.  Most of the beads will not go easily around corners which is why you have to do one section at a time before bending the wire around the next pin.  



The wire is soft and doesn't need pliers to bend it. But I do sometimes have to use another clamp to hold the wire down and stop it from springing off the pins.

I try to mix up shapes and sizes as much as possible.

The only rule is that because of gravity some beads may try and slip around the corners when the finished ornament  is hanging up, so on the upper side of the corner I try to put a long straight bead or a large one or one with a very narrow bore that won't slide round easily.  And I only use little beads or long ones on the long straight side because I think it looks nice.



Once all the beads are on I twist the two ends together lightly to stop the beads slipping off while I take it off the frame.


I then use pliers to twist the ends together evenly
 
and cut off the short end
  

and bend it over to get rid of the sharp point.


The long end is then curled around a handy tube and the ornament is ready to be stitched to the card.

I use locally handmade paper  and cut it to size by folding it and using a serrated knife to "saw" through it along the fold.  This gives it a more interesting irregular edge.

To fasten the decoration to the paper I use a double strand of ordinary sewing cotton with a knot at one end and the first stitch goes back through between the threads on the back of the paper to hold the end.


I stitch over the wire all around the loop


and finish off at the back with a couple of knotted stitches over the last stitch.


The handmade paper with the decoration is glued to coloured card.  



I use ordinary white glue but It does have a tendency to make the paper or card ripple if I use too much.

A folded piece of plain white paper is lightly glued into the centre of the card for the message.


This is so that the card can be reused simply  by replacing the paper.  However most of the people who get these cards tell me they prefer to take the decoration off the card and hang it on the Christmas tree.

Because these cards are slightly bulkier and heavier than ordinary Christmas cards I do have to use stronger envelopes.  The ones I find best are sturdy self-sealing pay envelopes and these travel through the post perfectly well - even airmail, but they cost more than ordinary letters or cards because they are a bit heavier.
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44  Bargello work glasses case in Needlework: Completed Projects by elderflower on: October 07, 2012 12:33:27 PM
At our monthly meeting of Needlecraft Guild, the class was Bargello work.  We could buy kits with canvas and thread to make a spectacle case. 


Front View

Initially I was not impressed with the colours in my kit but now that it is finished I really like the way they go together.


Back View


Side View

Enjoyed doing this as once you have done the first row, the rest are easy to do and it works up quite fast and the colours blend nicely.

I lined the case with a scrap of flannelette left over from making my daughter pyjamas years ago.
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45  Bamboo yarn sweater in Knitting: Completed Projects by elderflower on: October 02, 2012 05:20:06 AM
 

I finished this in August but only now got around to taking pictures. 
It is knitted using a pattern generated by the pattern calculator at http://www.knittingfool.com/ which is a brilliant site and full of other useful information.  For the pattern calculator, you put in your chest measurement, needle size and tension and it calculates the stitches and rows you need to make the sweater.  I used the raglan top-down pattern but there are others.

I got the  yarn from Orion Wool and Crafts  in Cape Town.  It  is 100% bamboo yarn, Serina by Vinnis Colours, hand dyed and balled by women from an economically depressed rural area of South Africa. 


It is beautifully soft and has a lovely satin sheen which I think you can see in the picture. Also the shades  are very slightly variegated because of being hand dyed.  The garment is quite heavy because of the stitch I used which carries some threads across the back to give a thicker fabric.  As a result it is also quite warm.

The stitch used was one I devised because I wanted to use all the colours but didn't want plain stripes and also I cannot get the tension right for proper Fair Isle.   The colours alternate in two rows each but I slipped stitches to make it look like blocks of colour instead of stripes.



The solid colour squares represent stitches that have been knitted. The n squares are stitches that have been slipped. The vertical arrows show the direction of knitting.  Each row on the chart is one row of knitting.  I was knitting in the round so they are all plain rows, otherwise they would alternate plain and purl.

The pattern changes direction  on the blue rows.   (Indicated by the horizontal arrows.) Either the blue knits up two stitches (x x) first and then a slipped stitch (n)or else it knits up a slipped stitch (n) followed by two knit stitches (x x). 

Between ** and ** represents one complete pattern change. 

Changing direction makes it more complicated and there is much more room for error.  I had to keep close track of my pattern changes.  You could just knit it without changing direction and it would look something like this.



Instead of this.


This picture also shows how the colour varies slightly within each shade.

Knitted on 4 mm and 3.5 mm circular needles.
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46  Christmas is coming in Winter Holidays by elderflower on: October 02, 2012 03:07:26 AM
Just to say I baked my Christmas cake this weekend - between power cuts  Grin


It always seems like such an effort, what with having to double line the tin etc and 3+ hours in the oven, with fingers crossed that the power won't go off.  But it is all done and can sit happily in a corner being spoonfed brandy at regular intervals.  Cheesy  Until I get around to icing it nearer to Christmas. 

Getting this out of the way gives me a sense of achievement and gets my mental gears into Christmas mode so I have also made a start on my Christmas cards. 

I plan to write up how I do them in case anyone else wants to know.

Hope everyone else's Christmas plans are off to a flying start.
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47  Little Oompa Loompa from a pair of airline socks in Toys, Dolls and Playthings: Completed Projects by elderflower on: September 07, 2012 01:49:21 PM

There is nothing new in this, as similar methods of doll making can be found in lots of other places.  I particularly use Sunnhild Reinckens' book  "Stoffpuppen -wie Kinder sie leiben"; and an old Anna Burda from December 1984 but you can find a lot of the same kind of doll instructions  here and here


List of ingredients
1   One pair of airline socks (these are from South African Airways which always seem to be orange)
2   Wool for hair – quite a lot - I used about 4 metres for the long pony tail style
3   About 30cm square mutton cloth or similar stretch fabric.
4   100 x 50 cm batting – mine was  0.5 - 1 cm thick
5   Strong thread – I used something called "nylon fishing twine"
6   Ordinary thread in the same colour as the socks.
7   Plain white thread for sewing the batting.
8   Embroidery thread for eyes etc.
9   Four buttons to match socks
Tools
10   Long strong needle, at least 5.5 – 6 cm. You need this for sculpting the face and articulating the limbs.
11   Toilet roll centre – to help stuff the legs and arms
12   Chopstick or similar to help with stuffing
13   Water erasable marker for hair placement
Also ordinary needles, pins and scissors etc.  Most of this is hand sewing but I did use my machine for the arm and leg seams as I don't think hand sewing would be firm enough to stop the fabric from unravelling.  
Method
From the batting cut:
Two strips - 50 cm long and 15 to 20 cm wide - for the legs
Two strips - 25 cm long and 12 cm wide - for the arms.
Making the head

1   Tear the rest of the batting up into little fluffy bits.  
2   Use some of this to make a firm ball about as large as your fist.  It needs to be quite firm as this will be sculpted a bit to make the head and face.
3   Draw a circle about  15 cm diameter in the  middle of your mutton cloth.  I used a saucer as template.

4   Using the strong thread, run a gathering thread all the way round.
5   Place ball of batting in the middle and draw up the gathers around it.  
6   Draw them up tightly and wrap  the same thread several times round the gathers to create the neck.
Shaping the head

7   Using  the strong thread doubled wind it over the top of the head and down through the neck/under the chin a couple of times.  Pull it tight and fasten it off with a few stitches.
8   Take another doubled thread and wrap it tightly round the head, dividing it into two equal halves, upper and lower,  fasten it very firmly with stitches over the vertical threads on either side of the head.
9   Now slide the thread which is to be at the back of the head down towards the neck to shape the back of the head.
Insert the head into one of the socks right up to the toe.  Using self-coloured thread run gathering stitches all round the neck pull up tightly and bind off with several turns around the neck.

The face

10   Mark with pins where you want the eyes to go and then
11   using the long strong needle and doubled strong thread stitch through to the pins from the base of the back of the head and back again on either side.  
12   Pull up tight and tie off to create the eyehole shaping.

13    Embroider eyes and mouth – or paint them if you prefer.

The body

14   Using the rest of the fluffed up batting, stuff the body firmly.  Stuff around the mutton cloth core and push stuffing firmly up to create shoulders.  
15   Cut off the excess sock – about one third of the length –

16, 17 and 18   stitch up the crotch firmly.

Arms and legs

19   Take the other sock, turn inside out and stitch the whole length, about 5mm either side of the midline, with a good strong zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
20   Cut it in half across the stitching. The toe of the sock will make the toes of the doll so make this "half" slightly longer.
21   Now cut up between the stitching to separate the arms and the legs.

22   Take the arms and fold them so that the seam is on one side then stitch across the top of the sock
23   also stitch to cut off the corners which will shape the hands slightly.

Stuffing the limbs

Turn the arms and legs right side out.
24   Take one of the 50 cm long strips of batting.  Roll it up tightly into a cylinder and stitch it down.
25    Insert the toilet roll centre into one of the legs and push the cylinder of stuffing down inside the leg. Push it firmly into the toe.
26   Grasp the stuffing through the sock and pull the toilet roll out to leave the stuffing inside the leg.
Repeat for the other leg
Use the same technique with the 25cm long strips of batting to stuff the arms.

Check the length of the arms and legs against  your doll's body and if necessary cut off any excess sock or stuffing.  

27    Run gathering stitches around the top of the arm or leg,
28   turn under a small edge and draw up tight to finish off.

29    Flatten the seam slightly so that when held against the body the "toes" are angled towards the centre  and the hands are vertical.

30   Shape the ankle on each foot slightly with a zigzag running stitch across the front of the ankle.  
31   Pull it up tight to create a small tuck  and then wrap the thread tightly two or three times around the ankle. Finish off with two or three fastening stitches.

32   Shape the hands by running a gathering thread around the wrists
33   Pull up tightly and wrap the thread around two or three times before fastening off tightly.

Joints

34   Hold the arms against the body and mark where you want them to go with pins.

35   Take two 50 cm lengths of strong thread and one of the buttons.  Stitch up through one hole of the button and down through the other.
36   Take all four thread ends and thread them through the strong needle.  

37   Stitch through one arm, through the body at one pin mark and out at the other pin mark. Finally pass through the other arm. (I couldn't work out how to take a photograph for this.) Pull up fairly tight so the arms are squashed against the body, to give a firm joint.

38    Take another button and separate the threads where they come out of the second arm into two pairs
39    pass one pair through one hole of the button and the other pair through the other hole.
40   Tie off tightly
41   Fasten ends off underneath the button.
Do the same for the two legs.

Hair – long with pony tail and fringe
There are lots of different ways of doing hair.  I use this way when a doll is intended for a small child because it is less likely to pull out.
   Ponytail
With a water erasable pen mark the hair line around the face and also mark a circle at the back of the head. Mark the space between the two lines into roughly equal sectors all around the head.  This makes it easier to do the hair evenly all over.
Cut wool into 60 cm long strands.  

42   Thread one strand into a tapestry needle and, working from front to back, take a small stitch at the back of the head. Draw up the wool to leave a tail of about 20 cm.
43   Take another stitch at the front of the head, again stitching from front to back.
44   Finally take a stitch at the back again but this time going from back to front.
45    unthread the needle. Repeat this all over the head.  The threads become a bit close at the back and if there are too large gaps at the front you can fill in later with long satin-like stitches without tails.

   Fringe
The fringe is worked in what I think is called "turkey stitch".

46   Starting at one side of the face take a small back stitch at the edge of the hairline
47   Pull up the wool but not all the way to leave a loop.
48   Take another back stitch over this  
49   Pull it up tight. Repeat all the way along and finish off with a couple of small stitches.

Cut the loops and trim the fringe to the desired length.

All done.

She will need some clothes but since this tutorial is quite long enough I leave that up to you.
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48  Shadow embroidery in Needlework: Completed Projects by elderflower on: September 05, 2012 01:22:51 PM

At our needlecraft guild meeting last month the topic was shadow work.  I always thought this involved satin stitch which I do not like very much but it turns out to be quite different.
 
Our practice samples were pre-printed gauze



and the stitch  is herringbone  if you  look at the back



or a double back stitch looking from the front



I found I really enjoyed how quickly it fills in the shapes and the pretty effect of the colours showing through the gauze.  I loved it so much that I couldn't bear to stop.  I worked at it every evening (except when we had no power) and finished it in four days.  Since I intend using it as a fly cover for food I then crocheted a little beaded edging to give it a bit of weight.



I used DMC variegated threads and love how the colour changes turned out.  The green for the stems and the yellow orange for the flower centres worked  best.   I now love shadow embroidery and plan on doing lots more.
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49  Kidsilk haze stripe jersey - with instructions in Knitting: Completed Projects by elderflower on: August 20, 2012 11:43:02 AM
 The yarn for this jersey is the Rowan kidsilk haze stripe by Kaffe Fassett.  You are supposed to use it to knit a scarf but I loved the colours so much I wanted a jersey.   It was not cheap.  I paid £17.50 a ball but it only took two balls to make.  It is not hard to knit but it is quite hard to undo mistakes because the yarn felts itself together almost as soon as it is knitted.

The jersey  is quite delicate and I am being very careful about handwashing it etc but I love it so much.  The colours make me think of clouds and sunsets.



I made up the pattern as I went along which is why some of the increases are in odd places.  Also although I did write it down it was on a rather scrappy piece of paper and part of it got lost so I have had to try and recreate it from memory.  So if you do try this think about it as you go as there may be some mistakes. 

Basically it is knit from cuff to cuff with a plain slit/boat neck opening and the stitch alternates 12 rows of "wool round needle, knit two together, knit one" with 6 rows of stocking stitch.

Kidsilk Haze Stripe Jersey

Yarn by Rowan and Kaffe Fassett. 2 x 50g balls of Kidsilk Haze Stripe.
5 mm circular needle. You can use a pair of longish needles but you will need a circular one for the bottom rib and it is easier to knit across the whole body if you use a circular needle. 21/22 rows and 15/17 stitches to 10 cm.  I am 108cm/42.5 inch bust.  You could probably make it larger or smaller simply by increasing or reducing the number of rows across the chest.

Cast on 44 stitches   (The cuff)
15 rows of Knit 1 Purl 1 rib
6 rows of stocking stitch
12 rows:   Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 14 times.
6 rows stocking stitch (Increase one stitch at beginning of first 2 rows and 1 stitch in the middle of the third row)                            (47 stitches)
12 rows:   Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1)  15 times
6 rows stocking stitch (Increase one stitch at the beginning of each row)      (53 stitches)
12 rows:   Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 17 times
6 rows stocking stitch (Increase 1 stitch at each end and in the middle of each knit row)
                              (62 stitches)
6 rows:      Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 20 times
(Increasing for the body)
Next row:   Cast on 6 stitches at beginning  of next row. Knit 8 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 20 times.                     (68 stitches)
Next row:   Cast on 6 stitches at beginning  of next row. Knit 8 (wool round needle, Knit 2, together, Knit 1) 22 times.                     (74 stitches)
4 rows:      Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 24 times
6 rows stocking stitch, casting on 4 stitches at the beginning of each row.   (98 stitches)
2 rows:      Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 32 times
Next row:   Cast on 12 stitches, Knit 14 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 32 times
Next row:   Cast on 12 stitches, Knit 14 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 36 times
Next row:   Cast on 12 stitches, Knit 14 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 40 times
Next row:   Cast on 12 stitches, Knit 14 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 44 times
                              (146 stitches)
6 rows:      Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 48 times
5 rows stocking stitch
Next row:    Purl to centre, turn.                  (73 stitches)     
(The body - front)
Next row:   cast on 4 stitches, * Knit 4 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1)24 times
                              (77 stitches)
Next row:   Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 23 times, wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 3. *
Next 10 rows:   Repeat from * to * 5 times.
(6 rows stocking stitch, repeat  from * to * 6 times.) Three times.  Slide stitches onto a needle holder.
(The body - back)
Now return to the needle with the 73 stitches. Join thread at centre, cast on 4 stitches and purl to end                              (77 stitches)
Next row:   **Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 23 times, wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 3
Next row:   Knit 4 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 24 times**
Next 10 rows:    Repeat from ** to ** 5 times
(6 rows stocking stitch, repeat  from * to * 6 times.) Three times.
Next row:   Knit 73 stitches.  Pick up the 4 garter stitches from the other half and alternate them with the last 4 stitches. Then cast them off, 2 at a time so that one side overlaps the other. Knit the remaining 73 stitches.
Beginning with a Purl row work another 5 rows of stocking stitch.       (146 stitches)
6 rows:       Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 48 times
(Decreasing for the second sleeve)
Next row:   Cast off 12 stitches, Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 44 times
Next row:   Cast off 12 stitches, Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 40 times
Next row:   Cast off 12 stitches, Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 36 times
Next row:   Cast off 12 stitches, Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 32 times
                              (98 stitches)
2 rows:      Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 32 times
6 rows stocking stitch, casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of each row.   (74 stitches)
4 rows:      Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 24 times
Next row:   Cast off 6 stitches at beginning  of next row. Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2, together, Knit 1) 22 times.                     (68 stitches)
Next row:   Cast off 6 stitches at beginning  of next row. Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 20 times.                     (62 stitches)
6 rows:      Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 20 times
6 rows stocking stitch (Decrease 1 stitch at each end and in the middle of each knit row)
                              (53 stitches)
12 rows:   Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 17 times
6 rows stocking stitch (Decrease one stitch at the beginning of each row)   (47 stitches)
12 rows:   Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1)  15 times
6 rows stocking stitch (Decrease one stitch at beginning of first 2 rows and 1 stitch in the middle of the third row)                            (44 stitches)
12 rows:   Knit 2 (wool round needle, Knit 2 together, Knit 1) 14 times.
6 rows of stocking stitch
15 rows of Knit 1 Purl 1 rib
Cast off.
Sew up the side seams and sew down the neck edges to give the width of neck you want. (In my case it was about 30 cm.)
Using a circular needle, pick up 142 stitches around the bottom edge and do about 20 rows of Knit 1 Purl 1 rib. Cast off.
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50  Blue cotton cardigan - knitted from the top down in Knitting: Completed Projects by elderflower on: August 14, 2012 11:50:42 AM

This cardigan was knitted in a thick cotton yarn.  I bought it as a pack of five skeins  from a lady who spins it herself.  (It is the same cotton yarn I used for this lace openwork cardigan ) I used 10mm needles and knitted it from the neck down, making up the pattern as I went along.  I used my previous pattern as a guide but reduced the number of stitches and increased the number of rows  before I split off the sleeves.

On the button band I got rather carried away and made 12 button holes.  This was far too many.  The weight of the buttons on the left front was so great I had to hand sew a tape backing  to stop it from stretching right out of shape and to keep it the same length as the right front.

I worked each colour in stripes of four rows each.  In order to get  the streaking effect of the colours I slipped stitches as follows :

First Row:  Knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 3; repeat across the row ending with slip1 knit 1 slip1 knit 1 over last four stitches.
Second Row:  Purl 1, slip 1, purl 7, slip 1, purl 7 repeat across row ending with purl 7, slip 1, purl 1.  Third Row:  Knit
Fourth Row: Purl.
In order to get the effect of all the slipped stitches being in line I had to work  around the increases so skipped some slip stitches if the increases upset the numbers.  It got  rather out of order once the sleeves were done and I was  knitting down the body. Of course it is not necessary to keep the slipped stitches in line across the rows. My mum made a similar cardigan and also slipped the stitches but let them run randomly down through the colours  and it also looked good.

I more or less wrote down what I did as I went along so here is the pattern if anyone wants to do the same. 

Cotton knit cardi - plain
Bust size 108 cm/42.5 inches.  10 mm needles. Tension  approx. 11 stitches and 12 rows  to 10 cm
Cast on   47 stitches
1   K1 P1 to end
2   P1 K1 to end
3   K1 P1 to end
4   P1 K1 to end
Continue in stocking stitch and increase for the raglan sleeves as follows:
Knit rows
•   K9 (pick up and knit thread between stitches = M1), K1, M1, K 4, M1, K1, M1, K17, M1, K1, M1, K4, M1, K1, M1, K9.         (55 stitches)
•   K10, (M1,K1,M1= +2), K6, (+2), K19, (+2), K6, (+2) K10   (63 stitches)
•   K11, (+2), K8, (+2), K21, (+2), K8, (+2), K11   (71 stitches)
•   12 (+2) 10 (+2) 23 (+2) 10 (+2) 12      (79)
•   13 (+2) 12 (+2) 25 (+2) 12 (+2) 13      (87)
•   14 (+2) 14 (+2) 27 (+2) 14 (+2) 14      (95)
•   15 (+2) 16 (+2) 29 (+2) 16 (+2) 15      (103)
•   16 (+2) 18 (+2) 31 (+2) 18 (+2) 16      (111)
•   17 (+2) 20 (+2) 33 (+2) 20 (+2) 17      (119)
•   18 (+2) 22 (+2) 35 (+2) 22 (+2) 18       (127)
•   19 (+2) 24 (+2) 37 (+2) 24 (+2) 19       (135)
•   20 (+2) 26 (+2) 39 (+2) 26 (+2) 20       (143)
•   21 (+2) 28 (+2) 41 (+2) 28 (+2) 21       (151)
•   22 (+2) 30 (+2) 43 (+2) 30 (+2) 22      (159)
•   23 (+2) 32 (+2) 45 (+2) 32 (+2) 23      (167)
•   24 (+2) 34 (+2) 47 (+2) 34 (+2) 24      (175)

Sleeves
Slip   26 stitches onto spare needle, work across  36 stitches for  8 rows. Rib 6 rows, cast off.
Slip  51 stitches onto spare needle, work  8 rows on next 36 stitches. Rib 6 rows, cast off.
Body
Work in stocking stitch across all remaining  103 stitches  until long enough. Finish with 5 or 6 rows of rib.
Button bands
Pick up stitches down left side of the front.  I picked up 4 for every 5 rows and it worked fairly well. Work 5 rows rib making button holes (wool round needle knit 2 together) in the second row. Cast off.  Repeat for right side of front but without the button holes.
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