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1  HOME SWEET HOME / Exterior Decorating / Yard Art / Gardening: Completed Projects / Card Holder from Retail Store...becomes Plant Boxes and Table!! on: April 03, 2005 12:28:11 PM

I used to work at this health food store and part of my job was ordering the cards.  One day we decided that our old card display rack was in need of a replacement.  Once the new one arrived, I knew that I couldn't let the old display be thrown into the dumpster.  So with my boss thinking I was crazy, I backed my truck up to the loading dock and we hoisted the old display into it.  This display was about 8 or 9 feet tall and it was a square shape that swiveled at the base.  Many of the plastic card holder trays were cracked or broken.
Once home, I started to think about what to do with it.  I decided to cut off a 2 foot section from the top.  This part I do not have a picture of, becasue I gave it to my friend.  It had the top and 4 poles attached under it (llike a table), with plastic card holders going all the way around.  I tiled the top and added rocks and soil to the "plant boxes".  I also added 1 screw into each foot, creating an adjustable foot (for leveling). And it became this unique planter table, that is perfect for growing herbs in.
 
With the rest of the display, I took off the remaining plastic boxes, measured and attached them to the wall of our garage.  I put river rocks in the base of them for drainage, then filled with potting soil, then planted with ground cover types of plants and chicks and hens.

There was still more left of the card holder and I couldn't let it go to waste.  What was left was the base, the part that swiveled.  I figured that it would make a great outdoors side table, so I tiled the top with the same tiles I used on the planter table (above), and viola, a rolling end table with swivel top.

The "shelves" on this fence were also from a display, a different one.

I wanted to send this project in to Readymade Mag but forgot too.
2  HOME SWEET HOME / Crafty Housewares: Completed Projects: Reconstructed / Sewing Box Revamp on: April 02, 2005 01:48:30 PM
I wasn't really sure which category to put this into, but here it is:

This is (the back of) my new sewing box I bought on ebay.  Super cute with Lucite handle (gold flecks even), and gold (one of my favorite colors) material on the outside.



The inside didn't quite suit me though, with the lemon yellow elastic pouch and aging white interior....SO.....


...I gave it a new look with a polka dot material scrap I had and some gold paint.
Its my customized sewing box and I love it!
3  HOME SWEET HOME / Crafty Housewares: Completed Projects: General / Headboard Tutorial on: March 30, 2005 10:47:40 AM

This is a headboard I made, I saw something like it being made on Oprah and decided to make one of my own.  It attaches to a basic bed frame.
1. Cut piece of plywood to fit bed, ask your hardware store nicely and they will do it for you.  Mine is the width of a queen size bed, the height goes from the floor to about 30" above the matress, and the plywood itself is about 1" thick.  Its really personal prefferance how high you want the headboard, and it doesn't have to touch the ground it just makes it easier for attatching so you don't have to hold it up.
2. Drill holes to line up with bed frame.  The back of your bed frame will have holes for this purpose.  You will need long screws and nuts for attaching later (see picture).
3. Apply roll out batting (its stuffing that is flat and comes in rolls) and staple it to headboard as you go until you reach the desired puffiness for your headboard.  I rolled it on front mostly and a little on back so it didn't look like it was just wood underneath.
4. Get enough material (maybe 6 yards or so, and get an uphoslteryish type of material, I found mine in the walmart $1/yard section, its sort of canvas like, get a 60" width or so) to cover.  I  folded the material over the top, so that about 30" draped over each side, front and back.  Cut it so that you have a little over 3" on each end to work with.  Start on one end and staple the material under (staple the back to the front, leaving the front flap of material to fold over later and secure with upholstery nails.)  Do the other side the same way, tightening so that it is firm.  Now the back should be securley attached.
5.  For the front edges: I folded the edge under, leaving enough so that it still overlaps and covers the edge, give it a few staples to secure (not too many you don't want them to show), then use the upholstery nails (found at your hardware store) to securely fasten down the sides, evenly space so that they look nice.  I used black and then switched to white.  Finish by doing the other side, make sure it is taught.
6. At the base I applied a strip of black material I think I added it just to cover some of the wood.  Attach it like the above material was attached or use your own creative way.
7. For a decorative finish you can apply the upholstery nails to the headboard in a pattern of your choice, I chose  a diamond shape.
8. Apply the headboard to your bed frame and your done!
4  HOME SWEET HOME / Crafty Housewares: Completed Projects: General / Pot Rack Tutorial on: March 30, 2005 10:19:12 AM

I found instructions for this pot rack in some building magazine, I forget which.  It's really easy and very functional!  
You will need:
non-stripping screws (about 2" or 2 1/2" long), I like dry wall screw that are black
2" x 4" however long your space is, mine was about 60", make sure it is not warped, pre-paint if desired.
plumbing pieces:
2- flanges 1"
2- connector pieces 1" diameter (Ithink they are about 2" long)
2- 90 degree corner pieces 1"
1- long piece 1"  for pots to hang off of, whatever the length of your wood piece is go down about 3-4 inches
6- S-clamps or S-hooks 1"
All of these things can be found at your home improvement stores, sorry about not knowing the exact names, I never do!
To Make:
1. position wood where you want it, make sure it is level, mark top with pencil.
2. pre-drill some holes into your wood (I did 1 under the center of where each flange was going to go so that the screws were invisible)
3. match wood up with line drawn earlier, drill screws through the 2 holes ( you may need an extra hand to hold up while you screw). Now your wood is in place, check again that it is level, adjust if it is not.
4. The instructions I used said to use a vice for twisting the plumbing metal parts together.  Don't worry about twisting all the way, mine are only twisted about half way and I only used a vice for twisting parts of it. Put all the metal pieces togehter as in the picture, make sure flanges are both completley flat facing the same direction.
5. Position flanges on either end of wood, evenly spaced from sides, measure a distance from the top of the wood and make sure that both flanges are exactly the same distance, then mark holes of flanges with a pen.  Remove flanges and pre-drill the holes.  Screw flanges on.
6. Now add you S-hooks, if necessary you may need to tighten the part of the s-hook that attaches to the pot rack, if so you should do this on a vice before putting rack on wall.  I didn't need to tighten mine, I wanted them to be able to slide.
Hope the instructions are clear enough!

5  HOME SWEET HOME / Interior Decorating: Completed Projects / Laundry Shoot Tutorial on: March 30, 2005 09:41:58 AM

This laundry shoot has come in sooo handy for me and my husband.  I got the idea from my grandparents five story house in the marina of San Francisco.  As a kid we used to send stuff down from the penthouse to the 1st floor.  My husband & I only have a modest 1 srory bungalow, and our laundry is in the center of the basement.  So instead of throwing our laundry down the stairs and enlessly picking up piles, we now have a direct route. ... and its still fun to watch things go down!
1. cut hole in wood floor... I drilled a large hole first with a drill bit, then stuck the jigsaw bit into the hole and continued to cut a rectangle.
2. Use metal flashing (for roofing, sold at home depot or lowe's) to mold to edge of wood, nail in as you go all the way around.  Cut when you overlap a little.  Be sure to go back and smooth out any pieces that your clothes might get caught on with a hammer.
3.  Now I finished mine at the end of step 2, but I would like to do one more thing to ours, and that is to create a door.  Basically cut out a piece of wood that is just slightly larger than the rectangle of the shoot.  Line the edges with metal flashing (for a co-ordinating look!), nail it down with little nails.  Attach 2 hinges to top and then to back of shoot, then a nice nob to top of door for opening.  Sorry I don't have a picture for this step, haven't gotten around to it yet.
Hope this helps!

Veiw from basement:

6  HOME SWEET HOME / Crafty Housewares: Completed Projects: Reconstructed / Sewing Table Tutorial on: March 26, 2005 10:27:39 AM

Hello, This is my first posting, here goes:
I had this door that I found on the curb in my neighborhood & I knew that one day I would do something with it.  So I turned it into a folding sewing table.
1. Use original door hinges and attach to wall where your hands hit your sides (for the correct height).  Use those screw fasteners to hold it in place, pre-drill holes.  I like to use sheetrock screws that they have at Home Depot or Lowe's, they dont strip.
2. I added 2 more hinges spaced int the center for added security, since my door was not a hollow door.
3. Attach 2 pieces of 2x4 with the same type of door hinges.  Cut the pieces to the correct height before attatching.  (Remember to predrill all holes).  See pictures to see how they were attatched.  My pictures don't have it yet, but I am also going to add little pieces of chain to either leg so that they only swing out to the correct poit when table is opened.
4. Once table is up with legs, take a bunch of stuffing (batting) and staple it on really good.  I used loose stuffing and had to use a lot of staples to get it down firm enough, you'd probably be better off using the stuff that rolls out.
5. Get some material that is like canvas, you can double it over if you need to, and staple it at bottom.  I started on one side then moved to the opposite, tightening more on the 2nd time around.  Be sure to cut carefully around hinges so fabric goes down easily (or for a more professional look you could attatch the material under the brass hinges and then add batting etc. .... the things you think of when you have already completed the project!)
6. For fun I added black lace (hot glued it to the sides) for fringe.  And I also painted the legs black to match.
Viola!  A great seming table that can also be used for ironing!






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