Lovely, gorgeous, and highly covetable! I love the green and the burgundy ones - my friends have a thing for merlot type colours. My POP micas came in on Tuesday and I haven't had a chance to play yet - and with the wedding two weeks away, I fear I won't have time until June! I need my perfect lime green...but I'm wearing purple for the wedding and I have a ton of those!
I've been playing with blues lately - so here are a few of the blue sheens I've been formulating lately. (Please visit my blog to see the other blues!)
LIGHT BUT DEEP BLUE MATTE BASE 3/4 tsp eye shadow base (if you don't know what this means, please visit the intro to MMU) 1 scoop (0.15 cc) blue iron oxide or ultramarine blue
This is a great starting point for making other eye shadows, or you can use it alone as a base.
If you'd like it a little darker try... 3/4 tsp eye shadow base 2 scoops blue iron oxide
You can use either of these as the base for your eye shadows. (The recipes below use the word "base" to mean the untinted base...)
ARCTIC BLUE SHEEN (very sheer, very sparkly) 1 part periwinkle blue mica 1 part one of arctic silver mica (blue tinted), fine white mica (satin) or fine white mica (matte) 1 part base (use the eye shadow base for a pale colour, the light blue matte base above for a slightly deeper colour)
If you use the arctic silver mica, you will get a white with a blue tinge, which goes well with the periwinkle blue. If you use the satin mica, you'll have white and it's a little less blue, so compensate with a bit more periwinkle blue if you want it bluer. If you use the matte mica, you'll have a less shiny eye shadow. Try all three versions to see what you like!
This will give you a very icy blue colour that is great for highlighting or using as a sheen.
PERIWINKLE BLUE SHEEN (kinda sparkly) 1 part periwinkle blue mica 3 parts base
This will give you a very periwinkle-y blue colour that is suitable for a sheen. (That's the mica in the picture above.)
MAGIC MAUVE SHEEN (again, kinda sparkly) 1 part magic mauve mica 2 parts base
Magic mauve is a lighter colour with a purple-y blue tinge. If you want more mauve, add more mica, up to 3 parts mica to 2 parts base.
Love love love love love! Magnesium violet makes me most beautiful purples, eh? (I think my mother would call it a mauve, but I still haven't figured out those specifics in colour naming yet!) Did you use ultramarine purple as well? Thank you so much for sharing these pictures! Do you have any new colour combinations you want to share?
That's what I love about MMU - add 1 scoop extra of this, take out 1 of that and you have a whole new colour!
Hi MareMare! You could do something like this in a lip balm tube. These recipes are only guesses, but I've put together ingredients that will make a lip balm or stick that has glide, low greasiness, and adhesion.
Make up your eye shadow of choice. I'd make up at least 1 tbsp so I could play around with it. Add 3% calcium carbonate (the dry-flo will also reduce greasiness) - so if you are making up 1 tbsp (15 ml) you'd want to add 3 little scoops (3/32 tsp) to the eye shadow.
Lotion bar - 1 part beeswax or 1/2 part candellia or carnuaba wax, 1 part butter (I'd use cocoa or avocado butter here), and 1 part liquid oil (I'd go with fractionated coconut or jojoba or, if you can find it, IPM). So if we're shooting for 16 grams, let's call it 5 grams wax, 5 grams butter, 5 grams liquid oil. (This will likely make 2 lip balm sized tubes!)
Melt the ingredients for the lotion bar. Prepare your eye shadow of choice. When the lotion bar is melted, add half the eye shadow to it. Mix very very well. Now take a little and put it on a piece of white paper - if you like the colour, keep it. If not, add more of the eye shadow to it. And keep doing this until you get the colour you like. When you like it, pour it into the lip balm tube and let set.
If you feel it's too greasy, you can add more dry-flo or calcium carbonate to it. If it's not a strong enough colour, add more eye shadow. If it's more transparent than you'd like, add some more titanium dioxide to your base.
If you wanted to make it a little more interesting, I'd try the following 30% beeswax 30% butter 33% IPM or cetyl esters 3% cetyl alcohol 2% cyclomethicone 2% dimethicone Melt then follow directions above. The cetyl alcohol, cyclomethicone, and dimethicone will give you a great glide, and the IPM is an ester that will give the feeling of less greasiness.
Remember, these are just thoughts...If all goes well, I can do some crafting tomorrow morning so I'll try this out and let you know. (If all doesn't go well, it'll be next week before I get a chance!)
For the wedding, we're making pretty much everything. The clothes, the food, the favours (cookie bouquets and candles), and my bridal shower is going to be a crafty affair to make some candles, cookies, and flags for a garland. The only things we're buying are bubble kits (we could make the bubble liquid, but we need the containers and they only come pre-bubbled!) and our shoes. Oh, and the rings we're having sized - they were my grandparents' rings. I'm excited about it, but slightly overwhelmed. So much to do!
What would you recommend for mica and oxide colors to start? How much of each, too. I've got so many I'd like to try but I'm not sure if I should get teaspoons or ounces.
Sorry in advance for the long post...this isn't an easy question!
I'd say start with teaspoons of micas, 10 grams or 1/3 ounce for the iron oxides. You'd be surprised at how far a teaspoon of mica can go!
Aside...A scoop in my recipes is 0.15 cc or 1/32 of a teaspoon. A decent sized eye shadow is 5/8 tsp to 1 tsp. So if you are using the 3:2 ratio of colour to base, you're going to use about 3/8 teaspoon of colour in each eye shadow. So you can get quite a few different eye shadows from a teaspoon!
You can get some sampler packs, which not only gets you what you want but you'll get a few colours you didn't expect, so you can play! (See the links below for ideas on where to order). Or You can start with one iron oxide, a few micas, and the base ingredients, but you'll want more when you get addicted...I mean, see how easy it is to make eye shadow!
If you don't want to go the sampler route, it's harder to figure out what to get because it all depends on what colours you like. Find a colour you really want to make, then find a base and 2 colours in that range and build your shopping list from there.
Browns - tan base with brown-umber iron oxide. Add micas like cappucino, bronze, copper, oriental beige, aborigine amber.
Pinks - pink base with ultramarine pink. Add micas like sunset, petal pink, maroon (this alone with the base makes a lovely dusty rose colour), blushing rose, coral, and so on.
Purples - violet base with ultramarine purple or manganese violet. Add micas like patagonian purple, pixi purple, violet.
If you're not sure, everyone suits the white or cream base colour, then add a colour to it!
In addition to these colours, I think every kit needs: black iron oxide - blue-black for cool tones, brown-black for warm tones brown-umber iron oxide satin or white mica - lightening and sparkling silver or gold - metallics are fun, plus you can use these to change the tones black mica - darkening and sparkling (optional) iridescent mica - adding some sparkle and light colour
what exactly is SLS? does that stand for something?
SLS is sodium lauryl sulphate; SLSa is sodium lauryl sulfoacetate. SLS can be found in powder or liquid form, while SLSa tends to be a powder. SLSa is an excellent foamer for bubble baths and is a fantastic ingredient in these bath bombs. (The only place I've found SLS is at Brambleberry, whereas SLSa is found at most supply shops.)
Check out this link from Voyageur Soap & Candle (scroll down to almost the bottom): http://www.voyageursoapandcandle.com/bcb.asp. This is a lovely recipe that can be altered by changing your oils. You could try olive oil (fantastic) or rice bran oil to keep it a heavy weight recipe, or substitute sunflower, safflower, soy bean, or shea oil for a lighter weight. Let us know how it turns out!
I'm so intrigued by this. What is the consistency? I see it in a pump bottle, is it gel-ish? Or more watery, if that makes sense?
It's really hard to describe viscosity in words, but I'm going to try! We're going for the consistency of shampoo. If you add 1% crothix (thickener), you'll have a nice viscosity. If you turn the bottle upside down, it's going to pour down the sides nicely. If you go for 2%, you're getting into the gel zone. We add the thickener to surfactant based products mainly because we expect the product to ooze just right. It's an aesthetic thing. Without the crothix, you still have a nice product, but there's a risk of using too much just because you expect it to come out of the bottle in a certain way.
I would suggest starting with 1% thickener and going from there. The viscosity is a personal thing - you are making it for yourself, so what do you like? - and you don't want to turn it into Jell-o! (Crothix is a picky beast - there is a fine line between Jell-o and just thick enough. So always start at 1%!) If you do reach the super thick zone, put it in a jar and call it "facial goo" (my "bubble goo" is very popular with kids, so you can always use your mistakes!) And I suggest using liquid Crothix that you add at the end of the recipe instead of the pastilles that you melt at the beginning. If you want it thicker, you add more liquid. If you're using pastilles and you want it thicker, you have to reheat everything!
As a note, if you are going to use citrus or lavender based essential oils (lemon, for instance, is good for oily skin), then you will want to put the oil in BEFORE using the Crothix, because they thicken the mixture nicely.