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1  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: General / Pretties for Your Hair on: March 25, 2011 08:09:47 PM
Not sure if I'm posting in the right group, but I've been experimenting with different materials to use for making hair clips for my daughters. I can't see paying the prices listed in the store, so thought I'd give making my own a go.

Here are some of the results:

Felt flowers



Rolled Fabric Flowers




Thanks for taking the time to look. What do you think?
2  OCCASIONS AND HOLIDAYS / Baby Showers And Gifts For New Babies / Crocheted Headband and Felt Flowers on: March 16, 2011 09:22:27 PM
Hey All! I am new to crochet, but these headbands are a cinch!

I am making several for friends who are having babies, and including various color flowers to use with it as a set. They attach through a felt backing with slits, by inserting a normal mini hair clip. So even when the headband is outgrown, the flower can still be used as a hair clip, or slipped onto a plastic headband, or pinned to a shirt or jacket.

Easy and cute!













3  CLOTHING / Clothing for Kids: Completed Projects / Cowgirl outfit on: August 04, 2010 09:14:57 AM
My daughter recently turned seven, and I made her this cowgirl outfit from my head. I don't like patterns, and it was pretty easy to do. I didn't make the hat, but I did make the vest and skirt. She loves the twirly fringe!



4  COOKING / Dessert / Cowgirl Birthday Cake on: August 04, 2010 01:41:50 AM
I made this cake recently for my seven year old's birthday. It was my first time using fondant (only for the bandanna strip) and it wasn't too hard. She LOVED it, and it tasted so nice!







5  COOKING / Dessert / Over the Hill '40' Cake on: May 15, 2010 12:28:21 AM
The cake I made for the hubby's fortieth birthday. It's a hill; half is luscious life and greenery, and the other side (which he had recently slipped down) is mud, and bones and death. It was fun to make!





6  COOKING / Dessert / Rainbow Cake for my Daughter's 8th Birthday on: May 13, 2010 11:55:51 AM
I saw the idea at http://theidearoom.blogspot.com/2009/07/rainbow-cake.html and knew my daughter would love it. I did my own take for the decos on the top, and she DID love it! lol







7  OCCASIONS AND HOLIDAYS / Baby Showers And Gifts For New Babies / Appliqued Burp Cloths for Boy on: May 11, 2010 11:52:46 AM
My friend is having a baby, and I wanted to make her something special. I am in South Africa, and she is in NY USA. These are light enough to ship easily and still be something special.

I added some decorative stitching around the edges, than appliqued in one of the corners. The initial one is for the baby's name: Grant. The music note one is because both parents LOVE music. The top layer of the appliques are felt, which will wash just fine and not fray. Any thoughts?






8  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: General / Felt Hair Clips and Pins on: May 11, 2010 02:51:16 AM
These are some hair clips (or you could make pins out of them) I made for my daughter's Easter hair. I love them. They're so quick, and they look adorable. I'll put up a tut if anyone is interested.



9  CLOTHING / Clothing for Kids: Completed Projects / Matching T-shirt Dress for Daughter and Stuffed Animal **Pic Heavy Tutorial** on: May 07, 2010 04:18:42 AM
This is a t-shirt dress I made for my niece. I added ruffles to the collar, and a cupcake applique to the front. Then I added coordinating material to the bottom of the t-shirt to turn it into a dress.

Here's a link to the .pdf if you want to download it.
http://www.mediafire.com/?x3jhn3qqk1j



Materials:
T-shirt
Matching thread
Sewing machine
Straight pins
Material to make the skirt

**Wash and dry both material and t-shirt before sewing**

**If you want to embellish your t-shirt in any way (like I did with the cupcakes and ruffles) then do it now before you cut it and start to sew. It will be a lot easier now, than trying to add do-dads after you have a pretty full skirt around the bottom.**

STEP ONE:
Try your t-shirt on the intended wearer, and mark where you want the skirt to start.

Then lay your t-shirt flat on a counter (or some other solid surface) and cut it straight across on your mark.

The bottom will roll up on you, but don't worry about that.
Kinda looks like a google-eyed monster, doesn't it?

STEP TWO:
Measure the width of the t-shirt where you just cut it off, and make a note of it. If it's not on an even inch mark, round up to the nearest full inch. (For example, if your shirt is thirteen and 3/4 inches, round up to 14 inches.)


STEP THREE:
Have the intended wearer slip the cut shirt on, and measure from the bottom of the shirt to where you want the length of the skirt to stop.

Remember to add two inches for hemming, and sewing the shirt to the skirt.

STEP FOUR:
Fold your chosen material in half width-wise, making sure your desired length will still fit. (We will be cutting on the fold to make to skirt panels.) For example, if your material is 45 inches in width, fold it in half to make it 22.5 inches wide. This was the perfect length for me, so I didn't need to trim it at all.

Measure across your material double the width of the t-shirt you measured in step two. Why? Well, we want our skirt to be a little gathered and full, don't we? And we can't gather a skirt that is the exact width of the shirt we're sewing it to. So we double the width and add a few inches for seam allowances.

(My t-shirt measured 14 inches across, so I doubled that to 28 inches. Then I added two inches for seam allowances, so my width was 30 inches.)

Cut at the mark you measured for your width. Then (if folded) cut your material on the fold to make two panels. One will be for the front of the skirt, and the other for the back.

Your two panels.
[If your material isn't wide enough to fold, then measure your desired width first, and mark it. Measure your desired length, then cut on your marks. Make two panels this size. Continue on to step five.]

STEP FIVE:
Lay one panel right-side down on your ironing board. Press the bottom hem on your panel up toward the wrong side, keeping in mind your measurements. Do the same for the other panel.


STEP SIX:
Lay your panels right-sides together. Pin down one short side, and sew the seam. (I don't pin with cotton. It doesn't slip much. But I DO hold it rather tightly to make sure the edges are lined up.)


STEP SEVEN:
Now that your panels are attached, sew up your bottom hem.


Then sew up the final side seam.And press your side seams open.


STEP EIGHT:
Now, turn your skirt right-side out. Set your stitch to the longest length, because we will be sewing a basting stitch now around the top of the skirt. DO NOT backstitch at the beginning or end. I started at the top of one of the side seams and sewed all the way around so I could keep an eye on where my beginning stitch was.

At your ending stitch, leave a long enough tail to tie a couple knots. I usually leave two or three inches of thread to work with.


STEP NINE:
Tie a couple knot in one set of threads you just sewed, either the beginning or the ending threads. NOT both! Then cut the excess thread to get it out of your way.


Now, gently pull on one string of the threads you didn't knot. It will gather your material. You will have to slide the gathers down the thread to evenly distribute them.


You want to end up having your gathered material the same width as the bottom of your t-shirt.

(Your material will be right-side out, so ignore my inside-out material.)

When your skirt is the desired length, tie off the thread you were pulling on with a couple sets of knots. Trim the excess.

STEP TEN: (I didn't get a picture of this step for some reason. Sorry!!)
Turn your t-shirt inside out. Slip the bottom of your skirt into the neck of the t-shirt and pull it through. Align the bottom edge of the t-shirt with the top edge (the gathered edge) of your skirt. This makes the right side of your t-shirt and the right side of your skirt facing one another. You can kinda see it in the pic below.


STEP ELEVEN:
Line up one side seam of your skirt with one side seam of the t-shirt. Pin in place. Do the same for the other side. (No pics of this either. Sorry.)

Then pin all the way around, making sure the gathers are even. As you can see, I didn't skimp on the pins. You can use less if you want. I need all these pins!! And I think the more you pin, the less likely your knit is to stretch and get puckered.


STEP TWELVE:
Very slowly and very carefully sew around the perimeter of your skirt/t-shirt. Pull out the pins as you go along. DO NOT try to sew over your pins, as you will probably hit one and break your needle. Not cool.


Turn your dress right-side out and slip it on the intended wearer.

Watch her prance and do ballet! Admire your handiwork, and get a cup of tea. Or coke. Or water. And relax a few minutes before starting the next one.


Oh, and double check to make sure none of your basting stitches are showing on the dress. If they are, carefully remove them with a seam ripper. You want a clean look, not sloppy.

Good luck, you can do it!!


And if you'd like to make a matching one for your daughter and a beloved animal, just start the animal's with an infant size t-shirt. The kangaroo in this pic is the size of a Build-A-Bear animal, and the infant shirt I bought was 6-12 months.
10  CLOTHING / Clothing for Kids: Completed Projects / Reversible Patchwork Skirt Tutorial *Full tutorial now Included* PIC HEAVY on: May 07, 2010 02:24:10 AM




I am a newbie sew-er and have enjoyed fiddling around with things quite a bit. I just bought my machine in December 2009, and I LOVE trying to figure out how to make things, since patterns scare the snot out of me. I had this idea in my mind for quite a while, and finally got around to trying it out. I think it turned out cute, and wanted to share. This is my first posting ever at Craftster, so please be kind!  Grin

The link here is to a .pdf I made for this in case you want to download it.   Tongue
http://www.mediafire.com/?wgjzztmzayw

I was thinking the other day that I'd like to try making a reversible skirt. The material I use to sew with here is pretty thin, and I can always see through what my girls are wearing. I figured making one reversible would take care of that problem, and would be more versatile. I just had to figure out how to do it!

Took me long enough too!

What You Will Need:
Ribbon: No less than half inch wide
Material
Thread
Sewing Machine
Elastic
Iron
Cardboard
Patience!!

Step One: Measure the waist of the wearer and add ten inches. This will give your skirt a little gather. If this measurement is not a full inch, round up to the next inch.

Step Two: Decide how many materials you will use in your patchwork. I used four. Now you want to divide the width of your material by the number of materials used. This will give you a large number. Mine was ten inches. If you don't want your blocks that big, divide this number in half. (My number was ten, and I divided it in half to get five inch wide blocks.)

The seam allowances will be 1/4 inch. Each block will lose 1/2 inch total when we sew them together, so you have to add a half inch to each block's measurement for width and height. My block measurements for this tutorial were 5.5 inches wide. Do the same thing for your height for your blocks. (Take the length measurement and divide it by how many materials you'll use.)

Step Three: Make a cardboard template of your measurements, and have someone decidedly handsome trace around it onto the backs of your materials. Then cut them out.


Step Four: Lay out your squares and place them in the pattern you want.

Then stack them neatly with the first one you will sew on top (and so on down the row) so you can sew row by row without getting confused.

Step Five: Take the squares for your first row, and place the first two blocks right-sides together. Sew down the side with 1/4 inch seam allowance. Open them up.

Place the next square in the row right-side down on the right square of the pair you just sewed. Now sew down the side with 1/4 inch seam allowance. Repeat until you've done this for the whole row.


Set it aside:

Repeat for remaining rows:

Iron the seams in each row all one direction. (Example: Press all seams in one row to the right.) Do the opposite for the next row, pressing all in the opposite direction. This will help your seams look smoother.


Step Six: Take your first and second rows, and line up by the seams on a long table. Fold your second row upward so it is now right-side together with the first row.

Pin together the bottom edge. (Mine are upside-down. Sorry if thats confusing.)


Step Seven: Sew along the pinned edge with 1/4 inch seam allowance.


Open up your rows and press.


Continue with all your rows, lining them up and pinning together, then sewing and pressing.


Step Eight: Now measure the finished size of your patchwork (should be just about your expected size from your original measurements) and cut a rectangle of your reverse side the same dimensions. Place it right-side together with your patchwork piece. Leave it for a minute.


Step Nine: We need to make an elastic casing. To do this, we will cut a length of material from the same fabric as your reverse side. Make it the same length as your completed patchwork, (for me it was 40 inches) and make sure the width of it will fold over your elastic and still have room to hem with 1/4 inch seam.


Trim the excess if necessary. (Do not leave your elastic inside at this point.) Iron flat.


Step Ten: Go back to your fabric thats laid out on the table. Fold back the top layer (which is your reverse side) and place your elastic casing onto the patchwork. Make sure the unfinished edge (not the folded side) is lined up with the top edge of your patchwork. Then fold your reverse layer back over and line up the edges with the elastic casing and your patchwork. Pin together.


Step Eleven: Now sew the layers together with a 1/4 inch seam.


When you put your layers right-side out, youll see the unfinished edge of the elastic casing is sandwiched between the back sides of your patchwork and reverse layers.


Step Twelve: Now its time to thread our elastic through the casing. Make sure its cut to one inch less than your waist measurement. On one end of the elastic put two pins vertically. They will keep the elastic from slipping through the casing. On the other end put a safety pin.


Pull the elastic through the casing by the safety pin end. Then place two pins vertically in the end where the safety pin was, so there is a little tail sticking out. Move the pins on the other end into the fabric as well.


Your skirt should now look like this:

Side One


Side Two

Step Thirteen: Now its time to sew up our elastic ends. Remember the tails we left on either side? Were going to sew them together with a small zig zag stitch.


Now our skirt should look like this: The elastic is sewn together, the patchwork is on the inside, and the reverse is on the outside. The final side seam has not been sewn yet. Thats our next step.


Step Fourteen: Separate the skirts so that the right sides of the materials are inside, and the layers are separated. This leaves a long side seam that needs to be sewn. (That seam runs the full length of the skirt. It's the bottom of the skirt in the photo below)


Line up the layers of that long seam, pin, and sew with a 1/4 seam allowance. When you get to the elastic at the center, make sure the casing is out of your way, and continue sewing the seam.

Step Fifteen: Now pull the reverse layer back over the patchwork layer. Youll see they are both right-side out now. Find the side seam you just sewed. Look at the top where the elastic is. The casing didnt get closed up when we sewed the side seam, so we need to do that now.
Take one side of the unfinished casing and tuck it into the other side.

Then set your machine for a narrow zig zag stitch, and stitch that seam closed. With all the gathering at the top of the skirt, this will not even be visible.

Step Sixteen: Almost done! Now we need to finish up that bottom hem. Holding the elastic waistband in one hand, pull down on both skirt layers so they are fully lengthened. Smooth them out. Now take your ribbon and lay it across the bottom of your skirt. Let overhang a half inch on either side. Now fold it back over the width of the skirt, letting a half inch hang over at the end, and cut it. Use a match or lighter to seal the ends and prevent fraying.


Fold the ribbon under so both the reverse and patchwork layers are sandwiched in the middle, then pin and sew with 1/4 inch seam allowance. Youll need to remove your machines arm for this.


Thats it!! Enjoy your new Reversible Patchwork Skirt!!
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