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1  Arizona / Arizona: Central / Re: Craft Workshops at Conspire on 5th St. and Roosevelt on: May 30, 2011 07:45:37 PM
Yep! If there is a specific class you would like that's not on the list we can work something out if there's enough interest. We also will be doing workshops about how to set up an artist's bio, CV, where to get business cards (or alternatives to business cards) and other craft/art related business advice. That one was just discussed today so I'll make another post about it when we have all the information settled.

If you are interested in a class you can either call or email or you can just show up the day of (although I don't recommend this for the classes requiring dyes or dye pastes as the dyes need to be ordered.)
2  IMAGE REPRODUCTION TECHNIQUES / Screen Printing: Discussion and Questions / Re: How long to keep a screen before exposing it? on: May 30, 2011 11:37:37 AM
A week might be too long ordinarily but you'll be fine. You want your emulsion to be bone dry ordinarily so if you live in a humid climate a week might be just enough. You don't want to let it sit for too long though because it might start either decomposing or adhering to your screen, neither of which are good things.


You hadn't mentioned it but it came into my head since you're new to screen printing to NEVER EVER let your screen REMOVER sit for more than three minutes. Any longer than that and instead of removing the emulsion you'll be stuck with it forever. I'm very serious about this.
3  IMAGE REPRODUCTION TECHNIQUES / Screen Printing: Discussion and Questions / Re: Does it matter what side you pull the screen filler thu? on: May 30, 2011 11:34:17 AM
What you should do is lay your screen down so that it is lifted off the table by the actual "screen" part, you should be staring down on the part of your screen that touches your fabric/paper. Tape down a temporary border around the edge of your screen mesh so that you don't get filler on your screen. Next pour a thin layer of screen filler on the tape and pull down with a disposable "squeegee" you definitely do not want to use your real squeegee. Pull down in a deliberate and smooth motion so that your coat is even. Do not pass over more than once as you'll lay the filler on too thick, too thin and it will wear away with use. It's something you have to practice with to get right. Let the filler dry before taking off the tape then wash the blue liner liquid away with COLD water.

When you're ready to wash the filler away you'll need HOT water and Grease Lighting cleaner. Don't try using anything else because trust me it won't work and you'll just be wasting time and money.
4  Arizona / Arizona: Central / Craft Workshops at Conspire on 5th St. and Roosevelt on: May 30, 2011 11:19:16 AM


Conspire Vegan Cafe and Gallery will be hosting art and craft Workshops year round! It is located at 5th St. and Roosevelt in the heart of Phoenix's Art Walk. Classes will be offered the second and fourth weekend of every month Saturday as well as Sunday at noon.

Classes are geared toward all skill levels and discounts are applied for those who sign up for more than one class (50% off for every class signed up for at the same time as the first.)

If you have any questions or comments please feel free to call or email Bailey Curry at baileyccurry@gmail.com OR (602) 471-1681.

Here is the year long calendar so that you can get that discount if you want more than one class (again you must sign up for the classes at the same time to receive the discount).



Please click on the smaller photo to be taken to a more legible image. Thank you very much for looking!
5  SEWING IN GENERAL / Sewing in General: Discussion and Questions / Re: Newbie Sewer Needs Help!!!!!! on: May 30, 2011 11:18:58 AM
There are three hand sewing stitches that you need to know that will take you as far (even further really) than any sewing machine.

Basting stitches, running stitches, and back stitches. I've posted before on these so you can search within my comments or look them up on Google. These are the basic sewing stitches and not only are they easy to master but I honestly feel they make your projects much simpler and faster than with use of a sewing machine

If you're going to be making clothing I recommend using French seams only because they are very strong (to supplement the sometimes not-so-strong quality of hand stitches) and they look very professional.
6  SEWING IN GENERAL / Sewing in General: Discussion and Questions / Re: Hand Sewing Help? on: May 30, 2011 11:15:41 AM
What you really need to pay attention to is the stitches you're using.

Long "in and out" stitches are called "basting" stitches and you use those to hold your fabric together to test out the pattern. If you're making clothing this is a life saver because you can test out fit without spending hours on tiny stitches only to tear them all out if you make a mistake!

Second is the "running" stitch which is exactly like the basting stitch but smaller. Running stitches are strong but I wouldn't use them in the construction of a garment just because there are stronger stitches to use. If you you are interested in doing running stitches to begin with then supplement the stitch by using a stronger seam such as the "French" seam or the "flat felled" seam which is the strongest seam you can use (it's on the sides of your blue jeans).

Third is the "back" stitch which is the strongest stitch you can do by hand. It's a little hard to explain how to do the back stitch just by words alone so I suggest you look up a video.

There are other stitches for other purposes but you won't need those just yet. Practice these stitches with a simple project and you'll be making bags and clothes or anything really in no time. They are very easy to master and honestly I think they are much faster than sewing with a machine.
7  FIBER ARTS / Weaving: Discussion and Questions / Re: Is it possible to weave your own ribbons? on: May 30, 2011 11:09:34 AM
Very possible!

All you need to do is make a thin, long warp and then have at it! I would use something with the smallest rpi as possible so that it's not chunky (very few ribbons are chunky) and then if you're really going for that "ribbon" feel use as close to a silk as you can get. Bamboo is very silky and is a dream to weave with.
8  FIBER ARTS / Dyeing: Discussion and Questions / Re: Question about dyeing yarn on: May 30, 2011 11:03:59 AM
I would imagine that they're both painted. Either than or they dyed different strands for different lengths of time or dip dyed.

If you're going to paint your yarn I wouldn't recommend pouring it just because that's a waste of dye. Take a soft foam brush and dip it in your dye and paint it that way. You'll have a better chance at getting the variation that way. You can also thicken the paste using PRO Chemical's dye paste formula which will give you more control (it's cheap and it will take you a long time to use it all even if you use it fairly often) but not much of the variation unless you work that into your dyes.
9  FIBER ARTS / Dyeing: Discussion and Questions / Re: Dyeing satin flowers on a headband on: May 30, 2011 10:58:04 AM
There are lots of different kinds of satin and so it's difficult to tell exactly what you're dealing with. It could be silk satin, cotton satin, or even a synthetic. The best way to tell what a fabric is made of is to do a burn test. If you feel like you can, take a snippet of the fabric and burn it. If it turns into a powder then it's a plant based fiber, if it smells like burning hair and chars and beads then you're dealing with silk. If the fiber turns to a hard black bead, drips, or leaves a network of hard black mesh then you're dealing with a synthetic or a blend.

If that's impossible then on the off chance it is synthetic you're going to want to experiment with cheap dyes to see what sticks. Synthetic fibers are made of petroleum in most cases and their color is added at the point of creation. PRO dyes won't work on synthetics only natural fibers so I wouldn't go that route because of that and because they are expensive.

Always do a spot test before you dye something to see how the fabric is going to react to it. You don't want to dunk it in and it turns out even more wrong than it is and then you're stuck. Take an eye dropper and let it sit in a conspicuous spot for an hour before washing it. If it looks good then do it to the whole thing.
10  FIBER ARTS / Spinning: Discussion and Questions / Re: CALL FOR ARTISTS -handspun yarn to be included in an art show run by Pluckyfluff on: January 23, 2010 01:28:30 PM
I would so love to contribute to this!  I could not have gotten my new charka at a better time.
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