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31  CROCHET / Crochet: Completed Projects / Knock-Off Dolce and Gabbana "Miss Sicily" Crocheted Bag on: June 16, 2013 03:21:27 PM
I saw this purse on Yahoo! Fashion: "Fashion That Makes Us Sad: The Worst of 2012." I know it looks like something that should be on "What Not To Crochet" but I really dig this design for a purse! It's a Dolce and Gabbana Miss Sicily Crocheted Bag that costs $2,895.

It was being compared to the blanket on Roseanne's couch.  Grin

I finally got around to finishing this project today! Smiley

Kind of a bad picture here, but it's hanging from it's handle.

Materials Needed
   3 colors of yarn: Color A: Solid, Color B: Variegated, Color C: Solid
         For my bag, I used:
        --Color A: 2 skeins of Trendsetter Yarns, Merino VIII in plum (color # 335)
        --Color B: 2 skeins of Bernat Mosaic in Psychedelic (color #44400)
        --Color C: 1 skein of SignatuR Knits in navy blue
   G sized crochet hook
   Yarn needle
   Tape measure
   Plastic canvas, in a color to match the yarn (I used black)
   Single purse handle (I had to buy a package of two: Everything Mary, wood handles)
   One 1" matching button
   A pair of matching onyx square rings (Everything Mary)
   1 package of bias tape, wide single fold, in a color that matches yarn color C.
   Matching cotton fabric and thread for the interior lining
   Cotton thread that matches the bias tape
   An iron

The front flap:
1.   Make 6 granny squares, using the join in the round method (http://knitting-crochet.wonderhowto.com/how-to/join-granny-squares-with-crochet-flat-brain-joining-233233/). Make each square in the following pattern: beginning ring and round 1 with color A, round 2 with color B, joining round 3 with color C. Each granny should measure about 2.75 square.
2.   The squares should be joined in 2 pieces: 4 squares across by 2 squares tall. One group will be the outside of the flap and the other group will be the inside of the flap. Each piece should measure around 5.5 tall x 11.5 wide
3.   Join the two flap pieces together by slip stitching them on three sides.

Front of the purse:
1.   Using yarn color C, chain 50 and turn.
2.   Change yarn to color B and start using the solid shell stitch pattern for the front of the purse:
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first st, *skp 2 sts, 5 dc into next st, skp 2 sts, 1 sc in next st; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in 1st, *skp 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, skp 2 dc, 5 dc in next st; rep from * ending with 3 dc in final sc, skp tch, turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, 1 sc in 1st, *skp 2 dc, 5 dc in next sc, skp 2dc, 1 sc in next dc; rep from * ending with 1 sc in top of tch,
Rep Rows 2 and 3 for pattern st. until the piece is as long as you want it to be. The purse front should be at least twice the height of the flap.
3.   Work the second to last row entirely in scs.
4.   For the last row, change the yarn to color C and work entirely in sc. Fasten off yarn when complete. This piece measured about 11.5 wide x 11.5 tall.

Bottom of the purse:
1.   Using color C, attach it to the bottom hem of the purse front with a slip stitch and work the entire row across the purse front in sc. This will become the bottom of the purse.
2.   Work a series of rows until the bottom panel is as deep as you want it. Mine measured 2 deep. Fasten off yarn when complete.
3.   A piece of plastic canvas will be used to make the bottom of the purse sturdy, so youll need to make a second bottom piece. Go back and attach yarn color C with a slip stitch in the same place as you started, and repeat the directions from #2 to create a separate flap.
4.   These two flaps will be stitched shut with the plastic canvas in between them.

Back of the purse:
Now that I actually have my purse back completed, I probably should have not used such a strongly colored variegated yarn for back here. It's hard to see the where the long DC's are on the back side.
1.   Using yarn color C, attach it with a slip stitch to the bottom flap closest to you (this is the outside flap), and work a series of sc across the entire piece. Chain 2 and turn.
2.   Work 2 rows each of dc, chaining 2 and turning at the end.
3.   Work the next row with 9 dcs and 1 long dc (http://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=56). Continue the rest of the row with 10 dcs and 1 long dc. Chain 2 at the end and turn.
4.   Work the next row with 4 dcs and 1 long dc. Continue the rest of the of the row with 10 dcs and 1 long dc. Chain 2 at the end and turn.
5.   Work 2 rows each of dc, chaining 2 and turning at each end.
6.   Work the next row with 9 dcs and 1 long dc. Continue the rest of the row with 10 dcs and 1 long dc. Chain 2 at the end and turn.
7.   Work the next row with 4 dcs and 1 long dc. Continue the rest of the of the row with 10 dcs and 1 long dc. Chain 2 at the end and turn.
8.   Repeat directions from #5.
9.   Repeat directions from #3.
10.   Repeat directions from #4.
11.   Repeat directions from #5.
12.   Continue working this same kind of pattern (alternating the rows of stitches) until the piece is 11" long.
13.   Work  1 SC in each stitch across, chain 2 and turn.
14.   Work 1 DC in each stitch across, chain 1 and turn.
15.   Work 1 SC in each stitch across and fasten off yarn with a slip stitch when finished. These last two rows will make the back piece slightly larger than the front piece, but you'll need that little bit of difference in size later on when you attach the flap.

Sides of the purse:
1.   Using Color A, attach it with a slip stitch to the narrow end of the bottom of the purse but leave a length of several inches to be used later. Like the back of the purse, the sides are attached to the purse while they are being made. Chain 8 and turn.
2.   Work 2 SC in the first stitch and continue working 1 SC in each of the remaining stitches. Attach the second row to the bottom with a slip stitch and 1 chain.
3.   Work 1 SC in each stitch up the length of the chain. Work 2 SC in the last stitch and 1 chain, then turn.
4.   Work 2 SC  in the first stitch and continue working 1 SC in each of the remaining stitches. Attach to the bottom with a slip stitch and 1 chain.
5.   Continue with directions from #2 and then #3 until the length of the side is 11" long. You should be able to have four rows in the center at 11" long.
6.   For the second half of the length, work in reverse by working 2 SCtog in the same places you were increasing the chains. Fasten off the yarn with a slip stitch when completed, and leave a length of several inches to be used next.

Assembling the purse
1.   Turn the purse inside out. Using the long lengths you left from making the sides, sew the sides together with a series of slip stitches.
2.   Measure your fabric to the same dimensions of the purse pieces and sew the fabric together. When cutting the side pieces, you'll want to cut them with a slight teardrop shape, while the other pieces are squares or rectangles.
3.    You'll definitely want to make sure you press the fabric flat with an iron before sewing. Lay the fabric, front sides together (inside) and sew them together. If you want to add 1-2 pockets to the inside of the purse, add them to the front or back pieces before the interior is completely sewn up. Sew the pieces together the same way you whip stitched the crocheted pieces together: big sides to the bottom, and then the smaller sides to the bottom, and then the vertical seams from all the sides together. When pinning the vertical seams together for sewing,  start from the bottom and work your way to the top. Do not start at the top and pin down to the bottom. If you start from the bottom and work your way up, don't worry if the top hem is not completely straight. This will be fixed later.
4.   Because this is going to be your purse's lining, you may want to sew each edge twice. Flip the pieces over and sew them again on the other side. I used a zig zag stitch for my seams, but you can use any stitch you want. The stronger you make your seams now, the less likely they are to rip later on and you lose stuff in between the lining and purse.
5.   Do not sew the top hems together just yet. Fold over the top edges of the lining and give yourself a 1/4"-1/2" hem. Fold it in such a way that the backsides of the fabric are touching, and pin into place.
6.   Pin the bias tape over the top of your hem.
7.   Drop the lining into the purse and pin it into place, through the bias tape. Sew it into the purse, lining the bias tape up with the bottom of the last row of SC you worked (row 13 of the purse back piece). Here, I changed setting on  my sewing machine and used a standard hem stitch here. When finished, you might choose to iron that top edge one more time.
8.   Get the front flap of your purse and decide which is going to be your front. Lay the purse and flap together with the outsides touching, and slip stitch them together on the inside with yarn color C.
9.   Center the handle along that new seam you just created, on top of the purse, on the outside, With yarn color C, whip stitch the handle to the purse. I did 15-20 stitches on each side of the handle.
10.   The button is for aesthetic purposes only. Sew it to the front flap, centered on the bottom row. Use the yarn needle and yarn color C.
11.   Attach one half of the magnetic snap to the inside of the flap, opposite of the button. Close over the flap to see where, on the front of the purse, to see where the other half of the magnetic snap should go, and attach it.
32  QUILTING / Quilting: Completed Projects / A Quilt From My Husband's Grandma on: May 24, 2013 01:24:27 PM
My husband went for a trip back home to see his family recently, and was gone for 2 1/2 weeks. I don't have that much vacation time (gotta hang on to what I have, at least for now anyways) and I ended up having bronchitis while I was here at our home.

Among the things he brought back was this wonderful quilt from his grandma. Grandma is making sure that each family and each grandchild gets a quilt from her. She finished this one for us in March, in time for our 15th anniversary.

We've hung it on a curtain rod on the biggest piece of wall in our second bedroom. I know it's technically upside down here (look at the orientation of the stars in the quilt), but on the backside is a separate patch that Shane wanted on the bottom so it would be easier to see. It's a patch with our picture on the back, with our names and Grandma's name on it. Shane wanted to be able to show it off. Although the more I look at it here, the more I think I might turn it around. I believe Grandma said this is a 9 Square quilt pattern.

The thing that really kills me is her response back when I sent her a thank you for this. I know a lot of work went into this quilt, because I've made one sewn quilt and I'll probably never make another. They are a lot of work. So I definitely had to thank her. She told me she was glad to hear from me about it and that we liked it because a lot of times, she doesn't hear back from people once they get a quilt from her!!!!

It measures 5'3"x5'9". Each one of the colored squares has a different style of quilting stitch on it. And that thin navy blue border around the quilt? Grandma actually sewed that on BY HAND with the tiniest stitches you've ever seen! Several of the baby quilts she's made are entirely handsewn.

Normally, I don't like to "save" thing for special use: candles, crystal, china, towels, etc. I like to use this stuff because what if there's just NEVER a special enough occasion?  However, in the case of this quilt, we are keeping it safe, while hanging it like this ensures that it's still out for show for all to see.
33  CROCHET / Crochet: Completed Projects / A Chemo Cap to Send: "Patty's Stripes" on: May 24, 2013 01:20:33 PM
This is a chemo cap pattern that I came up with myself last week. Since it's for my mom, I'm calling this one "Patty's Stripes." It's already on it's way to my mom's house.

I used three different colors: a slight off white (color A), a beige (color B), and a rust color (color C) that was actually left over from my Doctor Who scarf last year.

For my stripe pattern, I worked this color sequence: A, A, B, C, C, B, A, A, B, C, C, etc.

Any number of colors will work here, but you don't want to use your cheapest yarns for the chemo caps, otherwise they will be itchy. Use something soft.

Crochet hook: H

CH 2 (or 3) always counts as 1 DC.

Start this hat with a magic circle of 1 chain and 5 SC. Secure the ends with a slip stitch.

Row 1: Chain 2,  work 11 DC in ring. Secure with a slip stitch, and turn the hat around.
Row 2: Chain 2, work 1 DC in the same stitch. Work 2 DC in each stitch around. Secure with a slip stitch, and turn the hat around.
Row 3: Chain 2, work 2 DC in the same stitch. Alternate 2 DC/1 DC around. Secure with a slip stitch, and turn the hat around.
Row 4: Chain 2, work 2 DC in the same stitch. Alternate 1 DC/1 DC and 1 chain around. Secure with a slip stitch, and turn the hat around.
Row 5: Chain 2, work 2 DC in the same stitch. Alternate 1 DC/1 DC/1 DC and 1 chain around. Work your DC with the chain into the space of the previous row's chains. Secure with a slip stitch, and turn the hat around.
Row 6: Chain 3 and alternate 1 DC/1 DC and 1 chain around. Work your DC with the chain into the space of the previous row's chains. Secure with a slip stitch.
Row 7: Chain 2 and work 1 DC in each stitch around. Secure with a slip stitch, and turn the hat around.
Row 8: repeat row 6
Row 9: repeat row 6
Row 10: repeat row 7
Row 11: repeat row 6
Row 12: repeat row 6
Row 13: repeat row 7
Row 14: repeat row 6
Row 15: repeat row 6
Row 16: Chain 1 and work 1 SC in each stitch across. Fasten off the yarn.

Sorry for the crappy cell phone photo.  Smiley
34  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: General / Two Quick Necklaces Today on: April 26, 2013 06:43:08 PM
I finally picked up almost everything I need to try some resin pendants this weekend. I want to make some pendants from some tiny little shells I got this last summer, with some sand from Tampa. The sand is white, and the shells came from Virginia Beach in July when my in-laws came to visit.

While they were here, I bought a "shark's tooth" from one of the local gift shops, and I use that phrase "shark's tooth" loosely, because really...who knows what animal it could have come from. Not that it bothers me. I figured it was also a nice reminder of the first time I ever step foot on the beach out here, when we moved here in 1998. A guy was fishing in the surf, right amongst the waders and swimmers there. Someone on the beach stopped me (I must have looked like a tourist way back then), and told me to ask him what he had in the five gallon bucket he was sitting on. I asked him, and he showed me a shark he had just pulled in from that same water, maybe anywhere from 1-3 feet deep. It was about three feet long and pissed it was in his bucket. I asked him what he was going to do with it. He said filet and eat it. Smiley

Anyway, when my husband's uncle was here, we took him to the Chesapeake Bay beach in Norfolk. While digging around on the beach, I found a rock with almost perfect little holes in it. The shape of it reminded me of a bird's skull, specifically, a crow for some reason. I kept it to turn into a pendant.

I finally got my ass in gear and picked up some artificial leather cording today at AC Moore. I turned both the shark's tooth (because it was cheaper for me to do it myself than buy a shark tooth pendant already) and the rock into simple necklaces.

There are actually four holes in the rock (on the right). They couldn't have been placed any more perfectly for this little project.
35  CROCHET / Crochet: Completed Projects / My Doctor Who scarf is finished! on: January 13, 2013 05:42:55 PM
Anyway, all I know is that my scarf is complete, in all it's crocheted, patched and mismatched glory. I started it in mid-November. The crocheting has been completed for awhile, but I just completed the patches this evening. Right now, I am just about ready to watch Tom Baker's final episode as the Doctor, so I guess it's appropriate that I'm finished with the scarf.

I used the original scarf pattern, found at http://www.doctorwhoscarf.com/pdf/original.pdf. Even though the true scarves were knit, these patterns show rows and colors, so it was easy to work it as a series of single crocheted rows. I made it with a G sized hook, 40 sc wide.  My foundation row was actually 41 sc wide, which equals 8 inches wide and roughly 19 feet long.

I purposely did not go crazy in trying to match the colors perfectly. I didn't want to get bogged down with this project. I wanted to enjoy it and just kind of take it as it all came. In fact, there were a couple colors of yarn that I didn't have enough to complete the scarf, so I added in another yarn of a similar color each time. To me, it just made me think the Doctor would approve. I'm pretty sure this is a complete list of the yarn I used.

-1 skein of SignatuR Handknits, 8 Ply Pure Wool in color #630 for the camel (love this yarn's texture and thickness. I actually preferred this camel yarn more.)
-1 skein of Plymouth Yarn Encore in color #6002 for more of the camel (75% acrylic, 25% wool)
-1 skein of SignatuR Handknits, 8 Ply Pure Wool of navy blue as a substitute for the grey. I had the blue and a lot of the scarves I saw online seemed to have a slate blue color instead of the grey anyway.
-About 3/4 skein of Caron Wintuk in Deep Crimson in color #3048 (100% acrylic) for the rust (I thought I was using a different yarn for the red, but I just found the label of the yarn I was actually using.)
-1 skein of SignatuR Handknits, 8 Ply Pure Wool in color #645 for the green (see a trend here yet?)
-1 skein of American Thread Aunt Lydia's Heavy Rug Yarn in Moss, color #291 (75% rayon, 25% cotton), for more of the green, but like the yellow, this was a stringy bulky weight yarn, so I actually separated it as I used it.
-2-3 skeins of Trendsetter Yarns Marino VIII in color #335 (merino wool) for the purple (a very nice plum color, but I can't remember how much I used anymore)
-2 skeins of Helio in color #3727 (100% Norwegian wool) for the bronze
-1 skein of Lion Brand Baby's First in color #157 (Honey Bee) for the mustard, but this was a stringy bulky weight yarn, so I actually separated it as I used it. (I like the label on this yarn. It has a ruler on both edges, in centimeters and inches, which makes for a convenient quick ruler.)

There are a few rows that are actually one row longer than what the pattern called for, because I wanted all of my color changes to take place on the same side. And there are a few big chunks of color that aren't as long as the pattern called for, because I either started to run out of a yarn or I was getting sick of working on that color.

Each tassel has a piece of each color yarn. To determine the length of the tassels, I doubled the width of the scarf.

The patches came from a plaid curtain from my mom a few years ago. It was too long for the room I hung it in, so I cut it to cafe curtain length and kept the rest. I tried using some iron on fusing first to help the patches stick, but it wasn't taking. I think it  was just old, so I originally whipped stitched some of the patches on by hand. I didn't like how messy that looked, so I got out the trusty seam ripper and removed them, and I ended up sewing them on with my machine.
36  CROCHET / Crochet: Completed Projects / Making My Own Fourth Doctor Scarf on: November 20, 2012 06:56:10 AM
I have finally started a Doctor Who scarf for myself. It's about 3.5' long right now and about 7-8" wide. I actually had it about 1.5' long once before but it was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too wide for my liking. Plus, I was trying something to make it look a little more like a knitted garter stitch, by doing the single crochets so they alternated in the front and back loops.

Yeah, it looked bad.

I frogged it, rolled the yarn and started over. I'm MUCH happier with it now with just the standard single crochets. I'm also doing the color changes on the same sides, so this scarf will actually end up being slightly longer because I'm adding a row, if necessary to each color, to make the color changes uniform.

It's being made on a G sized hook.

Yarns included so far:
--1 skein of SignatuR Handknits, 8 Ply Pure Wool in color #630 for the camel (love this yarn's texture and thickness)
--1 skein of Plymouth Yarn Encore in color #6002 for more of the camel but I prefer the first camel yarn I had
--1 skein of SignatuR Handknits, 8 Ply Pure Wool in color #664 for the rust (love this yarn too but this is starting to look more like a scarlet color to me)
--1 skein of SignatuR Handknits, 8 Ply Pure Wool in color #645 for the green (see a trend here yet?)
--Almost 2 skeins of Trendsetter Yarns Marino VIII in color #335 for the purple (a very nice plum color)
--1 skein of Helio in color #3727 (I think, the label is in Dutch) for the bronze
--1 skein of Plymouth Yarn Encore in color #6002
--1 skein of Lion Brand Baby's First in color #157 (Honey Bee) for the yellow, but this was a stringy bulky weight yarn, so I'm actually separating it as I use it. (I like the label on this yarn. It has a ruler on both edges, in centimeters and inches, which makes for a convenient quick ruler.)

37  CROCHET / Crochet: Completed Projects / Monica Brown's crocheted crop cardigan on: November 20, 2012 06:53:30 AM
As the name specifies, this is a short length, short sleeved cardigan. For my own, I made it longer in length but kept my sleeves about like Monica's.

I loved this pattern because it works up like the babies' and little kids' tunics I've made over the years. This keeps me from having to figure out a toddler's pattern like this on how to make it fit an adult. My math isn't that great. There would have been a lot of swearing involved if I had to wing a pattern on my own. Smiley

It also worked up super quick, because you're working from the top down, and then back and forth. The body and each sleeves are the only pieces to it, for a total of three pieces. And really, the sleeves aren't separate, they are just worked after the body is done. There's no sewing even, because you continue to work the same pattern from the body when you start the sleeves.

For mine, I used a G sized hook. This was a total stashbuster, too, which was a nice little perk, because I am not buying any more yarn on a whim anymore. I am only buying for each project and that's it.

I wonder how long my resolve for that will last.

Here is what I used up:
--2 skeins of Universal Yarns in Classic Shades in Rainforest (#715)--This looks so beautiful until you start getting into the inside of the skein. The yarn's variegated color starts taking on a muddy look to it that overwhelms the rest of the colors in the skein.
--1 skein of Premier Yarns Deborah Norville Collection in Royal Blue  (#ED-100-09)
--2 skeins of Plymouth Yarn Boku in color #7--This color actually matches the Rainforest pretty damn well. While the Rainforest was 70% acrylic and 30% wool, the Boku is 95% wool and 5% silk, which gives it such a unique feel. I really liked the Boku yarn.
Really shitty picture from my cell phone.
--Almost one entire pound of Lion Brand in Denim (the same stuff I used for the overalls on a minion I made)
--Almost one skein of some random other blue I had laying around in my stash. There wasn't a label on it, but I'm thinking it's probably a Red Heart yarn.

The two large purple buttons were scavenged from my stash from a pillow I bought a while back at the thrift store when I needed fiber fill.

The snaps came from the sweater that I turned into hats, which, BTW, I ended up sending up to NYC for the Sandy Craftalong. I decided I couldn't gift them to people I know when I wasn't really happy with them.

I am really happy with how this turned out! It's going to be especially warm, because of the yarn and how it overlaps in the front. I think this would be a good sweater for under my motorcycle jacket. I wouldn't need to zip in the lining then.
38  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: Reconstructed / Finished a Ombre Skirt Dye project on: October 14, 2012 08:21:28 PM
Painted Threads (http://paintedthreadsprojects.blogspot.com/2012/05/diy-ombre-skirt.html) has a super easy DIY Ombre Skirt tutorial. I just got this Christopher & Banks skirt out of the washing machine. I've had it for a while. My mom actually got it for me. I like it but it's a little bit on the bland side. I think it's because it's so dark and I usually don't wear that dark of denim.

I've bleached the holy hell out of the bottom part of this skirt and can't get it as white as I would like but it was looking pretty good when I rinsed it and threw it into the washer.

I am going to let it air dry tonight and run it through the dryer in the morning with a dryer sheet. It still really smells like bleach, even after being washed. Originally. I thought I hadn't been able to get the bottom as stark white as I would have liked, but it surprised me. And even though I rinsed the skirt out before washing it, that middle section came out lighter than I wanted, but still...I love how this turned out!!!!! My laundry room was a little dark tonight, so the top part is really not that dark. The before picture above it actually truer to life.
39  CRAFTY BUSINESS ADVICE / Tips for Participating in Craft Fairs / I have a question about shows on: October 10, 2012 07:27:38 PM
Hi there. Hopefully this question doesn't violate any Craftster rules, but here we go.

Can I ask people who make jewelry here on Craftster, in the correct category, to PM me if they are in a certain part of the country, if I want them to join a trunk show fundraiser I'm planning for next year? Can I even post a  request like that? I'm not hitting anyone up to donate their items, bu rather to sell them.

40  Archive of Past Craftster Challenge Entries / CHALLENGE 79 ENTRIES / My Little Halloween Pony??? (Pic heavy!!!!) on: October 06, 2012 04:44:58 PM
A long time ago, before Hurricane Katrina ever tried to wipe out New Orleans, I came across a family's Halloween idea site. One of the many ideas I loved about this site was the horseman idea the King family posted: "Create this neat prop by using a child's horse. Paint it all black, eyes painted white, and stick a skeleton on the saddle. Then attach real rope to the face and use a child's size grim reaper costume." The idea stuck with me for some time and I kept it filed away in the back of my head. (The family that runs the site lost EVERYTHING when Katrina blew through.)

Then I discovered Craftster. A fabulous post over here caught my eye, on how to turn a child's bounce horse into a carousel horse. And somehow in the twisted confines of my head, these two projects combined to form a carousel My Little Halloween Pony.

I bought this used for $10, because the dowel for the handles on the top of the head was missing. I removed the American Flyer frame and was going to put it out for the metal scrappers, but a man came past our house, recognized it for what it was and asked me if he could have it. Smiley He legitimately seemed surprised that I gave it to him. The horse was standard black and very dirty. The dowel where the stirrups hang was starting to rot.

Primed in our driveway. I used Rustoleum Extra Cover Primer, Rust Control flat black for the quick and dirty spray jobs I did on the mane and tail, and Textured grey spray paint for the body. Unfortunately, it wasn't as textured as I was hoping. I was originally concerned that the details in the saddle (it's just a blow mold plastic horse) would disappear once primed, but that wasn't the case here.

Umbrella base for support from Ace Hardware, a wooden dowel, a random furniture leg from Home Depot, and some PVC pipe fittings. The saddle area is still primer, but the rest of the horse has it's first coats of paint.

In our dining room at this point. The pole has been sprayed with aluminum paint, left over from my Jedi communicator project earlier this year. The first bit of detail painting has begun. Do you see the vampire bite marks on the horse's neck? It even has a little dribble of blood running down.

Done with the detail painting and the clear coats. I also went back to the mane and tail, and brushed on some blue glitter paint on the top parts of the hair to catch the light, kind of like highlights. I also ran a thin paintbrush, dipped in the darkest black paint I had, through the deepest parts of the mane and tail, to show depth. I actually ended up being quite happy with how some of the paint crackled and ran, once the clear coat was applied. In some places, it looks like veins. The umbrella base is a little larger than the dowel, so I have to finagle it into place to make it stand straight.
I purposely drilled the holes for the pole through the middle of the saddle, instead of more towards the front. We have some "interactive" looking props in our yard for Halloween. While we don't let anyone play with them (so no one can get hurt), we can't be there 24/7. So I wanted to avoid any parents seeing this in our yard and think, "Oh, the baby would look so cute sitting on that carousel horse. Let's put her up there and take a picture real quick!" This horse is supported on the pole with super glue, hot glue and 550 cord. While the bottom PVC fitting makes for a pretty tight fit to hold the horse up, it's not fool proof. If a parent put their kid on this, the kid will fall when the horse breaks and then they'd probably want to sue us. But, since they can't sit their kid on the saddle, problem avoided! Smiley

The finished horse of doooooooooooooooooooooom! To hide the hot glue mess in the saddle, I dressed it up with some ribbon I had and some flowers/leaves from the Dollar Tree.

Close up of the paint job on the saddle.
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