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1  Re: A Corset I'd be Happy With if it Fit in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by Maggiedoll on: April 08, 2011 06:39:26 AM
It's so pretty! I have the pattern all drafted too, but how did you decide where to put the boning channels? Is there a page that I didn't read or something?

Either ways, congrats! It looks great, and I can't really tell about the sizing thing. I can't wait to see your other corset!

I don't know how correct it is, but I've been using this olive green pinstriped Vera Wang canvas for the strength layer and for most of my mockups (It was $1/yard from FabricMart awhile ago) so when I add boning channels that aren't right up against seams, I follow the pinstripes.  I've learned that it's a much better idea to stitch the boning angles from the outside rather than from the inside, so I just basted a running stitch along pinstripes that I wanted to use as guides.  I actually did a rather ridiculous amount of hand-basting for this one..  wrinkles in the fashion fabric layer drive me nuts.  I'm definitely going to experiment with fusing the fashion fabric to a strength layer to keep them together, but I'm unsure of how that'll hold up.  My last corset I tried to flatline the pieces together, but then of course each successive layer in is a tad smaller, especially once you consider pressing the seam allowances.. so that makes me hesitant about just fusing them together. 

Here's a closeup of the basting; the red is a temporary pad-stitching (which I actually only did on the second side.. Wink it didn't occur to me until then) and the blue is the running stitch that followed a pinstripe on the inside.  Hopefully when I eventually graduate to coutil, I'll be able to follow the herringbone in a similar way.  I'm sure there are other boning schemes, but it didn't seem like it could be outright wrong to follow the grainline.  Depending on the corset, I guess.  I haven't worked with spiral steels yet, which I'd need for any not-completely-straight boning. 



Sydney Eileen also has a tutorial on vertical boning channel alignment: http://sidneyeileen.com/tutorials/sewing/corset-making/boning-channel/
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2  A Corset I'd be Happy With if it Fit in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by Maggiedoll on: April 07, 2011 07:09:10 PM
I've finally gotten a corset done that I actually like.. Well, except for the small problem that it's, er, too small.  Cry The mockup fit.  I think the problem is a combination of factors:  I only did a 1-layer mockup (although it's nearly impossible to *adjust* a two-layer mockup, and what's the point of a mockup for fitting if you can't alter it?   I've really gotta figure out a better corset-mockup method.)  Then of course I'm still using cable ties as boning, and cable ties are significantly thicker than real corset boning, and with a heavily boned bodice, the boning sorta causes "shrinking" since the fabric doesn't lay totally flat.  And I was hoping for waist reduction, but didn't learn until after I'd already started that ease should be added to the top to allow for displacing from the waist.  So to get it on at all leaves a lacing gap of at least 4", and I still have muffin top problems.  But I figured I'd go ahead and finish it, it was at least good technique practice even if I'm unlikely to wear this one much.  (Unless maybe I lose weight.. Hey, I can dream, right?)
And then I went maybe a tad overboard with the flossing, mainly just because since I can't really wear it, I didn't want to stop working on it.  Usually I judge a project "finished" when I can wear it. 
I drafted it from the instructions in the free article on Foundations Revealed.  The mockup fit wonderfully, I'm pretty sure the cable-tie boning was a big part of the fit problem. 
I've altered the pattern a bit, and am working on a version in denim that's just in a mockup stage now.. and getting a bit distracted with practicing gores. 
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3  Re: Making Your Own Corset? in Clothing: Discussion and Questions by Maggiedoll on: February 27, 2010 05:39:38 PM
Okay, I get it, actually, I was messing with this free CAD program that's actually good, I think I might buy the full version, because that's actually reasonably priced, too..  and that's when I saw what you were saying.  When you're smaller up top than in the hips, you still have to make a rectangle for the pattern, you just have to make the pattern pieces at the top smaller.  (Somehow that wasn't clicking before.) So I'd decrease it by one inch at each of three seams in each side, because my top half is six inches smaller than my bottom half, which is half an inch off of each of the pieces that meet at those seams.  (The front and back ones should be straight.. that's the whole point of the rectangle with the pieces out of it.) 
Like this for half of it, although I've got one of the seams a bit too far back.. but seriously, I just downloaded this CAD program this afternoon and I can actually flippin' use it!  How awesome is that!?  It's all intuitive and has layers and everything..  OMG, I'm such a dork... (This isn't final, I just had to post it and how it works and I'm so in love with this program, it made it make sense!  Itself and the concept that I didn't get!  I think I'm gonna explode.)
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4  Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along! in Clothing Sewalongs by Maggiedoll on: February 23, 2010 05:47:18 PM
So what fabrics are the rest of you guys planning on using?  I've been procrastinating a bit, and I think it's partly because I haven't settled on a fabric, so I don't have a mental image of my final product.  I have an olive green floral brocade I'm considering using, which could give it more the look of the green runway version..  I've also got a bit (one yard 82" wide) of light blue silk twill with palm trees, which might be cool too.  But a lot of me wants to go with the flag look.. maybe I should look up some other flags..
I've got a lot of the muslin together, but there are still some pieces that confuse me.  (like the gathered one that attaches to piece  Huh)  Like I said.. it may be more that I don't have a clear image in my mind of how I want it to turn out.  

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5  Re: Figures For Which There Is Not Good Advice (was "I have a *weird* figure") in Clothing: Discussion and Questions by Maggiedoll on: February 17, 2010 11:32:42 AM
I've also got a stupidly short torso.
You do realize that you just complained about having long legs, right?   Grin The problem, then, is with the fact that everything is designed to make legs look longer, and so if you follow any figure-flattery advice anywhere, your body nearly disappears.  

Completely reversing the advice.. now that's a really, really good idea!  (Why didn't I think of that?  Shocked I thought it was just useless.  I didn't think of actually using it backwards!)



Honestly, the thought of sewing anything other than yoga pants (which I've had luck with, using a tutorial!) makes me anxious and puts me on the verge of tears, because I'm pretty sure it'd be a huge waste of time and money.  If I knew more about pattern drafting, I might attempt it, and I do have a very basic slacks pattern that I'm toying with the idea of, but really, I stick to skirts and dresses.
I used the Jalie stretch jeans pattern, which really is as good as everybody says it is.. except the waistband, which I couldn't get to work the way they said, and did completely differently.. just like everybody else did, apparently.  I found slightly sparkly stretch denim at Joann for $3/yard during the 50% off red-tag sale, so I figured why not?
Of course, this picture looks even worse since the shirt falls to just the wrong place..  but I needed the waistband to be showing for the picture.

I have more of the fabric and I'm planning on making another pair.. but there are some fitting problems and I'd like to make the next pair fit better.  
I haven't been able to get any non-stretch pants to work at all.. I might try disassembling a pair of worn-out RTW jeans and trying to create something that almost fits out of those.  I got a so-called custom-fit lekala pattern, and I can't even get them on!

I was messing around with some tops, and I just realized what may have been obvious..  what you need to do to camouflage wide upper thighs is make your hips look wider.  That's why the hip-length tops look better, they create a horizontal line around your hips, making them look bigger and therefore more in proportion to the top of your legs.  Then preferably wear a shirt tight-ish in the waist to create a leaner silhouette with more of an hour-glass shape.  (And emphasize that you do, in fact, possess a torso.)
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6  Re: Sewing letter pillows - how do I do the ones with 'holes' like A, O, P etc....? in Sewing in General: Discussion and Questions by Maggiedoll on: January 30, 2010 05:58:43 PM
how about leaving a gap so that you can turn it like a tube, and then just hand-sew an invisible seam where the openings meet?  Like this for the O:

Then for the P it could be pretty much the same, but extending farther down past where the edges come together..  and if the break in the A was in the horizontal middle line, it would work for that too. 
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7  Corset top and hoody in Clothing: Completed Projects: General by Maggiedoll on: January 27, 2010 04:17:07 PM
The corset top is based off of Simplicity 2966, and then I added the zipper because I had an appropriately sized one that came in an assortment of 50 zippers from Vogue Fabrics for $7.  I used plastic duct strapping as boning and enlarged the holes in it for the back, so that I could put the eyelets through the duct strapping to help stabilize them.  It's a bit big, though, and doesn't cinch at ALL, so the eyelets don't need much stabilizing anyway.  Next time I'll definitely make a smaller size. 



The hoody is actually roughly based off of an old tissue tee that I got bleach on, so I took it apart to use as a semi-pattern.  I got the fleece from Hancock right before Christmas when it was $2.25/yard and I found the bright thermal stuff in the red-tag section at Joann for $2.50/yard during the extra 50% off sale. 
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8  Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along! in Clothing Sewalongs by Maggiedoll on: January 26, 2010 06:56:29 PM
Got a bit more together..

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9  Re: The Mysterious Galliano Pirate Jacket - Help Me Decipher It or Sew-Along! in Clothing Sewalongs by Maggiedoll on: January 25, 2010 05:27:38 PM
Okay, I've only got a couple of pieces together yet.. but the point is to see them going together, right?  So here's my first picture! 
(please excuse the makeshift "dress form".. and all the cords..)
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10  Re: How do you organize your stash? in Sewing in General: Discussion and Questions by Maggiedoll on: January 07, 2010 12:49:30 PM
So how often does the fabric turn into what you saw?  I'm worse, I'm not usually even sure what I want to do with it!  I only know what I want to do with what I came in for, and that ends up being a very small part of what I end up getting!  (Maybe I'll have better ideas of that when I have more patterns..  those Simplicity patterns I ordered from sewingpatterns.com when they were on sale for $1.99 better get here soon!)

I've actually not found many deals on ebay that I was particularly impressed with--when I've looked around, nothing seemed any cheaper than what I've found on the discount fabric websites. 

I suppose it's actually somewhat good that I live in the middle of nowhere, because the only local fabric place around here is Joann, so I'm less tempted when they're not having any huge sales.  I don't think the Walmart here sells fabric, and I don't go in there anyway because a) walmart is EVIL and b) they have too much stuff.  When I've gone into walmart, I've always come out with stuff that don't need.  I stick to the commissary for food shopping now, it's cheaper anyway. 

It's usually easier to stop myself from buying fabric online because it's harder for me to be sure exactly what I'll get.  I can sometimes convince myself that it probably won't be as good as it looks. I guess that as I sew more and get more familiar with judging what fabric will be like based on weight and content, I'll get worse with buying fabric online, though.  I got a crazy amount of fleece (*ahem*, well, maybe not crazy to you..) when Hancock had the anti-pill fleece on sale online for $2.25/yard right before Christmas.. that I'm really glad I got, because it's keeping me very warm now!
I've been spending more on fabric than I can really afford..  at least I don't have to buy clothes, though! 

I guess that when you see them on sale for $1.99, limit 10, you have to buy 10?  (Cause otherwise it would be a waste, really, right?  You might have to buy a pattern for more later if you don't get it while it's on sale..  or that's what I end up telling myself..)
So do you have an organization system for your patterns?

This is how mine is now (still haven't found those six yards of hunter green panne velvet..)

Fleeces, plus a few others:


Wovens, with the ferret getting in.  (But I don't think she coulda taken the green velvet, because if she had, I'd have found it in one of her hiding spots...)


And knits.  The one on top is what I went back to Joann to get more of.  The thermal is hard to work with, but it's so cute to trim fleece with!
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