A Crafts Community For Craft Ideas & DIY Projects - Craftster.org
Help | About | Contact | Press | Advertise | Terms | Site Map
Welcome, Guest.
Please login or register.
Random Tip: Need help? Click the HELP link at the top of the screen to read the docs or ask at the Help Desk.
Total Members: 296,695
Currently Running With Scissors:
519 Guests and 4 Users
Home Craftster Community Crafting Articles Craft Tutorials My Craftster Crafting Calendar City Guides Craft Shop

  Show Posts
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 29
1  HOME SWEET HOME / Exterior Decorating / Yard Art / Gardening: Completed Projects / Re: concrete planters + tutorial on: February 21, 2011 03:24:11 PM
Thanks for the compliments!

If desired, you could add a drainage hole in the bottom when pouring the concrete.  I would suggest just using a wood dowel in the desired width and lubricate it well to make it easier to remove.  Another option would be to get a masonry drill bit and drill a hole after the concrete has hardened and gained sufficient strength (typically 7-days after pouring).  But the problem with drilling into materials as brittle as concrete is that there's potential it may crack. 

I opted not to add a drainage hole in my planters because I'm not going to have them rest on any type of drainage platter or whatever they're called.  Instead, when I planted my plants, I put a layer of gravel on the bottom of the planter to help with drainage.  So far I haven't seen any issues with doing this and I believe doing this is typically recommended anyhow when planting succulents and cacti.
2  HOME SWEET HOME / Exterior Decorating / Yard Art / Gardening: Completed Projects / concrete planters + tutorial on: February 05, 2011 02:33:28 PM


I've seen similar sized planters on etsy go for $15 - 20 a piece.  But you can make them on your own for a fraction of the cost.  They're pretty simple to make, but it does take a bit of elbow grease to mix up the concrete and you will get a bit dirty.

For my molds, I used some cheap-o plastic containers from the dollar store.  But if you want to be 'green', you could use old take out containers, clean ice cream or milk cartons, etc.  Basically just something in a size you like.  For the 'hole', I would suggest using a plastic disposable cup.  I used old wine bottles for mine - but more on that later.  There are some pros and cons to using glass.

For the concrete, I used a product called Countertop Mix (http://www.quikrete.com/ProductLines/CountertopMix.asp).  It has additives to make it more flowable.  But since most big box home improvement stores probably don't carry this product, I would suggest using Sand Mix (http://www.quikrete.com/ProductLines/SandToppingMix.asp) instead.  And I believe the Sand Mix is available in smaller 10 pound bags.  I found the 80 pound bags of the Countertop Mix a bit tedious to mix for a weakling such as myself.  I also added some charcoal colored pigment to the concrete to darken it up a bit.

Before mixing up the concrete, you'll want to put some sort of release agent on your containers & cup, to make them easier to remove after the concrete has set up.  I used WD-40.  Just a light coat of WD-40 will do.  If it's on too thick, it may stain your concrete.

Basically, just follow the directions on the bag on how to mix the concrete up and for how much water to add.  It's always easiest to mix by adding the concrete to the water in small quantities vs. adding water to the concrete.  With the Countertop Mix, mechanical mixing was required in order to activate the flowable additives.  But since I didn't want to rent a concrete mixer for just 2 bags of concrete, I mixed by hand - which was a bit of a bad idea.  The concrete ended up being too thick for me to mix so I had to add extra water.  Typically adding extra water to concrete is bad because it weakens the concrete - but I figured since the concrete is just being used for planters, it probably not a huge deal.  The ideal consistency is that of 'chunky oatmeal'.  You definitely don't want the concrete to be soup-y. 

Once your concrete has reached the desired consistency, pour it into your containers and push in the cup to make a hole for your plant.  You may need to put some rocks in the cup to weigh it down and to prevent it from being pushed out.  I used a margin trowel to help consolidate the concrete and to smooth off the top.  You may also want to lightly tap on the sides of the container with a soft mallet or the handle of the trowel to help with the consolidation.

You'll want to store your concrete planters in an out of the way location for a few days while they cure.  If it's hot, dry, or windy, you may want to mist them with water or cover them with a plastic baggy to keep the concrete from drying out too fast.  After 3 - 4 days of curing, the concrete should be hard enough so that you can remove your forms.  You will probably see a few pin holes on the sides of the planters from any air bubbles, despite the consolidation.  I actually kind of like the way they look, but if you don't you could probably use some grout to fill in the pin holes or buff them out.

Since I used old wine bottles for my hole, the alkalies from the cement seeped through the protective layer of WD-40 and actually etched the surface of the wine bottle, permanently fastening the bottle to the concrete.  Because of this, I wasn't able to remove the wine bottles.  Instead, I carefully broke up the tops of the bottles with a hammer.  This resulted in some jagged edges of the wine bottle inside the planter.  The good thing is, I don't have to worry about sealing the inside of the planter.  But I do have to be careful when planting my plants, so that I don't cut myself on the edges of the broken glass.

Since I had access to a wet polisher / grinder, I polished the tops of the planters to expose the aggregate.  If you're extra crafty, you can add broken pieces of glass or those glass rocks from craft stores to the concrete, for a decorative look, granted you'll be polishing your planters.  If you're not polishing the concrete, then don't bother with the glass aggregate, as you won't be able to see it without polishing.

If you didn't use glass for the hole, then you'll want to seal the planter with a waterproofing sealer for concrete, to prevent water from seeping through the porous concrete.  Depending on the type of sealer you use, the concrete may need to cure for an additional 7 - 28 days.  For some of the larger planters I made, I'm probably going to go with a siloxane penetrating sealer, that will keep the natural look of the concrete.  But if you want a shiny look, that will also darken the color of the concrete, go with one of those wet look, high gloss sealers for concrete.

Since I'm going to be keeping some of my planters indoors and I don't want them scratching up any furniture or floors, I put some of those felt sticky pads for furniture underneath the planters.  Or if you have any craft felt, you could cut it into the shape of the planter and glue it onto the bottom as well.

Now just add a succulent or cacti and enjoy your new planter!
3  COOKING / Recipes and Cooking Tips / Re: Your Best Pumpkin Recipes!! on: October 09, 2010 10:30:41 AM
I actually just made this recipe for the first time this morning and it's my first time cooking with pumpkin.  It was pretty simple and the granola tastes amazing and makes your house smell heavenly.

http://twopeasandtheirpod.com/pumpkin-granola/
4  PURSES, BAGS, WALLETS / Purses, Bags, Wallets: Discussion and Questions / Re: Any Ideas On How to Fix This Broken Bag Strap? on: April 20, 2010 05:27:28 PM
Unfortunately, it looks like the bottom of the strap is sewn in.   Angry  I'm thinking of perhaps taking it to a local shoe repair place.  They might know how to go about fixing it.
5  PURSES, BAGS, WALLETS / Purses, Bags, Wallets: Discussion and Questions / Any Ideas On How to Fix This Broken Bag Strap? on: April 18, 2010 10:13:19 AM
I found this amazing vintage bag at an antique shop.  It has this awesome hinged opening and is going to be my new knitting bag  It's in pretty decent condition except for the strap which recently broke as I was cleaning it.  Any thoughts on how to fix this?  I was thinking of possibly trying to sew it together with matching or clear thread.  But I'm not too sure if that will work or not.  The strap is made out of some sort of synthetic-y plastic material.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!  (Sorry for the crappy photos.  I couldn't get my camera to focus on the broken area.)




6  QUILTING / Quilting: Discussion and Questions / First Quilt - Robot Themed on: March 03, 2010 09:59:42 AM
So I'm thinking about making my husband a robot themed quilt as a birthday present.  His birthday isn't until July so hopefully I should have enough time.  I was thinking about just sewing together 6" x 6" or 8" x 8" squares of various robot and sci-fi themed fabrics I've seen online.  For the backing I was thinking about using polar fleece.  Is using polar fleece a bad idea?  Would I still need batting and/or binding?  I probably wouldn't actually quilt it, but use knotted yarn or embroidery floss to hold the pieces together.  Would this work? 

Thanks!!!
7  HOME SWEET HOME / Crafty Housewares: Completed Projects: General / Re: Cat-proof toilet paper! ....FINALLY! on: December 02, 2009 04:26:23 PM
Like everyone else has said - Brilliant!

I like your blue toilet too. I wonder why they dont' make those anymore?? Smiley

I haaaaaate our blue toilet! That whole bathroom is blue, including the tub and the vanity sink! It's a huge step to update the whole bathroom, so we've just come to deal with it at this point! Thank you 1960s!

I have a 1960's blue bathroom too.  For some sick reason I love it.  Sadly we had to get rid of the blue toilet when we recently moved in due to Atlanta (Dekalb County) low-flow water requirements. 

I need to make one of those since my asshole cats still like to rip up the toilet paper.  One day they even opened up the linen closet at my old apartment and ripped up an entire package.  How they managed to get it down from the 4th shelf up, I'll never know.

8  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: How did you get started? on: November 23, 2009 05:24:40 PM
I originally learned when I was 7 or 8 from my grandmother.  All I really knew was the knit stitch.  I couldn't even cast on or bind off.  I only made one project.  A scarf for my Pound Puppy that ended up being full of holes and deformed looking.

My first job out of college, I worked a 12 hour night shift job as a lab tech.  There usually wasn't too much for me to do at night and eventually reading for 12 hours every night was getting to be a bit much.  I saw the Stitch N' Bitch book at my local bookstore and loved the knitted skully sweater and knew I had to pick knitting back up right then and there.  I figured it would be a good way to pass the time at night.  Plus, I used to thinking that knitting = fugly boxy sweaters.  But after realizing I could put skulls on sweaters, I was hooked.  I still have yet to make the Skully sweater.
9  NEEDLEWORK / Needlework: Completed Projects / Re: Sorry to all the chemists out there on: October 10, 2009 06:25:04 AM
HAHA.  I'm a Chemist and I absolutely adore this.  I feel your pain on having an awful lab partner.
10  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: General / Re: Been working like a madwoman and have some jewelry to show you :D on: July 30, 2009 05:59:10 PM
gorgeous!
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 29


only results with images
include swap threads
advanced search



your ad could be here!

How-To Videos
How to Blow Dry Curly Hair Straight
How to Blow Dry Curly Hair to Straight
How to Blow Dry Hair Fast
How to Blow Dry Hair with a Natural Wave
How to Blow Dry Layered Hair
Latest Blog Articles
@Home This Weekend: Teacup Bird Feeder
Winner of Craft Challenge #100-Pottermouth
July 23, 2014 Featured Projects

Comparison Shopping




Support Craftster
Become a
Friend of Craftster

Buy Craftster Swag
Buy Craft Supplies
Comparison Shopping

Craftster heartily thanks the following peeps...
Moderators

Follow Craftster...






Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC
SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!

Copyright ©2003-2014, Craftster.org an Internet Brands company.