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1  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Polymer Clay: Completed Projects / Re: Steampunk Flashdrive on: October 01, 2012 06:22:41 PM
Really cool. This way you can offer different capacity drives to go with the sleeves.   So you can offer an 8/16/32 gig version.. and retro fit the sleeve once the order has been placed..

Just a thought..  Really nice work anyway  Smiley 
2  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Polymer Clay: Discussion and Questions / Re: Posting delicate polymer clay sculptures safely on: May 09, 2011 08:43:21 AM
Aw i love rattys.  I used to live with one called Pi.  He had full run of the flat. I made him little runs and platforms so he could get onto the tables, windows, etc.   He had about 8 dens around my flat - under the bed, behind the cupboards, etc.    Total nightmare cleaning up after him but well worth it.  He used to come and wake me up by jumping on my pillow.   Rats are great Cheesy

I also used to work as a postie for royal mail and i can tell you that there is no difference between first/second class and recorded mail - they all go through the same system and those packets get banged about loads.  The 'special delivery' however does use a separate system and the specials are treated much better.  Still a risk though.  The Specials are also insured for quite a bit, but that's not much use for hand crafted items.

Don't know if you sent your ratty out yet but if you use royal mail, special delivery via parcel force would be your best bet.

Good luck.
And great Rat!
3  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Polymer Clay: Completed Projects / Re: Gruesome versus Cuteness! Which one wins? (Image Behemoth) on: December 18, 2010 02:45:14 PM
You are sick!  Sick and twisted!!   Love your bunny Cheesy

Have you ever played the Outbreak game?   You might quite like it.  It's free and should only take you 30mins to finish it. You've got to pick which choice to make like a 'choose your own adventure' game. And you'll get a rating at the end which tells you how well you'd survive a zombie outbreak.  There's an Outbreak 2 as well if you liked it.
And ignore the MMO game. It's rubbish.

http://www.newgrounds.com/portal/view/511685 <-- is one place to find it.

Oh and it's pretty gory so not for the weak hearted.
4  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Polymer Clay: Discussion and Questions / Re: Works-in-progress on: December 18, 2010 02:05:02 PM
Love this thread.  Love those spacey galaxy blends by maxxev earlier.

I've been making more crazy skinner blends...

Guess what colour this 'pattern sheet' will make?? Dont cheat, guess..!







Tertiaries!! The small blobs in the middle were mixed by hand first and as you can see the skinner blend came out the same  Cool.  Now i know its not the nicest or best blend in the world but the point is it managed to produce the desired results.



Next are some shots of the sheet mid blend.  Because the blend is done using the base colour channels many different colours come through as the primaries start to mix. All the horrid yellow blotches in the first one are from the clay sticking to the pasta machine.  If you take your time and avoid the blotches the half mixed blends can look quite nice. (honestly)



And finally all the different patterns below (i call them patters)  will result in exactly the same blend as they all use exactly the same proportions.






Ok, no need to read the next bit unless you want a headache...

The point of all this is to have independent control of each colour channel in the mix so that you can introduce a blue, say, at one very slow rate, while having the white kick in really quickly.  I noticed that if you blend a dark colour into a light colour the dark will come in really abruptly. So a blend from black to white will start white and then all of a sudden be much darker. It seems to do this even with a very, very thin sliver of black and loads of translucent*.
This way (once the method has been perfected) I think I can get much more gradual blend.  Also, and this is the main point, I can have nonlinear graduations of multiple channels!!!
It's hard for me to explain but basically you can have a blend from yellow to blue, passing through green, blending at one rate (linear). And then also have a white channel to mute parts that is being introduced at a different rate (non-linear).  So you can have zero white in the blue. Then gradually add loads of white as it passes into green. When it hits green have very little white. Remove all white as it blends into yellow. And then re-introduce the white again for a very pale yellow at the end. Impossible to do if you just blend the pre-mixed colours.  If that makes any sense?  Basically control of each colour channel for a non-linear blend.    I'm writing it all up to put on a web site but don't even have a site yet so will be a while before that happens.

If you want a better description of what I mean by non-linear blends (and an even bigger headache) you could read post 16 of this thread from Physics Forum where i got a few diagrams to help explain. http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=427246
Warning though: my explanation of things are pretty confusing and I got a couple of complaints saying it was hard to follow.  But I'll lay it all out in easy to follow steps one day.  The guy that helped me on that site understood perfectly though and brought up a really good point.. Is there really any benefit to this method?  Well the more i play with it the more I think that maybe there is.  Really the proof is in the pudding so i'll have to make some spectacular blends once I've nailed the process.

Dont worry if your  Huh. I am too  Cheesy



*I have also noticed that mixing translucent in to de-saturate the colours is less effective than getting the proportions correct.  If you mix allot of translucent into the black, and then blend the black into the white, the resulting gray has just as much translucent in it.
I.e mixing trans with the black is also mixing trans with the white.  You end up desaturating all the colours. Even the white. Better to get the proportions right in the first place. That said, using translucent does help.

5  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Polymer Clay: Discussion and Questions / FIMO Colour Charts on: December 18, 2010 11:21:41 AM
I found some colour charts for mixing fimo.  They're probably not that useful as you just do it by eye, right?
I've never seen them before so maybe no-one else has. And I havn't needed them yet but they may come in handy...







6  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Polymer Clay: Discussion and Questions / Re: blend the lines? on: December 18, 2010 03:53:10 AM
Did you fire the body and head yet?  When adding unbaked clay to baked stuff there is a really obvious line (as the raw clay is slightly lighter) but once you bake the new addition the line practically disappears if you have smoothed it down well. I would then sand it a bit to remove the last traces but as your bird sounds so small i'm not sure sanding is going to be an option. 

To remove the lines I usually just gently soothe them out with my finger or a tool. It distorts the form a bit but once the line has gone you can then remodel it. Difficult with such a small sculpt though.

As a method for sculpting new parts while not disturbing the old you can make one piece, say the body, bake that bit, and then add the head (or wings or whatever) bake that bit, etc, etc.  This works really well.  So once you have got one part right bake it so it wont distort while you work on the rest.   You will have to plan ahead a bit and make sure the bits you bake are definitely finished and wont need anymore changes. You also have to think about access for the other bits. Sometimes I set the pose of the figure after the whole thing is finished which you cant do if you pre-bake parts. Well you can if you leave joints unbaked but that can be tricky.

I've done a few small sculpts (big to you) that where a couple of inches long and this method worked really well. Before I would sculpt the face, then begin work on the body and by the time the body was ready the face would be really distorted.  Now I bake the parts i can once they are right and definitely wont need any more work.  The last one I did got baked about 8 times.

As for the bits that keep falling of you can use CA glue (super/crazy glue) on raw clay to tack them in place though I have never done this, and you could try that clear liquid clay stuff which I think will help stick. I've never used that either tho. Or perhaps you could use a teeny tiny slither of wood of a match or something as a dowel?

Got to dash, Christmas dinner! Good luck!
7  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Polymer Clay: Discussion and Questions / Re: signing your work on: October 31, 2010 12:41:27 AM
Hmmm copyright.  There are a few ways of looking at it...

The moral issue. Would you feel like you where stealing something if you did it? I wouldn't. If someone decided to use something I made as a stamp I would be flattered that they chose my work to represent themselves. I think like this about all my creations so have no real issue with anything I do being copied. But that is me. Ask yourself if you feel it is morally wrong?

Technically - I don't know if it would be classed as copyright infringement. I suspect a good lawyer could make it seem so.  But, assuming you are alright in yourself about doing it, who's going to know? It would be very hard to identify where you had got the stamp.

The third scenario is that technically its fine to do, but you yourself have a moral problem with it. In this case I wouldn't do it. See with me it's more about yours and the other artists feelings on the matter, and not the law as laid out by a third party.

God, i'd hate to say 'do it' and then have you end up in jail. If that happens send me a PM during prison net time and i'll pay for your bail.
8  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Pottery, Ceramics, etc: Completed Projects / Re: Sc-fi dinner set (Farscape, Battlestar Galactica, Firefly ) on: October 31, 2010 12:07:40 AM
oh wow! I just saw these on your flickr page and had to come find them here... [geek] I love BSG! and Firefly!  Spaceships are the coolest thing. You should definitely do a Viper Mk.II from Galactica (BY far the best spaceship ever invented). The mark VII's are alright i suppose, but all that newfangled 'streamlined' stylising makes them look too tacky. The hard lines of the Mk.II's (or even the mk.I's) are much more striking.
http://www.modelermagic.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/kg_cg_viper_mk2-019.jpg
http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=497
The Millenium Falcon is also a good ship - lots of cargo space and can easily be fixxed on the fly - But Serenity has all that too, plus it looks better and has much better handling. Both make great space smuggling ships.
And I don't like the new cylon raiders too much but your drawing of it is excellent. What quote did you put on the back of it (the battlestar one)?

[/geek]

lol  Cheesy
9  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Polymer Clay: Discussion and Questions / Re: signing your work on: October 30, 2010 10:02:13 PM
I think it's important to sign all your work for two reasons.

1: when you die, we can all sell-on your work for much more money that you got for it Wink

and 2: (this is the important one).. These works are works of art. Art created by skilled artisans.  In this day 'n age most things we see are mass produced. Consumers are used to 'perfect' items that are abundant and cheap.  I feel the value of hand-crafted wares has been lost and so it's important to draw attention to the fact that these items are Hand Made. Crafted by craftsters. Putting a signature (and perhaps date) really shows off the uniqueness and helps create that divide between mass-produced 'tack', and quality artistry. Including some sort of mark exposes the artistic nature of these peices and helps justify the comparatively higher price tag.

I think anything anyone makes that is even half good should sign it. Especially you maxxev as all you stuff is really good.  We need to take hand-made back!

Ideas for signing...
I like the idea of a stamp that you can press into the soft clay. Or perhaps you could try burning a mark with a soldering iron?!?

I also like the idea of a signature cane. Check out Jon Andersons sig at the top of this page... http://www.jonandersonfimocreations.com/ apparently that cane slice is only 1/4 inch big!
10  POTTERY, CERAMICS, POLYMER CLAY / Polymer Clay: Discussion and Questions / Re: lightweight brain slug? on: October 21, 2010 12:05:01 AM
This is my favorite project at their site... http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/customer/gallery/patart_cblack.htm

 Shocked That dog's brilliant!
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