On the subject of big busts (Yeah, another G over here). I so recognise the back problem issue. But I have one big problem with wearing corsets. I can't sit in them! (the overbusts buckle, the underbusts are just uncomfortable) Am I doing something wrong in my corsetbuilding or will this problem be solved by using metal boning?
On the subject of fabrics for corsets: I love using curtainfabrics They are very sturdy, come in nice patterns and are always non-stretch... just perfect!
Metal boning alone won't solve that problem; the only corset I've paid substantial money for does the same thing, and it has metal boning, spiral steel. I find the problem is lack of boning -- it looks like you only have boning channels at the seams? Depending on the width of your pieces, put more channels in between the seams, I have boning every 1.5 inches or so. Also, lots of corset makers use spiral steel over the bust to allow it to curve. If you're a G cup, make SURE that you use the 1/2 wide ones. The 1/4 wide is pretty useless for us busty ladies. And I have corsets with 1/2 wide zip tie boning over the bosoms, and it doesn't buckle, so long as there is not more than 2 inches between channels.
So, i was offered a treadle sewing machine, with a spinning attachment, for CAD 350 through craigslist. More that I was willing to pay, so I'm passing, but I'm curious if anyone has seen one of these functioning in real life. I've seen them before in a documentary about Cowichan sweaters, but none of the local spinners I know have actually seen the treadle base with spinning attachment. Anyone? I've tried googling it, but when I put "treadle" and "spinning" into the same search field, I seem to end up with a lot of survivalist websites....
Glad that you're venturing forth into the awesome creative world of corsetry!
I haven't actually made either of the patterns you're talking about, but have seen some lovely results.
But I wanted to pitch in that I'm also busty like you (F/G usually), and I've found that underbusts help me tremendously with my mid-lower back pain. Whenever I go somewhere that standing will be required for more than an hour, I'll wear one, otherwise the pain becomes unbearable. Since you didn't mention where the pain is, I thought I would throw that out there, as overbusts are more finicky and difficult to fit, especially with such a large bust. So since it's your first one, you might find an underbust easier to make, and they're also easier to hide under clothes, I find.
But if you really want an overbust, go for it! I don't want to discourage you, just throw out another option. If you're determined and willing to do mock-ups, overbusts are very possible for your first corset (my first one was an overbust).
As usual, each week, I'm in love with so many of these. I really admire all of the colours that you all come up with. My roving and yarn all tends to be similar colours:), so I am astounded at the variety that appears each week, even in the same posts.
I don't have any to show (I'm a beginning spinner, trying to figure out the antique spinning wheel I bought at the thrift store, and unable to use my three drops right now due to car accident injury back in August), but I have been amassing roving the past few months, and have some beautiful beads I would like to use to do what pmpknpunk and laminathegreat did, plying it with beads. Is there a name for this technique? Is it silly to try it when I'm still so new? Are there any tutes out that than anyone would recommend?
Thanks so much! Hopefully it's not a faux pas to ask the question on here, but not knowing the name of the technique, and seeing it here....
Can I just say how incredibly generous you were, in taking the time to put together that amazingly detailed tute?? I, for one, am totally inspired, and plan to embark on this before the end of the year - it's actually perfect for what I'm trying to achieve w/other media.
If you don't mind, I have a few more questions, just for clarification. I want to make sure I'm understanding everything when I start!
1) What purpose does the melted wax serve? To clean? As a sample cast? If you need to clean the just-carved stone, can you use say a used toothbrush and water, then super-dry it (like w/a hairdryer, to ensure no molten drops spatter when vaporizing water)? I can see using polymer clay to check if the carving's coming along, although one would have to clean the stone to make sure none of that oily residue lingered.
2) I have some of that 2 part RTV silicone putty - is that what you're talking about ("vulcanizing" mold)? If so, will it really stand up to that amount of heat? I'm amazed! But it sounds like the pewter would have to be heated super hot to get fine detail - which is what I'm after. Do you know how high the molten pewter would need to be? Wonder if a candy thermometer would be good to get an accurate temp - maybe just a regular digital probe? Would the molten pewter stick to those things?
3) How could you get that oxidized look on pewter? Can you use liver of sulfur, or Win-Ox?
4) Have you noticed shrinkage, and if so how much?
Make sure that you post a link to what you make!! 1) The wax is indeed for testing the mold, as once it has set, it pops out quite easily. I would avoid using the polymer clay, because it tends to "stick" to things that should be easy release. It can't be removed with really hot water like wax can be, and the wax has a surface tension similar to the pewter, and you don't have to worry about any oily residue that might affect the soapstone's own release feature. Also, although it's mainly intended to test the mold, the first two or three casts do catch dust from the carving, so I usually throw them out. Wax from tealights is a lot cheaper than polymer clay, and my paranoia would prevent me from baking them with the dust in them. Of course, I haven't tried it with the clay, those are just the reasons why I didn't use the clay. Experiment and see how it works for you!
3)I've never tried to oxidize them, honestly. One of the festival participants has worn his pendant since the spring, and the sheen has definitely diminished, it looks like tarnished silver, darkened more around the outcropping bits, etc. I'll try to get a photo of it when I see him next weekend. I'd suggest experimenting, and posting your results!!
4) Not sure what you mean by shrinkage. Like, it gets smaller as it cools? None that's noticeable to my naked eye.
lemme know if you still want input on #2, it seemed like your last post indicated you'd found the answers....
That's so lovely! I'm all inspired now, too -- my boyfriend and I are going away for a romantic weekend to a town that purports to be full of antique shops, and it would be such a wonderful thing for us to make together while we're there.