[Sponsored Project - Supply Case from SewingRepublic.com]

Sponsored Project - Supply Case from SewingRepublic.com


Supply Case

by Stacy Schlyer





Materials

• 3/8 yard of cotton fabric for outside of case and inside pocket
• 3/8 yard of cotton fabric for case lining
• 13" x 13" square of low-loft cotton batting
• 1 package of ½" wide, double-fold bias tape or enough fabric to make 1 3/8 yards of bias binding
• 1 yard ribbon, leather string or cording
• Coordinating thread

Tools

• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Ruler

Steps

Cutting

1. From outside material, cut one piece 13" x 13" and a second piece 13" x 7". From inside material and batting, cut one piece 13" x 13". Cut 2 pieces of ribbon, leather string or cording 15" each. Knot on one end to prevent fraying, if needed.



2. All 13" x 13" squares will need to have all 4 corners rounded (rounded corners will allow for easier application of bias tape). To do this, measure 2" from a corner. Connect these points by making a curve around the corner. Repeat for 3 remaining edges and cut off excess material. Also repeat for two long edges only of the 13" x 7" piece. The same look can also be achieved by tracing around a jar lid.



Sewing

3. Hem the long edge of the un-rounded 13" x 7" pocket piece, fold over 1" to wrong side of material and press. Fold over 1" again and press. Straight stitch close to pressed edge.



4. To mark the front pocket sections, measure over from one short side and mark: 2 1/2", 4", 5 1/2", 7 1/2", and 9 1/2". Using tailors chalk or marking pen, draw vertical lines at these points.



5. Place pocket on top of lining material, matching raw edges and rounded corners. Baste pocket in place by sewing 1/4" around the outside pocket edge.



6. Stitch pocket to lining across marked lines. Be sure to backstitch at pocket openings to secure your stitches so the pocket does not come loose when in use.



7. On the outside of the case material, find the center of the side edge and mark. Place ribbon on wrong side of material and sew 1/4" from edge (if there is a right and wrong side of the ribbon, make sure the ribbon is facing down with the right side laying on top of the wrong side of the fabric).



8. Then fold ribbon to the right side and stitch 1/4" from edge. This process will keep the ribbon from coming loose when pulled tight.



9. Sandwich the fabrics and batting together by first placing the wrong side of the outside case material facing up. Then, layer the batting and lining material on top (with pocket facing up) making sure to match all raw and rounded edges. Baste 1/4" around all outside edges, making sure the ribbon’s loose ends do not get caught in the stitches.



10. Attach double-fold bias tape according to package directions.



11. From top edge of roll, measure down 2 1/2". Fold outside material to inside lining, press in place and sew 1/4" from folded edge.

12. Fill with sewing essentials, roll and go!

[Sponsored Project - Sunglass Case from SewingRepublic.com]

Sponsored Project - Sunglass Case from SewingRepublic.com


Sunglass Case

by Juliette Lanvers



Materials

• 2 squares of fabric 8" x 8"
• 1 piece of thin batting 9" x 9"
• 1 piece of 1/2" wide double-fold bias binding
• 1 piece of 1/4" wide elastic
• Contrasting thread for quilting
• Matching thread for construction

Tools

• Ruler
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Fabric marking pen, pencil or chalk

Steps

1. Layer your squares.
Place one layer of fabric right-side-up on the batting square with the wrong side of the fabric against the batting. Mark a line along the center of the top square with a fabric marking pen, pencil or chalk; it will guide your first line of quilting.



2. Quilt your layers.
This project is small enough that you don’t need to pin it much; add a few pins to hold the two layers together. Make your first quilting line down the middle following your mark. You will use this line and your presser foot to guide you through the rest of the quilting.



Cutting

3. Bind the top edge.
Once the layers are quilted together place the final layer of fabric down with its wrong side against the batting. Trim all edges so they are even.



Sewing

4. Now it's time to bind the top edge. Notice the double fold is not completely even. The deeper side of the bias should be place over what will be the inside of the finished glasses cozy. Pin the binding in place over one side of the quilted square. Stitch the binding in place along the inside fold, edgestitching from the outside of the cozy.



5. Sew the sides shut.
Fold your work in half and sew the bottom shut following the edge of your all-purpose foot. If you do not want to add elastic to the top you can sew the side too, all the way up. Make sure to backstitch each time you start and stop to reinforce your work. Trim the seam allowance for ease in turning the case.



6. If you want to add elastic, slide it first through the binding and pull it to the desired length.



7. Sew the side catching the ends of the elastic in the stitching. Be sure to backstitch.



8. Trim the excess elastic from the seam allowance and turn the case right-side-out.



9. You can now enjoy your creative Sunglass Case!

[Sponsored Project - Sewn Fabric Towel and Napkin from SewingRepublic.com]

Sponsored Project - Sewn Fabric Towel and Napkin from SewingRepublic.com


Sewn Fabric Towel and Napkin

by Juliette Lanvers



Materials

• One piece of cotton or linen for towel, 26" x 19"
• Two pieces of cotton or linen for one napkin, each 15" x 15" square
• A large scrap piece of fabric, fat quarter, or quarter yard of decorative fabric for embellishing towel and napkin
• Medium weight tear away stabilizer
• Medium weight interfacing
• Temporary spray adhesive
• Matching thread
• Embroidery thread for decorative stitching
• One decorative button for each napkin

Tools

• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Pins
• Yardstick
• Fabric-marking pen, pencil or chalk (your choice)
• Seam gauge

Steps

Cutting the Towel

1. With your fabric marker and yardstick, measure and cut from the cotton or linen fabric; one 26" x 19" piece for the towel and two 15" x 15" pieces for the napkin.



2. From the piece of decorative fabric, measure one 7" x 19" piece for the towel and one 4" x 4" piece for the napkin.



3. Start with the 7" x 19" decorative piece of fabric, and press under 1/2" to the wrong side along one long edge.



4. Pin the long unfolded edge of the decorative fabric strip along one long edge of the towel fabric with the right side of the decorative fabric strip against the wrong side of the towel fabric. The pressed edge will be left open for turning right-side-out.



Sewing the Towel

5. Stitch the decorative fabric in place along the three outside edges with a 1/2" seam allowance. Clip the corners, turn the fabric to the right side of the towel, and press. Pin in place and topstitch along the folded edge of the decorative band to secure.



6. To add rows of decorative stitching to the towel, sew one or more lines of stitching across the towel. Using a fabric marker and a ruler, make straight lines across the end of the towel where you want to add the stitching; these are guidelines to follow when sewing.

7. Adhere the stabilizer to the back of the towel with a small amount of temporary spray adhesive to keep the fabric from bunching up or gathering while you are stitching. Then, select a decorative stitch and sew along a guideline. Repeat for each row of decorative stitching desired. Carefully tear the stabilizer away from the back of the stitches when you are finished.



8. Hem the remaining edges of the towel by folding 1/2" to the wrong side of the towel and pressing. Open the fold and press the raw edge toward the fold line to create a narrow finished hem. Pin and topstitch in place.



Sewing the Napkin

9. Pin the two 15" x 15" napkin fabrics together with the raw edges even and right sides together. Leave a 3" opening on one side, about 2" inches from one corner.



10. Stitch with a narrow 1/4" seam and clip the corners. Turn the stitched square right-side-out through the 3" opening and press.



11. Use the 4" x 4" piece of decorative fabric for making the napkin tab. Cut a piece of medium-weight interfacing the same size as the fabric square. Layer the pieces so that the interfacing is on top of the wrong side of the fabric. Fold the layered pieces in half, right sides together, and pin along the long, raw edge.



12. Press the tube fl at centering the seam in the middle of one side. Then, stitch a point in one end of the tube, clip corners, turn right-side-out and press.



13. Measure your button and stitch a buttonhole in the center of the tab at the shaped end.



14. Insert the unfinished end of the tab into the side opening of the napkin, 2 1/2" down from the top corner. Pin in place and topstitch to finish.



15. Fold the napkin closed and mark the spot to add the button. Handstitch your button in place.

[Sponsored Project - Savvy Tote from SewingRepublic.com]

Sponsored Project - Savvy Tote from SewingRepublic.com


Savvy Tote

by Nicole Smith



Materials

• 1 1/3 yard of 45" wide oilcloth, vinyl or heavyweight fabric
• 1 1/3 yard of 45" wide lining fabric
• 1 set of 5 1/2" wide purse handles
• 1 magnetic purse snap
• Two squares of interfacing each 4" x 4"

Steps

Cutting
Use a 1/2 " seam allowance.

1. Cut two 21" x 15" rectangles for the bag front and back, two 15" x 7" rectangles for the bag sides and one 21" x 7" rectangle for the bag bottom from the oilcloth and bag lining.



Sewing

2. From the oilcloth pieces, pin one bag side to the bag front with right sides together matching the 15" raw edges. Mark 1/2" from the bottom edge. Sew the side seam from the top to the marking at the bottom, leaving 1/2" unsewn at the bottom.



3. Repeat to sew the second side piece onto the other 15" side of the bag front, leaving 1/2" unsewn at the bottom edge.



4. Pin the oilcloth bag back to the two sides matching the 15" edges. Sew the same way you sewed on the front, leaving 1/2" unsewn at each bottom edge.

5. Pin the oilcloth bag bottom to the assembled bag with right sides together and the raw edges even. Fan out the corners of the bag at each bottom corner as shown.



6. Sew around all of the bottom edges, pivoting at each corner. To pivot, leave your needle down in the fabric when you come to each corner. Lift the presser foot and turn the fabric in the new direction. Lower the presser foot and continue sewing as normal.



7. Fold two pleats on the top edge of the back of the, and two on the front. The bag shown has two pleats that are spaced 8" apart and 2" deep. Pin the pleats and baste them in place on the sewing machine 1/4" from the raw edge.



8. Bag Lining
Follow all of the same steps above to construct the bag lining, but be sure to leave an 8" opening along one of the side seams for turning the bag right-side-out.



9. Fuse a strip of interfacing to the wrong side of the bag lining front and back, centered along the top edge. Mark snap placements on the bag lining and install following the snap’s instructions. Place each snap centered about 1" below the top raw edge.



10. Cut four 4" x 1/2" rectangles from the oil cloth for the handle straps. Pin two together with wrong sides facing and sew along the two short edges with a 1/4" seam allowance.



11. Lace one strap through a purse handle, matching the 4 1/2" edges. Center it along the top edge of the bag front matching raw edges. Baste in place with a 1/4" seam allowance. Repeat for the bag back.



12. Turn the lining inside out, and place the oilcloth bag right-side-out inside the lining so that right sides are facing together.



13. Carefully line up the top edges, pin in place, and stitch all the way around the edge with a 1/2" seam.



14. Through the 8" opening left in the lining, turn the bag right-side-out. Slipstitch the opening closed after turning.



15. Finger press the edge of the top seam over, and hold in place with clips (binder clips work great and won’t leave holes in the oilcloth like pins will), edgestitch all along the top edge.



TIPS FOR WORKING WITH VINYL:

• Lengthen your stitch to a little longer than normal. A normal stitch can sometimes create a perforated edge in vinyl.
• Try leather or denim needle. They’re stronger and can handle the vinyl better.
• Load your machine with a Teflon or roller foot. If you don’t have one, try placing a piece of tissue paper over the sticky side of your vinyl if it comes in contact with your presser foot. Try putting a piece of masking tape on the bottom of your regular presser foot and it will glide over the oilcloth with ease.

[Sponsored Project - Key Wristlet and Dog Leash from SewingRepublic.com]

Sponsored Project - Key Wristlet and Dog Leash from SewingRepublic.com


Key Wristlet and Dog Leash

by Chickpea Sewing Studio



Materials

For the leash:

• Heavy-duty cotton webbing in 1 1/4” width; Length depends on your height
• One swivel snap hook
• Strip of fabric 1 1/2” by length of webbing plus 2”; You may have to piece two strips together if your leash is longer than 40”
• Pellon® fusible web
• Polyester thread
• Heavy-duty needle, #90 or denim
• Jewelry pliers with Teflon® coating

For the key wristlet:

• Heavy-duty cotton webbing in 1 1/4” width; You’ll need about 10” per fob
• Key fob hardware
• Fabric strip measuring 1½” by 10”
• Pellon® fusible web
• Polyester thread
• Heavy-duty needle #90 or denim
• Jewelry pliers with Teflon® coating

Steps

Cutting
Steps 1 through 3 are the same for both the leash and key wristlet.

1. Cut the webbing to length:
Cut 10” for each wristlet and as long as you wish for the leash. When cutting the leash, make sure you account for the wrist loop.



2. Fuse fabric to the webbing:
Fold 1/4” over on each long side of your fabric and cut a strip of Pellon® to the length of the fabric (just shy of 1” wide). Fuse the Pellon® to the backside of the fabric over the turned edges following the manufacturer instructions. Wait until the paper is cold, peel it off, and fuse the fabric to the cotton webbing.



The fabric for the leash should overlap the webbing by 1” on each end. Trim the excess down to 1/2”. Turn the excess fabric to the other side of the webbing and fuse it in place. This step finishes the webbing ends without the bulk of turning it under.




Sewing

3. Sew the strip down.
With your sewing machine, sew the strip of fabric to the webbing close to the fabric edge on each side.



4. For the leash only.
Make a loop large enough to accommodate your wrist. Sew it down 1/4” from the edge of the loop. Sew over the same line several times to make it strong.



5. Sew the hardware to the other end with the same strong seam. You can even sew two rows of stitches.



6. Your leash is now complete.



7. For the wristlet only.
Fold the webbing (the piece with the fabric sewn on) in half, and place the ends inside the hardware. The hardware for the key fob must be pinched on, not sewn.



Notes on procuring the supplies for this project:

Many websites will recommend buying a set of sheet-metal pliers to finish your fobs. I have found those to be costly and not necessary in this case. I use very inexpensive (around $4) jewelry pliers whose tips are coated with Teflon® (looks like white plastic). You’ll have to press twice, once on each side of the hardware. The Teflon® does a great job of protecting the hardware and you can see what you are doing because the pliers are small.

I have found that the best source for the webbing and hardware are not your local craft chain stores, but online vendors from Etsy.com. I purchased my supplies from one such vendor at a very good price. The key words to find these products are “key fob hardware” and “swivel snap hook.” The webbing they sell with the hardware is excellent also.

[Sponsored Project - Custom Laptop Cozy from SewingRepublic.com]

Sponsored Project - Custom Laptop Cozy from SewingRepublic.com


Custom Laptop Cozy

by Kathryn Goodman and Nikki Smith



Materials

• 1 yard of cotton fabric for the cozy exterior (or piece together strips or patches to make 1 yard of fabric)
• 1 yard of cotton fabric for the cozy interior
• 1 yard of cotton or polyester low-loft fusible batting
• 1 yard 1/2” wide hook-and-loop tape (optional)
• Matching thread

Tools

• Scissors or rotary cutter
• Flexible tape measure
• Yardstick
• Straight pins
• Fabric marker or chalk
• Turning tool or wooden chopstick
• Blind hem/edge stitch sewing machine foot (optional)

Steps

Measuring
Note: Pre-wash and iron fabrics before cutting. All pattern pieces include 1/2”
seam allowance unless otherwise noted.

1. Using a flexible measuring tape, measure around the width of your laptop. Be sure to wrap the tape all the way around, as if you were measuring your waist.



2. Take the width of your laptop and divide it by 2. Take your answer, add 2”. This number will be the width of your pattern piece. For example, the width of my laptop measures 31”. When I divide this number by 2, my answer is 15 1/2”. I add 2” to this number and my final number is 17 1/2”. Therefore, my pattern width is 17 1/2”.



3. Next, for the length of your pattern, measure around the length of your laptop. Again, be sure to wrap the tape all the way around, as if you were measuring your waist.



4. Take the length of your laptop and multiply it by 1.5. Take your answer add 1”. This number will be length of your pattern. For example, the length around my laptop measures 22 1/2”. When I multiply this number by 1.5 my answer is 33 3/4”. I add 1” to this number and my final number is 34 3/4”. Therefore, my pattern length is 34 3/4”.


Cutting

5. Using your yardstick mark a rectangle directly onto your exterior fabric using the measurements from the previous step. (width x length) Cut out your interior lining fabric and fusible interfacing using the same method. An easy way to do this is to fuse the interfacing to the fabric and then cut out the rectangle.



6. If you choose to make a fabric strip for holding your cozy closed, then from your lining fabric you will also need to cut a strip measuring 5” by the width of your laptop pattern piece. If you choose to use hook-and-loop tape, skip this step.




Sewing

7. Fuse batting to the exterior fabric:
On a large surface, place the fusible batting panel adhesive-side-up. Carefully lay the exterior fabric right-side-up over the batting panel. Smooth out the fabric being careful to line up all edges. Fuse the batting to the exterior fabric by pressing with an iron, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Set fused fabric and batting piece aside.

8. Construct the fabric strip:
Follow these steps if you are making the fabric strip to close your cozy. If you want to use hook-and-loop tape, skip this step. With the wrong side of the strap facing up, fold the long edges over by 1/2” and press. Next, fold the two long edges together, press, and pin into place.



9. Edge stitch along each long edge. (If you have a blind hem/edge foot for your sewing machine, use it now—it makes for a super-neat finish! If you don’t have one, just stitch about 1/8” away from the edge!) Set finished strap piece aside.



10. Assemble the exterior and interior pieces:
On a large surface, place the exterior fabric panel batting side down on a large surface. Next, place the lining fabric panel wrong-side-down over the exterior panel. Make sure the right sides of the fabrics are facing each other. Carefully smooth out the fabric, lining up all edges.



11. Pin the fabrics together along the four sides.



12. Stitch around the edges using a 1/2” seam allowance, leaving a 6” opening along one of the sides for turning. Gently pull the batting up from the exterior fabric along the seam allowances and trim the batting close to the stitches. Be careful not to cut the fabrics!



13. Clip corners.



14. Turn fabrics right-side-out through the 6” opening, gently pushing the corners out with the turning tool. Press. Handstitch opening closed.



15. Constructing the laptop cozy:
Edge stitch along the bottom of the short side of the fabric piece. Place the fabric piece lining-side-up and edgestitched-side on the bottom. From the bottom, fold the fabric up by 1/3 of the length of the piece and pin into place. If you are working with a directional print, double-check to make sure it is going in the desired direction.



16. Next, measure up 3” from the folded edge on each side of the cozy, and mark with an erasable fabric marker or chalk.



17. If you choose to make a fabric strap closure for your cozy, insert one end of the strap by 1/2” into the side at the 3” mark. Pin into place.



18. Beginning at the bottom of the cozy on the side where you have inserted the strap, edge stitch along that side and around the flap until you reach about 2" away from the opposite chalk mark. Stopping with your needle in the down position, pull the other end of the strap around and insert it in the seam at the opposite mark, making sure it lies smooth across the fabric.



19. Begin stitching again, and just before you meet the mark, pull the strap up slightly so you can stitch underneath the strap.

20. Continue stitching until you reach the end.
If you want to use hook-and-loop tape, cut one piece the width of the cozy, and
stitch down along this line, removing enough pins so that you can stitch all the
way across. Then, re-pin the cozy sides, and edge stitch both sides of cozy.



21. Place your laptop inside the cozy, close the flap, and measure where to
stitch the other piece of the hook-and-loop tape. Then mark with fabric marker
or chalk. Open the fl ap, and pin and stitch the hook-and-loop tape in place. Trim threads and lightly press. Slip your laptop into its new cozy!

[Sponsored Project - Pillow Slipcover from SewingRepublic.com]

Sponsored Project - Pillow Slipcover from SewingRepublic.com


Pillow Slipcover
by Stacy Schlyer



Materials and Tools

• 1/2 yard of 45” material of your choice
• Thread to match
• 14” pillow form
• Scissors and ruler
• Rotary cutter and mat (optional)
• Pins
• Tailor’s chalk or water soluble pen for marking
• Iron for pressing

Steps

Cutting
Seam allowances are 1/2” unless otherwise noted

1. Using your ruler, mark off 3 different sizes: a 15” square; a 9” x 15” strip; and an 11” x 15” strip of your material. Cut using scissors or your rotary cutter.



Sewing

2. Take the 9” x 15” strip of material: on one of the long sides fold 1/2” of the right side of material to the wrong side and
press. Fold this strip over itself and press again. Sew close to the edge. This will give a finished edge to the back of your
pillow slipcover. Repeat this step along the long edge for the 11” x 15” strip of material.



3. Place the 15” square right side up. Lay the 9” x 15” (which is now 8” x 15” after making the finished edges in step 2)
strip on top of the square, wrong side up. Lay the strip so that the raw edges are matched and that the finished edge is in
the middle of the fabric. Pin in place.



4. Place the 11” x 15” (which is now 10” x 15” after making the fi nished edges in step 2) strip on top of the two pieces of
material, wrong side up. Lay the strip so that the raw edges are matched and that the finished edge is in the middle of the
fabric. Pin in place.



5. Sew all four sides forming a square. Without cutting your stitching, clip the corners and turn right side out.



6. Place your slipcover over your pillow form!



Personalizing your Pillows

Aside from fabric choice there are lots of ways to personalize your slipcovers. Here’s just a few:

Machine stitch: Use the decorative stitches on your machine to create designs on your material—even straight and zigzag stitches can create attractive patterns. To give your stitches more interest, try using a variegated thread; these specialty threads will change colors as you sew!

Fabric markers: Take black-and-white fabric and use fabric marking pens to color in the designs on the fabric or create a white slipcover and draw your own design right onto the fabric!

Thrift it: If you’re having problems finding the “right fabric” check out the local thrift store or flea market. Often times you’ll find yardage at unbelievable prices and even hard-to-find vintage fabrics.

Fabric transfers: Using iron-on fabric-transfer sheets (found at most craft and/or fabric stores) print out your favorite photo and iron onto your slipcover. You can also use ready-made transfers, patches and embellishments to further decorate your pillow.

Jewel it up: If you need to bring a little bling into your room, try adding hot-fix crystals (or fl at-back jewels and clear fabric adhesive) to your slipcover after you’ve finished sewing.

[Sponsored Project - Insulated Lunch Sack from SewingRepublic.com]

Sponsored Project - Insulated Lunch Sack from SewingRepublic.com


Insulated Lunch Sack
by Stacy Schlyer



Materials

• 3/8 yard of material for exterior*
• 3/8 yard of material for interior*
• 3/8 yard of Insul-Brite® (insulating material)
• 8 1/2” strip of iron-on Velcro®
• Thread to match

*If you plan to use a cotton material for the exterior or lining, be sure to pre-wash your
fabrics before sewing. Oilcloth and vinyl would also be good material choices as neither has
to be washed, just wiped down!

Tools

• Scissors and/or rotary cutter and mat
• Tailor’s chalk or water-soluble pen
  for marking
• Ruler
• Pins

Steps

Cutting
Seam allowances are 1/2" unless otherwise noted.

1. Cut two 13” x 17” rectangles from each material: exterior, interior and Insul-Brite.



2. On one short end of each exterior fabric rectangle, remove a 2” square from both the right and left sides as shown in the photo. Repeat for all lining fabric and Insul-Brite rectangles.



Sewing

3. Using a long machine stitch, baste the Insul-Brite pieces to the exterior fabric pieces.



4. With right sides together, sew the exterior pieces together along each side and across the bottom edge. Do not sew the notches together!



5. Match one side seam with the bottom bag seam, right sides together, and pin in place. Sew across the fabric creating a diagonal seam. Repeat for second side.



6. Turn bag right side out. On the top edge of the bag, fold raw edges 1/2” to the wrong side.



7. Repeat steps 4, 5, and 6 for lining material.



8. With wrong sides together, place the lining inside the exterior lunch sack. Match folded edges and seams, and stitch close to finished edges.



Optional: Give your lunch tote a “brown bag” look by creasing each “corner” of the bag from the bottom
corner to the top fi nished edge. Keeping bag edge folded, stitch very close to pressed edge. Repeat for all four sides.



9. On one side of the lunch sack, measure down 1/4” from the top edge. Center an 8 1/2” strip of Velcro (the soft, fuzzy side) on this mark and iron, following manufacturer’s directions.**



10. On the opposite side of the lunch sack, measure down 5” from the top edge. Center the coordinating 8 1/2” strip of Velcro (the rough side) on this mark and iron, following manufacturer’s directions.**



11. Now you can keep your sack closed by rolling down the top edge—just like a “brown bag”!



**You may find that your pressing time needs to be longer than recommended because the Insul-Brite absorbs some of the heat from the iron.