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21  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: General / Re: Resin Belt Buckles! (Includes a tutorial, updated Feb/09 with new photos) on: May 29, 2009 06:18:22 AM
These are really cool, awesome job!
22  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: General / Re: Origami Earings - now w/ tutorial on: May 29, 2009 06:12:03 AM
These are so pretty!  I cant seem to find teh link for the tutorial though
23  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: General / Re: UPDATED: stretched earlobe jewelry (IMG HEAVY) on: May 29, 2009 06:06:00 AM
These are great!! I dont have those kind of holes but wish i did just to wear those
24  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: General / Re: Folded Fabric Flower pin/hair clip tutorial on: May 29, 2009 06:04:07 AM
Awesome tutorial thanks for the post
25  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Discussion and Questions / Re: does anyone know where to get a mold to make resin bracelets ?? on: May 28, 2009 02:01:19 PM
http://delphiglass.com/index.cfm?page=itemList&stage=2  here are two

This book is an excellent source on resin,

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51SM9VHE7JL._SL500_AA240_.jpg

more so that some resin specific books I have bought in the past this guy has written several books and I have found all of them very useful.  This one is well worth the money because it broaches a wide variety of techniques not just resin, some metal, paper, clay, and lampwork as well. He shows a lot of ways to make resin jewelry using household items

Hope this helps
26  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Discussion and Questions / Re: Polishing Resin on: May 20, 2009 06:12:13 AM
This book is an excellent source on resin,
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51SM9VHE7JL._SL500_AA240_.jpg
more so that some resin specific books I have bought in the past this guy has written several books and I have found all of them very useful.  This one is well worth the money because it broaches a wide variety of techniques not just resin, some metal, paper, clay, and lampwork as well.

To polish resin he uses a technique similar to that of metal polishing sanding with finer and finer grits until ready for the polishing wheel at which point he uses a car wax called menzerna on the wheel.  His pieces come to a high shine.  I have yet to try this myself but it is next on my list of many projects.

Hope this helps
27  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: General / Re: Origami Earrings on: May 13, 2009 01:59:40 PM
I actually make and sell them at fairs during the summer.  Last year at an art festival I made and sold around 20 pair at $10 each.  I've never done the modular origami, I do cranes, fireflies, penguins, and seahorses.  What do you finish yours with to harden them?  I use regular spray lacquer from home depot so that the paper is a little more water resistant.  I does darken the paper a tad though.
28  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: General / Re: Another PMC Pea Pod - my first PMC thing, so.. HELP! on: May 13, 2009 07:01:39 AM
For PMC I usually shop at http://clay-king.com/  They dont charge for shipping and have the lowest prices I have been able to find.    I recommend the PMC3 it has less shrinkage and is a low firing clay so its perfect for torch firing. 

I buy my liver of sulfur here http://www.metalclaysupplystore.com/catalogs/categories.asp?catid=5766  as well as a few other things the have good prices on supplies but only really worth it if buying a lot of stuff because their shipping is one flat rate (I recommend only buy clay from here if you are purchasing alot of stuff for that reason, since ClayKing ships pmc for free) 

If looking for a tumbler this place is good http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46376 this is the one I have, works great and is about 1/3 the price of most  Harbor Freight is an amazing resource people dont think to look at hardware stores for jewelry supplies.  I tend to buy all of my copper wire at True Value hardware because its so reasonable priced compared to jewelry stores.

As for stainless shot http://www.sfjssantafe.com/items.php?Gid=374&ItemSet=Tumbling+Media&DepId=tools has the lowest prices I have ever seen on shot.  Every where else sells it for $30+ but they have it for only $15

I think between these sites you will find everything you are looking for and more.
29  JEWELRY AND TRINKETS / Trinkets and Jewelry: Completed Projects: General / Re: Another PMC Pea Pod - my first PMC thing, so.. HELP! on: May 12, 2009 01:33:25 PM
If you want a mirror finish on your PMC you should (after firing) brush away white residue with brass brush and do one of the following:

1.    Start sanding in one direction with a 600 grit paper then once completely done with the 600 move to 800 going perpendicular to the previous direction completely removing the previous grits marks.  Continue going up in grit until you've reached desired appearance (papers actually go up to 8000) apply a small amount of Wenol (silver polish) to a dry cloth, rub it on and then buff it off with a clean cloth.

2.    Use a rotary tumbler (if going this route there is no need to use the brass brush before hand) with stainless steel shot (3lb barrel would need 1.5 lbs of shot) cover the shot completely with water plus another 2 inches (do not over fill)  and add about a teaspoon of Wenol or other silver polish and turn on your tumbler.  Check every hour or so to see progress, I usually let mine go overnight.

3.  Burnishing is your final option, basically after brushing take a burnisher (I prefer an agate one, softer less likely to mar your surface)  and rub the surface with the burnisher until you get a polish.

Liver of sulfur is a great way to add dimension to your piece as well, take a small piece (I mean SMALL!!! a little goes a long way) about the size of a sharpened pencil tip and mix it in about 8oz of HOT water and dip it and check.  Repeat until color is achieved.  The longer it is submerged the darker the color first yellow, orange, purple, blue then finally black.  Take your time and get the color you want and when finished run under cold water to stop the developing of the liver of sulfur.  Now polish or don't away the areas you don't want the patina.  I usually polish the highlights of my pieces to give crevasse a deeper look.

Hope this helps you and I have to say you did a great job for you first time ^_^  Much better than I did my first time
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