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1  CROCHET / Amigurumi: Completed Projects / Sweater bearies (with pattern) on: July 11, 2010 03:14:43 AM
The weather in my area has been ridiculously warm lately, and here I am making bears with... sweaters.





And here's the pattern for these bears! Let me know if you find any mistakes.

Sweater bearies

Materials:

- Yarn scraps in various colors of your choice ( body color, muzzle color, sweater color, two different sweater stripe colors).
- Black beads for the eyes.
- Embroidery floss for the nose.
- A hook appropriate to the weight of the yarn. I personally used fingering weight yarn and a 2.0 mm hook, which resulted in a 3 inch bear.
- Yarn needle.
- Polyfill.

Note: When switching colors, the last loop you pull through the stitch before the switch already has to be in the new color.

Torso
The torso is worked in the round in rows, not a spiral. This is to make sure the color changes line up neatly.

R1: Using the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring, sl st to close.
R2: ch 1, sc inc in next st, around, sl st to close (12)
R3: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around, sl st to close (18)
R4: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (18) Change to the sweater color.
R5: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (18)
R6: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 16 st, sl st to close (17) Change to stripe color A.
R7: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (17) Change to stripe color B.
R8: ch 1, sc in next 8 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 7 st, sl st to close (16)
R9: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (16) Change to stripe color A.
R10: ch 1, sc in next 12 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 2 st, sl st to close (15) Change to the sweater color.
R11: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (15) Fasten off and stuff.

Head
R1: Using the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (18)
R4: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (24)
R5: sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around (30)
R6: sc inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, around (36)
R7-R12: Work even (36)
R13: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st, around (30)
R14: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st, around (24)
R15: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 2 st, around (18)
R16: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st, around (15) Fasten off and stuff.

Muzzle
R1: Using the muzzle color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12) Fasten off.

Embroider the nose, then sew the muzzle to the head. After that, sew the head to the torso. Make sure to orient the seam of the torso color changes towards the side, so that it will be hidden by the bear's left arm.
Sew on black beads for eyes, set wide and low.

Ears (make two)
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (18)
R4-R5: Work even (18) Fasten off.

Don't stuff the ears, but fold them flat. Sew them to the head at a curve, so they are nicely cupped.

Arms (make two)
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc around (6) Change to the sweater color.
R3-R7: Work even (6) Fasten off and sew to the torso.

Collar
R1: ch 19, turn, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 17 ch. Fasten off.

Wrap the collar around the neck of the bear, wrong side of the stitches facing outward. Secure at the back of the neck.

Legs (make two)
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2-R4: Work even (6) Fasten off and sew to the torso.
2  CROCHET / Amigurumi: Completed Projects / Cheeky little demoness (NSFW) on: July 11, 2010 02:35:33 AM
I decided to make a demoness doll after seeing the one by Vox Mortuum on Etsy. I did buy her pattern, but in the end I actually designed my own instead. After finishing, I couldn't bear to cover up her curvy figure, so I sewed on some beady nipples and called it done. Maybe I'll make her an outfit at some point, but for now, she's naughty.  Grin
 
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3  CROCHET / Amigurumi: Completed Projects / Linguine bunnybuns... From outer space! *With pattern* on: May 06, 2010 01:08:15 PM
I just love weird elongated limbs! And bunnies. So, I decided to combine the two, resulting in this threesome of rather unusual rabbity things.

I was going to just call them linguine bunnybuns, but my boyfriend insisted that they're space bunnies. So now they're linguine bunnybuns... from outer space! W00t!



They're so ickle and tiny! Bunnies always bring out my inner 3 year old.



I express color through my amigurumi... no really!  


And if you'd like to make some silly bunnies as well, here's the pattern. Let me know if you find any mistakes!

Linguine bunnybuns... From outer space!

Materials:

- One skein of yarn in the body color of your choice.
- An oddment of white yarn for the tail.
- Embroidery floss for the nose.
- Beads for the eyes.
- A hook appropriate to the weight of the yarn. I personally used fingering weight yarn and a 2 mm hook, which resulted in an 8.5 inch bunny.
- Yarn needle.
- Embroidery needle.
- Polyfill.

The ears, head, torso and legs are all crocheted as one continuous piece, starting at the tip of the first ear.

First ear

R1: Using the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (9)
R3-R7: Work even (9)
R8: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 7 st (8) Stuff the tip of the ear.
R9-R10: Work even (8)
R11: sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st (7)
R12-R13: Work even (7) Stuff some more. The rest of the ear will be so thin, it doesn't need stuffing.
R14: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next st (6)
R15-R18: Work even (6) Fasten off.

Second ear and body

Start like the first bunny ear, but don't fasten off after R18.

R19: ch 3, sc around the 6 st of the first ear, sc into each of the 3 ch made at the beginning of the round. Continue to sc around the 6 st of the second ear, then sc along the bottom of the 3 ch made at the beginning of the round. Move stitch marker. (18)
R20-R25: Work even (18)
R26: sc in next 3 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st (20)
R27: Work even (20)
R28: sc in next 4 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 9 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st (22) This is a good time to create the face.
R29: sc in next 5 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 10 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st (24)
R30: sc in next 6 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 11 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st (26)
R31: sc in next 6 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 12 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 6 st (28)
R32: sc in next 7 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 13 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 6 st (30)
R33: Work even (30) Stuff the head firmly.
R34: sc in next 7 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 14 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (32)
R35: Work even (32)
R36: sc in next 8 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 15 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (34)
R37: Work even (34)
R38: sc in next 9 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 16 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (36)
R39-R40: Work even (36)
R41: sc in next 9 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 16 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 7 st (34)
R42-R43: Work even (34)
R44: sc in next 9 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 15 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 6 st (32)
R45: Work even (32) Start stuffing the body.
R46: sc in next 16 st, move stitch marker. Skip next 22 st. Continue to work in the round over the last 10 st, to form the first leg (10)
R47: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st (9)
R48-R49: Work even (9)
R50: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st (8)
R51-R55: Work even (8) Start stuffing the thigh.
R56: sc in next 5 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st (9)
R57: Work even (9)
R58: sc in next st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (10)
R59: sc in next 7 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st (11)
R60: sc in next 3 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (12) Stuff more.
R61: sc in next 9 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st (13)
R62: sc in next 3 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 9 st (14)
R63: sc in next 10 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st (15)
R64: Work even (15)
R65: sc in next 4 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 10 st (16)
R66-R70: Work even (16) Stuff the lower leg firmly.
R71: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 2 st, around (12) Make sure the whole leg is properly stuffed before moving on to the final round.
R72: sc next 2 st tog, around (6) Fasten off, sew up the remaining hole and weave in the end.

Reattach yarn in the 23rd stitch of R45. Make sure to leave a long tail of yarn that you can use later to sew up the crotch opening.

R46: sc in next 10 st. Continue to work in the round over these 10 st, to form the second leg (10)
R47: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st (9)
R48-R49: Work even (9)
R50: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st (8)
R51-R55: Work even (8) Start stuffing the thigh.
R56: sc in next 5 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st (9)
R57: Work even (9)
R58: sc in next st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (10)
R59: sc in next 7 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st (11)
R60: sc in next 3 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st (12) Stuff more.
R61: sc in next 9 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st (13)
R62: sc in next 3 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 9 st (14)
R63: sc in next 10 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st (15)
R64: Work even (15)
R65: sc in next 4 st, sc inc in next st, sc in next 10 st (16)
R66-R70: Work even (16) Stuff the lower leg firmly.
R71: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 2 st, around (12) Make sure the whole leg is properly stuffed before moving on to the final round.
R72: sc next 2 st tog, around (6) Fasten off, sew up the remaining hole and weave in the end.

Using the crotch opening, continue stuffing the torso until it's semi-firm. Sew up the hole to finish off the body.

Arms

Start like the first ear, but fasten off after R16. Sew the arms to the sides of the body.

Tail

R1: With white, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (9) Fasten off and sew to the body.
4  CROCHET / Amigurumi: Completed Projects / Sushi friends (with patterns) on: January 31, 2010 04:55:23 AM
Last week I started working on a critter with a very elongated body. I was planning on long thin arms as well, but then I started running out of yarn. I had no choice but to do short stubby limbs, which ended up looking pretty funny! So that's how I came up with these two little guys.  

After that, I figured it would be cute to make some crocheted food to go with them. My first thought was fish, because both cats and bears love to eat fish. But that was just a little too obvious, I wanted something more sophisticated. So I made... sushi!  





Sushi friends

Materials:

For the critters:
- One skein of yarn in the body color of your choice.
- An oddment of off-white yarn.
- Black and pink embroidery floss for the face.
- Hook appropriate to the weight of the yarn. I personally used fingering weight yarn and a 2 mm hook.
- Yarn needle.
- Polyfill.
- Plastic pellets.

For the sushi:
- Scraps of yarn in black, white, yellow, pink, peach, orange, red and green.
- A bigger hook for when you use two strands of yarn at the same time. I used a 3 mm hook for this.
- Yarn needle.
- Polyfill.

Note: When switching colors, the last loop you pull through the last sc of the previous round already has to be in the new color.

Critters

Head
The head is worked in the round in rows, not a spiral. This is to make sure the color change for the muzzle lines up neatly.

R1: With off-white yarn, make 6 sc into a ring, sl st to close.
R2: ch 1, sc inc in next st, around, sl st to close (12)
R3: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around, sl st to close (18)
R4: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around, sl st to close (24) Change to the body color.
R5: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (24)
R6: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around, sl st to close (30)
R7: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, around, sl st to close (36)
R8: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, around, sl st to close (42)
R9: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next 6 st, around, sl st to close (48)
R10: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (48)
R11: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, around, sl st to close (54) This is a good time to embroider the face.
R12-R19: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (54)
R20: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 7 st, around, sl st to close (48)
R21: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (48)
R22: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 6 st, around, sl st to close (42)
R23: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 5 st, around, sl st to close (36)
R24: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st, around, sl st to close (30)
R25: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st, around, sl st to close (24)
R26: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 2 st, around, sl st to close (18) Stuff firmly.
R27: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next st, around, sl st to close (12) Stuff more.
R28: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, around, sl st to close (6) Fasten off, sew up the remaining hole and weave in the end.

Torso
The body is worked in the round in rows, not a spiral. This is to make sure the color change for all the stripes line up neatly.

R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring, sl st to close.
R2: ch 1, sc inc in next st, around, sl st to close (12)
R3: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around, sl st to close (18)
R4: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around, sl st to close (24)
R5: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around, sl st to close (30)
R6: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, around, sl st to close (36)
R7: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (36)
R8: ch 1, sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, around, sl st to close (42) Change to off-white yarn.
R9-R10: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (42) Change to the body color.
R11: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (42) Change to off-white yarn.
R12: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (42) Change to the body color.
R13: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (42)
R14: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 12 st, around, sl st to close (39)
R15-R16: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (39) Change to off-white yarn.
R17: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (39) Change to the body color.
R18: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (39)
R19: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 11 st, around, sl st to close (36)
R20: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (36) Change to off-white yarn.
R21: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (36) Change to the body color.
R22: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (36) Change to off-white yarn.
R23: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (36)
R24: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 10 st, around, sl st to close (33) Change to the body color.
R25-R27: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (33)
R28: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 9 st, around, sl st to close (30) Change to off-white yarn.
R29-R30: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (30) Change to the body color.
R31: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (30) Change to off-white yarn.
R32: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (30) Change to the body color.
R33: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (30)
R34: ch 1, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 13 st, around, sl st to close (28)
R35-R36: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (28) Fasten off.

Fill the bottom part with plastic pellets and the rest with polyfill. Sew the head to the body.

Arms (make two)
R1: With off-white yarn, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (18)
R4: Work even (18) Change to the body color.
R5-R6: Work even (18)
R7: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 7 st, around (16)
R8: Work even (16)
R9: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 6 st, around (14)
R10: Work even (14)
R11: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 5 st, around (12)
R12: Work even (12)
R13: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st, around (10)
R14: Work even (10) Fasten off.

Stuff lightly, with most of the stuffing at the bottom. Fold the tops flat and sew them to R25-R28 of the body, aimed foward a bit so the hands rest on the belly.

Legs (make two)
Start just like the arms, but fasten off after R8. Stuff the legs semi-firmly, flatten them a bit at the top and sew them to R5-R8 of the body, just below the first off-white stripe.

Bear ears (make two)
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (18)
R4-R6: Work even (18)
R7: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 7 st, around (16) Fasten off.

Don't stuff the ears, but fold them flat. Sew them to the head at a slight curve, so they are nicely cupped.

Bear tail
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3-R4: Work even (12). Fasten off.

Stuff the the tail and sew it to R4-R8 of the body, just below the first off-white stripe.

Cat ears (make two)
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 4 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (6)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (9)
R4: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (12)
R5: sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around (15)
R6: sc inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, around (18)
R7: sc inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, around (21)
R8: sc inc in next st, sc in next 6 st, around (24) Fasten off.

Don't stuff the ears, but fold them flat. Sew them to the head at a slight curve, so they are nicely cupped.

Cat tail
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3-R5: Work even (12)
R6: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 7 st (11)
R7-R8: Work even (11)
R9: sc in next 6 st, sc next 2 st tog , sc in next 3 st (10)
R10-R11: Work even (10) Stuff the tip of the tail.
R12: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog , sc in next 4 st (9)
R13-R14: Work even (9) Stuff more.
R15: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 7 st (8)
R16-R17: Work even (8) Fasten off and lightly stuff the remainder of the tail.

Sew the tail to R4-R8 of the body, just below the first off-white stripe.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Makizushi (sushi roll)

R1: With green or pink yarn, make 6 sc into a ring, sl st to close. Switch to white.
R2: ch 1, sc inc in next st, around, sl st to close (12)
R3: ch 1, sc inc in next 2 st, sc in next st, around, sl st to close (20) Switch to black.
R4-R8: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (20) Switch to white.
R9: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (20)
R10: (sc next 2 st tog) twice, sc in next st, around, sl st to close (12) Switch back to green or pink. Stuff firmly.
R11: sc next 2 st tog, around (6). Fasten off, sew up the remaining hole and weave in the end.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tobiko sushi (sushi roll with flying fish roe)

R1: With orange yarn, make 6 sc into a ring, sl st to close.
R2: ch 1, sc inc in next st, around, sl st to close (12)
R3: ch 1, sc inc in next 2 st, sc in next st, around, sl st to close (20) Switch to black.
R4-R8: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (20) Switch to white.
R9: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (20)
R10: (sc next 2 st tog) twice, sc in next st, around, sl st to close (12) Stuff firmly.
R11: sc next 2 st tog, around (6). Fasten off, sew up the remaining hole and weave in the end.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Nigirizushi (hand-formed rice mounts with toppings)

Rice mount
R1: With white yarn, ch 5, turn, sc inc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 2 ch, sc inc in next ch, continue to work along the bottom of the starting chain: sc inc in next ch, sc in next 2 ch, sc inc in next chain. Continue working in the round. (12)
R2: sc in next st, (sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) three times, sc inc in next st, sc in next st (16)
R3-R10: Work even (16)
R11: sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 st tog, around (12) Stuff firmly.
R12: (sc next 2 st tog, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 2 st) twice (8) Stuff some more. Fold the top flat and whip stitch together. Weave in the end.

Shrimp topping
R1: Using two strands of yarn (one orange, one peach) and the bigger hook, ch 4, turn, sc into the 2nd chain from the hook, sc in next 2 st (3)
R2-R6: ch, turn, sc in next 3 st (3)

Fasten off, leaving a very long tail for the orange strand (the peach one can be clipped shorter).

R7: To start the tail, do not turn, but insert the smaller hook into the first stitch of R6 (in other words, the opposite side from where you fastened off). Pick up the orange strand of yarn, pull through tightly and make a sl st. By doing this, you will have cinched the tail at the bottom. Continue to crochet with the orange strand of yarn to make the fins.

To make the first fin, ch 5, turn, sl st into the 2nd chain from the hook, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st. After that, work a sc into the second stitch of R6, then a sl st into the third stitch of R6.

To make the second fin, ch 5, turn, sl st into the 2nd chain from the hook, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st. To finish, sl again in the third stitch of R6, then fasten off. Use the remaining orange tail to sew the shrimp to a rice mount. Put in a small amount of stuffing as you sew on the shrimp, so it gets a bit of volume.

Tuna topping
R1: With red yarn, ch 5, turn, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 3 st (4)
R2-R7: ch, turn, sc in next 4 st (4)
R8: ch, turn, sc in next 4 st, continue sc-ing down the side, bottom, and finally back up the other side again. Fasten off. Use the remaining yarn tail to sew the tuna slice to a rice mount.

Omelet topping
R1: With yellow yarn, ch 5, turn, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 3 st (4)
R2-R9: ch, turn, sc in next 4 st (4)
R10: ch, turn, sc in next 4 st, continue sc-ing down the side, bottom, and finally back up the other side again. Fasten off. Use the remaining yarn tail to sew the omelet slice to a rice mount. For this type of sushi, you also have to make the nori wrapper.

Nori (seaweed) wrapper
R1: With black yarn, ch 20, sl st to close, ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (20)
R2: ch 1, sc around, sl st to close (20) Fasten off and weave in the ends. Put the wrapper around the sushi.
5  CROCHET / Amigurumi: Completed Projects / Chilly epic fail! (and a few others) on: January 26, 2010 04:07:31 AM
I recently started on a "Chilly" doll from the well known Roxycraft pattern. When I was about halfway, I realized I wouldn't have enough grape-colored yarn to finish it! Bummer. You'd think that after 16 years of crochet using mostly the same brand of yarn, I wouldn't make such a mistake! Lips sealed

Anyway, after finishing the head and body I was left with a scrap of yarn so small, it could only be used for bunny noses. So for the arms I had to find a creative solution.

In the end I settled for a winter jacket and gloves, which seemed to fit the overall theme of the doll nicely. Phew, disaster averted!  Cheesy



Next up is this rather strange animal. I was inspired by various Japanese amigurumis I saw online, but I'm not so sure I like the result. Oh well, I like the colors and the face at least.



I also got my hands on the Rilakkuma bear crochet book and made the Mamegoma seal and the Kamono Hashikamo Platypus.





6  CROCHET / Amigurumi: Completed Projects / There is no such thing as too many kitties on: January 23, 2010 10:39:01 AM
After finishing my latest batch of amigurumi, I noticed a disproportionate amount of them were kitties! So, I might as well gather them all in one topic, LOL.  Grin

Here are some "tadpole cats". I already made a bunch before. But, the more you have of them, the cuter they look stacked and arranged together, haha. The patterns are by myself. I still have to get around typing these up some day.  Tongue



Next up, a kitty from the Japanese crochet book Amigurumi Collection Vol.2, made at my boyfriend's request.



And then, finally, the infamous Amineko! Yup, I'm a total bandwagon jumper.  Cheesy
This pattern was designed by Nekoyama: http://www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~mite/index.html



7  CROCHET / Amigurumi: Completed Projects / Ugly bunny pincushion and bag charm (with patterns) on: January 19, 2010 07:32:43 AM
Making a pincushion is a delicate task. Ofcourse, you don't want to make it so cute that you don't want to jab your collection of pointy things in it. On the other hand, you'll also want to make it look cool enough, otherwise you're reminded of your failed project every time you go crafting!  Grin

My last pincushion suffered from the latter problem, so it was time to make a new one. So without much further ado, I bring you... The Ugly Bunny!



And if you want to make your own ugly bunny, just grab a skein of obnoxiously colored yarn and get started!

Ugly bunny pincushion

Materials:

- One skein of brightly colored yarn for the body.
- Scrap of yarn in a contrasting color for the nose.
- Scraps of yarn in black and white for the face.
- A hook appropriate to the weight of the yarn. I personally used sport weight yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.
- Yarn needle.
- Polyfill.

Eye
R1: With white yarn, make 6 sc into a ring, sl st 1 and fasten off.
Embroider on a pupil with black yarn.

Body
R1: With the body color of your choice, ch 17, turn, sc inc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 14 ch, sc inc in next ch, continue to work along the bottom of the starting chain: sc inc in next ch, sc in next 14 ch, sc inc in next chain. Continue working in the round. (36)
R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next 16, sc inc in next 2 st, sc in next 16 st, sc inc in next st (40)
R3-R17: Work even (40)
R18: sc in next st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 18 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 17 st (38)
R19-R20: Work even (38) This is a good time to sew on the eye and embroider the face.
R21: sc in next st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 17 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 16 st (36)
R22-R23: Work even (36)
R24: sc in next st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 16 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 15 st (34)
R25: Work even (34)
R26: sc in next 8 st, skip next 22 st, sc in next 4 st. Continue to work in the round over the last 12 st, to form the first leg (12)
R27: sc in next st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 9 st (11)
R28: sc in next st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 8 st (10)
R29: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 8 st (9)
R30: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next st, around (6) Fasten off.

Reattach yarn in the 14th stitch of R25.
R26: sc in next 12 st. Continue to work in the round over these 12 st, to form the second leg (12)
R27: sc in next 5 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 5 st (11)
R28: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 5 st (10)
R28: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st (9)
R30: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next st, around (6) Fasten off.

Sew up the holes in the feet. Stuff the body semi-firmly through the opening in the crotch, then sew up the crotch as well.

Arms (make two)
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3-R9: Work even (12) Fasten off.

Do not stuff the arms, but fold them flat at the top and sew them to the sides of the body.

Longer ear
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3-R10: Work even (12) Fasten off.

Shorter ear
The ears are lopsided on purpose. To make the shorter ear, follow the pattern for the longer ear, but fasten off after 7 rounds.

Do not stuff the ears, but fold them flat. Then fold the bottom part in half and secure to create the crease in the ear. Sew the ears to the top of the head.



EDIT:



I also decided to make a smaller version of the bunny and use it as a bag charm!



And here's the pattern for the smaller version:

Ugly bunny bag charm

Materials:

- One skein of brightly colored yarn for the body.
- Scrap of yarn in a contrasting color for the nose.
- Scraps of finer black and white yarn for the face and loop.
- Hooks appropriate to the weight of the yarn. I personally used sport weight yarn for the body and fingering weight for the black and white details, using a 2.5 mm hook and a 2 mm hook respectively.
- Yarn needle.
- Polyfill.

Eye
R1: With white yarn, using the smaller hook, make 6 sc into a ring, sl st 1 and fasten off.
Embroider on a pupil with black yarn.

Body
R1: With the body color of your choice, ch 12, turn, sc inc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in next 9 ch, sc inc in next ch, continue to work along the bottom of the starting chain: sc inc in next ch, sc in next 9 ch, sc inc in next chain. Continue working in the round. (26)
R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next 11, sc inc in next 2 st, sc in next 11 st, sc inc in next st (30)
R3-R14: Work even (30)
R15: sc in next st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 13 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 12 st (28)
R16-R17: Work even (28) This is a good time to sew on the eye and embroider the face.
R18: sc in next st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 12 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 11 st (26)
R19: Work even (26)
R20: sc in next 7 st, skip next 17 st, sc in next 2 st. Continue to work in the round over the last 9 st, to form the first leg (9)
R21: sc in next st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 6 st (Cool
R22: sc in next st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 5 st (7)
R23: sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 5 st (6) Fasten off.

Reattach yarn in the 12th stitch of R19.
R20: sc in next 9 st. Continue to work in the round over these 9 st, to form the second leg (9)
R21: sc in next 3 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st (Cool
R22: sc in next 3 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st (7)
R23: sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st (6) Fasten off.

Sew up the holes in the feet. Stuff the body semi-firmly through the opening in the crotch, then sew up the crotch as well.

Arms (make two)
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (9)
R3-R7: Work even (9) Fasten off.

Do not stuff the arms, but fold them flat at the top and sew them to the sides of the body.

Longer ear
R1: With the body color of your choice, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (9)
R3-R8: Work even (9) Fasten off.

Shorter ear
The ears are lopsided on purpose. To make the shorter ear, follow the pattern for the longer ear, but fasten off after 6 rounds.

Do not stuff the ears, but fold them flat. Then fold the bottom part in half and secure to create the crease in the ear. Sew the ears to the top of the head.

Loop
Attach black yarn to the top of the head. Using the smaller hook, ch 60, sl st to the top of the head. Fasten off and weave in the ends. The loop is fairly long so that the bunny itself can pass through it, which allows you to tie it to your bag easily.
8  CROCHET / Amigurumi: Completed Projects / Chibi punk dollie and bunny galore on: December 10, 2009 01:53:57 AM
I was making a prototype doll from some cheap drab boring yarn that I bought for this purpose, when suddenly I had this strange idea. As foul as this color was, it somehow grew on me. It seemed like an interesting skin color for a rebellious little misfit dollie. So then I decided to make this punky doll from the yarn. She has a shaved head, with just a single wisp of brightly colored hair at the front, la Tankgirl. And she's tiny! The color changing was a challenge, LOL.



Next up, some very colorful bunnies that I made for my sister's birthday. They're from the Dutch language crochet book "Vrolijke beestjes haken", which means as much as "Crocheting cheerful critters".



And lastly, a square pirate bunny from a pattern by Tattiscuties. It's such a simple pattern, but it was just irresistibly cute, so I had to make it.  Cheesy

9  CROCHET / Amigurumi: Completed Projects / 80's amigurumi patterns (picture obese) on: June 01, 2009 04:28:22 AM
I decided to make a bunch of new amigurumi using an old pattern book and magazine from my mom.  Grin

First I made this kitten. I made this pattern before when I was twelve years old, but it came out kinda crappy. So now I made a much better version for laughs! I also gothed it up a little, LOL. The ruffled skirt and the bow are my own additions. I also made a more shapely tail, as the original was just straight.




Then I made this doll. I also made one back in the day, but I never made the dress and the bonnet. I made the original naked with the intention of dressing her up in various ways, but never got around making any clothes. Oops.   Grin

Again, I could help myself and add a bit more shaping to the pattern. I tapered the limbs, added short rows for the feet and added a little ruffle where the legs attach to the body.





And finally, this silly bunny. I made one exactly like it when I was just starting out, but I can't find it anymore. So, I decided to make a new one! These days I would probably have used peach for the nose and inner ear instead and different eyes, but I decided to keep those like the original for old times sake, LOL!

10  CROCHET / Amigurumi: Completed Projects / Monokuro Boo - black and white piggies *With patterns* on: April 29, 2009 01:24:17 PM
Hey guys and gals! Here's my latest project, Monokuro Boo. In case you haven't heard of it, check here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monokuro_boo

I decided to not just make the pigs themselves, but also some of the items that they're often displayed with. Anyway, here are the pictures:







Also, this time I was smart enough to not take handwritten notes in my native language, but write them in English and on the computer from the get-go. So here they are! If you find any mistakes or don't understand something, let me know.

Monokuro Boo pattern

Skill level: Intermediate

Materials:

- One skein of black and one skein of white yarn for the pigs.
- (Optional) Oddments of yarn in light gray, light pink, red, yellow and dark green for the props.
- A hook appropriate to the weight of the yarn. I personally used fingering weight yarn and a 2.0 mm hook.
- Yarn needle.
- Polyfill.

Note: When switching colors, the last loop you pull through the stitch before the switch already has to be in the new color.

Piggies

Body
R1: With white or black yarn, make 4 sc into a ring.
R2: 3 sc in each st around (12)
R3: sc in next st, (3 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st) 3 times, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st (20)
R4: sc in next 2 st, (3 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st) 3 times, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st (28)
R5: sc in next 3 st, (3 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st) 3 times, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st (36)
R6: sc in next 4 st, (3 sc in next st, sc in next 8 st) 3 times, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st (44)
R7: sc in next 5 st, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 st) 3 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st (48)
R8-R10: Work even (48)
R11: sc in next 6 st, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 11 st) 3 times, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st (52)
R12-R19: Work even (52)
R20: sc in next 7 st, (sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 11 st) 3 times, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 4 st (48)
R21-R23: Work even (48)
R24: sc in next 2 st. Move stitch marker. sc in next 9 st. (To form the leg, continue crocheting in the round over only the last 6 stitches. After one round of six stitches, fasten off. Leave a fairly long tail for sewing. Reattach the yarn in the first of the skipped stitches. sc in next 12 st.) 3 times. Form the last leg in the same way as the others, reattach yarn, sc in next 3 st (24)

If R24 is unclear, check out this photo tutorial by Nedrian: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=302982.msg3488811#msg3488811

R25: sc in next 2 st, (sc inc in the last stitch before the leg, sc inc in the first stitch after the leg, sc in next 4 st) 3 times, sc inc in the last stitch before the leg, sc inc in the first stitch after the leg, sc in next 2 st (32)
R26: sc in next 3 st, (sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 6 st) 3 times, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st (28)
R27: sc in next 2 st, (sc next 3 st tog, sc in next 4 st) 3 times, sc next 3 st tog, sc in next 2 st (20) Sew up the hole at the end of each leg, as well as the tiny hole at the base of each leg. Stuff body firmly.
R28: sc in next st, (sc next 3 st tog, sc in next 2 st) 3 times, sc next 3 st tog, sc in next 1 st (12)
R29: (sc next 3 st tog) 4 times (4) Fasten off, sew up the hole and weave in the end.

Snout
R1: With white yarn, ch 5, turn, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, 3 sc, ch 1, turn (4)
R2: 4 sc, don't turn at the end of the row, instead, 2 sc in the side, 4 ch along the bottom of the starting chain,  2 sc in the side (12) Switch to black yarn.
R3: In the back loops only, ss across (12) Fasten off. Embroider 2 black dots for the nostrils. Sew the snout to the body with black yarn. If your piggie is white, embroider all around the snout using back stitches, so that the snout appears to have a clean, crisp black outline. Embroider the eyes with black if the piggie is white, or with white if the piggie is black.

Ears
R1: With the same color yarn as the body, make 4 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (6)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (8)
R4: sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around (10). Fasten off. Make another ear. Sew ears to the two top front corners of the body.

Tail
R1: With the same color yarn as the body, ch 15, turn, ss in 2nd ch from the hook, ss across (14) Fasten off and sew to the body.

Big hearts
Make hearts in black, white, light gray or light pink.

First lobe:
R1: Make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (18)
R4: Work even (18). Fasten off. Leave a tail of a few inches for sewing.

Second lobe:
Start in the same way as the first lobe, but don't fasten off. Using the yarn tail on the first lobe, whip stitch the first four stitches of R4 of both lobes together.
R5:Continue to crochet around both lobes now, creating 30 stitches. If you've done this correctly, your stitch marker should be right in the middle between the lobes.
R6-R7: Work even (30)
R8: sc in next 7 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 13 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 6 st (28)
R9: sc in next 6 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 12 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 6 st (26)
R10: sc in next 5 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 9 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 4 st (22)
R11: sc in next 4 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 7 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 3 st (18) Stuff firmly.
R12: sc in next 2 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 3 times, sc in next 3 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 3 times, sc in next st (12) Stuff some more.
R13: sc in next st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 2 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next st (8)
R13: sc in next st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next st (6) Fasten off. Carefully stuff the tip, then sew up the hole and weave in the end.

Small hearts
Make hearts in black, white, light gray or light pink.

First lobe:
R1: Make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: Work even (12). Fasten off. Leave a tail of a few inches for sewing.

Second lobe:
Start in the same way as the first lobe, but don't fasten off. Using the yarn tail on the first lobe, whip stitch the first three stitches of R3 of both lobes together.
R4:Continue to crochet around both lobes now, creating 20 stitches. If you've done this correctly, your stitch marker should be right in the middle between the lobes.
R5: Work even (20)
R6: sc in next 5 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 8 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st (18)
R7: sc in next 4 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 7 st, sc next 2 st tog, sc in next 3 st (16)
R8: sc in next 3 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 4 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next st (12) Stuff firmly.
R9: sc in next 2 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times, sc in next 2 st, (sc next 2 st tog) 2 times (8)
R10: sc in next 2 st, sc next 2 st tog, around (6) Fasten off. Carefully stuff the tip, then sew up the hole and weave in the end.

Apple

R1: With red yarn, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next st, around (18)
R4: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (24)
R5: sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around (30)
R6-R8: Work even (30)
R9: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 8 st, around (27)
R10: Work even (27)
R11: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 7 st, around (24)
R12: Work even (24)
R13: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 2 st, around (18) Stuff semi-firmly.
R14: sc next 2 tog, sc in next st, around (12)
R15: sc next 2 tog, around (6). Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Pass the yarn from the bottom middle to the top middle, draw tightly. Then pass the yarn back to the bottom, draw tightly. Repeat to make sure the shaping holds. Tie off and weave in the end.

Stem and leaf:
 
With dark green, ch 5, turn, sc in 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in next st, dc in next st, sc in next st, ch 4, turn, ss in 2nd ch from the hook, ss in next 2 st. Fasten off, sew to the top of the apple.

Pear

R1: With yellow yarn, make 6 sc into a ring.
R2: sc inc in next st, around (12)
R3: sc inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, around (15)
R4-R5: Work even (15)
R6: sc inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, around (18)
R7: Work even (18)
R8: sc inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, around (24)
R9: sc inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, around (27)
R10: Work even (27)
R11: sc inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, around (30)
R12-R14: Work even (30)
R15: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 3 st, around (24)
R16: sc next 2 tog, sc in next 2 st, around (18) Stuff semi-firmly.
R17: sc next 2 tog, sc in next st, around (12)
R18: sc next 2 tog, around (6). Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Pass the yarn from the bottom middle to the top middle, draw tightly. Then pass the yarn back to the bottom, draw tightly. Repeat to make sure the shaping holds. Tie off and weave in the end.

Make the stem and leaf in the same way as with the apple.
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