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1  Re: Need new wardrobe...revamp my current selection? 40s-60s era in Clothing: Discussion and Questions by Dolores on: August 28, 2005 06:51:38 PM

This is the nearest I can find a) with capri pants, b) nearest your size (you're not chubby, just those old-time gals were veeeeery skinny!)...anyway, I'm thinking it's a good place to start, especially the middle top and the middle & far right pants...gonna look great with those cat's eye glasses....

Don't even know if all the bits are there, but if you'd like it, pm me with your details & I'll send it to you...on condition that when you've done with it, you post it back on craftster so someone else can have a go with it! Wink
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2  Re: pattern drafting - what tools do i need? in Clothing: Discussion and Questions by Dolores on: August 27, 2005 01:48:55 PM
See if this helps...if you can download it, you can print it out, stick it to some card & away you go.....

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3  Re: Chloe Jacket Obsession in Designer Clothing Homage by Dolores on: August 15, 2005 09:11:28 PM
oh my lord i just had a fashiongasm!!!!!!!

 ;)LOL, glad it had the desired effect!

thats amazing! i want one...want to make one??? lol jk

but seriously pattern? is there any way to obtain?

Well, at the risk of coming across as a baaaad girl who is trying to get free ads for her business(I'm really not, I've booked a paid-for series of ads on craftster, honest!) I can say, yeah, I've done the pattern as part of the range for my new dressmaking pattern business, which is due to launch in a few weeks...if I don't collapse with exhaustion first, LOL..

After being obsessed with designer clothes forever, but never being able to wear them (I'm a size 16...ever seen any designer goodies in anything bigger than a 12? No, me neither..) I thought I'd do something about it.....so I've done a range of stuff 'inspired' by Chloe/Marc Jacobs/Dior/Miu Miu etc...here's the envelope illustration


The site isn't live yet, but I'll post when it is.

Sadly, this now means that my designer clothes obsession will be regularly fed (oh dear, it's an addiction, I can't help it) because for the first time I will be able to have whatever patterns i need....lunacy!
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4  Re: Series of Unfortunate Events Costumes in Designer Clothing Homage by Dolores on: August 09, 2005 06:30:06 AM
I for one would love to see it. So far I have found a few patterns that are pretty close, but would still have to be altered a fair bit.

Ok, here it is.....

please note, I'm not trying to sneakily get free advertising for my new business...I've actually booked a series of ads here on craftster as well as other sites & magazines....

Anyway, hope you like it, the body is *reasonably* simple, it's a basic Princess line coat, I've raised the waist slightly and kept the flare of the skirt controlled. The back pleat is just to give walking ease when it's worn.
The collar was a b***h to draft, and will be a tiny bit fiddly to do, but it's one of those things that, once you've worked out how to do it, the actual 'doing' isn't so bad.
The sleeves...oh man, they were VERY tricky to draft...it's a 2-piece coat sleeve! With a raised & gathered head! And a flared hem! They  needed a lining and facing pattern! I'm just glad it's done.....

Anyway, thought & opinions would be very welcome...but please be nice, I've been working like a maniac on this site for the last few months, 16 hour days, weekends, you name it, so I'm feeling a bit fragile!

Oh yeah, FWIW the site won't be live till the first week in September.
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5  Miu Miu skirt, anyone? As easy or as hard as you like..... in Clothing Sewalongs by Dolores on: August 07, 2005 01:40:54 PM
Stumbled across this ultra-gorgeous Miu Miu skirt (in the line of work, I hasten to add) and I thought...oooh, that would be great for a sew-along. You can see from the pics that it's basically a pencil or very narrow A-line skirt (so not too tricky there) with a waistband, gentle gathers at the waist, and patch pockets. But check out that BEAUTIFUL embroidery!

Anyway, here's my thoughts....we could do any kind of pencil or A-line skirt -personally I'll be doing a slightly drop wasited one, without a waistband because that's what i look good in-, with or without the wasitband, with or without the pockets..I think you see where i'm going here....and the flowers -actually any shapes, leaves, hearts, you name it...could be any medium you liked....print, paint, stencil, applique, embroidery, whatever.

So whaddo y'all think? Are you in, or will I be the only Craftster swanking along in my lovely new skirt, inspiring envy wherever I go?

I'm suggesting we set a rough deadline of end of September to complete it...that way we all have something yummy to wear SOON


PS...just had a look at www.fashionfabrics.com , where they have some lovely rich purple fabrics (if you want to re-create this skirt as near as poss)..prices from $4.00 a yard for poly suede to $$8.00 a yard for gabardine...you only need a yard for this skirt, plus lining, a zip, and your trims...so let's see, about $25 ( if we're being generous) to make one, or $1550 (yes, one thousand, five hundred & fifty dollars) to buy one...hmmm, lemme see, what to do, make or buy, make or buy....
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6  Re: Coach Soho Ocelot Wristlet in Designer Clothing Homage by Dolores on: July 23, 2005 04:52:52 PM
Ok, had a good look on the Coach website, and here FWIW is a small but perfectly formed tutorial...I suggest yo make up your pattern on paper first, and assemble all your supplies too, apart from the ocelot print...I think I may know where to get it online, but you'll need to give me a day or so...by which time you'll have your pattern ready to go!.

So this lovely little bag measures 6 1/2" long by 4" high ( a lot of cash for not-a-lot-of-bag IMHO!!!) so you want to draw a regtangle with those measurements. At the bottom of the rectangle, add a horizontal line out from each corner, about 1/2" long (trust me on this!). Join this longer bottom line to the top line with new angled side lines. Now, at the bottom ( again!) you need to curve the corner off, so it looks like the picture...you can use a cup or mug to draw around. Just do this in one side till you are happy with the curve-not too curvy, not too flat-when you have it as you like it, fold the paper pattern in half and trace your lovely curve onto the other side. Now open it up again and ADD SEAM ALLOWANCES...I'd suggest the standard 5/8" or 1.5cm if you're metric, on all sides.

And now, as is my lovely husband's habit, he is about to serve dinner so i'll be back to continue this later!

so here's a little pic of what your pattern should look like.........and when I drew it up, I did it actual size, and I'm AMAZED at the cost of this little tiny bag!

You also need to prepare the bottom corner pieces...again,trace off your basic pattern and draw your desired curves on. You only need the seam allowances on the bottom & side edges here as the curved bit isn't going to be turned under (hooray!)

Ok, now you have your basic shape, and you'll use this to cut out your fabric, your backing (which should be a stiff-ish canvas type, as you can't fuse interfacing to faux skins) and your lining. You need to cut 2 of each fabric. Cut out your curved bottom pieces too, you'll need 4 of them, I suggest you use pinking shears if you can on the curved edge as it will give a nice looking finish.

First, assemble your lining...in my sketch, I've suggested you put a pocket in (for your credit cards, ha ha!) so cut a rectangle in lining measuring 5 1/4" by 4 1/4", and press down 5/8" allround. Hem the top (long) edge and press. Pin the pocket about 1/3 of the way down one of your lining pieces, and sew it on about 1/8" away from the edge...sounds tricky but if you pin it in place you'll be fine!

Now mount the print fabric onto your backing fabric...this basically means that you lay one flat on top of the other, seam all round the edges about 1/4" in so the 2 fabrics become 1. Don't skip this, if you do it without backing it will look SAD. You'll end up with the front & back pieces ready fro the next step. Next you will need to put on the corner bits....lay them on your prepared pieces so they go right up to the edge of your seam allowance. If you are using a faux suede for this bit, you cANNOT pin it as the hole will be there forever..same goes for sewing it, once that needle is in, you have a needle hole there for ever. So maybe a few dots of glue to hold it down, then CAREFULLY sew the curved edge down about 1/4" from the curved edge.

You will also need a little loop of fabric to go in on one side seam-this is what the strap is attached to at one end. See the sketch for where it should go...about 1" down from the top edge (measure 1 5/8" down, as you have a seam allowance!) Use your faux suede for this as you just need to cut a strip about 1/2" by 3", fold it in half and stitch it onto the side seam 1/4" in.

Put in your zip next (feel the fear & do it anyway!).. I suggest you buy one at least 1" longer than you need, so you can put a tag at the bottom...just 2 tiny triangles of your faux suede, sandwich the bottom of the zip between them, glue in place & stitch around the triangle if you want...this means you don't need to seal the bottom opening of the zip! Put the zip in as my sketch, so the 2 sides of the bag lay open. When the zip is in, turn the bag so the right sides are together, and seam the sides. Clip the curves  (take tiny pie-sliced shaped bites out of the seam allowance, but don't snip into your deam!) which helps it turn out a nice shape. You should be able to press your faux fur at the seams but check the manufacturers instructions.

All you have to do is seam your lining together (as the bag itsealf), press the seams open, and as you say you are a beginner, I'd suggeat you press down the top seam allowance on the lining and just carefully hand sew it onto the inside of the bag, amybe along the line of sewing that hold the zip in?

To finish it off, you need to gat a G-clip ( i think that's what they ar called) and make a long strap to attach it to. You loop the other end through your little side loop and sew the strap ends together. Then prepare your bow, add a glitzy rhinestone button or earring to the center of it, and stick it on the bag.

I've had a bit of a brainwave re the fabric tho.....try doing one in felt, you can just but some ivory squares of felt & paint/stencil/sharpie them with the ocelot pattern...you'll get a great result & you can treat it as a try out before you get your faux skin! Use black or brown felt for the corner bits, zip tag, and bow, and buy some matching cord for the loop & strap....no fraying, easy peasy!

sorry to have rambled a bit, pm me if anything isn't clear, and get cracking so we can see a pic!
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7  Re: Lets make a jacket! **Updated with round one photos** in Clothing Sewalongs by Dolores on: June 30, 2005 07:42:46 PM

Finally! Posted this on the Designer homage board too, I'm soooo pleased with it, still have to hand finish the lining & sew on the buttons but hoorah! Done!
And we won't even discuss the wretched lining or sleeve issues on this one, because we won't be making those mistakes again!

PS Starlene... your jacket looks great, the girls look marvellous, if you've got it, flaunt it.....
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8  Chloe Jacket Obsession in Designer Clothing Homage by Dolores on: June 30, 2005 06:15:38 PM
Ok, I'll admit, I've been somewhat obsessed by this jacket

It costs $2,220 to buy...which is obscene, it's a jacket, not a kidney!

So I made one:

Here's the back:

It's not quite finished yet, I've got to hand finish the lining & sew on the buttons but apart from that, it's done...and frankly so am I.

I foolishly ignored 2 of my golden rules...and boy, did I pay the price!

1) I didn't make a muslin! Why oh why didn't I make a muslin?Huh In my defense, I did the pattern with my groovy new software, as a sewing test to check that the patterns were coming out as they should. So the bodice went together perfectly, so did the collar, so i was lulled into a false sense of security until I came to the sleeves...or should I say, the Great Sleeve Disaster of 2005. Won't bore you with the details, suffice to say I will be making a muslin for EVERY GARMENT I MAKE IN FUTURE.

2) I always try to use the lightest weight of everything...so china silk lining, lightweight interfacing, etc. In this bizarre town I've landed in, the fabric shops...wait for it...don't have white or off-white lining!!!! Gasp! So I ended up using a very lightweight muslin to line & mount the pieces...as a result, this lovely jacket will remain unworn until the winter, as the muslin lining makes it too darn hot for Florida's current weather-bah! I'll be buying basic lining colors of china silk in bulk from now, that's for sure.

Anyway, comments, suggestions, all welcome! Whaddya think?
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9  Re: Tiered Gypsy Skirts in Clothing Sewalongs by Dolores on: June 29, 2005 09:20:56 AM

Oh if i had a cat I'd kick it! lets hope this one works! And I hope you can see it, and I've made myself clear.....oh well, WTF, let's see!

Well after all that hoo-ha you can't see the darn thing so here goes!

I'm assuming the following...you want an elastic waist skirt, and your hips are 40", and we'll add 2" ease, to give 42"(if your hips are different, just divide the hips+ease by 3.14.....see, you knew math would come in handy one day!)....so we use hips+ease divided by 3.14 which gives, for this example, 13 3/8"...this is the radius. Let's say you want each tier to be 5" deep. Here is what you do.

On a large piece of paper, draw a line ACROSS 5"(tier depth)+13 3/8"(radius), them mark a point at the end, this is your center point. Then reverse it, so continue the line 13 3/8"+5". So you will have a long line measuring 37 1/4", with marks at 5", at 18 3/8", at32 1/4" and at 37 1/4". At your center point, now draw a line DOWN 13 3/8"+5". Now use a compas/ruler/piece of string attached to the center point and create a half circle, going through all the 13 3/8" points. Now do one going through the 5" points. You should end up with 2 half circles, one a bit inside each other, and connected by the first long line you drew. This is your pattern piece, add 1/2" seam allowances around all edges & you're good to go to the next stage....

You will have 1 of these pieces for the top tier, probably 2 for the second tier, 3 for the next & so on BUT I havn't calculated this SO be prepared to cut more than you think! Also be prepared to trim off excess on each tier if neccessary. If you have a serger this will be easy-peasy, if not what the hell, go for it anyway. I suggest you cut out 6 of these to begin with in a scrap fabric, just so you see how the tiers fall. If you want a full circle pattern (which means more cutting & more fabric, but also more fullness) just take your radius as above and half it, then generate your pattern that way. Obviously, light or soft fabrics will be best for this skirt...it will be horribly bulky in heavy tweed or velvet!!!!

Ok, all you do is, piece your tiers together, no gathering, just sew the outside edge of your top tier to the inside or radius edge of the next tier down. When you get your desired length, you'll ahve a kinda buckled half circle...sew up the center back seams, hem it and add an elastic casing (trust me, you can't just forl over the top on this one.) Cur a regtangle measuring 42" (hips + ease) + seam allowances, so say 43", by 2xelastic+seam allowances, so say 2" for a 1/2" elasticated waistband. Seam together the short ends, fold it over legthways and sew onto the waist...don't forget to leave a hole to thread your elastic through! Sew up the hole, press it all out and try it on, then prance around in front of your mirror, shouting "Damn, I look GOOD in my groovy new Prairie Skirt!"

And please post pics!

Huge thanks to erindezeeuw and delziela for their idiot-friendly posting tips...hope this goes some way to repaying you!
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10  Re: Tiered Gypsy Skirts in Clothing Sewalongs by Dolores on: June 29, 2005 09:16:16 AM
ooooh I'm so hoping this works........and if it doesn't, I'll just type out the darn method.....damn technology & my middle aged brain!
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