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21  Re: Stitching is puckering on lightweight fabric in Sewing in General: Discussion and Questions by Sew-Classic on: November 12, 2008 06:35:39 PM
The presser foot pressure is DEFINITELY adjustable on your Featherweight.  Turn the adjustment screw clockwise for more presser foot pressure and counter-clockwise for less.




As far as the taut sewing technique, you don't want to pull on the fabric in such a way that will complete with allowing the machine to feed the material.

Threads Magazine has a Great "How-To"  article in PDF format called "Drivers' Ed for Sewing Machines".  It explains the taut sewing technique very well and even has photos to help.   It's free.
http://www.taunton.com/promotions/pdf/Threads_DriversEd.pdf

Do you have a manual for your featherweight?  It actually covers much of this.  Here is a link to a free manual for your machine:
http://www.ismacs.net/singer/manuals/221K.pdf

As a general rule, the heavier fabrics are sewn with a longer stitch, and lighter weight materials are sewn with a shorter stitch. 
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22  Re: needing a manual *edit* okay I think I see the issue now... um, help! in Sewing Machines: Discussion and Questions by Sew-Classic on: November 10, 2008 02:51:07 PM
We are talking about two different things here.

1.) Needle sizes- smaller needle sizes have a smaller diameter to the needle and larger needle sizes have a larger diameter.

2.) Needle systems. - The vast majority of household sewing machines use the same needle system, (15x1, 130/70H). The Singer 319 was not designed to use these needles.  Industrial and specialty machines use a wide range of needle systems.  For instance, my blind hemmer machine uses a curved needle that would NEVER work in a regular, home sewing machine. Within a given needle system, there are a variety of sizes (8, 10, 14, 16, etc..)


The 15x1 and 206x13 needle systems both have a flat spot on the shank (the part you shove up into the machine).  The distance from the top of the shank down to the eye is also the same on these two needle systems.  BUT, the distance from the eye of the needle down to the pointy tip is considerably LONGER on a 15x1 needle than a 206x13.  So, if you use a 15x1 (standard home sewing machine needle) on a machine designed for a 206x13 (like the Singer 319), the tip of the needle WILL HIT AND DAMAGE THE BOBBIN CASE.

The Singer 319 take needles in the 206x13 needle system.  These are not the standard sewing machine needles you find at fabric stores and department stores.

Here is a photo of a Singer 319 bobbin case that has been used with a 15x1 instead of a 206x13 needle.




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23  Re: Let's see your sewing machine!! in Sewing Machines: Discussion and Questions by Sew-Classic on: November 10, 2008 06:04:55 AM
Quote
An old sewing machine guy strongly recommended the 600s over the 700s because the gears were still all metal.

Only the earliest 600 series were all metal.  By the time you get into the 620's, plastic gears start popping up.  There is no, single model number that can be offered as a cut off point.  It seems that as Singer ran out of metal gears at the factory, the began using the plastic ones.

I just finished a motor-ectomy on a Singer 99 that came to me as a 220v model with bad wiring.  Since I'm in Ohio,  it just made more sense to convert it into a hand crank model.  The only part of the conversion that was challenging was modifying the bobbin winder to work with the small OD on the spoked hand wheel (required for the hand crank gizmo).

But, this little guy is all done now.  I can just see some youngster learning to sew on this - perhaps making Christmas presents for the family or a blanket for his/her teddy bear.  No worries about the machine "running away" on them, no shock hazard - they get to be the motor!

I wrote a review of the Singer 99 on my blog.

Here's a photo of this recent project:


(click on thumbnail to see larger photo)
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