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1  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Mug and French Press Jacket on: July 16, 2007 07:51:27 PM


Mug & French Press Jacket

Size:  to fit a mug or French press with 3.5" diameter base; pattern can be adjusted to fit different sizes.
Materials:
Yarn: 1 skein Elann Peruvian Highland Wool (worsted weight 100% Peruvian wool, 109 yds/50g).  You may need more than one skein, depending on how high you want the sides to be.
Yarn subs: A smooth worsted weight yarn with good stitch definition and a little bounce; suggested subs include Cascade 220, Cascade Sierra, Plymouth Encore worsted, Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride Worsted, Southwest Trading Co. Karaoke.
Needles: US 6 (or size to get gauge), 1 set dpns or two circs [dpns or 2 circs for base, 1 circ for sides (sides are worked flat but with built-in base, the flexibility of a circ is important)]
Gauge: 24 sts/32 rows = 4"/10cm
Notions: buttons (1 for mug, 2 for French press), tapestry needle

Basic concept:
Knit a circle from the center out large enough for base (80 sts).  Work sides for 1 or up to base of handle.  BO 2 or enough for width of handle.  Work in desired pattern (e.g. smocked cables) for about 3 or desired height.  BO all sts.  Make a loop closure and sew to one open side, sew button to opposite side (two for the French press)
Variations: replace smocked pattern with plain ribbing, replace smocked pattern with stranded colorwork and bands of ribbing or moss st at top and bottom

SMOCKING STITCH
(from Barbara G. Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns)
Multiple of 8 sts + 2
Rows 1 and 3 (wrong side): k2, *p2, k2*
Row 2: p2, *k2, p2*
Row 4: p2, *insert right-hand needle from front between 6th and 7th sts on left-hand needle and draw through a loop; sl this loop onto left-hand needle and knit it together with the 1st st on left hand needle; k1, p2, k2, p2*
Rows 5 and 7: Repeat rows 1 and 3
Row 6: repeat row 2
Row 8: p2, k2, p2, *draw loop from between 6th and 7th sts as before and knit it together with 1st st, then k1, p2, k2, p2*, end k2, p2
Repeat rows 1 - 8



JACKET PATTERN
BASE
kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
inc 1 = increase one = for this pattern, I prefer k1 into row below
With dpns or 2 circs, CO 8 sts.
Round 1: *kfb* (16 sts)
Round 2: *k2, inc 1* (24 sts)
Round 3: *inc 1, k3* (32 sts)
Round 4: *k4, inc 1* (40 sts)
Round 5: *inc 1, k5* (48 sts)
Round 6: *k6, inc 1* (56 sts)
Round 7: *inc 1, k7* (64 sts)
Round 8: *k8, inc 1* (72 sts)
Round 9: *inc 1, k9* (80 sts)
Round 10: p all sts (80 sts)

SIDES
Round 1 - 7: *k2, p2* (80 sts)
In the next round, switch from dpns or 2 circs to 1 circ
Round 8:  BO 6 sts, sl1, p1, begin smocking pattern, end p2
Next 24 or so rows : work smocking pattern.  On RS rows, replace first two sts of smocking pattern with sl1(purlwise), p1, and end the row with p2.  On WS rows, replace first two sts of smocking pattern with  sl1(knitwise), k1, and end the row with k2.
Note: work last smocked row when sides are 1" shorter than desired, then work last 8 rows in 2x2 rib.  The mug used 2.5 repeats of the smocking pattern; the French press will probably use about 4.5 repeats.
BO all sts in pattern

LOOP: (for French press, make 2)
With dpns, CO 3 sts
Rows 1 - 28: work i-cord
BO

FINISHING
Exact placement and position of loop and button will vary depending on the design of the mug/French press.

Slip jacket onto mug or French press.  Pin ends of loop to one of the open sides and determine placement for button on opposite open side (French press will likely need two loops and buttons).   Slip jacket off and sew loop and button into place.  Weave in all ends.  To block, wash gently and then slip onto mug or French press to dry, turning mug or french press upside down.  If you are using a French press with metal components, you may wish to wrap it in a plastic bag or plastic wrap first to keep the metal dry.

Pattern is for personal use only, please!  First published on my personal blog under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.5 License.

CORRECTIONS made August 10, 2007, to instructions for sides beginning "Next 24 or so rows." 

CORRECTIONS made September 30, 2007 to instructions for base beginning Round 2 on.
2  CROCHET / Crochet: Completed Projects / Crochet Coffee Cup Cozy (16 oz) with tute on: June 18, 2007 02:17:19 PM


More of a recipe than a pattern:
For a 16 oz. takeout cup:
With worsted weight yarn and a G hook, chain 30.  Join into a ring and hdc into each chain.  Increase 2 sts every other round (e.g. inc 1, hdc 12, inc 1, hdc rem), checking the fit every once in a while, working a plain round to tighten it up if necessary. I like a cozy about 6 rounds high.  Stretchy yarns like wool need fewer increase rounds - increasing 2 sts every third round might do the trick.  If you want it to fit lower, start with a shorter foundation chain. 

On the left: Blue Sky Alpacas Dyed cotton in expresso, lemonade, honeydew, and sky.  On the right, unidentified scrap wool in pink, Blue Sky Alpacas Dyed Cotton in poppy orange. 

I gave one as a small thank-you gift to a barista who makes me awesome dirty chai lattes (chai latte with a shot of espresso).  Barista was delighted, showed it around, people made many positive comments on it.  I need to remember not to downplay my skills - sure, it's something I just whipped up with scrap yarn and an empty takeout cup...but I don't have to say that.  I can just smile and say thank you.
3  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / handspun = hat with heart (top-down beanie recipe included) on: February 11, 2007 12:06:01 AM
Just in time for Valentine's!





The hat was knit on size 13 dpns with a handspun thick/thin yarn and the heart patch was crocheted with a size K hook and handspun yarn (all yarn from Terra Bella Spun). 

For the heart, I checked out some crochet patterns from the Crochet Pattern Central Free Heart Crochet Pattern Links and worked up one that was either a coaster or a potholder; I'm not sure which - I modified the pattern a bit too.

Top-down ribbed beanie recipe:
The idea here is to knit a square by using double increases and staggering the placement every other round.  When the square is big enough, you just knit around and wind up with a circular hat!
Use any yarn you like with appropriate sized needles.  I prefer using a set of 5 dpns, although you could modify this pattern with stitch markers if you prefer one circ or two circs (in round 1, *k2, pm* should do it).
With dpns, CO 8 sts (2 sts on each dpn)
round 1) knit into the back of each st
round 2) work 1 double increase at the beginning of each dpn (I used m1, k1, m1), k to end of needle, repeat on each dpn.
round 3) *k1, p1*
round 4) *k1, p1* to last st on needle and work 1 double increase.  Repeat on each dpn.
round 5) *k1, p1*
Repeat rounds 2 - 5 until the top will fit the size you want.
A rough way to figure this out is to measure across the center (side to side, not diagonally) and multiply that by 4 to get the perimeter (which will become the circumference of the finished beanie).  For a ribbed beanie, if you want a snug fit, go for something about an inch less than the circumference of the head.  If you want a more exact fit, slip all stitches to a long piece of scrap yarn, placing markers to separate the stitches from each needle, and try it on.  To be really sure, wash and dry it before trying it on, just in case the yarn will shrink or expand a lot.

Once it is big enough to fit around, work *k1, p1* around until it's the length you want, and bind off.  I try to bind off a little loosely; you could use a bind-off specifically for ribbings, like tubular bind-off.

*edited to correct an error in taking the measurement*
4  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / 70 yds of handspun = beanie! (tute included) on: December 11, 2006 08:06:31 PM


One small skein of handdyed, handspun, thick-and-thin yarn (from Lime & Violet), US 13 dpns, and a movie.  Because I wasn't sure how much yarn I needed, I started this from the top down, increased until it was big enough, and then stopped increasing and just worked around until it was long enough.  It's on the big, soft, floppy side.  The rosettes were crocheted with leftover bits of more handdyed/handspun yarn and then sewn on.

Top-down ribbed beanie recipe:
The idea here is to knit a square by using double increases and staggering the placement every other round.  When the square is big enough, you just knit around and wind up with a circular hat! 
Use any yarn you like with appropriate sized needles.  I prefer using a set of 5 dpns, although you could modify this pattern with stitch markers if you prefer one circ or two circs (in round 1, *k2, pm* should do it).
With dpns, CO 8 sts (2 sts on each dpn)
round 1) knit into the back of each st
round 2) work 1 double increase at the beginning of each dpn (I used m1, k1, m1), k to end of needle, repeat on each dpn.
round 3) *k1, p1*
round 4) *k1, p1* to last st on needle and work 1 double increase.  Repeat on each dpn.
round 5) *k1, p1*
Repeat rounds 2 - 5 until the top will fit the size you want. 
A rough way to figure this out is to measure across the center (side to side, not diagonally) and multiply that by 4 to get the perimeter (which will become the circumference of the finished beanie).  For a ribbed beanie, if you want a snug fit, go for something about an inch less than the circumference of the head.  If you want a more exact fit, slip all stitches to a long piece of scrap yarn, placing markers to separate the stitches from each needle, and try it on.  To be really sure, wash and dry it before trying it on, just in case the yarn will shrink or expand a lot. 

Once it is big enough to fit around, work *k1, p1* around until it's the length you want, and bind off.  I try to bind off a little loosely; you could use a bind-off specifically for ribbings, like tubular bind-off.

*edited to correct an error in taking the measurement*
5  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Neckwarmer made with handspun/handdyed yarn on: December 11, 2006 07:16:43 PM


What to do with 70 yards of one-of-a-kind thick-and-thin handspun wool?  In this case, I used a circular US 11 needle, cast on about 50 stitches, and started knitting.  I did alternating rows with SWTC Karaoke (soysilk/wool, color lavender rose) because I wasn't sure I'd have enough, and knit until it was 4.5 inches wide (it's about 25 inches long).  I did simple buttonholes at one end, throwing them in randomly (there are 8 total).  I had enough left over to crochet up 8 rosettes, four of which are on the neckwarmer here, and I used a little leftover Cascade 220 for the leaves.  The big one is just decoration, and the small ones are buttons.  With the 8 buttonholes to choose from, this will fit most adults.
6  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Basic Beanie for Blythe and Pullip dolls on: October 09, 2006 10:11:37 PM


Tools & Materials
1 set double-pointed knitting needles, size US#5 or size to get gauge
1 set double-pointed knitting needles, size US#4 or one size smaller than size to get gauge
tapestry needle
A few yards of light worsted weight yarn (beanie in photo knit with Karabella Aurora Melange, color 006)
 
Gauge
5.5 sts/8rows = 1" stockinette stitch in the round

Pattern
This beanie is knit from the top down on double-pointed needles.  A variation done flat is on my blog.
For inc 1 (increase one stitch), I prefer to knit one into the row below.  Use what you prefer - make 1, yarn forward, and knit front and back are all good choices.  The pattern of increases will give straight spoke increases.

With larger needles, CO 8 sts.
1) k all (8 sts)
2) *k1, inc 1* (16 sts)
3) k all
4) *inc 1, k2* (24 sts)
5) k all
6) *k3, inc 1* (32)
7) k all
8] *inc 1, k4* (40)
9) k all
10) *k5, inc 1* (48)
11) k all
12) *inc 1, k6* (56)
13) k all
Blythe: skip to round 15
14) *k7, inc 1* (64)
15 - 26) k all
begin brim: use ribbing or other stitch pattern which will not roll.
Switch to smaller needles.
27 - 32) *k1, p1*
Blythe: BO
Pullip: if you would like a shorter beanie as shown in the photo, BO
33 - 37) continue working in pattern *k1, p1* for longer beanie

Weave in ends. 
7  CROCHET / Crochet: Completed Projects / Basic Beanie for Pullip doll (will also fit Blythe) on: July 06, 2006 10:22:52 PM

A simple crocheted beanie for a Pullip doll, using a sportweight yarn. This was a really quick project, one that's going to be easy to fancy up with appliques, ear flaps, pompons, all that sort of thing. This will also fit a Blythe doll - if you want a tighter fit on a Blythe, skip one or two rounds of increases.

Don't crochet?  Wish you could knit one?  knit pattern is here!

I used:
Peace Fleece "DK" sportweight, olive roots
crochet hook C/2-2.75mm (next time I might go up a hook size and do one less round of increases)

Make a slip knot loop and sc 6 sts into the loop; tighten loop.
begin increases
1) 2 hdc into each st (12)
2) *1 hdc, inc 1* (18)
3) *2 hdc, inc 1* (24)
4) *3 hdc, inc 1* (30)
5) *4 hdc, inc 1* (36)
6) *5 hdc, inc 1* (42)
Stop increasing. Start checking the fit after row 10 to get the length you want.
7 - 13) hdc ea st
done!
8  KNITTING / Knitting: Completed Projects / Tubular Cast-On TUTE on: November 26, 2005 09:52:56 PM
update Sept. 07: Photo links are broken!   Sad
I'm working on taking new photos but that might be awhile - there are other tutorials out there, fortunately.

TUTE for Tubular Cast-On

This is kind of a rough draft - I'm posting this tute on my weblog as backup for a pattern that I'm selling, and I want to make sure it's understandable.  The tute on the weblog is pretty much the same, except that it has photos you can click on to get an enlarged version - if I made the pics in this tute bigger, it would take forever to load.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcotcld.jpg
smooth, rounded edge
This is a great cast-on if you need a stretchy hem, especially with 1x1 ribbing. It's a beautiful, smooth, rounded edge . There is a matching bind off (still working on that tute, check out the Reader's Digest Knitters Handbook by Montse Stanley for a couple of versions). You'll need to start it on needles about 2-3 sizes smaller than the needles that will be used for the rest of the project, and will have to work it over an uneven number of stitches (you can do a decrease or increase after changing to the bigger needles if you need to). I recommend doing a swatch to determine how many sizes smaller you want to go.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcotmat.jpg
Materials:
waste yarn (mercerized cotton is my preference, anything smooth and slippery will do), about 4 times the length of the final cast-on
crochet hook (I use a size G for projects on US 5 - US 8 needles)
yarn as called for in the pattern
safety pin
knitting needles: in the size called for in the pattern for the body of the piece
knitting needles: 2 - 3 sizes smaller than the needles used for the body of the piece

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcot1.jpg
needle under the "bump"
1. With waste yarn and crochet hook, crochet a chain of at least 4 more than the required number of stitches. Pull end through and mark (a safety pin is good). There are two sides to the chain: the side that looks like a braid and the side with a row of bumps running down the center. You want the bumpy side facing up and the marker to your right.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcot2.jpg
first stitch picked up, yarn over in progress
2. Using the smaller size knitting needles, begin at the marked end and work to the left. Skip two chains (bumps) and pick up a stitch under the third bump. *YO, bringing the yarn under the needle from front to back. Pick up a stitch under the next bump. Repeat from * until you have the required number of stitches on the needle.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcot3.jpg
required number of stitches picked up

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcotbackview.jpg
closeup view: the stitches with the purl bumps are the ones knitted on the previous row]

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcotclo.jpg
in progress: stitches with purl bumps are the ones which were knitted on the previous row, and therefore will be slipped on this row

3. Work at least the first 2 rows as follows:
Row 1: *slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1* [slip the knitted stitches and knit the slipped stitches from the previous row]
Row 2: [knit the slipped stitches and slip the knitted stitches from the previous row]
repeat rows 1 and 2 as desired

4. After working the first two rows of the cuff, you can pick out the waste yarn crochet chain. Its easier if you start from the marked end of the chain - undo the last chain and start pulling the waste yarn out.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcot4.jpg
unpick the first crochet stitch

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcot5.jpg
start pulling the waste yarn

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcot6.jpg
keep pulling

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcot7.jpg
done!

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcot8.jpg
You will now switch to the larger size needles. I'm using needles made of different materials so that you can see which is the smaller needle (bamboo) and which is the larger (steel) - use whatever needles you want, so long as they are the correct size.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcot9.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcot10.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/tcot11.jpg


9  QUILTING / Quilting: Completed Projects / Two Trees quilt square on: September 23, 2005 09:26:23 PM
My contribution to the Quilts for Katrina fundraiser.  Applique with embroidery, 10 1/4" square.  I freehanded all of it but I think it's obvious I've been drooling on Japanese craft books lately.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/quiltfullview.jpg
10  NEEDLEWORK / Needlework: Completed Projects / perils of piracy on: September 19, 2005 06:16:08 PM
Just a silly little bit of embroidery, reflecting what it could really be like to have a parrot sitting on your shoulder.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/pirateshirt.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/mizunablog/pirateshirtclose.jpg

Cotton floss, a little chenille, some Noro Silk Garden yarn.  Bullion stitches, french knots, and stem stitch.
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