Yeah, she's got it right. These stitch markers would only work for knitting. They hang on the needle, in between 2 stitches.
I also crochet, so I can understand how these wouldn't work for crocheting.
What you could do to make your own stitch markers for crochet is to get earring hooks for jewelry making - the kind that hook through your earlobe and don't need a backing/don't close. Or you could get the kind that hook through the ear and have a closure (not a separate backing piece). Then you could attach a beading dangly bit. Basically, make a dangly earring!
So I was at the dollar store yesterday and I saw these:
They're toggle-style clasps used for jewellery making. 8 clasps for $1.00. I realized they'd be perfect for making stitch markers!
So I bought 2 packs of these beads as well ($1.00 each):
Here's the finished product. 8 stitch markers for $3 - with beads leftover.
For anyone who doesn't knit - those are mostly short-forms used in knitting pattern-writing. Any beads would work (the dollar store had some glass beads that had nice weight to them), but I thought the letters were cute. Wire might have been nice to string them up (except for the possibility of snagging), but I just used embroidery floss.
So the instructions for row 1 would have you believe that you are doing s1, k1 over and over until the end of the row. Whereas row 2 is s1 at the beginning and then purl the rest of the stitches. I have a feeling slipping every other stitch on row one would look quite funny!
Actually, that's how I knit my heels - slip every other stitch on the knit row, then when you turn, you purl across, just like you said above. It looks quite nice, and apparently makes it more durable. Give it a try!
Sounds like an error or confusing instructions. Yes, usually the heel flap is knit using half the stitches from the round.
For the pattern I use (knit socks from the Knitting For Dummies book), the heel flap works like this:
1st row (setting aside heel stitches): Knit half the heel flap stitches (1/4 of the total in the round) Turn your work Slip 1, purl to the end of the needle (still 1/4 of total so far) Continue purling onto the same needle for other half of heel flap stitches (1/2 of total stitches are now on one needle)
You will now work the heel flap (1/2 the total stitches) on this one needle
Heel flap: Row A (right side): (Slip 1, Knit 1)* Repeat * to end of row Row B (wrong side): Slip 1, Purl to end Repeat row A & B to the prescribed # rows/length (my pattern does A and B 10 times each for a ladies' sock)
Apparently the slip 1, knit 1 makes a more durable heel. It also looks pretty.
Once you've finished the length of the heel flap, you will turn the heel (however your pattern does that).
Turning the heel shapes a corner. This will reduce the number of stitches on your heel flap needle.
Now you will have 1/2 the total round set aside (not worked for some time), and you will have less than half the total round for your heel stitches.
The next steps will have you pickup stitches along the sides of your heel flap. After that step you will likely have more than 64 stitches. At this point you will be knitting the full round again, with nothing set aside, and you will likely be doing some decreasing in the next few rounds. My pattern has me decrease back to the original number of stitches (64 in your case) and then work the foot part.
Hope that's helpful. I think even simple patterns can be made more complicated by the writing.
It really depends on how big you want the quilt to be, and how many squares are in your charm packs (since they vary).
Start with approximately how big you want to make your quilt. Crib size, lap size, twin bed, double bed.... etc.
One block of disappearing nine-patch is made using 9 squares. If those squares are 5" square, you will get a 13.5" square block (1/4" seam allowances). So, figure out how many 13.5" square blocks you'll need to make the quilt size you want.
I'm planning a disappearing nine-patch using charm packs. It's going to be a throw/lap-sized, and I'm thinking it will be 54" square. That's with 4 charm packs of 36 5" squares per pack. 1 pack of 36 charm squares will make 4 disappearing nine-patch blocks. I'm planning on doing 4x4 blocks, so that's 16 blocks - hence, 4 charm packs.
For the backing fabric, you can sketch out the layout of piecing the fabric to figure out how much you will need. This will depend on if your backing fabric has a certain orientation (i.e. the pattern has a "top" that you want facing "up"). It's easier and requires less fabric if your backing has no specific orientation. It also depends on the width of the fabric (46" width or 60" width, etc.)
If you have a specific size of quilt you want to make, and know how many squares are in your charm packs, I can help you out with quantities.
Here's an excellent tutorial on methods of doing a curved hem. I think this will really help you with tucking the edges under before hand appliqueing. I saw someone post this in General Sewing awhile back, and I immediately thought of it when I saw your post.
I'm thinking the second method will work well for you. Go to "Step 7" to see the start of the second method. You could use this method for tucking/pressing the seam, but skip "Step 10" which is the top-stitching of the hem - this is where you would start your hand appliqueing.
Good luck! Look forward to seeing the finished piece!