Gosh, I *really* need to finish this project! I got discouraged after my gauge snafu, but I think it's going to turn out fine. I just need to apply myself!
Here's how I knit it in the round--I cast on 2 stitches less per side, so a total of 4 stitches less to account for the lack of seaming. I used 24" circulars to knit it in the rounds, then when I got to the armpits, I put the back on a strand of scrap yarn. I kept knitting the front on circulars, but knit back and forth instead of in the round. Then after binding off the front (it's a little tricky, so don't do it over a nice glass of chardonnay!), take the back off the scrap yarn and finish it. Then all you have to do is seam up the shoulders!
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have anymore questions!
Beautiful scarf! I just made one of those too, but I used Rowan Polar (I had some left over from my cardigan!) I was a little disappointed with how much it rolled, and I didn't have time to block it before giving to my father in law! I'm glad to hear that it does flatten with blocking.
It's great to see that everyone loves this book as much as I do! I just started the hourglass sweater in hot pink baby alpaca, but haven't been accomplishing much--I'm on vacation!
Thanks all, for the very nice comments! I just now got a chance to read this thread again.
In answer to the questions posted, it took about 9 balls of Polar. Pricey, I know, but this sweater is really well worth it! I've been cuddled up in it everyday since I arrived here in frosty Maine.
I didn't put buttons on it, but the pattern does call for them. I like it open, but I think it would look really pretty with them too!
Glad you all are enjoying the Yarn Girls book! It really is a useful one to have for simple patterns. Though I admit, the examples in the book aren't always my cup of tea, but they're all easily adapted with different yarns and such.
Yikes, everyone! I've been sequestered in Maine and just now saw all the drama that has been going on in this thread. I must say, I feel a little guilty for starting it now that all this hoopla has ocurred.
I would just like to say that it was my admiration for this simple little pattern that made me want to share my results with my fellow craftsters, I really had no evil intentions! I'm sorry that this all got so out of hand.
Thank you, Leah, for clearing it all up and letting us know how to handle these things in the future.
Oh, I just thought of a couple more things I noticed about Polar:
1) This is not a great yarn to do seaming with--it wears thin while being used to sew with, and then starts to break! Yikes. If I make another project with Polar, I will sew it with a more durable yarn, like Lamb's Pride or something.
2)When weaving in ends, I recommend weaving them into the seams instead of into the body of the piece (there's a good explanation of how to do this well in the book "Knitting in Plain English"). I noticed that my ends have started to pop out because the yarn is so soft and silky, it doesn't stick to itself well.
xmelinda, congrats on your first project! I didn't have gapey holes, and I'm starting to wonder if that's affecting people who aren't using thick to thin yarn like Point Five? Who knows, that may even affect the gauge and size intended if you use something that's consistently thick. Just a thought. (Plus, it's harder to see stitches in a yarn like Point Five--for better or for worse!)
I just knit another one of these suckers this morning and came to a couple new conclusions:
1) If you wanted to knit this in the round, I would use a 16 inch circ, and then cast on 39 stitches, instead of 40. This will help account for the seaming, and won't affect the decreases at all. As the pattern is, at the end of a decrease round, you have one more stitch to knit, to create an edge stitch to help you when you seam. You don't need that if you're knitting in the round. Just make sure you place a marker at the beginning of the round.
2) I definitely recommend securing your yarn after you run them through your final stitches and pull real tight. I usually just make a little knot, like one you would make if you were sewing, by pulling your needle through a couple little bumps on the inside, and then making a knot before you pull it all the way through (Does that make sense?). Then knit your mattress stitch down the back, and make another little knot on the inside.
Thanks! I love American Apparel--even after reading that article in Jane a year or so ago about how sleazy and creepy the president of that company is (Did anyone else read that?!).
I've also noticed that the sizing on the women's clothes runs REALLY small. I originally orded mediums, and I was seriously busting out of it (*not* a problem that I usually have!), so I exchanged them for the large.
But, small prices to pay for knowing that they're not made in sweatshops.
Yes, I would say that the gauge was affected after I blocked it--the stitches really opened up and spread out, so that the fabric seemed more thin, silky, and drapey, rather than thick and chunky. In the case of this slightly oversized sweater, it was definitely a positive thing, though I'm very glad I went down a size from what I would usually make. If you're thinking about making something more fitted with Polar, I would make a smaller size, and maybe even go down a needle size or two.
mojisha, I haven't tried that yarn. Let us know if you try it!