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1  Re: Easy to crocheted tote( with pattern) in Crochet: Completed Projects by Bookaholic on: August 15, 2011 10:54:06 PM
Greetings! Loved the pattern so much I went ahead and made a pillow too!



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2  Pop tab wallet in Purses, Bags, Wallets: Completed Projects: General by Bookaholic on: July 12, 2011 06:16:45 PM
I used these instructions to join the tabs, then made the lining from the last remnants of a cheap fabric I got a long time ago (actually the second attempt at a lining, since the first one I made was too big! That's what I get for not taking the FOLDED wallet measurements  Tongue Too bad, since the first lining had card slots and an ID window. Oh well. Guess I'll just have to make another wallet...)





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3  First dress-- fitting bust area in Clothing: Discussion and Questions by Bookaholic on: July 09, 2011 10:05:41 PM
I've only done skirts before, so this is a little daunting...

I'm using a New Look pattern (this one). Problem is, it's sized for a B cup and I'm a DD...

I know that if your measurements don't match up exactly, you're just supposed use the larger size where you're larger (i.e. my 40" bust) and the smaller size where you're smaller (my 29" waist). Since I'm a little leery of cutting out the fabric right away, I'm using muslin to make a mockup of the bodice and I've gotten this:


However, if you look at the bottom edge, it's still sort of big...



Should I do darts? Gather the bottom when I attach the skirt? Do nothing?
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4  Re: FINGERLESS GLOVES in Knitting: Discussion and Questions by Bookaholic on: January 11, 2011 07:26:12 PM
The purpose of the gusset is to make room for your thumb because your hand isn't perfectly square, the thumb sticks out.


(please excuse my abominable paint skills)

When you're knitting the gusset, you'll mark the spot where the thumb will be with stitch markers. Outside of those stitch markers, everything is knitted normally. INSIDE the stitch markers, you're going to do increases along the edges.

This is how I like to do the gusset:

R1: K2, place marker, K2, place marker, K rest of the row
R2: K2, slip marker, inc 1, K2, inc 1, slip marker, K rest of row
R3: K all, slipping markers as necessary
R4: K2, slip marker, inc 1, K4, inc 1, slip marker, K rest of row
R5: K all

Continue this pattern until you have 14 stitches in between your markers. Have scrap yarn ready.

Next R: K2, remove marker, K1, slip 12 stitches onto the scrap yarn, K1, remove the other marker, continue knitting.
Finish the glove, slip the 12 thumb stitches from the scrap yarn onto your needles, pull up 2 more stitches along the top of the hole, and knit in the round until the thumb is as long as you want.

If you'd like more help, send me a message!
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5  Preventing the edge of hats from rolling up? in Knitting: Discussion and Questions by Bookaholic on: January 11, 2011 07:01:05 PM
I know that the most common way is to knit the edge in rib. But for this hat, I didn't...


It's not a big deal, but it is kinda annoying... Should I just unravel and re-knit the edge?

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6  Pipe cleaner tree. Woot. (link to tutorial) in Winter Holidays by Bookaholic on: December 12, 2010 09:49:04 PM


I have the tutorial in pdf form but don't have it in a form I can post here as of yet. and now a link to it here and here

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7  My first successful brim hat in Knitting: Completed Projects by Bookaholic on: November 17, 2010 10:52:56 AM




I needed something for the morning commute that would keep my ears covered. I've seen lots of cute brim hats but I'm on a budget and really didn't want to spend money that could be spent on coffee instead when I could make my own!

After pulling the first three attempts apart, I'm really happy with this one.
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8  Re: Redshirts, set your phasers to stun! in Halloween Costumes by Bookaholic on: October 09, 2010 08:55:59 PM
OMG!!!!!!!!!!! I was a red shirt last year tooooo!!!!

I did kinda mash series together because I was a Trill (from voyager, just because the makeup was so freaking awesome) with a TOS uniform. But nobody knew the difference anyways... I got asked twice if I was Spock Tongue

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9  zipper + lining: which order? in Purses, Bags, Wallets: Discussion and Questions by Bookaholic on: September 06, 2010 03:38:39 PM
I have knit and felted the pieces for a hobo-style bag that will have a zipper across the top, a pocket on the side and will be lined as well.

I know that obviously I should be installing the zipper across the top before I sew the bag together. However, do I sew the zipper to the lining, or sew it to the purse and then attach the lining afterwards? Same goes for the pocket.

(I actually already basted the side zipper in place, but I can easily remove it)


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10  My first non-pattern amigurumi ETA: now with pattern (ish) in Amigurumi: Completed Projects by Bookaholic on: July 21, 2010 01:09:31 AM
And, being a newly converted Trekkie, it is only logical that I made... Spock.


http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs168.snc4/37762_1368691653205_1109100177_30954922_3301913_n.jpg


PATTERN:

[This will not be perfect, since I'm trying to recreate it from memory, so you might have to do some fudging.]

-Hook size G
-Worsted weight yarn
*unfortunately, the only one that I can give you the name of is the blue one, which was Red Heart 4-ply acrylic, Robin Blue. You also need black and tan-ish yarn.
-Black and gold embroidery thread, needle with a large eye
-thread to match the color of Spock's skin so that it won't be noticeable

HEAD:
R1) Black yarn: start off with 6 sc in a ring. (Useful knowledge: Magic ring video here)
R2) 2 sc in each crochet (12)
R3) *2 sc in 1 sc, 1 sc in next* and repeat * all the way around (18)
R4) *2 sc in 1 sc, 1 sc in next, 1 sc in next* and repeat * all the way around (24)
R5) *2 sc in 1 sc, 1 sc in next 3* (30)
R6) *2 sc in 1 sc, 1 sc in next 4* (36)
R7) *2 sc in 1 sc, 1 sc in next 5* (42)
R8-10) Work even (42)
R11) You will start utilizing your tan colored yarn at this point, so have it at hand. sc 15 black, switch to tan, sc 12, switch to black, sc 15 (42)
R12) sc 14 black, sc 14 tan, sc 14 black (42)
R13) sc 13 black, sc 16 tan, sc 13 black (42)
R14) sc 12 black, 18 tan, 12 black (42)
R15) You will begin the decreases in this row.Basically, you *sc 5 and dec 1* to make your decrease. Some of these decreases will be with black yarn, some with tan. I didn't count how many black vs tan there were, so you're on your own there in terms of knowing when to switch...
**IMPORTANT NOTE: You know how on previous rows, you were making a diagonal hairline by switching yarn at an earlier point than the previous row? You won't be doing that any longer. You will switch to tan at the same point as the row beneath it, if that makes any sense (i.e. if you weren't decreasing this row, the line caused by the switch would be "straight" rather than diagonal... but, of course, since you're decreasing, it will slant a little bit, which is what we want)...**
ANYWAYS. You should have 36 stitches at the end of this row.
R16) More decreases! *sc 4 and dec 1*. Again, you will be switching colors at the same point as the previous row. 30 stitches at the end.
R17) *sc 3 and dec 1*, switching yarn at the appropriate time (24)
R18) *sc 2 and dec 1*, switching yarn at the appropriate time (18). Bind off.

LEGS + BODY:
LEGS (make 2 and do not bind off the second one, but continue on to row 9)
R1) Starting with black, 6 sc in ring
R2) *2 sc in 1, 3 sc in next* (15)
R3) Working in back loops only, work even (15)
R4-8) Work even (15)
BODY:
R9) Once you have made both legs, crochet 12 on one leg, skip the last 3, and continue the row by crocheting 12 around the top of the other leg, joining to complete the round (24)
R10-11) Work even (24)
R12-17) Switch to blue and work even (24)
R18) *sc 2, dec 1* (18)
R19) Switch to black. *sc 1, dec 1* (12). Bind off.

ARMS (Make 2):
R1) Starting with tan, sc 6 in ring
R2) *sc 2 in 1, sc 1* (9)
R3-9) Switch to blue and work even.
R10) This is only a partial row. Sc 4, then bind off. (This is so that his arms won't stick straight out)

FEET (Make 2):
R1) Using black, sc 6 in ring
R2) sc 1, sc 2 in 1, [1 hdc and 1 dc in next stitch], [1 dc and 1 hdc in next stitch], sc 2 in 1, sc 1 (10) (This makes a weird elliptical shape. Yes, it's supposed to be that way.)
R3) sc 1, sc 1, 2 sc in 1, 1 sc, 2 hdc in 1, 2 hdc in 1, 1 sc, 2 sc in 1, sc 1, sc 1 (14)
R4-5) sc all (14)
R6) 3 sc, dec 4 times, 3 sc (10)
R7) 3 sc, dec 2 times, 3 sc (8 ) Bind off.

EARS (Make 2):
Ch 5 and turn. hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sl stitch in next ch, bind off. Tie the ends of the yarn together and sew the tails behind the ears and you should get a pointy-eared Vulcan!

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the ears on. Give Spock a face. The eyes should approximately line up with the middle of the ears.

Stuff the head and body and sew together. The head hole is bigger than the neck hole, so they won't match up exactly. Stuff the feet and sew them onto the legs.
**I waited until the end, after everything was sewn onto the body, to try embroidering the insignia on, but it didn't work out well... you might actually want to do this at an earlier point. Up to you.

Stuff arms. Give Spock his Commander's stripes in gold thread. Sew arms to body.

Add any additional touches you would like.

And please, if you use this pattern, post pictures!! Tell your friends!! Spread the Spock love!
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