I finally finished this, after much frogging and experimentation. I did it without a pattern, so I was just winging it. It's a top down raglan, but I gave it a notched collar.


Yarn: 10.5 balls of Knitpicks Mainline
Needles: US 8
Time to knit: about a month
This was originally supposed to be the Something Red Sweater from Knit and Tonic, but I didn't like how that was turning out. I'm reasonably happy with this. You can see the many stops and starts of this project on my blog, in the August and September 2006 entries.
****Edited to add an informal pattern. This isn't particularly exact, but hopefully you will get the idea of what I was doing.
Red Blazer
Size
33" Bust
Materials:
11 balls of Knitpicks Mainline (82 yards/50 grams, 75% pima cotton, 25% merino wool)
1 29” US 8 circular needle
1 set of US 8 dpns (for the sleeves, you could also magic loop these)
6 0.75” buttons
Gauge;
4 stitches/6 rows per 1” in st st
The Collar:
Using the circular needles, CO 57 stitches. Work in seed stitch for 2”.
At the beginning of the next row, ktog. Work the rest of the row in seed stitch until you get to the last two stitches. Ktog.
Work the next row in seed stitch.
Repeat these two rows four more times, so that you have decreased a total of 10 stitches, 5 at each end.
Break the yarn.
The Neck:
Using the same needle you were knitting on before, CO 8 stitches. Then pick up 7 stitches along the slanted edge of the collar.
Purl across the live collar stitches.
Pick up 7 stitches along the other slanted edge of the collar, then CO 8 more stitches using a cable cast on.
Start the raglan:
Seed stitch across the first 15 stitches. Knit 2. M1, K1, M1, knit 7, M1, K1, M1, knit 25, M1, K1, M1, knit 7, M1, K1, M1, knit 2. Seed stitch across the last 15 stitches.
On the next row, seed stitch the first 15 stitches, purl until the last 15 stitches, seed stitch these last 15 stitches.
Repeat these two rows until the raglan armholes fit around your arm.
Divide out the sleeves:
Work in pattern until your first raglan increase, knit across the three raglan increase stitches (where you were doing your M1, K1, M1’s before), transfer the sleeve stitches to a holder or waste yarn, knit across the next three raglan increase stitches (where you were doing your M1, K1, M1’s before). Knit across the back until the next raglan, knit across the three raglan increase stitches (where you were doing your M1, K1, M1’s before), transfer the sleeve stitches to a holder or waste yarn, knit across the next three raglan increase stitches (where you were doing your M1, K1, M1’s before). Finish the row in the established pattern.
Work the body:
On the next RS row, begin the bust decreases. Seed stitch the first 15 stitches, then knit the next 13. Then perform a double vertical decrease: “Insert the right needle into the next two stitches as if to ktog, and slip them to the right needle. Knit the next stitch on the left needle. With the left needle, pull both slipped stitches over the stitch” (Vogue Knitting Quick Reference pg 21). Knit through the back, and do this decrease again on the other front. Work the WS in pattern (without any decreases).
Repeat these two rows once more. Then repeat the vertical decrease every four rows 5 more times.
AT THE SAME TIME work underarm decreases: one inch after dividing for the armholes, ktog 9 stitches before the armhole join, and ktog in the same manner after the armhole join. Repeat this under the other armhole. 8 rows later, ktog 7 stitches before the first armhole join, and ktog in the same manner after the armhole join. Repeat this under the other armhole. 8 rows later, ktog 5 stitches before the armhole join, and ktog in the same manner after the armhole join. Repeat this under the other armhole. 8 rows later, ktog 3 stitches before the armhole join, and ktog in the same manner after the armhole join. Repeat this under the other armhole.
AT THE SAME TIME, work three 2 stitch button holes starting 10 inches after the start of the body (measured from the neckline). These should be spaced 2 inches apart.
Work even until the body is 4.5” shorter than your intended length.
Hip increases: Work 15 stitches in seed stitch and 16 in st stitch. M1, K3, M1, knit until there are 34 stitches left, M1, K3, M1, finish the row in pattern. 4 rows later, work 31 stitches, M1, K5, M1, and then work the back and the hip increase similarly on the other front. Continue to increase in this manner two more times, every 4 rows.
End border: Work in seed stitch for 2 inches. BO.
Sleeves: Transfer the sleeve stitches to dpns. Knit in the round for 1.5”. On the next round, ktog 3 stitches before the underarm join, and 3 stitches after the underarm join. Repeat this decrease round 2 rounds later, then 4 rounds later, then 7 rounds later, then every 10th round. Continue in this manner until the sleeve is 1.5 inches shorter than intended. Work in seed stitch for 1.5 inches, then BO. Repeat for the other sleeve.
Block as desired, and sew on the buttons. Three are used as decoration, to give a double-breasted effect.
Enjoy!