Soooo it has been forever since I've posted, but I'm now going into my third year of college in Apparel Design & Development. I've had a lot of awesome classes, but one of the more intense ones was last semester when I took Advanced Pattern Development. We made tailored coats and pants! It was a really really long process from the first drape to the final product, but I'm so stoked about how it turned out. I was inspired by doors/arches/hinges, and carried that through the design with leather closures that snap on the double-breasted front, the shaped flying yoke, and the curved welt pockets. Before this class, I had never even done bound buttonholes!
But it was really, really worth it to do all the work of tailoring. All those hours of painful handstitching paid off! The coat is out of 70% Wool 30% Cashmere coating, the leather is hand-distressed, and the lining is 100% silk twill that I bought from Dharma Trading and handpainted. It is interfaced with a mixture of tricot & hair canvas. (Mostly hair canvas, and mostly fusible--the only sew-in was on the undercollar.) Um... There is a ton of twill tape and handmade shoulderpads and sleeve headers and chest pieces. If you want to read more about the making-of from pattern making to sewing, there's more here: http://www.addie-marie.com/2012/05/tailor-made.html... but enough chatter, here are some pictures!
show2 by Addie_marie This was from our school's fashion show--I (eep!) modeled my coat and a dress I'd made. I also made the jeans and chevron top in the above photo, but that's another post for another day!
In April, the Apparel Design department at my school held its annual fashion show. It was my first ever fashion show--the first time I saw a garment I had made go down the runway! It was a super exciting experience, I loved my model, and I was SO happy with how my dress turned out.
It's silk habotai, which I handpainted with Serasilk dyes.
I threw salt on for some nice variation in color, and here's what I got:
It's a basic 2-dart bodice (which I drafted) with a cute heart cut-out in front. The cummerband is pleated, and the skirt is just gathered. The fabric drapes so beautifully, I love it! It was so fun to watch it move down the runway. And my model, Cassie, was a total doll.
Me & my model after the show...
& a bunch of us who participated... friends & floormates! We're just lil freshman, but it was fun to pretend that we had a bit of the limelight, haha.
So then, for my final project in my Pattern Development class, I had to make a Little Red Dress. We were given a bunch of guidelines for the project, because the top 5 dresses were going to be selected to enter a contest in Dallas in Spring 2011. So I chose a lightweight wool fabric, and built my design around a technique I saw in one of my professor's fabric manipulation books: lattice (or Canadian) smocking. Here's what I came up with:
Hand-picked zipper.. it is disgusting how long this took me.
However. The smocking took much, much longer. Like, seven hours.
My princess seams fit! Which was super exciting for me... I fit the dress the day before it was due so I wouldn't have had time to fix it if it hadn't fit!
Finally, lace hem tape is my new favorite thing.
So... my dress was selected to go to Dallas! I am so excited. It's nearly a year away, but that gives me time to save for a plane ticket, and definitely a trip to look forward to!
A very successful second semester, I'd say. :] Thanks for looking!!
For my Apparel Construction class, we had to make a button-down shirt (with a collar & cuffs) for our final project. We had to use a pattern, so I honestly just chose the cheapest one at Wal-Mart (some New Look pattern, can't recall the number). I wish I had chosen one with a traditional neckline now, instead of a V, but ah, well. I'll wear this regardless. Anyway, it was pretty intense to make. I'd never done anything with a collar & neckband before, so doing that was difficult--but the finished product is so awesome! I love clean finishes. So much.
It has flat-felled seams everywhere but the arms, slipstitched cuffs, and 6 darts throughout. (Psst. I got an A on it! )
I also made my skirt, but that's small beans. That was out of some quilting cotton someone gave me, just a simple high waisted thing with inset pockets.
Wow, it really has been a while since I've posted here. I have been making dresses throughout the spring & summer, trying out new techniques & just generally having a good time. I made all my own patterns for everything, which is why things don't always fit perfectly, haha. But it's a learning experience!
So! From the more recent to the oldest, here we go:
This is what I do when I don't have much fabric left! I piece together scraps. I still have a few things I want to work out with the pattern, fit-wise, but I am pretty pleased with it. It has a built-in bra, adjustable straps (thanks, old bra hardware!), elastic ruching in back, and a zipper up the side.
This dress was a bit of an adventure. I hand sewed all the bias tape trim (3 movies worth!), and tried out some new techniques with it. It has horsehair braid trim along the hem for volume, which was something I'd been wanting to try for quite a while. It also has piping, which I'd never done before, and a small heart cutout (which I had done before, just not on such a small scale). It was made out of an old sheet, but I figured I'd post it here rather than split the group up.
I'm kind of obsessed with heart cutouts (& they're really fun to do!).
I actually made this skirt in January, but I went to college before I could finish the tutorial and then just plain didn't have time. I'm not amazing at editing videos, but I think it came together okay... hopefully you at least get the jist? Anyway, here's the link to the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PXiJJhzhZc
I made this dress in about 90 minutes. It was between dinner and a jazz concert on saturday evening, & I was like, "hm. I kind of want to wear something new tonight." I'd already mostly planned the dress in my head so it wasn't hard to get cruisin on it--it's just a simple top with an overlay & a gathered bubble skirt. But unfortunately, I had about ten minutes of work left on it when I had to skidaddle to keep my seat! So I finished it the next morning for church, haha. The bubble hem isn't actually permanent right now--I ran out of fabric so it's just safety pinned to a slip. I'll get some cheap fabric for the inside & fix it later.
The main dress (plum color) is a lovely rayon jersey that I got at joann's, & the stretch lace is something I've had on hand for ages, and never known how to use it.
I've become one of those people who only gets real sewing done on their college breaks. How sad. But perhaps not the worst thing, because it forces me to be productive ALL the time when I can!
Anyway, I made this dress out of some wonderfully vintage fabric I got from JoAnn's. I started making the pattern for a princess-seamed bust at about 2:30 in the afternoon yesterday, and I was finishing up the hem a little after 9. Instant gratification!
I've been finding that the more I make clothes meticulously, the more I like making them meticulously. There's such satisfaction in a cleanly pressed seam, or perfect facings, or a well inserted zipper. Mostly the pressing. Man, that gives me such a good feeling. I can hardly believe I used to hate the ironing step!
This dress is mostly self-explanatory, but: it has princess seams, a scoop neck, facings, a built-in contrast sash that ties in back, a side zipper, gathered skirt, and invisible hem.
This is a shot of our lake I got right after taking photos & I hope it's okay I shared it with you!
Eee, thank you so much for your amazing comments, everyone! I would've responded sooner, but I just started my first semester of college & suddenly my craftster time is very limited. But I appreciate the compliments so much--you made me blush & smile a LOT.
& the pocket tutorial is on the first page, in the original post. Sorry for the delay!
I love the shape of the ones that have a V-neckline and a band under the bust. if you are willing to sketch out the shapes, I would be very grateful, these are fabulous.
It looks like you simply cut up the T along the seam lines and then recut and sew them?
Thank you! I hope little paint drawings are fine. What I do is start out with a 3X (2X will work, but I have trouble fitting all the pieces in) tee, & cut out the back, & then work around with the front of the tee so I can get the placement just so for everything. The lower half of the front becomes the cross-over bust & the design the stomach; the side pocket panel usually will come from excess fabric from the back. Here's what the pieces look like:
LOVE LOVE LOOOOOVE these t-recons! Did you come up with the designs yourself? Or get them from a book? I've seen some books on recon-ing tshirts, but didn't know if they were worth the buy...
Aw, thank you! I did come up with all the designs, but when I first started reconstructing (...3 years ago, I think?) I purchased the book Generation-T. It's a good starting off point, but if you know basics, I think it's easier (& cheaper!) to just see something, & try it out on your own. Experimenting, you know?
These are really amazing! I can't get over the pockets, such a brilliant idea. And the moon shirt! What a great save!
Do you start with a larger man sized shirt, or do you use the girly tees?
Thanks! I almost always use men's tees in about five sizes larger than I need them. Threadless's Girly Tees (which are actually made by American Apparel) run really small (as in, I wear a size small shirt in almost everything & need a large/XL in their tees) & are harder to reconstruct just because there's so much less fabric!
I love love that skirt. did you make that as well? I need to do a major stash buster like that. my partner has started questioning the necessity of keeping so many fabric scraps around
I did make the skirt, indeed! Thank you! I'm actually editing a tutorial for it (which I meant to have done a week ago), if you're interested. It's fabulous for using up scraps, something I seem to matriculate like none other! The very first place I'll post it is on my blog (http://www.mateycouture.blogspot.com), & I really should have it up... soon. Maybe this weekend, depends on how much homework I can get done!
Clover shirt tutorial.... now please? I might die without it.
I would totally do one, except that it took me quite a while to figure out the right pattern & I don't know if I could quite explain it in a tutorial! (&, lack of time, unfortunately...) But, I did draw up a mini tutorial for the pocket (see the first page) which would maybe be of help to you!
This was a Threadless "Midnight Showing" tee that has an amazing, glow-in-the-dark design. I did a crossover bust & pockets... I love pockets. I haven't made my skirts with pockets (but it's one of my 2010 resolutions!) so my shirts had better have 'em!
This one was a Threadless "Poetic Irony" tee. I was super inspired by a top Taylor Swift wore in the video of her Stripped version of "Untouchable". Basically, a super puffy-sleeve, and a slick fitted style.
(My mom made my hat!)
This next one was funny. It was a Threadless "My Crony" tee, & the first shirt I'd done of this style. Everything was going along swimmingly until I tried it on to see if the fit was right, and, bam, there was this huge circle in the middle of my stomach! I laughed despite my distress, and as I was lying in bed that night, I realized the perfect fix for it--what else but a pocket?? So the mid-way uh-oh point:
& the after:
This was a t-shirt recon that I did last year, and actually don't wear very often anymore, but it's still pretty neat. I gave it an off-the-shoulder neckline, trimmed in red polka-dotted fabric, darts in front, ruching on the sleeves, and a button & loop in back to make it nice and fitted. I like the fact that you can't quite tell at first that the darts messed with the Coca-Cola logo. It's sneaky.
This is a shirt I'm not entirely pleased with, but it was my first try on a scoop back, so I can't expect perfection! I used a Threadless "Let's Go Parasoling!" tee which I had on my shelf since last year, and mint green trim that I searched for long and hard because I wanted the perfect color to match the umbrellas on the shirt. It's got a deep scoop in back & cute little ties. There are tabs at each side with little white buttons.
Whew! I was going to throw in some sheet-to-dress recons & such, but this is too long as it is! If you made it this far through my ramblings, kudos! Thank you for looking.
EDIT: Pocket Tutorial!
& because it's pretty small, you can go here [http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu90/MateyCouture/sidepockettutorial.jpg] to see it full size.
The details: it has a cropped length, swing sleeves, big cuffs, a high collar, a chunky metal off-center zipper, military-inspired tabs, and bright red polyester lining. I'm really excited about how it turned out, and I'm already in the process of reconstructing another old coat to make a similar jacket!