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1  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / 3 full aprons with pockets (pic heavy) on: August 10, 2010 08:01:36 PM
Hi everyone! I haven't posted anything (except for some swaps in the last few months) that I've made in quite a while. I think since 2005 or 2006. Needless to say, I've made a few things since then, so here are three aprons I made a while ago but never posted.

The first was made for my cousin as a present. It's got princess seaming on the top. My favorite part is the pleating on the red waistband. Let me tell you, pleating took hours...and hours. I'm sure there was an easier way to do it, but I pinned, ironed, and sewed for quite a while. The neck strap has different buttonholes so you can adjust the fit with the giant shiny black button. The black skirt part has two pleats and there are two pockets. I was rushed to take pictures before she left, so the details are hard to see (sorry!).






The second has one giant pocket at the bottom, along with a sweet potato stain from Thanksgiving. This one ties at the neck. I had fun deciding which way to lay the stripes.




The last is my favorite, but again the photos don't show much detail (sorry). The bust is gathered for a better fit. There's tiny red polka dot ruffles along the waist and where the neck strap attaches, and an even tinier orange print fabric I made into piping. The pockets have flaps (same polka dot fabric) that are closed with pretty pins instead of buttons (this was made in my days where I still feared button holes Tongue )



C & C welcome as always! Thanks for looking.
2  CLOTHING / Shoes: Completed Projects / tweed ballet flats using iheartohmy's tute! on: June 06, 2005 11:17:03 PM
First of all, thank you so much to iheartohmy for posting the wonderful tutorial for these ballet shoes seen here...http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=35344.0

I was so excited that I had to make myself a pair, and I think they'll be the perfect comfortable pair to wear on my flight this weekend.  They were a lot easier to make than I thought they would be.  I used pleather for the sole and it turned out just fine, I also lined both the sole and the tweed-like part.  I used bias tape to finish the edges, and bows and buttons for some pizazz.  Hurrah!

top


bottom


side


on my feet


off my feet
3  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / 50's half-aprons with tie-pocket PATTERN/ TUTORIAL! on: June 04, 2005 04:59:08 PM
Oh I wish I could cook!   Wink  I made these aprons a while ago just for fun (or maybe because I'm obsessed with aprons).  The lemonade one I kept, and I gave the other one to my friend for her belated birthday present.  I just freehanded both aprons, they're super simple to make. 

But if anyone wants the pattern for the adorable little tie-pockets I made, just ask and I'll post it.
Edit:   Ok guys, here is the pattern and a few instructions for the pockets.  Just make sure and print it the actual size, because I know my printer sometimes likes to sneakily resize things.  I would try making one with scrap fabric before you actually do it  Smiley

POCKET PATTERN LINK!
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/replicarter/pocketpattern3.jpg












4  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / I'm a milkmaid? Summer time dress. TUTORIAL ADDED!! Warning- Very PIC HEAVY! on: April 13, 2005 05:03:44 PM
I'll start by saying that summer is officiallly here in Arizona and it was hottt today.  I thought I should have a breezy lightweight dress to match the weather, and be able to get some use out of it before I move to Oregon in May.  I love how it turned out!  The yellow is a sort of mustard-y rich yellow cotton with white flower/wheat things, and the brown is a more heavyweight fabric.  Those round things on the straps are buttons in case you can't tell Smiley  My favorite part is the bows on the pockets.

I wore it to school today and I got some compliments, and one of them was that I look like a milkmaid, or a 50's housewife.  I'll take either Grin

I didn't use a pattern; I made it all up based on a sketch I did in Photoshop late one sleepless night.  The skirt of the dress is not as full as a circle skirt, but almost.  It twirls nicely. It closes in the back with a zipper and a bow.


Links to photos underneath in case they are too small for you

Front

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/replicarter/7a.jpg

Back

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/replicarter/4a.jpg

Side

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/replicarter/6a.jpg

Top close up

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/replicarter/5a.jpg

Pocket

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/replicarter/1a.jpg

Twirl!

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y113/replicarter/2a.jpg


::TUTORIAL:: (finally Wink )
Hey guys thanks for being so patient.  Here it is at long last!  See page 12 for my reply as to why it took so long if you wondered.


Cut your pieces out according to the pictures.  Here is what you need:
1 skirt piece
1 bottom trim piece
1 waistband piece
4 shoulder strap pieces
4 underarm trim pieces
4 neckline trim pieces (I forgot to type x4 on the picture)
1 waist front piece (under bust piece)
1 waist back piece
2 bust pieces
2 pocket bows
4 pocket pieces
some piping (1 packet)
some elastic
two buttons
22 zipper

The skirt should be a half circle with the top curve being about 2-3 times longer than you waist measurement so that it turns out ruffled like mine.  The bottom contrasting trim should be the same length as the bottom curve of the half circle.  Measure all other pieces to your body.




Hem the bottom trim and attach to the skirt with right sides together.


Cut elastic the same length as your waist.  Sew elastic to the top curve of the skirt while stretching it (this will ruffle the skirt since your skirt pieces waist is longer than the elastic).


Attach waistband piece to top of skirt by sewing right sides together through elastic and fabric.


This is how it should look so far when you turn it right side out.  Excuse the kitten.


Put two darts on both the waist front and waist back pieces, as shown.


This is how they will look with darts.


Pin and pleat both bust pieces along the bottom and sides to create a bigger cup (see next photo for placement of pleating).


Attach the two bust pieces by sewing right sides together in the middle.  Here it is with me holding it up so you can see how it should be.


Pin and sew piping to the top of the waist front piece as shown.


Attach waist front piece (along with the piping you just attached) and pin and sew it to the bottom of the two bust pieces.


This is how it should look right side out now.


Now lets go back to the skirt and waistband.  Close the skirt by putting right sides together and sewing a line down.  (This seam will go in the back and be used for the zipper later.)


Attach skirt/waistband to the top of the dress (including waist front, waist back, and busts).  To do this, pin right sides of your contrasting waistband to the waist front and waist back.  Sew.


Now attach your zipper in the back of your dress (sorry no pics of this part).  You will obviously line up you zipper with your skirt seam in the back and it will go through the middle of the waist back piece.

Now that your zipper is in place, Hem the top of your waist back piece (you will notice it is unfinished) and attach piping.  Then, sew down the ends of the bust pieces that are just flapping around to the waist back (this will make sense when you look at your own dress youre makingits hard to explain!).


Now for the straps and underarm trim and neckline trim.  You have already cut four of each shape, so take two of each and sew right sides together, leaving a small opening to flip right sides out.  Finish the opening you left after youve flipped right side out.  This picture is just an example of the shoulder strap before its flipped right side out.


Take an underarm trim piece and pin right side together to the bust and waist back pieces.  Repeat with other underam trim piece.


Take your two completed neckline trim pieces and sew a diagonal line (as shown) with right sides together.


Pin and sew neckline trim pieces to the neckline part of the bust with right sides together.  This can be a little tricky so make sure you check that its correctly placed before you sew it down.  Also sew together the neckline trim and underarm trim where they meet.


Pin completed straps to the front of your dress as shown and sew in place.


Pin and sew the back of the straps to the back of the dress where the underarm trim stops (as shown).


Sew on you buttons by hand (they dont really serve a purpose other than decorationthey dont really button anything).


Now moving on to pockets.  Take two pocket pieces and sandwich the piping in between them with right sides together.  Pin and sew in place, leaving a gap where you can flip it right side out.  After flipping the pocket, finish the gap you left.


I forgot to take pics of this part so I drew a picture  Undecided Take One pocket bow and fold in half lengthwise with right sides together.  Sew together, leaving a gap for flipping right side out.  Finish the gap you left after flipping right side out, and tie a loose knot in the middle of your strip.  Make sure this matches the width of your pocket now.  Sew to pocket.   

Repeat with second pocket.  Then just pin your pockets to the front of your dress and sew in place around the bottom!  Youre done!


Finished dress front!


Finished dress back!





If anyone needs clarification on any step or photo, just let me know and Ill try to get back to you as soon as possible!  Hope this isnt too confusing.  Good luck everyone and be sure to share what you create with all of us Smiley
5  PURSES, BAGS, WALLETS / Purses, Bags, Wallets: Discussion and Questions / Tutorial: Lovely leafy spring bag [Text Only] on: April 05, 2005 02:22:57 PM
Boy this came out bigger than I meant it to!  I kinda like it, though.  I started this bag months ago and just got around to picking out the fabric for the bottom section, and finally finished it last night.  

I lined it very quickly so the inside isn't that pretty, but it doesn't really bother me.  It's got a pocket inside for my pens and stuff.  It's got a lot of interfacing in the handles and in the body of the bag, so it's very stiff.  I wish I had a warehouse full of nothing but interfacing, I love it so much Smiley  That weird looking thing on the right side near the handles is just a brooch pinned on.



TUTORIAL GOODNESS::
Finally the tutorial!  If this seems sort of familiar, it's because it is.  I used my same tutorial for my pleated clutch purse, but modified it a bit to fit this bag.  Good luck, all!

there are links below pics incase they are pixilated or squished

1.  Cut one rectangle of your fabric and one of your lining (set aside the lining fabric for later).  The measurements for my bag are about 21 at its widest point and about 9 tall for the main body.  The seam allowances are sort of included, I don't really remember...it will work out I promise Wink

2.  To start, do the pleating.  To do this, sew a channel with a ribbon inside on both 21" sides.  To rouche/pleat, scrunch the fabric on the ribbons.  Sew flat along top to secure pleats, and pull out your ribbon.  This will seem to make your fabric rectangle get all wonky and miss-shaped in the middle area between the two 21 sides, but it will work out.  Iron flat

3.  With right sides together, fold your rectangle in half lengthwise


4.  With right sides still together, sew the two side seams and along the bottom, rounding the corners.  Make them at a slight angle as shown.  Turn right side out.

5.  Set that section of your bag aside, and start working on the lining.  (Now is the time to attach interfacing if you want your bag to be stifferif you do want to, just attach it to the wrong side of your lining.)  Now, with right sides together, fold your lining rectangle in half lengthwise as shown, and sew a curved line to match the bottom seam you just made on the bag.  This is so that when your lining goes in your bag, it will fit snugly into the curve of the bottom.  Cut off the excess fabric in the seam allowances.

6.  To make the side seams of the lining, place your lining pouch over the fabric pouch, and match up where you should sew so that your lining fits snugly into your bag.  Sew them at the same angle as the side seams of the outer fabric.  Trim extra seam allowances.  Leave your lining with right sides together, but turn the outer fabric right side out.

7.  Put the lining inside the outer fabric.  Your lining will probably end up being taller than the bag fabric, which is good.  Fold the lining down as shown, making the fold slightly above the top of the outer fabric edges (this will make sense later).  Sew the lining and the outer fabric together at the top.

8.  Set the whole thing aside and begin working on the handles across the top.  To do this, cut out four equal rectangles out of your handle fabric in the size shown (I would remeasure the top of you bag to make sure your handles will be the same length, just incase).

9.  If you want to use interfacing to make a nice, stiff handle, attach the interfacing to the wrong side of these rectangles now.  Cut out four handle shapes rectangles.  (I will put up a link to a life-size handle pattern for you to trace.)

10.  With right sides together, sew a seam following the bottom curve closely.  Also sew the two short sides.  Turn right side out.

11.  Now very carefully fold in the top part of the handles and sew in place (this can be tricky, you might want to clip you curves to make it easier).  Do the same to the round hole in the middle.  Now this handle is complete.  

12.  Repeat with your other two rectangles for the second handle.

13.  Now its time to attach the handles to the bag/lining.  Pin one handle to the bag and make sure its exactly where you want it.  Also make sure that the handle lines up with the top of the lining.  Sew the handle and lining together neatly.  

14.  Repeat with other handle.

15.  Done!

Here is an example of the bag from another user - jungrrl



6  CLOTHING / Clothing: Completed Projects: General / Springtime rainbow dress on: March 28, 2005 06:13:04 PM
My spring wardrobe needed a bit of fun, so I made this dress from some fabric my grandmother didn't want (I didn't dye it, it came in all it's glory like that).  I used McCall's M4444 pattern in view A, with a slight change with the bottom hem that I made.  It closes with a back zipper and hook and eye.  The staps also tie in the back as you can see.  I love it bunches and I wore it to school today and got some compliments Smiley  It's my new 'put me in good mood just by wearing it' dress Grin


Hmm, if the pictures appear too small and pixelated, click on the links below them

Full frontal

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/ironykills/sewing%20goodness/dressfront.jpg

Full back

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/ironykills/sewing%20goodness/dressbackwhole.jpg

Side (I guess this is my saucy pose...eeps)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/ironykills/sewing%20goodness/dressside.jpg

Close up of front

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/ironykills/sewing%20goodness/dresstop.jpg

Close up of back straps

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/ironykills/sewing%20goodness/dressback.jpg

The bottom hem

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/ironykills/sewing%20goodness/dresshem.jpg
7  PURSES, BAGS, WALLETS / Purses, Bags, Wallets: Completed Projects: General / TUTORIAL: Sweet little flower cutout handbag on: March 15, 2005 08:31:33 PM
I made this handbag for my dear friend Krista's birthday.  I like how the cutouts of the flowers turned out, with the decorative stitching around the edges of the flowers.  But next time I think I'll make the decorative stitches a little smaller.  There's a layer of interfacing between the outer layer and lining, so it's pretty stiff.  I made a sweet little tag inside that reads 'To Krista.  From Laura.' Smiley  What do y'all think?














**TUTORIAL**
1.  Cut out one bag shape with your outside fabric and one with your lining fabric making sure to add seam allowances(follow the shape shown).
2.  Fold the outside fabric in half, right sides together.
3.  Sew the three edges as shown, with the bottom edge curved, and leaving the top edge open.
4.  Fold and sew the corners as shown in the wonderful Jordy tutorial.
5.  Flip right side out.
6.  Measure your bottom in order to determine the size of the strip of contrasting fabric for the bottom of your bag (like in the photo shown).
7.  Cut out two rectangles based on your measurements. 



8.  Put the two rectangles of contrasting fabric right sides together, and sew on three sides.
9.  Flip the two rectangles right side out and finish the fourth edge.
10.  Pin strip of contrasting fabric to the bottom of your bag and sew in place (do this neatly because it will be visible).
11.  Cut out your desired shapes (mine were flowers) from one side of your outside fabric.  Once you've cut the shapes, you will probably want to squirt some FrayBlock on them, or a similar product to stop from too much fraying because the cutouts will have raw edges.  Or you could not put FrayBlock and have a decorative fray- it's your choice.
12.  Cut out a shape to go behind your cutouts in a contrasting fabric (does not have to be neat because it will be covered by lining later on).
13.  Pin your contrasting fabric to the inside of your bag behind the cutouts.
14.  Using a needle and thread (I used a big honkin' needle and some thick thread so the stitching around the cutouts would be visible and decorative) to hand stitch around your cutouts and to secure your bloby type shape of contrasting fabric.
15.  Remove the pins.
16.  Now back to your cutout lining shape from Step 1.  Sew it right sides together and fold corners as in Steps 2-4.  Do not flip right side out.



17.  Put lining inside bag.
18.  Fold your raw edges from your lining and your outside fabric together at the top and pin.
19.  Sew along top edge, securing the lining to the outside.
20.  Attach handles (I used handles from another bag I had).
21.  Done!!!!


8  PURSES, BAGS, WALLETS / Purses, Bags, Wallets: Completed Projects: General / anthropologie-inspired zip clutch on: February 23, 2005 11:13:16 PM
Well I've had my eye on this Anthropologie wallet/clutch for a while, and I thought it looked easy enough. 

From anthropologie.com........



I used it as an inspiration, and came up with this!  It was so simple to make.  It zips all around the three sides and has a pretty little flower I made pinned to the front, and an itty bitty little handle.  And it's nice and stiff because of interfacing.



Front


Back


Side
9  PURSES, BAGS, WALLETS / Purses, Bags, Wallets: Completed Projects: General / Tutorial: classy pleated iridescent clutch on: February 02, 2005 05:06:50 PM
I've become obsessed with clutches lately...just...obsessed.  I was sort of inspired by classic designs from the 20s and 30s, and I've had this beautiful green iridescent fabric for a long time, and I've been meaning to use this vintagey lining fabric forever.  I wanted it to be stiff enough to hold its own so I added iron-on-interfacing to both the lining and the band across the top. 

The button is actually sort of opal like in the middle, it's just hard to see in the photos.  And the green fabric was really hard to photograph because it changes color when it moves.  I love how it turned out, what do you think?


action shot!


close up of closure


my plant modeling the bag


back view


back view with the closure flap open


...and the inside/lining



OK here's the tutorial:::

EDIT:::   I had to upload these pics to Craftster's picture hosting because my Photobucket ran out of bandwidth, so if they are too small for you (this is as big as Craftster lets them be I guess?), PM me and I can send you an email personally with bigger pics Smiley

 Let me start by saying that every time I try to make a tutorial, I get super wordy and give way too many directions, but I try to not leave anything out.  This may seem long and tedious, but I always feel like too many directions are better than not enough!! 

1.  Cut one rectangle of your fabric and one of your lining (set aside the lining fabric for later).  The measurements for my bag are about 15 at its widest point and about 6 tall.  If you want this size, then make your two rectangles about 16x13 because theyll be folded in half laterthe extra inch I added is for your seam allowances.

2.  Lay out your fabric rectangle and pleat both ends as shown (this part is way easier to explain with a picture than with words, so bear with me).
   A.  Start in the middle of one 16 side and fold your pleats, securing them temporarily with pins.  Sew across the top of the pleats to secure them.  Be sure to    make your pleats at an angle, as shown in the picture.  Iron them flat.
   B.  Repeat the pleating on the other 16 side.  This will seem to make your fabric rectangle get all wonky and miss-shaped in the middle area between the two 16 sides, but it will work out.

3.  Cut of the excess fabric above the pleats so that you have a straight line.  Be sure to leave at least a half inch above the pleats.

4.  With right sides together, fold your rectangle in half lengthwise as shown.  Make sure that the pleating matches up on either side.  Sew your bottom seam along the fold line.  Because of the pleating you did earlier, when you sew this seam, it should create the nice rounded bottom like on my bag.



5.  With right sides still together, sew the two side seams.  Make them at a slight angle as shown.  Turn right side out.

6.  Set that section of your bag aside, and start working on the lining.  (Now is the time to attach interfacing if you want your bag to be stifferif you do want to, just attach it to the wrong side of your lining.)  Now, with right sides together, fold your lining rectangle in half lengthwise as shown, and sew a curved line to match the bottom seam you just made on the bag.  This is so that when your lining goes in your bag, it will fit snugly into the curve of the bottom.  Cut off the excess fabric in the seam allowances.

7.  To make the side seams of the lining, place your lining pouch over the fabric pouch, and match up where you should sew so that your lining fits snugly into your bag.  Sew them at the same angle as the side seams of the outer fabric.  Trim extra seam allowances.  Leave your lining with right sides together, but turn the outer fabric right side out.

8.  Put the lining inside the outer fabric.  Your lining will probably end up being taller than the bag fabric, which is good.  Fold the lining down as shown, making the fold slightly above the top of the outer fabric edges (this will make sense later).  Sew the lining and the outer fabric together at the top.




9.  Set the whole thing aside and begin working on the bands across the top.  To do this, cut out four equal rectangles out of your outer fabric.  They should end up being as wide as the top part of your bag that you already assembled, so measure that length and add an inch for seam allowances, then make the height of the rectangles about 2 (this includes seam allowances).

10.  Take aside two of the rectangles (if you want interfacing to make a nice, stiff band across the top of your bag, attach the interfacing to the wrong side of one of these rectangles now).  With right sides together, sew a curved seam to mirror the curved line of the bottom of your bag.  Trim seam allowances from the seam.  Turn right side out and iron flat.  Fold the remaining open sides inward and sew closed, making sure the width is equal to the top of your bag.  This will complete one band. 

11.  For the second band, repeat the band-making process with the remaining two rectangles, but there is one alteration on this band.  Before folding and sewing the final seam on this band, leave an opening a few inches wide in the center.  This alteration will be for the button closure flap.
   A.  Cut two 3x2 rectangles from your outer fabric.  With right sides together, sew a U-shaped seam across three sides as shown.  Flip right side out and iron flat.
   B.  Stick the flap partly inside the opening you left on the second band and sew    the opening closed as shown.

12.  Now its time to attach the bands to the bag/lining.  Pin the band with the flap to the back of the bag and make sure its exactly where you want it.  Also make sure that the top of the band lines up with the top of the lining.  Sew the band and lining together neatly at the top.

13.  Sew the bottom of the band (which is curved) neatly to the bag as shown.  This will secure all parts nicely.

14.  Repeat with front band.

15.  Sew together the sides of the bands as shown.

16.  Now that everything is all sewed in place, mark on the front band and the flap where you want your button to go.  Attach it to the front band, and make a button hole on the flap.  (If youre like me and are afraid of making button holes, just carefully cut a button-sized hole and put some anti fray stuff on the hole!)

17.  Hallelujah youre done!!!!

10  PURSES, BAGS, WALLETS / Purses, Bags, Wallets: Completed Projects: General / Mmm...rainbow plaid...heart pocket on: January 13, 2005 06:28:51 PM
So, I had some left over canvas from my apron http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=22180.0 and I was dying to use this rainbow plaid material for something, so I made a basic canvas tote with red piping (my first time using piping...took forever!), and added an oh-so-lovely heart-shaped pocket.  I stayed up late last night finishing it so I could wear it with my plaid coat today  Grin  I actually still need to add lining and some stiff interfacing to make it non-floppy, but here it is for now.
Let me know what you guys think!

Here it is in action with my coat






Close up of pocket
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