Hello! I think it's awesome that you and your daughter are crafting together. I know when I first learned a machine, around the age of 7, I was making pillow cases and little drawstring bags (a small pillowcase with a casing threaded through with ribbon). It's all straight cutting and stitching, and once she gets proficient, she can start doing the round bottom bags, where it's a rectangle sewed around a circle (like a soda can), with a casing and drawstring at the top.
You also might have better luck for clothing patterns posting in the Sewing for Kids--Discussion and Questions thread. Good luck!
I can think of two ways: 1, line the dress, and attach it to the lining (this is how prom dresses usually work), or 2, make it as a separate little petticoat, and just wear it under the dress (and any other skirt or dress you might have). It looks cute, though!
Penlowe's got the right idea. The number of tiers, and proportioning of them, is a lot of what gives the skirt the fullness. I actually mapped out a pattern for her tutorial (I think it's yours, Penlowe, at least!) and found that six tiers on an ankle length skirt would total out at 10 yards, given the 1.5 increase per tier, starting with 1.5x my waist (since I prefer a more fitted waistband), and I can get the whole skirt's worth out of 5 yds. of ~45" fabric. In order to do 25 yds. in the hem (I considered it, mine's for bellydancing, too, but it's also for regular wear, and that seems heavy) I'd start with the bottom tier, and work my way up, in the math. Good luck!
For those of you with hourglass-y figures (a category I mostly fall into), I plan on making this dress this weekend, and this is my proposed solution to the fitting problem: my hips are just a tad bit wider than my bust, and I know from experience that something that flares from my waist isn't necessarily going to accommodate me everywhere, and be attractive. So when drafting my pattern, I marked my bust, my waist, my hips, and the flare, and the length between the respective measurements. When I cut out the pieces, I'm going to scoop the waist up so there's actually a little straight bit in the middle section, where it'll bulge out above and below for the bust and hips, leave enough width to go over the hips, and then flare out from that point. I'll try and post pictures once they're cut. I'm also going to attempt to make it out of a grand total of 2 yards and 2 inches of fabric (I'm leaving off the ruffle, though, as I just want a regular sun dress), so we'll see how it goes.
Buy a real tree that is still in the pot, and when Christmas is over if you can't find anyone to donate to, you can probably post an ad on freecycle to get someone to take it.
This, too, would be my suggestion. My stepmom does this, and it works out well. She started a line of trees along her property line (scattering them, so they don't look funny--but still along the line). However, she's given a few away, too. And freecycle is awesome. Be warned, though: 5-6' tall trees don't come in pots, generally; they've got big burlap sacks full of dirt, and their roots around them, and you may need to secure both a large pot, and a method of keeping the tree from tilting or tipping in it. Upside: the sack is biodegradable, so as long as you cut it open, you can bury it with the tree.
I've got painted tile on my bathroom floor, and it's horrible! Granted, it was probably done by my apartment's maintenance crew, and while they painted in several coats (I can tell because they're slowly peeling away, one by one, in certain spots), I don't know if they sealed it, or what with, though I was assured that it was a tile-specific paint. Paint just can't stand up to the chemicals that the body produces, or that are in cleaning products. Latex paint will peel off (as mine is), and water-based paint will not wear well with regular cleaning.
If the tile is not in a tub/shower or toilet area, you could probably paint it as described above, as you'll most likely only be cleaning it with a damp cloth. If you do choose to do it, keep in mind to use a sponge brush. A friend of mine has a painted tile wainscot in her kitchen (which admittedly wears fine; it's not near the sink, though), but she used a regular bristle brush on it, and you can see the texture in the paint...it's not attractive at all. Also, if you have a small, hidden area (behind the sink, maybe?) where you can test a patch first--it might be a good idea.
Good luck! (Oh, and in my humble opinion, white would work well with yellow and blue; it makes a very fresh and invigorating combination.)
Hello! I would like to make a robe, and while I get the body and the sleeves of it, fine (no patterns, just based off of other clothes that I've made in the past), I'm a little iffy on the collar. I don't need a shawl collar, but I would like to put something around the neck, both to reinforce the shape, and also to finish the edge (I figure I can fold over a length of fabric, fold in the raw edges, and top stitch it around. My question is this: can that piece of fabric be a straight rectangle, the length of my front edges and neck, or does it need to curve?