Okay... This isn't too hard. For the first pair, use a pair you're willing to sacrifice or turn into a skirt because you may make mistakes, but this is the process.
You'll need a helper, safety pins and chalk to mark them up, then pins, scissors, et cetera. Turn the jeans inside out and put them on, zipped up and buttoned. You're going to alter the inseam, so have your helper pinch the excess fabric on your inner thigh until it feels comfortable. Once it feels comfortable, mark it and safety pin it in position. Work down both legs. Take the safety pins out, take the jeans off and still inside out, connect the chalk marks in a smooth line.
Before anything gets cut, sew with fairly large machine stitches on those chalk lines, angling out to the existing seam at the top. Turn the jeans right side out , put 'em on and walk around, sit down. Too loose? Sew another seam 1/4 inch inside the first. Too tight? Pick out the first seam and sew another 1/4 inch outside the first. Once they're comfortable, cut off the excess and rebuild the seam with at least two rows of tighter stitches.
Dn't toss that excess fabric -- that's now your pattern for altering the rest.
My sewing room is also my (professional) office and my library so while the room itself isn't small, given the 3000 books and filing cabinets, I'm limited on other space. My solution isn't cheap, but it's very effective. I bought the IKEA Norden gate leg table. When it's not in use, the table is 8 inches deep and my machine and iron fit nicely on top, plus it has 6 pretty deep drawers. The table is about $180, but it's solid wood and well made. Even when sewing denim, the table does not shake. (Card tables often do, and they don't last.)
I made an ironing pad to fit the table, and while it can be opened to full size, it can also be opened to only half. Most of the time, I can use half of the table for the machine and half for the iron, and even fully open, it only takes up about 70 inches. It's also a great dining table -- half is perfect for two-three people, full open is good for six and up to eight.
Giftmas is coming... And if you have an IKEA, these tables show up on craigslist from time to time.
I sew. Adult, kid, fine. Give me a 1/4 inch seam allowance and I'm golden.
But... my niece wants the doll I gave her for Solstice/Xmas/Festivus (she has an Obitsu 27 cm with a factory face and eyes, factory hair I cut n curled to match hers, nothing extravagant) to have a matching costume for her birthday. (DN asked for an Emily the Strange Costume. Gotta love a 5 year old Goth.) I adore this kid. She's good to her doll. I want her to have what she wants.
Her dress is done. Her shoes are here. Her tights are in transit. I have three weeks to get her doll dress done, and I may run out of time because I can't manage to sew the seams narrow enough. The fabric ends up in the bobbin slot and I have to speak soothingly to my machine to get it free.
What do I need to do to get very narrow seams to feed correctly (and oh, hems are scaring me...) Is there a foot I need to buy and learn to use, or is there something else? I tried handsewing one and it came out okay, but not what I want; the seams never pressed right to my eye.
I've got a midlevel singer, about 6 years old, in very good shape.
I'm making Kimono girl right now, with plans for boy doll next week or the week after. They're not hard (the hands are hell, but don't machine them and they're a lot easier!) but they do take patience. Of course, I'm modifying the process as I go (shoulders and hips have a button joint for flexibility) and did some substrate changes to the face.
Here's what I suggest with regard to Runo's dolls -- start with Nekomimi. I used that pattern to build a Rose Tyler doll and a Sister of Plenitude doll (okay, stuffed action figures) for pick-yer-December-celebration for two guy friends who are both HUGE Dr. Who fans. Neko is easy and you get all the basic concepts for working with Runo's patterns in that project. I also suggest googling for the font "Anime Eyes" and using that to make eye stencils.
I'll post Kimono as modified in finished when she's done and I've got her photos uploaded; I'm making the dolls as figures for the main characters in the book I'm getting properly edited right now before sending out -- dollbuilding lets me think without feeling lazy.
I'm a 1000 mile away Auntie (two nephews, one niece) and that is something I would love to be able to cut out, trim and then pack to send to my boys. (My niece could care less about kitchens and cooking, but my older nephew is an aspiring chef at 6. He LOVES Alton Brown.)
I don't have a huge collection, but I have some, though most is just costume stuff. Right now it's stored in small wooden boxes in my bathroom, but it gets tangled and pieces get separated. I don't have room for an armoire (and haven't found one that fits my aesthetics) and I have yet to see a jewelry box that I like so I think I need to make something, but at the moment, I'm a bit stumped. Anyone willing to share their secrets for keeping earrings together and necklaces untangled?
Lowe's usually has a bunch of wallpaper on clearance - .50 a roll to 2.00. (If not, check your local dollar/discount store.) You will need a stapler with a swing arm (so you can open it up and staple that way), some straight-pins and a tackhammer.
You hang the paper just like wallpaper, but without the wetting. Staple it at the top, trim, then push pins into the paper down the wall, drawing it tight.
You can also use butcher paper -- find a teacher's supply shop. They usually carry large rolls of 60 inch wide paper. Tack it up the same way (and it comes in a lot of usually primary colors) and feel free to decorate it!
Staple and pin holes are generally not noticeable in wallpaper, but if they are, you can fill them with patch and use markers to match the color (delicate hand, fine point, the big-big sharpie set.)
Twin XL sheets. The banes of my collegiate existence... (I am 5'2, so I needed an XL twin like I needed trepanning... but I was also ... ahem... liberated, so would have preferred some extra snuggly room...)
Depending on your budget and on how much you can get your fam to listen to you whine... my final solution was to get stick-on velcro and a mattress topper (memory foam). I stuck the foam to the school's mattress with the velcro, then put the sheet on the 3 inches of topper, and pinned it in place. Toppers run between $20 and 80, so you might ask for one for [insert winter gift giving holiday or tradition here]. I will say that I slept a lot better and was more productive in my two dorm years after getting that stupid piece of foam than I was before I got it, but I'm a life-long insomniac and I require a supportive and comfortable bed.
You could skip the Rapunzel part and just make it a castle.
It would be good for storing changing supplies, or clothes (use small bins) and would grow with baby as s/he matures.
Keep in mind (something I learned when my sister had her babies) that crib bumpers and padding and all that schmutz people put in cribs is for the adults, not for the babies, and is in fact potentially dangerous for them. Babies can smother on all that stuff, and the best thing for a baby is a plain mattress with sheet, the breathable mattress pad, a drool square (whatever those are called) and a single blanket.