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1541  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: Please help with Barbara Walker's Directions for Seamless Set in Sleeves on: August 25, 2007 11:01:54 AM
I agree to disagree with you on Barbara Walker's book. 

Fair enough  Smiley

How are you doing with the sleeves?
1542  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: Please help with Barbara Walker's Directions for Seamless Set in Sleeves on: August 25, 2007 09:13:34 AM
Tell me, is the Barbara Walker's book good in terms of basic instructions?

It depends on your definition of 'basic instructions'. 

It's not a how-to-knit book. If you want a sweater design book that's a 'plug-a-number-in-a-chart-and-knit' this isn't it. If you want a book that explains how to knit different kinds of sweater even though you need to figure out how many stitches, a gauge, the finished measurements you want, then yes, this is a good book.


No!  The patterns are too vague, so much that people are not able to understand them. This post is a prime example. I have written what she has said word for word and no one has really been able to explain what she is saying to do the post that started this thread. The only reason people buy this book is because no one else is explaining how to do these techniques, but you would be better off buying individual patterns that teach the techniques, i.e. Sahara if you like that look, than buying this book as it is way too vague.


I don't agree. Just because there's no definite answer within 48 hours doesn't mean "people are not able to understand them" I also don't think buying patterns to learn techniques is the best way to do that. Will the pattern have enough information that you can figure out how to translate the technique to a sweater with a different gauge, stitch count, length, width, etc? (I don't know the Sahara pattern, or the designer, I'm NOT talking about that pattern)

The original message quotes the intruction as saying "To determine this distance, measure loosely around your shoulder and underarm, where the armhole will lie. The back section should be knitted to one-sixth of this distance" (the "this distance" is the distance around the armhole mentioned in the previous sentence of the original quote)

What's vague about that? You measure the armhole. Figure out 1/6 of that measurement. Knit until it's that's long. Done. And it works for any size, gauge, yarn, etc.
1543  KNITTING / Knitting: Discussion and Questions / Re: Please help with Barbara Walker's Directions for Seamless Set in Sleeves on: August 25, 2007 07:28:01 AM
She assumes you've read the other sections of the book, not just the set-in sleeve section so some info is in other sections.  To me it sounds like you haven't read the Raglan chapter.  I put some notes in purple to answer your questions (and your questions are in italics).

Here, the sleeve caps are worked simultaneously with the back and front, like the yoke of a raglan.
(Review the raglan chapter, if you're not sure how she does the raglan shaping)

Start as a sleeveless sweater, with an invisible cast-on at the shoulder and the usual short rows for shoulder shaping. [ARE THE SHORT ROWS NECESSARY? - No, they're optional if you want to slope the shoulders a little)]

By the way, the section of her directions for starting a sleeveless sweater that are to make a very long story (buy the book if you are interested) short, do an invisible cast-on, short rows at the shoulder and make the front and back separately.
BUT THIS SWEATER I.E. THE SEAMLESS SET IN SLEEVE SWEATER, IS SUPPOSED TO INCLUDE SLEEVES, SO IT IS CONFUSING FOR HER TO SAY TO START WITH HER SLEEVELESS METHOD.]


You don't start working the sleeves until part of the shoulder is done. Don't worry you'll get there. Just go to sleeveless sweater chapter, and follow the directions there.


Work both the back and front sections until the length of the piece at the arm edge is just one-third of the distance around the armhole, but no more. To determine this distance, measure loosely around your shoulder and underarm, where the armhole will lie. The back section should be knitted to one-sixth of this distance, and the front section to another one sixth, so that together they go a third of the way. End both back and front sections on a wrong-side row (the same wrong-side row, with regard to your pattern stitch) and pause here to begin the sleeves.
I'm guessing you're ok with this paragraph?


With a long circular needle, work the next right-side row across the front (if the garment is a cardigan across the left front).  Place a marker on the needle. Then turn around the left corner, right side still facing, and continue the row by picking up one third of the desired number of sleeve stitches from the left side edge, all the way over to the back  [WHY IS THERE A NEED TO PICK UP STITCHES? SHOULDNT YOU JUST BE KNITTING AT THIS POINT. I SPECIFICALLY CHOSE THIS METHOD BECAUSE I DID NOT WANT TO PICK UP AND KNIT LIKE YOU HAVE TO DO WITH HER OTHER METHOD AND WITH SAHARA,  FOR EXAMPLE.].
You're picking up the stitches to start the sleeves.


 Place another marker. Turn around the left back corner, right side still facing, and continue the row across the back stitches. Place a third marker. Turn around the right back corner, right side still facing and pick up one third one-third of the sleeve stitches form the right side edge. Place a fourth marker. Turn around the right front corner, right side still facing.  If the garment is a pullover, you will now continue in rounds, working across the front for the next round. If the garment is a cardigan, you will now finish the continuous right side row by working across the right front to the center opening. I'm guessing you're ok with this paragraph?

From here on, the back, front, and sleeves are working in a single piece like the yoke of a raglan, but with this difference: the body sections are worked straight down and the increases are made on the sleeves only until you reach the start of the underarm curve [THIS IS NOT CLEAR WHEN YOU SHOULD START THE NEXT SET OF INCREASES].

The next paragraph tells you about the increases, I put it in bold:

Make 4 single increases every other row or round, one increase on the sleeve side of each of the 4 markers. Thus you add to the stitches to the sleeves, but none to the body. When you reach the underarm, however, you shape the body sections also, by increasing on both sides of each marker (8 increases every other row or round).   This will shape the short curve at the underarm. The rest is worked exactly like a raglan yoke [WHAT DOES SHE MEAN BY THIS? I WISH THAT SHE WOULD SPELL EVERYTHING OUT INSTEAD OF BEING SO VAGUE]. Divide the sections and cast on underarm stitches in the same manner.

You need to re-read the raglan chapter!!! It's all there - I did this a few years ago, and yes, it's all there. The raglan chapter explains how often and where to do the body & sleeve increases. Based on that information, she tells you do the increases for the sleeves, but not the body until you get to the underarm. Then she says to do the body increases. (the sentences I put in bold)

This is an entertainingly different way to make a seamless set-in sleeve cap. It works out very nicely and creates a comfortable, sleek sleeve without sewing. [THIS IS WHY I WOULD LIKE TO LEARN HOW TO MAKE THIS SLEEVE, IT SEEMS TO BE SIMILAR TO THE RAGLANS AND DOES NOT REQUIRE THE PICKING UP AND KNITTING THAT HER OTHER TECHNIQUE FOR SEAMLESS SET-IN SLEEVE.]


It is similar to - not exactly the same  - raglans, but for the shoulder seam to be straight down, you have to work some of the shoulder first, and then pick up the stitches to start the sleeves. no sewing just means there's no seam to do - and there isn't if you do the sleeves in the round, and the body below the underarm in the round. No offense, but you're going to have to learn to pick up & knit sometime...
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