Here is my Cabled Spiral Pullover from Knitting Nature. I knit it with Sarah's Yarns Mongolian Cashmere DK in Rich Blueberry. I used seven skeins. I added waist shaping and lengthened it a bit (I know you can't see that in the pic, sorry). More info on my Ravelry projects page, but I think you have to be a beta tester to see. My name is Aurelia615 on Ravelry. Cheers!
Well, the subject line says it all. I have tried a tubular cast-on several times and each time it is WAY too tight. Should I try doing the 4 stockinette rows with a needle that is a couple sizes larger and then after the tubular cast-on is complete I can go to the needle size I need? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
Hi all, So I knit the Shetland Triangle from Wrap Style awhile ago. I made it out of Rowan's Cashsoft 4ply, which is not called "superwash," but is supposed to be machine washable. When I tried to block this shawl, It still had a lot of the rippling that is common in lace before it is blocked. I tried it twice, and I always leave my blocked items out to dry for at least a day or two AFTER it seems to be dry, just to make sure. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Thanks! -Jennifer
I just picked up a shawl pattern that involves beading... and it calls for over 2000 beads... this seems crazy to me. The bead size is six, the needle size is 9, it calls for 3 balls of Koigu Premium Merino (50g/175yds), it is 15" "tall" (it's a triangle-shaped shawl). I've never beaded anything, but 2000 beads seems ridiculous for a shawl. The pattern is the Beaded Eyelet a Shapely Shawlette by Judy Pascale... here's a link to someone selling it on ebay (there is a picture there). If anyone can look at it and tell me if they think I really need 2000 beads, I would really appreciate it! Thanks! http://cgi.ebay.com/Shapely-Shawlette-Beaded-Eyelet-pattern-by-Judy-Pascale_W0QQitemZ8193923116QQcategoryZ41239QQcmdZViewItem -Jennifer
Hi everyone, I'm about to start working on Tubey in this winter's issue of Knitty (http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter05/PATTtubey.html) and my friend sent me a link to her friend's blog (don't know the girl, so can't post the blog address). The friend is working on Tubey as well. In her pictures, she is halfway done with the body, and the color jog where she changes colors in the stripes is pretty noticeable. I was wondering if there were any tricks to eliminating that? In Weekend Knitting there is a note in the instructions for a felted bag that say "to minimize the jog where the colors change, work one round with the new color, remove marker, lift the old-color stitch before the new-color stitch up onto the left-hand needle, and k2tog (lifted stitch of old color and first stitch of new color), replace marker. The beginning of the round will move 1 st to the left at each color change."
So can/should I do this for the sweater, even though I'm not felting it? Or is it bad because I'm moving the marker, and it is a garment? Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
Ok, so I consider myself to be a semi-advanced knitter, but I just started crocheting and keep having questions. I'm on my second project (the first one was the stripes and stripes forever scarf), and I'm doing the fingerless gloves. Row 2 reads: Ch 1, sc in back loop of each sc across, turn- 23 sc.
Okay, so I got the ch1 part, and sc means single crochet... but it sounds like i'm doing short rows here or something, and i don't understand how you turn and then sc into the back loop of each of the sc's I just did... it made sense when i was sc'ing into the back loop of the CHAIN, but where is the back loop in the work i just did? Any help is appreciated
Hi everyone, over the weekend i bought a really great little table (plant stand?) that has a mosaic design on the top. Part of the mosaic is gone, but I bought it anyway thinking that small mosaic tiles couldn't be hard to find. I checked in town at a local bead store and they don't carry them, I checked at Joann's and theirs are all too big, and i did a google search for them and came up with a bunch of sites that do mosaic for hottubs and floors and stuff (also way too big). At the Joann's site there was a user review of the ones that were too big and the person mentioned breaking them with a hammer. Is this what I should do? Help me please, I'm a knitter and don't stray much from yarn. This is pretty new to me and I thought it was something I could tackle but now I'm not so sure I can find this stuff. Any help is appreciated Thanks! -Jen P.S. I hope this is an appropriate board to post this at, I wasn't sure where it should go!
Hello out there, I just finished knitting the pillowcase inserts from Weekend Knitting for my mom's birthday (Sunday) and they are really curling. I tried ironing... no luck. Should I just block them? I'm going to use my aunt's sewing machine today to sew them into the pillows... can I block the whole thing after they're sewn in? I'm afraid when i sew them in they're going to bunch the pillowcase up because they are curling. Any help is appreciated!