I have been eying this bag
for a bit and wanted one so finally decided to take some left over material and give it a go!
Here is my first Nolita Knock-Off made from 3/4 of a yard of upholstery weight fabric and 3/4 of a yard of lining fabric I had around. I'm so planning on making more of these it came out I think great for my needs.
the bag all closed and just finished off (I cleaned off the marking pencil before using it)
inside all stuffed with a pair of socks I'm working on and all the supplies
a better picture to show the welted pockets on the flap and interior
Ok here is what I came up with I hope it's clear enough and everyone can follow along
Nolita Bag Knock-Off
3/4 yard fabric for outside
3/4 yard fabric for interior
1 yard fusible interfacing-keep scraps for the pocket assembly
about 20 inches 1/2 elastic
Create a paper template
I created 4 paper templates:
26.5 inches x 20 inches - cut 1 exterior fabric, 1 interior fabric, 1 interfacing
8.25 inches x 20 inches - cut 1 exterior fabric on fold (fold should be along long edge or you can cut 2 pieces and sew them together-this is the interior elasticized pocket)
8 inches x 9 inches - cut 2 exterior fabric, 2 interior fabric, 2 interfacing
4.5inches x 16 inches - cut 2 interior fabric
Now using the last template (4.5x16) cut 1 piece 4.5 x 18inches and 1 piece 6.5 x 16 inches for the welted pockets
With left over exterior fabric cut 2 strips 37 inches x 2 inches. You want to end up with 1 piece 74 inches in length or longer if you want longer straps.
So you can cut more and attach together but keep it at least in 2 pieces for sewing and turning (72in or more is too much to turn at once you'll go insane)
Assembly: I like to get the hardest out of the way first so you finish with just easy sewing
Iron interfacing onto the wrong side of the exterior fabric that measures 20x26 and the 2 pieces that measure 8x9 and set aside.
Here is a great tutorial that will show you how to insert a welted pocket so much better than I canhttp://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/474
On Mine I took the interior section that measures 20x26 and placed it on a table top the 20 in end at the top
I measured and marked the piece as follows
measure 1/2 inch from top and draw a line across for seam allowance
measure 1/2 inch in from right side and mark a line for seam allowance
measure 4 inches down from top and mark a line across - this is the bottom of the top flap where the side pocket will be to hold long needles
Now measuring from seam allowance marks
On the top right:
measure down 3/4 inch and in 2 inches and mark a spot
measure down 2 1/4 inches from that dot and make another dot
Connect the 2 dots to have a line that measures 2 1/4 inches long
On the left
Measure over 1/2 inch and mark for seam allowance
Measure over 1.5 inches from left side and 1 inch from line marking end of flap and mark a dot
From the right
measure over 1/2 inch and mark for seam allowance
measure over 1.5 inches from the right and 1 inch down from line marking end of flap and mark a dot
Connect the 2 dots to have a horizontal line measuring 16 inches
Take scrap pieces of fusible interfacing and iron them onto the back directly under where these lines are drawn...this is a step in the pocket instructions linked above
Follow the instructions for inserting the pocket but stop before attaching the pocket itself
Once you have the welting done on the pocket you now need to insert the zipper.
Put your zipper foot on your machine if you have one and follow basic zipper procedures I won't list here
You can opt to do different closures like Velcro, buttons or anything else.
Here is an instruction set showing how to do a welted pocket with a button closure insteadhttp://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/pipedpocket.php
Once you have the closure you like now attach the pockets using
1 - 4.5x16 and 4.5 x 18 inch pieces for the long pocket on the top flap
1- 4.5 x 16 and 6.5 x 16 inch pieces for the horizontal interior pocket
GREAT! Thats the hardest part of all this!
Now take the piece you cut on the fold that is 8.25x20 when folded
If you cut 2 pieces just sew them together at this point along one 20 inch edge
Now fold so right side is facing up and bottom edge is even and sew a little over 1/2 from the folded edge down to create a casing for the elastic
Insert the elastic pinning it to one end then pulling through to the other.
Pull elastic so the piece gathers and the top measures about 16 inches.
Sew the ends of the elastic into place
Now turn the piece right side together with long ends matching up and sew along the exposed 20 inch edge without elastic leaving the sides open
turn right side out
On the lining piece with the pockets at the top of your table
go to the bottom of the piece and mark 1/2 seam allowance up from the 20 in edge
measure 7 inches up from this mark and mark again across the bag (this is the bottom of the front of the bag)
take the elastic top pocket you just made and pin it here so that the top of the elastic matches up to the 1/2 seam allowance mark
stretch the top so you can pin it from side to side
Now match the nonelastic edge up to the 7in mark on the liner and pin across the bag
Setting your machine to a zig zag stitch top stitch across the nonelastic edge securing it to the lining
Leave pinned across the top but you can remove the pins holding the bottom nonelastic portion
Now take one of the lining pieces 8x9 inches
Pin the 8in side to the side where the open ends of the elastic pocket meet the lining
Pin across the bottom allowing for a 1/2 seam allowance on both sides
pin up the next 8in side
repeat on other side of the bag. I didn't take a great picture of this but did on the exterior so this is what it should look like (only in lining fabric)
On one of the bottom edges you want to leave an opening about 5inches wide to be able to turn later so just don't sew the entire bottom of one side panel
Now sew along the 3 edges on both sides (leaving that opening on one) and your lining is finished
Take the 2 inch pieces and sew them along the long side. Then turn right side out
Sew the ends together making one Big O at least 72 inches in length
you can see that here where I pinned them on
Pinning on the straps
Find the center bottom of the bag like this
On the exterior fabric mark your 1/2 seam allowance around the entire outside of the piece
No measuring in from this seam allowance
from the top edge mark down 3.5 inches and run a ling across the bag (this is the flap)
from the 3.5 in line measure down 7 inches and run a line across the bag (this is the back of the bag)
from that 7in line measure down 4 inches and run a line across the bag-Star this line so you know it's the center of the bottom of the bag
From that 4 in mark measure down 4 inches and mark a line across the bag
from that mark measure and you should have 7 inches left to the next seam allowance mark (this is the front of the bag)
Now side to side measure 10 inches in from the raw edge and mark
do this in a few spots along the length and mark a line running the 26 inches down the center
Now look where the horizontal stared line intersects with the vertical line down the center. This is where we start to pin the straps on
measure 9 inches to the left and 9 inches to the right of the center and mark
go up and down from these marks making more marks 9 inches from the center vertical line
this is where the strap will sit
Now you don't want to sew the strap onto the flap portion or onto the entire side panels
From the seam allowance on the bottom measure up 2.5 inches and mark that this is where you want to end sewing on the strap
Measure down 2 inches from the 3.5 inch line (the flap) and mark this is where you want to finish sewing
now pin down the straps like in the picture above and top sew them onto the bag just working across the line where you want to stop on each side
Now pin the exterior sides on just like you did the interior sides
Sew around all 3 pinned edges on both sides leaving no opening this time
Now the exterior is assembled.
If you are going to add magnetic snaps do so now, you can also use Velcro at the end or sewn on snaps at the end, or get fancy and add button holes and buttons if you like
I added magnetic closures by doing the following
On the front panel of the bag where the straps are I measured 1inch up from where the straps was no longer sewn on and marked this as the position to add the closure
On the lining piece you need to add the other portion to the flap part of the bag where the long skinny pocket is
I measured in from 4.5 inches from each side and 1 inch from the top and added the magnetic closure (make sure they line up on your bag before cutting and sticking them in)
Now leaving the exterior piece like this
place the lining right side facing into the exterior piece.
Pin all raw edges together along flap, down sides of flap, top of the sides of the bag and along the front of the bag
Sew this all together turning the corners well and leaving no opening.
Once finished find the opening you left on the lining piece and turn the whole piece right side out
Make sure to poke and get the corners straightened out and all
I then pressed my edges to make sure the lining stays inside and such
then I top sewed on the same edge I just sewed all the way around.
And you are finished.
If theres any questions I know this was long but once you do it you'll see it's not that hard and is done in 2 pieces like this so theres not a ton of assembly.