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1  Finished My Seashell Wreath in Crafty Housewares: Completed Projects: General by AmyLynn98 on: June 21, 2014 06:24:02 PM
My boss had a really nice seashell wreath in her house that she made a few years ago. I was amazed by it and I needed to have one for myself.

Here is mine. The materials for it came from AC Moore (for the grape vine wreath), 2 beaches in Norfolk, 2 beaches in Virginia Beach, and 2 shells I had from the Tampa/Clearwater area from several years ago.



Everything is hot glued on. It took a lot of soaking in soapy water and then Lysol to get rid of the stink on these shells. The weird thing is that the items I picked up in Virginia Beach smelled worse than the items I picked up in Norfolk.

I've got:
  • two different kinds of sea grass
    feathers
    pieces of driftwood
    various shells (some are mussels)
    horseshoe crab shells
    various other crab shells
    mermaid purses
    1 piece of sea glass
    1 Corona extra bottle cap
    a couple of rocks
    some barnacles

This is my boss's wreath, by the way. She said she loves a good hot glue gun project! Smiley

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2  Finished Fixing Mom's Flamingo in Exterior Decorating / Yard Art / Gardening: Completed Projects by AmyLynn98 on: June 02, 2014 07:39:53 PM
My mom passed away in November last year. She wanted us to wait until we could all be together, in the spring, to spread her ashes (my husband is in the military and his CO wouldn't let him come home before she passed). So we got together in April to take care of her one last time. One of the things we brought back from our trip home was a heavy stone flamingo that belonged to my mom. It was a little rough looking. having spent at least one Iowa winter outside and several Iowa summers baking outside in the heat.


That one winter it sat outdoors for is what helped to break it's neck. Luckily for me, there is some kind of rebar inside the neck, so everything held together in the bed of the truck on the way back here.

I used a Walgreens knock off of Gorilla Glue, which I was very happy with. The Python Glue is actually thinner and less "foamy" than the Gorilla brand. A couple applications inside the crack was enough to secure the break, but it wasn't enough to disguise it.

For that, I needed to make a couple thin clay collars for it from Sculpey. And since it's oven bake clay, I had to breal down and buy an embossing/heat gun to cure it.


Then I did a quick and dirty paint job on it to set my base colors: just a bright pink for the body and a hunter green for the base. I didn't do any detail work with it. It was just two cans of spray paint.

I painted everything else by brush last night with other colors for the details.




I think my mom would approve of this. I had asked her once before if she'd let me fix it for her and she said no at the time. Now, you've got to get right up on it to see where the thickness and smoothness of the neck changes where the clay and the stone come together.
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3  Refinished My First Piece of Furniture in Interior Decorating: Completed Projects by AmyLynn98 on: January 29, 2014 12:51:50 PM
I had this bench for about four months before I started working on it. I've been messing around with it, off and on, since April 2013, and now because of the glory that is a snow day, the bench has been completed....finall y. Besides, I need to do something besides shop online...eBay and Amazon can be a dangerous combination! Smiley

As a refresher, here is the before picture. Excuse my shadow. It was late in the day when I took this picture and my back was to the west.



I wore out my husband's electric sander. I think this has about 4-5 coats of stain and 2 coats of polyurethane on it.

This is the after picture. I used curtain tiebacks to secure the cushions to the arm supports. I also bought four more to take apart and use as trim to hide the staples in the back cushions (the back of the bench is actually completely open through the wood, so it basically looks the same on the backside).



My friends lovingly this "the toilet," because I actually turned it into a bench with shallow storage space under the cushions. There's a hinged lid in the center of the bench. Originally, there were just batting, springs and horse hair under the original fabric.

There's a handful of things I would have liked to have done differently/better, but this is the first piece of furniture I've ever redone so I'm still pretty proud of it.
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4  Supersize Shrug Me! in Crochet: Completed Projects by AmyLynn98 on: January 26, 2014 08:01:20 AM
Recently, I completed a shrug. It's not my usual piece of clothing, but I came across the crochet pattern for the Lion Brand Heartland Sunset Shrug (Pattern Number: L32035). You normally need a user name and password for the Lion Brand patterns, but since I'm going to break this pattern down, you'll see my thoughts and changes here.

This pattern is not something of Lion Brand's caliber, in my opinion. While the pattern itself is super simple, I think Lion Brand dropped the ball on it quite a bit. It's not as high a quality that their patterns usually tend to be. I don't know if it's because of the skill level or if it's just written poorly.

SKILL LEVEL: Easy + (Level 3)--This is actually correct. There are no complicated stitches to learn. It is just a big ole circle, so as long as you an count, ANY crocheter, at ANY level, should be able to make this with ease.



SIZE: One Size--WRONG. If I had followed the directions from Lion Brand, I would have looked like a sausage wearing a too small casing. You will need to complete almost all of the pattern to figure out how much more, if any, rows you should add on.

Personally, I can wear size large shirts, but I prefer extra larges. There's no way the original pattern size would have fit me, so I'm guessing their model was extremely petite.

About 38 in. (96.5 cm) diameter, before folding and seaming--This is the original size. I didn't think to measure my circle before seaming.

I used an H sized hook, which is the recommended size. Lion Brand used 5 yarns, and I used 4. You can use any number of yarns you want, you'll just need to figure out the pattern. I was changing colors every six rows. This is what I used:

--Caron Simply Soft in neon yellow (#9773)-1 skein
--Caron Simply Soft in neon orange (#9774)-1 skein
--Caron Simply Soft in neon coral (#9772)-1 1/2 skeins
--Caron Simply Soft in neon pink (#9775)-1 skein

I actually had all of these before choosing this pattern. I saw them at the arts and crafts store I work at, and I knew I had to have them for a sweater for myself! Smiley

STITCH EXPLANATION:
beg-Cl (beg cluster) Ch 2, yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (2 loops rem on hook); yarn over, insert hook in same st and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Cl (cluster) Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (2 loops rem on hook), *yarn over, insert hook in same st and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook; rep from * once more, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.

NOTES:
1. Shrug is worked in joined rnds beg at center. Do not turn at the end of rnds.
2. Color is changed by fastening off old color and joining new color.
3. Piece is folded and 2 side seams sewn to create armholes.--This was difficult to understand, even with the directions that came at the end of the pattern. This was the most difficult thing about the pattern.


SHRUG
Center Motif--I especially like how this looks.
With A, ch 5.
Rnd 1 (RS): Dc in 5th ch from hook (beg ch counts as dc, ch 1), (ch 1, dc in same ch) 6 times, ch 1; join with sl st in 4th ch of beg ch - 8 dc and 8 ch-1 sps at the end of this rnd.
Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1 in this rnd and in all following rnds), dc in first ch-1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp) 7 times, ch 1; join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch - 16 dc and 16 ch-1 sps at the end of this rnd.
Rnd 3: Beg-Cl in same st as joining, *ch 2, sk next ch-1 sp, Cl in next dc; rep from * around, ch 2, sk last ch-1 sp; join with sl st in beg-Cl - 16 Cl and 16 ch-2 sps at the end of this rnd.
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc in this rnd and in all following rnds), 3 dc in first ch-2 sp, *dc next Cl, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 64 dc at the end of this rnd.
Rnd 5: Ch 3, (tr, dc, hdc) in same st as joining, sk next st, sc in next st, *sk next st, (hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc) in next st, sk next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around to last st, sk last st, (hdc, dc) in same st as joining; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 16 (hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc) groups and 16 sc at the end of this rnd.
Rnd 6: (Sl st, ch 1, sc) in first tr, *ch 5, sk next 5 sts, sc in next tr; repeat from * around to last 5 sts, ch 5, sk last 5 sts; join with sl st in first sc - 16 sc and 16 ch-5 sps. Fasten off.
Body of Shrug--Again, there is NO WAY this is "one size fits all."
Rnd 7: From RS, draw up a loop of B in any ch-5 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc in this rnd and in all following rnds), 6 dc in same ch-5 sp, 7 dc in each ch-5 sp around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 112 dc at the end of this rnd.
Rnd 8: Ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining (increase made), dc in next 6 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 128 sts.
Rnd 9: Ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 7 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 144 sts.
Rnd 10: Ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 8 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 160 sts.
Rnd 11: Ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 9 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 9 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 176 sts.
Rnd 12: Ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 10 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 10 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 192 sts.
Rnd 13: Ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 11 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 208 sts. Fasten off.
Rnd 14: From RS, draw up a loop of C in same st as joining, ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 12 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 12 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 224 sts.
Rnd 15: Ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 13 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 13 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 240 sts.
Rnd 16: Ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 14 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 14 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 256 sts.
Rnd 17: Ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 15 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 15 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 272 sts.
Rnd 18: Ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 16 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 16 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 288 sts.
Rnd 19: Ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 17 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 17 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 304 sts.
Rnd 20: Ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 18 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 18 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 320 sts. Fasten off.
Rnd 21: From RS, draw up a loop of D in same st as joining, ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 19 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 19 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 336 sts.
Rnd 22: Ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, dc in next 20 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 20 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 352 sts.
Rnd 23:Ch 3, dc in each dc around; join with sl st in top of beg ch.--I don't know if this is a mistake or intentional. It looks odd when you do this row like this. I'm thinking the this should read: Ch 3, working in the back loops only, dc in each dc around; join with sl st in top of beg ch. This would continue the pattern.

At this point, throw the circle over your back to get an idea of how big you need to make your shrug. Flip down the back a bit from your neck to figure out where your collar will be, as well. If you need to do additional rows, work them in increasing rows, such as 21, 22, 23, etc. I made my shrug up to 24 dc around, but I really should have stopped at 21 or 22. As the shrug hangs (both from creating it and from wearing it), you'll see it stretches, so you don't need it to be huge because it could become huge on it's own. That's okay.
Border
Rnd 24 (RS): With D, ch 3, working in back loops only, dc in same st as joining, 2 dc in next st, *sk next 2 sts, 2 dc in each of next 2 sts; repeat from * around to last 2 sts, sk last 2 sts; join with sl st in top of beg ch. Fasten off.
Rnd 25: From RS, draw up a loop of E in sp between sts of any 2-dc group, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in sp between sts of each 2-dc group around; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rnds 26-29: Sl st in sp between sts of first 2-dc group, ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in sp between sts of each 2-dc group around; join with sl st in top of beg ch. Fasten off.
Rnd 30: With B, rep Rnd 25. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Fold piece in half. With fold at top, measure 8 in. (20.5 cm) down from fold on each side and place marker for armholes. Measure 6 in. (15 cm) along edge below each marker and place another marker. Baste or pin edges together between markers and try Shrug on to check fit. Adjust marker position if desired, then sew edges together between markers on both sides. Weave in ends.

Ignore all this. This is what I came up with. Throw the shrug back over your shoulders and flip the collar back. For mine, I made the edge of the collar touch  the edge of the center motif, but remember, my shrug's bigger than I thought it would be. If you can see where your joining stitches are for each row, make that run up your back. You'll be able to disguise that later on, if you need to do so.

It would help if you had another person for this part, but if you don't, you can do this facing a large mirror. You'll need stitch markers and a tape measure. Raise one of your arms to a 45 degree angle. With your free hand, pinch where you want the width of the sleeve to be. Mark the spot with the stitch marker. Measure the width of the sleeve and repeat it on the other side.

I thought this looked a little unfinished after row 30, for a Lion Brand pattern, so I went back and did one more row of sc in each stitch around, and then I finished it off. This row of sc was also used to secure the sleeves, first around the body of the shrug, and then back around the sleeves separately.

I also went back and used a yarn needle and a length of yarn and secured the back collar with a few stitches. This will keep it from flopping around, and you'll always know which end is the top.
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5  A New Garden Gnome in Exterior Decorating / Yard Art / Gardening: Completed Projects by AmyLynn98 on: December 26, 2013 10:01:24 AM
This is actually my second refurbished gnome. The first one was a broken gnome on clearance from Wal-Mart that I zombified.

Here's this little guy's back story. In September, I had a shitty time at a oceanfront concert, left early, and went to an antiques store in Virginia Beach to window shop. I went back a second time shortly after that and realized they had a good number of garden gnomes. I went back a third time, and picked this little guy up. He's probably about 10 inches tall.



He was made by Artline in 1992, according to the markings on the underside of his feet. He was holding a tool or something at some point, which broke, but I can't get the rest of the handle out of his hand. He was originally marked at $16, then $6 and I got him for $5.50.

My grandma had an Artline cookie jar of Mickey Mouse when I was a kid made out of the same plasticy stuff as the gnome, so that's why I recognized the Artline brand immediately.

He's cute, but a little too "Disney/Snow White and the Seven Dwarves" for my own taste. I was going to do him as Uncle Sam, but then inspiration struck: he needed to be a leprechaun gnome, in honor of my mom whose birthday was St. Patrick's Day. He is a complete repaint, all the way around. He actually needed a lot of primer for some reason to get started.



Even though it's not St. Patrick's Day, this little guy lives on my front step, along with a repaired Steelers football player gnome (he kept breaking and I separated him from the other gnomes...I think they've been beating him up) and the pooping  gnome my husband got me. Smiley
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6  Lawn of the Dead in Exterior Decorating / Yard Art / Gardening: Completed Projects by AmyLynn98 on: September 08, 2013 01:13:01 PM
I can't take credit for this post title. I saw it somewhere on Deviant Art and I liked it.



About three weeks ago, I picked up a little garden gnome statue, about 8-10" tall, at Wal-Mart on clearance for $4.50 (regularly $9.99). It has a red glass mosaic hat. which was a little crumbly at the top. It also had two holes in the booty.

This was a complete repaint, from hat brim all the way down. He was repainted with some primer and a bunch of different craft paints.

The red drips coming down his hat serve an actual purpose. Before I started painting him, I used my hit glue gun to fill in the crumbled spots of glass, to secure it all. Then, I used the red craft paint in the squeeze bottle to cover up the hot glue. I also used hot glue to fill in the holes in his booty.

I'm very happy with how he turned out. I'd been wanting a zombie gnome for some time now. I just couldn't bring myself to buy one from Etsy when I know how easy garden gnomes are to find in the stores.

The ribs and the arm bones were made with a glue gun and then the glue was painted. I did about four coats of clear coat on him to protect him once he became my front door sentry.

My only problem now will be deciding, will he stay outside year round, or will I bring him in after Halloween?




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7  A Trio of Customized Baby Onsies in Clothing for Kids: Completed Projects by AmyLynn98 on: September 01, 2013 06:37:01 PM
A friend of mine, Brandon, and his wife recently had a baby boy. By recently, I mean about three months ago, they had their kid. I'm a little late with the baby gift, but I finally finished it tonight.

Brandon is wild about the Punisher like I am for Spider-Man. As soon as I found out they had a baby boy, I knew I had to make a couple of Punisher-themed onsies. Oh hell, who am I kidding? If they'd had a little girl, I would have made them with pink skulls...and maybe one with a bow.

Thanks to iron on fusing, some black fabric in my stash (from a Doctor Who swap I participated in last year), and my computer, I made three customized onsies. I checked Yahoo images for Punisher logos. Another friend picked out a package of three onsies for me (I don't know how to shop for kids' clothes. She made it easy for me and picked up a set that the little babino could grow into), I picked three different logos. I bet you money that Brandon can look at each logo and tell me exactly when each one was introduced.

I ironed out the onsies and measured across the chest to get the right size for the transfers. I used Publisher to size them out right and printed them out in greyscale. I used the fusable interface to turn the fabric into iron on's. After they were ironed to the onsies, I used my sewing machine to do a blanket stitch all the way around the skulls and eyes (I didn't do the nostrils...those were too damn small to sew).

I'm getting together with Brandon and his wife next weekend. They don't know what the gift is, only that it's something "Brandon-themed."





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8  Mama Needs a New Pair of Shoes! (Pic heavy) in Shoes: Completed Projects by AmyLynn98 on: July 12, 2013 05:19:37 PM
Well, no, not really.

A couple months ago, I bought a pair of simple black flat shoes from Barefoot Shoes. They had glitter on them and they weren't sealed. I figured they would lose glitter after awhile, and I was right. They aren't anything fancy. I don't even know the brand of them. They're just plain black, ballet-type shoes, I guess. They're pretty cheaply made too. With the glitter coming off the sides like this, it almost feels like it's some kind of cardboard or something they're made out of, sandwiched in between the fabric insoles and the outer glitter.

But after seeing so many shoe-related posts here, I figured it was time to have some shoe fun of my own again.

This was a really quick project tonight. In fact, the longest part of this project was waiting for the Mod Podge and the clear coat to each dry, in between coats.

I picked up two colors of glitter (blue and purple), the Mod Podge and the clear coat at A.C. Moore this afternoon. I spent just over $19 for the supplies. When I came home from work tonight, I spread a garbage bag out on my kitchen counter and got to work. I combined fairly equal parts of the blue and purple glitter together in a bowl and mixed them.

Makin' a mess. Why didn't I keep a box to do this in? I mean, I KNEW I was going to do this project this weekend, and I went and dumped all my cardboard boxes in the garbage can outside anyway. What the hell was I thinking? It looks like the purple Teletubby barfed in my kitchen.

In working on the shoes, I wasn't overly slopping on the Mod-Podge because I wanted to maintain the black ribbon edge. I did, however, continue to go crazy with the glitter. I wanted very full coverage on the shoes. I did the front 3/4 of the shoes with the glue and glitter, and then let them dry somewhat. I needed to keep a place to hold the shoes while working on them.

I was also very careful to avoid tapping the shoes too much after the glitter was on. I figure the clear coat will help any loose stuff be secured to the shoes.

These were a $0.75 pair of shoes the last time I went to the thrift store. I decided I wanted to add some sparkle to these, and because of their price, if it didn't work out, then no big deal.

Wondering if I'm ever going to be able to clean up all the glitter, or will it become a seasoning for breakfast tomorrow.

A DIY-version of Christian Louboutin shoes, but with purple glitter outer heels instead of his trademark red heels?

I stuffed them with plastic bags to avoid overspraying the clear coat into the inside of the shoes.


I think these are going to be a lot of fun to wear. The ballet flats are actually more purple than blue, in real life. I think the camera flash is making them look more blue. I'm trying to decide if I want to add anything to the toes. There was a simple black cord bow on each shoe that I trimmed off before starting, because I hate bows. I don't know if I want to look for a funky set of buttons to glue on or just leave them plain
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9  Knock-Off Dolce and Gabbana "Miss Sicily" Crocheted Bag in Crochet: Completed Projects by AmyLynn98 on: June 16, 2013 03:21:27 PM
I saw this purse on Yahoo! Fashion: "Fashion That Makes Us Sad: The Worst of 2012." I know it looks like something that should be on "What Not To Crochet" but I really dig this design for a purse! It's a Dolce and Gabbana Miss Sicily Crocheted Bag that costs $2,895.


It was being compared to the blanket on Roseanne's couch.  Grin

I finally got around to finishing this project today! Smiley


Kind of a bad picture here, but it's hanging from it's handle.

Materials Needed
   3 colors of yarn: Color A: Solid, Color B: Variegated, Color C: Solid
         For my bag, I used:
        --Color A: 2 skeins of Trendsetter Yarns, Merino VIII in plum (color # 335)
        --Color B: 2 skeins of Bernat Mosaic in Psychedelic (color #44400)
        --Color C: 1 skein of SignatuR Knits in navy blue
   G sized crochet hook
   Yarn needle
   Scissors
   Tape measure
   Plastic canvas, in a color to match the yarn (I used black)
   Single purse handle (I had to buy a package of two: Everything Mary, wood handles)
   One 1" matching button
   A pair of matching onyx square rings (Everything Mary)
   1 package of bias tape, wide single fold, in a color that matches yarn color C.
   Matching cotton fabric and thread for the interior lining
   Cotton thread that matches the bias tape
   An iron

Directions
The front flap:
1.   Make 6 granny squares, using the join in the round method (http://knitting-crochet.wonderhowto.com/how-to/join-granny-squares-with-crochet-flat-brain-joining-233233/). Make each square in the following pattern: beginning ring and round 1 with color A, round 2 with color B, joining round 3 with color C. Each granny should measure about 2.75 square.
2.   The squares should be joined in 2 pieces: 4 squares across by 2 squares tall. One group will be the outside of the flap and the other group will be the inside of the flap. Each piece should measure around 5.5 tall x 11.5 wide
3.   Join the two flap pieces together by slip stitching them on three sides.

Front of the purse:
1.   Using yarn color C, chain 50 and turn.
2.   Change yarn to color B and start using the solid shell stitch pattern for the front of the purse:
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first st, *skp 2 sts, 5 dc into next st, skp 2 sts, 1 sc in next st; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in 1st, *skp 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, skp 2 dc, 5 dc in next st; rep from * ending with 3 dc in final sc, skp tch, turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, 1 sc in 1st, *skp 2 dc, 5 dc in next sc, skp 2dc, 1 sc in next dc; rep from * ending with 1 sc in top of tch,
Rep Rows 2 and 3 for pattern st. until the piece is as long as you want it to be. The purse front should be at least twice the height of the flap.
3.   Work the second to last row entirely in scs.
4.   For the last row, change the yarn to color C and work entirely in sc. Fasten off yarn when complete. This piece measured about 11.5 wide x 11.5 tall.

Bottom of the purse:
1.   Using color C, attach it to the bottom hem of the purse front with a slip stitch and work the entire row across the purse front in sc. This will become the bottom of the purse.
2.   Work a series of rows until the bottom panel is as deep as you want it. Mine measured 2 deep. Fasten off yarn when complete.
3.   A piece of plastic canvas will be used to make the bottom of the purse sturdy, so youll need to make a second bottom piece. Go back and attach yarn color C with a slip stitch in the same place as you started, and repeat the directions from #2 to create a separate flap.
4.   These two flaps will be stitched shut with the plastic canvas in between them.

Back of the purse:
Now that I actually have my purse back completed, I probably should have not used such a strongly colored variegated yarn for back here. It's hard to see the where the long DC's are on the back side.
1.   Using yarn color C, attach it with a slip stitch to the bottom flap closest to you (this is the outside flap), and work a series of sc across the entire piece. Chain 2 and turn.
2.   Work 2 rows each of dc, chaining 2 and turning at the end.
3.   Work the next row with 9 dcs and 1 long dc (http://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=56). Continue the rest of the row with 10 dcs and 1 long dc. Chain 2 at the end and turn.
4.   Work the next row with 4 dcs and 1 long dc. Continue the rest of the of the row with 10 dcs and 1 long dc. Chain 2 at the end and turn.
5.   Work 2 rows each of dc, chaining 2 and turning at each end.
6.   Work the next row with 9 dcs and 1 long dc. Continue the rest of the row with 10 dcs and 1 long dc. Chain 2 at the end and turn.
7.   Work the next row with 4 dcs and 1 long dc. Continue the rest of the of the row with 10 dcs and 1 long dc. Chain 2 at the end and turn.
8.   Repeat directions from #5.
9.   Repeat directions from #3.
10.   Repeat directions from #4.
11.   Repeat directions from #5.
12.   Continue working this same kind of pattern (alternating the rows of stitches) until the piece is 11" long.
13.   Work  1 SC in each stitch across, chain 2 and turn.
14.   Work 1 DC in each stitch across, chain 1 and turn.
15.   Work 1 SC in each stitch across and fasten off yarn with a slip stitch when finished. These last two rows will make the back piece slightly larger than the front piece, but you'll need that little bit of difference in size later on when you attach the flap.

Sides of the purse:
1.   Using Color A, attach it with a slip stitch to the narrow end of the bottom of the purse but leave a length of several inches to be used later. Like the back of the purse, the sides are attached to the purse while they are being made. Chain 8 and turn.
2.   Work 2 SC in the first stitch and continue working 1 SC in each of the remaining stitches. Attach the second row to the bottom with a slip stitch and 1 chain.
3.   Work 1 SC in each stitch up the length of the chain. Work 2 SC in the last stitch and 1 chain, then turn.
4.   Work 2 SC  in the first stitch and continue working 1 SC in each of the remaining stitches. Attach to the bottom with a slip stitch and 1 chain.
5.   Continue with directions from #2 and then #3 until the length of the side is 11" long. You should be able to have four rows in the center at 11" long.
6.   For the second half of the length, work in reverse by working 2 SCtog in the same places you were increasing the chains. Fasten off the yarn with a slip stitch when completed, and leave a length of several inches to be used next.

Assembling the purse
1.   Turn the purse inside out. Using the long lengths you left from making the sides, sew the sides together with a series of slip stitches.
2.   Measure your fabric to the same dimensions of the purse pieces and sew the fabric together. When cutting the side pieces, you'll want to cut them with a slight teardrop shape, while the other pieces are squares or rectangles.
3.    You'll definitely want to make sure you press the fabric flat with an iron before sewing. Lay the fabric, front sides together (inside) and sew them together. If you want to add 1-2 pockets to the inside of the purse, add them to the front or back pieces before the interior is completely sewn up. Sew the pieces together the same way you whip stitched the crocheted pieces together: big sides to the bottom, and then the smaller sides to the bottom, and then the vertical seams from all the sides together. When pinning the vertical seams together for sewing,  start from the bottom and work your way to the top. Do not start at the top and pin down to the bottom. If you start from the bottom and work your way up, don't worry if the top hem is not completely straight. This will be fixed later.
4.   Because this is going to be your purse's lining, you may want to sew each edge twice. Flip the pieces over and sew them again on the other side. I used a zig zag stitch for my seams, but you can use any stitch you want. The stronger you make your seams now, the less likely they are to rip later on and you lose stuff in between the lining and purse.
5.   Do not sew the top hems together just yet. Fold over the top edges of the lining and give yourself a 1/4"-1/2" hem. Fold it in such a way that the backsides of the fabric are touching, and pin into place.
6.   Pin the bias tape over the top of your hem.
7.   Drop the lining into the purse and pin it into place, through the bias tape. Sew it into the purse, lining the bias tape up with the bottom of the last row of SC you worked (row 13 of the purse back piece). Here, I changed setting on  my sewing machine and used a standard hem stitch here. When finished, you might choose to iron that top edge one more time.
8.   Get the front flap of your purse and decide which is going to be your front. Lay the purse and flap together with the outsides touching, and slip stitch them together on the inside with yarn color C.
9.   Center the handle along that new seam you just created, on top of the purse, on the outside, With yarn color C, whip stitch the handle to the purse. I did 15-20 stitches on each side of the handle.
10.   The button is for aesthetic purposes only. Sew it to the front flap, centered on the bottom row. Use the yarn needle and yarn color C.
11.   Attach one half of the magnetic snap to the inside of the flap, opposite of the button. Close over the flap to see where, on the front of the purse, to see where the other half of the magnetic snap should go, and attach it.
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10  A Quilt From My Husband's Grandma in Quilting: Completed Projects by AmyLynn98 on: May 24, 2013 01:24:27 PM
My husband went for a trip back home to see his family recently, and was gone for 2 1/2 weeks. I don't have that much vacation time (gotta hang on to what I have, at least for now anyways) and I ended up having bronchitis while I was here at our home.

Among the things he brought back was this wonderful quilt from his grandma. Grandma is making sure that each family and each grandchild gets a quilt from her. She finished this one for us in March, in time for our 15th anniversary.



We've hung it on a curtain rod on the biggest piece of wall in our second bedroom. I know it's technically upside down here (look at the orientation of the stars in the quilt), but on the backside is a separate patch that Shane wanted on the bottom so it would be easier to see. It's a patch with our picture on the back, with our names and Grandma's name on it. Shane wanted to be able to show it off. Although the more I look at it here, the more I think I might turn it around. I believe Grandma said this is a 9 Square quilt pattern.

The thing that really kills me is her response back when I sent her a thank you for this. I know a lot of work went into this quilt, because I've made one sewn quilt and I'll probably never make another. They are a lot of work. So I definitely had to thank her. She told me she was glad to hear from me about it and that we liked it because a lot of times, she doesn't hear back from people once they get a quilt from her!!!!

It measures 5'3"x5'9". Each one of the colored squares has a different style of quilting stitch on it. And that thin navy blue border around the quilt? Grandma actually sewed that on BY HAND with the tiniest stitches you've ever seen! Several of the baby quilts she's made are entirely handsewn.

Normally, I don't like to "save" thing for special use: candles, crystal, china, towels, etc. I like to use this stuff because what if there's just NEVER a special enough occasion?  However, in the case of this quilt, we are keeping it safe, while hanging it like this ensures that it's still out for show for all to see.
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